Rudder Cheeks Replacement
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ED SEITZ
On Aug 17, 2022, at 8:08 PM, kocarc via groups.io <kocarc@...> wrote:
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The cheeks were made from a slab of Osage Orange and now moving to locate and drill for the bolts.
Question, as I don't have the original cheeks - can someone provide the location of the tiller bolt hole by giving me the vertical and horizontal dimension to the bolt? The boat was built in 1982. I can approximate it from my photo pattern which unfortunately has the top foreshortened but thought better to check before drilling. Also fabricated a new motor mount to match but thicker. Thanks, Tom Hull 147 |
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billcartwright46
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On Thursday, August 4, 2022, 11:00 AM, Charlie Lewis <bookcharlielewis@...> wrote:
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billcartwright46
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On Thursday, August 4, 2022, 11:00 AM, Charlie Lewis <bookcharlielewis@...> wrote:
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Charlie Lewis
Does anyone know how heavy a Flicka rudder is? |
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Right, used to be called bow wood and they make a beautiful bow. The fabricator said he had widths to do the job (approx. 7.5") so we will see. Also found that an Osage is sourced from South America in larger diameters but is a bit softer. I believe he uses the real deal. I previously had white oak. Problem was that the acids make holding a finish a problem and the ss bolts reacted to something and stained the wood. The cheeks were always unsightly on my boat so willing to make the change. Not familiar with locust but know it is hard as I had to remove some trees recently! |
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Antonio Martinez
Osage is a fabulous wood but often difficult to get in large enough sizes. I have some billets just big enough for bows (archery...). White Oak or Locust would also work. a
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My rudder cheeks were missing so this is the process I am using for replacements and the selected wood. I visited a Flicka in NJ and to make a template, but the protruding bolts thwarted my efforts to get a clean outline. For a backup, I took several photos trying to get a good straight-on shot. These were downloaded on my PC and using Photoshop with the overall dimensions an image was made to scale. This was sent to our UPS store for a large bond paper copy which was spray glued and mounted to cheap dollar store cardboard and then cutout. The cutout was tested on the rudder and refined to get a good fit, particularly with the metal cap piece. I met with a respected boatwright in my area of Maryland who agreed to make the cheeks but chided me about not being able to match the grain. He recommended Osage Orange due to its strength and resistance to decay. He uses Osage for historic boat restorations and has a supply of logs he mills to size. Osage starts out yellow similar to the original oak cheeks but will turn brownish yellow over time. I will use a UV inhibiting clear finish to stall the process and report back. If it goes brown that is fine as it will mimic the teak. Strength and minimal maintenance are more important. The holes will be marked and drilled after the cheeks are final fitted. If anyone is in need of my pattern just let me know. I will email a copy and you can happily go from there. Technology was great in his case! Attached are pics of the template. Tom Hull 147 Tayan |
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