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traveller rail
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Hi Tim, I am very interested in installing a traveller rail unit like yours in the picture. Can you please send me the dimensions? Is the 1” stainless an Outside Diameter tubing, thick wall? Any tips? Many thanks, Carol Baker Nika #263
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Steve
Hi Tim. Will you send a pic of your pushpit? I'm needing one and value your experience. Thamks Steve Davis
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 07:14:20 PM CST, Carol Baker <caroljean848@...> wrote:
Hi Tim, I am very interested in installing a traveller rail unit like yours in the picture. Can you please send me the dimensions? Is the 1” stainless an Outside Diameter tubing, thick wall? Any tips? Many thanks, Carol Baker Nika #263
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Tim Stapleton
Steve, Here are a couple of pictures. I don’t have a side shot of the pushpit, but I included one of Moon Shadow at anchor and you should be able to zoom in on it. Tim  
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Tim Stapleton |
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Steve
I like it. I have some questions. 1, Where did you get the fittings? 2. How did you compensate for the angles where the bases are mounted? 3. Is it strong enough to support a 22 pound solar panel? 4. How did you bend the pipe? 5. do you think it feasible to build one out of galvanized or black pipe? Good job. Thanks for the help. Steve Davis
On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 03:34:58 PM CST, Tim Stapleton <svheron35@...> wrote:
Steve, Here are a couple of pictures. I don’t have a side shot of the pushpit, but I included one of Moon Shadow at anchor and you should be able to zoom in on it. Tim  
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Tim Stapleton |
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Tim Stapleton
Steve, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. I'm sure there are others on this site who know much more about metal fabrication than me. I try not to offer advice unless I really know what I'm talking about. So I don't often give it. But I'll tell you what I did and hopefully answer most of your questions. Initially I intended to have a pushpit custom made. But for reasons of cost and timing it didn't look like it was going to work, at least not this summer. I had just finished building a dodger and dodger frame from kits from Sailrite. Given the size of a dodger for a Flicka I had quite a bit of 1" stainless tubing left. The frame kit from Sailrite comes with 2 long pieces of 1" stainless tubing bent to resemble hockey sticks and an additional one with a slight bow or crown to it. I bought two more of the long hockey stick shaped pieces and had enough left over from building the dodger frame to pretty much construct the pushpit. The leftover section from the crowned piece worked nicely for the aft portion of the rail. I just needed to buy a little more stainless tubing, 4 stanchion bases, 4 T-connectors, and a couple of end caps. I got them through Sailrite but they are readily available at lots of other places. I often use Defender or Hamilton Marine for that sort of stuff. No bending on my part was involved. The rail is not one continuous piece, but made up of 3 pieces connected at splines with rivets. If you look carefully at the photo you can see the two connections on the aft section of the rail. Some careful measuring and cutting was involved to get just the shape I wanted. But the hardest part was getting access for the backing plates for the stanchion bases. And there wasn't really any need to compensate for the angles where the bases are mounted. I just factored that into the shape of the frame. So far I'm pretty happy with it. It seems very sturdy; no wiggle or wobble no matter how hard I tug, yank or pull. Granted not a scientific test but compared, for example, to the factory supplied bow pulpit, it's much sturdier. It would easily support the kind of solar panel you're considering. Hope that helps some. Tim
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Tim Stapleton |
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Steve
Yeah. That helps a lot> Thanks for your time and feed back> Happy sails to ya
On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 09:23:29 PM CST, Tim Stapleton <svheron35@...> wrote:
Steve, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. I'm sure there are others on this site who know much more about metal fabrication than me. I try not to offer advice unless I really know what I'm talking about. So I don't often give it. But I'll tell you what I did and hopefully answer most of your questions. Initially I intended to have a pushpit custom made. But for reasons of cost and timing it didn't look like it was going to work, at least not this summer. I had just finished building a dodger and dodger frame from kits from Sailrite. Given the size of a dodger for a Flicka I had quite a bit of 1" stainless tubing left. The frame kit from Sailrite comes with 2 long pieces of 1" stainless tubing bent to resemble hockey sticks and an additional one with a slight bow or crown to it. I bought two more of the long hockey stick shaped pieces and had enough left over from building the dodger frame to pretty much construct the pushpit. The leftover section from the crowned piece worked nicely for the aft portion of the rail. I just needed to buy a little more stainless tubing, 4 stanchion bases, 4 T-connectors, and a couple of end caps. I got them through Sailrite but they are readily available at lots of other places. I often use Defender or Hamilton Marine for that sort of stuff. No bending on my part was involved. The rail is not one continuous piece, but made up of 3 pieces connected at splines with rivets. If you look carefully at the photo you can see the two connections on the aft section of the rail. Some careful measuring and cutting was involved to get just the shape I wanted. But the hardest part was getting access for the backing plates for the stanchion bases. And there wasn't really any need to compensate for the angles where the bases are mounted. I just factored that into the shape of the frame. So far I'm pretty happy with it. It seems very sturdy; no wiggle or wobble no matter how hard I tug, yank or pull. Granted not a scientific test but compared, for example, to the factory supplied bow pulpit, it's much sturdier. It would easily support the kind of solar panel you're considering. Hope that helps some. Tim
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Tim Stapleton |
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Steve
Hey Tim. I"m getting very close to pulling the trigger on ordering the stuff from Sailrite to build a pushpit like yours but I have some more questions, if you don't mind be bothering you again. (1) Does the tubing go all the way thru the "T" connecters or is it have to be w separate pieces? (2) Why did you put the act stanchions in that place verses putting then at the very aft corners? (3) Do you thing you could build one without curved tubing... oust straight angles? Thanks again. steve davis
On Monday, January 18, 2021, 09:24:57 AM CST, Steve via groups.io <bulldogstevedavis@...> wrote:
Yeah. That helps a lot> Thanks for your time and feed back> Happy sails to ya
On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 09:23:29 PM CST, Tim Stapleton <svheron35@...> wrote:
Steve, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. I'm sure there are others on this site who know much more about metal fabrication than me. I try not to offer advice unless I really know what I'm talking about. So I don't often give it. But I'll tell you what I did and hopefully answer most of your questions. Initially I intended to have a pushpit custom made. But for reasons of cost and timing it didn't look like it was going to work, at least not this summer. I had just finished building a dodger and dodger frame from kits from Sailrite. Given the size of a dodger for a Flicka I had quite a bit of 1" stainless tubing left. The frame kit from Sailrite comes with 2 long pieces of 1" stainless tubing bent to resemble hockey sticks and an additional one with a slight bow or crown to it. I bought two more of the long hockey stick shaped pieces and had enough left over from building the dodger frame to pretty much construct the pushpit. The leftover section from the crowned piece worked nicely for the aft portion of the rail. I just needed to buy a little more stainless tubing, 4 stanchion bases, 4 T-connectors, and a couple of end caps. I got them through Sailrite but they are readily available at lots of other places. I often use Defender or Hamilton Marine for that sort of stuff. No bending on my part was involved. The rail is not one continuous piece, but made up of 3 pieces connected at splines with rivets. If you look carefully at the photo you can see the two connections on the aft section of the rail. Some careful measuring and cutting was involved to get just the shape I wanted. But the hardest part was getting access for the backing plates for the stanchion bases. And there wasn't really any need to compensate for the angles where the bases are mounted. I just factored that into the shape of the frame. So far I'm pretty happy with it. It seems very sturdy; no wiggle or wobble no matter how hard I tug, yank or pull. Granted not a scientific test but compared, for example, to the factory supplied bow pulpit, it's much sturdier. It would easily support the kind of solar panel you're considering. Hope that helps some. Tim
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Tim Stapleton |
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Tim Stapleton
No bother Steve. (1) Yes the tubing goes all the way through the T-connectors. What slides through the two aft T-connectors is the short crowned piece of the rail, not the bent pieces. While it might be possible to use a straight rather than crowned piece there, I suspect it would be very tight given the angles coming in from the two corners. To get the T-connectors to slide onto that crowned section can be a bit tricky. But if you grease them up it should work. (2) The positioning of the aft stanchion bases was in part a result of just looking at photos of other pushpits on Flickas. And it worked nicely with the length of the short run or extension of the hockey stick shaped pieces. You don't want to cut those ends as they taper down so as to slide inside 1" tubing. Also in putting the stanchion bases there they lined up well with the existing traveller rail. (3) I would be very hesitant to try to build it out of straight or 90 degree angles. My guess is that structurally it would be weaker and you would not be able to get the aft stanchion bases to line up properly with the forward ones. The boat is covered up for the winter now. Otherwise I'd go over there and take a few more pictures and some measurements. Tim
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Tim Stapleton |
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Steve
Great! Thanks Tim
On Monday, January 18, 2021, 04:28:18 PM CST, Tim Stapleton <svheron35@...> wrote:
No bother Steve. (1) Yes the tubing goes all the way through the T-connectors. What slides through the two aft T-connectors is the short crowned piece of the rail, not the bent pieces. While it might be possible to use a straight rather than crowned piece there, I suspect it would be very tight given the angles coming in from the two corners. To get the T-connectors to slide onto that crowned section can be a bit tricky. But if you grease them up it should work. (2) The positioning of the aft stanchion bases was in part a result of just looking at photos of other pushpits on Flickas. And it worked nicely with the length of the short run or extension of the hockey stick shaped pieces. You don't want to cut those ends as they taper down so as to slide inside 1" tubing. Also in putting the stanchion bases there they lined up well with the existing traveller rail. (3) I would be very hesitant to try to build it out of straight or 90 degree angles. My guess is that structurally it would be weaker and you would not be able to get the aft stanchion bases to line up properly with the forward ones. The boat is covered up for the winter now. Otherwise I'd go over there and take a few more pictures and some measurements. Tim
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Tim Stapleton |
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