Date
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#intro #intro
The original wiring in the boat looks like heavy duty flat 5 lead trailer wire, it is #12 gauge but it is not really trailer wire, it is very easy to separate the leads without using a knife unlike trailer wire but mine also utilized a trailer wire connector outside.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/5/20 1:04 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
"a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere"
yes, that's what I was curious about...
In the ideal world I'd love to find high quality bulkead connectors for both VHF and mast power. Previous owner had it setup with a male-female VHF connection and a standard trailer 12v connection. Neither is very gratifying :-/
a
Yesterday I picked up my new mast electric wire, 16/3 bilge pump wire, it's super heavy duty and round in shape. Fits perfectly through the 3/8" size water tight deck fitting that looks the same as the chrome one in the picture. I have a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere that will serve as the disconnect for the mast light wire and as far as the vhf goes, I will just use the standard union above deck.Because the rig will be dropped every year I am not worried about the above deck connections, they will be cleaned and greased frequently. I did not want exposed cables in the cabin or the associated sub-panel to make the nesacary connections.This discussion has convinced me to re-bed the mast tabernacle plate!MattSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/5/20 5:20 AM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introMatt,Can you tell us what type of connector is on the right in photo - looks like a threaded bulkhead power or VHF connector.I have not decided how to make the connection or what type of glands to use. Thinking I'll wait till mast is back up so I can mock up some ideas.s/v Miracle#165 1980no depression in mineSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introYour comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.as/v MiracleOn Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Antonio Martinez
"a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere"
yes, that's what I was curious about...
In the ideal world I'd love to find high quality bulkead connectors for both VHF and mast power. Previous owner had it setup with a male-female VHF connection and a standard trailer 12v connection. Neither is very gratifying :-/
a
Yesterday I picked up my new mast electric wire, 16/3 bilge pump wire, it's super heavy duty and round in shape. Fits perfectly through the 3/8" size water tight deck fitting that looks the same as the chrome one in the picture. I have a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere that will serve as the disconnect for the mast light wire and as far as the vhf goes, I will just use the standard union above deck.Because the rig will be dropped every year I am not worried about the above deck connections, they will be cleaned and greased frequently. I did not want exposed cables in the cabin or the associated sub-panel to make the nesacary connections.This discussion has convinced me to re-bed the mast tabernacle plate!MattSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/5/20 5:20 AM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introMatt,Can you tell us what type of connector is on the right in photo - looks like a threaded bulkhead power or VHF connector.I have not decided how to make the connection or what type of glands to use. Thinking I'll wait till mast is back up so I can mock up some ideas.s/v Miracle#165 1980no depression in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introYour comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.as/v MiracleOn Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Yesterday I picked up my new mast electric wire, 16/3 bilge pump wire, it's super heavy duty and round in shape. Fits perfectly through the 3/8" size water tight deck fitting that looks the same as the chrome one in the picture. I have a Male to female 3 wire water tight plug that I found somewhere that will serve as the disconnect for the mast light wire and as far as the vhf goes, I will just use the standard union above deck.
Because the rig will be dropped every year I am not worried about the above deck connections, they will be cleaned and greased frequently. I did not want exposed cables in the cabin or the associated sub-panel to make the nesacary connections.
This discussion has convinced me to re-bed the mast tabernacle plate!
Matt
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/5/20 5:20 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Matt,
Can you tell us what type of connector is on the right in photo - looks like a threaded bulkhead power or VHF connector.
I have not decided how to make the connection or what type of glands to use. Thinking I'll wait till mast is back up so I can mock up some ideas.
s/v Miracle
#165 1980
no depression in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introYour comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.as/v MiracleOn Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
I had a Contest 31 that had a very similar mast step to the Flicka's and the core was wet and rotted, I sliced the step off the cabin top using a multi tool lifting it off like a mad scientist who needs a brain...I then replaced the wood with a few blocks of marine ply smooshed into thickened epoxy and smooshed the scull cap back on. Worked fine but in the case of that boat there was no cabin top scoring, all solid glass beneath the step so pretty simple repair
Matt
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "William Huesmann via groups.io" <Livnaboard@...>
Date: 5/4/20 11:38 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Bill Huesmann
S/V MORNING STAR (Dana 139)
Gulf Shores, AL
“Much as I love sailing, I'm not all that interested in going off sailing 'round the world --- tho there's those who certainly wish I would." <W. Huesmann>
On May 4, 2020, at 22:05, Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
So measuring with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole does make more sense. It takes the variation due to how people rake the mast out of it. Measuring it that way I get 61 1/2 inches. I'm not sure why mine is less than the others, especially given the added inch or so of the hinge, but it's another data point.
MLL
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Jim roberts via groups.io <onemauijim@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 2:26 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro66” on Sea Mouse, psc#5,Cockpit sole non-opening.
On May 3, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Jim Hooker <jahooker@...> wrote:
On ours, with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole there is 64” under the boom. It may ride an inch or so higher with the sail up.
Jim Hookersv Niamh, #278Detroit
On May 3, 2020, at 8:20 AM, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:
When Koremikre (#275) came to me, she had no dodger. She also had no sea hood, crucial for both dodger and solar panels. The original Pacific Seacraft is no more of course, but there is a reiteration in North Carolina. They have some of the original molds, including one for Flicka sea hoods. They whacked me $650, but it looks like it belongs there. As far as the dodger height, you can measure the height of the gooseneck and assume level. That being said, the cut of the main can vary, so the boom may be slightly up or down. My boom has an outhaul led to a cleat near the mast; I repurposed it into a topping lift, pretty important. Good luck.
Gabriel
On May 3, 2020, at 7:35 AM, svheron35@... wrote:
I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
GABRIEL WARREN-- SCULPTOR
720 King's Factory RdCharlestownRhode Island USA 02813401.364.0087
7984 Rt. 337Antigonish Nova ScotiaB2G 2L1 Canada902.863.5822
Caper is 1978 formerly known as Shamrock
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Morris London <morris_london@...>
Date: 5/4/20 11:01 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Very interesting indeed. Maybe it is the compressive forces. What year is your boat Matt?
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
no depression
in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an
occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Antonio Martinez
Matt,
Can you tell us what type of connector is on the right in photo - looks like a threaded bulkhead power or VHF connector.
I have not decided how to make the connection or what type of glands to use. Thinking I'll wait till mast is back up so I can mock up some ideas.
s/v Miracle
#165 1980
no depression in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introYour comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.as/v MiracleOn Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Antonio Martinez
When I removed the mast step, I fully expected to find damage. I through drilled where the screws had been located, intending to reinstall with 1/4" machine bolts instead. The sawdust came out 'clean' and probing with a dental tool showed solid wood as far as I can tell. It 'taps' solid as well. But the concavity was at least 1/8-3/16" as measured by placing a straight-edge across the pulpit.
s/v Miracle
#165 1980
On Mon, May 4, 2020 at 11:01 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
Very interesting indeed. Maybe it is the compressive forces. What year is your boat Matt?
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #introno depression in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
William Huesmann
For what it's worth, from the peanut gallery: on my Dana… 1989… Hull number 139… I had a compression (depression) at the mast step. My mast step looks nearly identical to the Flicka pictures and boats I have seen. On top of that step, I have a stainless steel plate with attachment points for blocks. Atop that, I have a hinged mast step to which the mast itself is attached with a single cross bolt. Over time… the construction of this mast step and the penetrations through it gave rise to some depression. The reason for this was that the molded step was fiberglass, approximately 3/4 of an inch thick, followed by a piece of roughly 1/2 inch marine plywood, followed by the inside fiberglass shell from the cabin. The wood itself, over the course of 35 years, had a saturated and compressed. We drilled a 4 inch hole in the top, gouged out all the bad wood, filled it with an epoxy slurry of chopped strand fibers (kitty hair) the consistency of mayonnaise, and then allowed it four days to cure before replacing the step and hinge. I gained nearly 3/8 of an inch once we had ground the repair flush with the original step. And now, it is solid as a rock. That's just for what it's worth. Not complicated...just time consuming. The repair itself was quite simple.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bill Huesmann
S/V MORNING STAR (Dana 139)
Gulf Shores, AL
“Much as I love sailing, I'm not all that interested in going off sailing 'round the world --- tho there's those who certainly wish I would." <W. Huesmann>
On May 4, 2020, at 22:05, Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
So measuring with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole does make more sense. It takes the variation due to how people rake the mast out of it. Measuring it that way I get 61 1/2 inches. I'm not sure why mine is less than the others, especially given the added inch or so of the hinge, but it's another data point.
MLL
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Jim roberts via groups.io <onemauijim@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 2:26 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro66” on Sea Mouse, psc#5,Cockpit sole non-opening.
On May 3, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Jim Hooker <jahooker@...> wrote:
On ours, with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole there is 64” under the boom. It may ride an inch or so higher with the sail up.
Jim Hookersv Niamh, #278Detroit
On May 3, 2020, at 8:20 AM, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:
When Koremikre (#275) came to me, she had no dodger. She also had no sea hood, crucial for both dodger and solar panels. The original Pacific Seacraft is no more of course, but there is a reiteration in North Carolina. They have some of the original molds, including one for Flicka sea hoods. They whacked me $650, but it looks like it belongs there. As far as the dodger height, you can measure the height of the gooseneck and assume level. That being said, the cut of the main can vary, so the boom may be slightly up or down. My boom has an outhaul led to a cleat near the mast; I repurposed it into a topping lift, pretty important. Good luck.
Gabriel
On May 3, 2020, at 7:35 AM, svheron35@... wrote:
I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
GABRIEL WARREN-- SCULPTOR
720 King's Factory RdCharlestownRhode Island USA 02813401.364.0087
7984 Rt. 337Antigonish Nova ScotiaB2G 2L1 Canada902.863.5822
--
Bill Huesmann
MORNING STAR (Dana 139)
Gulf Shores, AL
Morris London
So measuring with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole does make more sense. It takes the variation due to how people rake the mast out of it. Measuring it that way I get 61
1/2 inches. I'm not sure why mine is less than the others, especially given the added inch or so of the hinge, but it's another data point.
MLL
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Jim roberts via groups.io <onemauijim@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 2:26 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 2:26 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
66” on Sea Mouse, psc#5,
Cockpit sole non-opening.
On May 3, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Jim Hooker <jahooker@...> wrote:
On ours, with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole there is 64” under the boom. It may ride an inch or so higher with the sail up.
Jim Hookersv Niamh, #278Detroit
On May 3, 2020, at 8:20 AM, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:
When Koremikre (#275) came to me, she had no dodger. She also had no sea hood, crucial for both dodger and solar panels. The original Pacific Seacraft is no more of course, but there is a reiteration in North Carolina. They have some of the original molds, including one for Flicka sea hoods. They whacked me $650, but it looks like it belongs there. As far as the dodger height, you can measure the height of the gooseneck and assume level. That being said, the cut of the main can vary, so the boom may be slightly up or down. My boom has an outhaul led to a cleat near the mast; I repurposed it into a topping lift, pretty important. Good luck.
Gabriel
On May 3, 2020, at 7:35 AM, svheron35@... wrote:
I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
GABRIEL WARREN-- SCULPTOR
720 King's Factory RdCharlestownRhode Island USA 02813401.364.0087
7984 Rt. 337Antigonish Nova ScotiaB2G 2L1 Canada902.863.5822
Morris London
Very interesting indeed. Maybe it is the compressive forces. What year is your boat Matt?
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram@...>
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an
occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Matt
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: "Matt Corwin via groups.io" <bongogram@...>
Date: 5/4/20 5:21 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
no depression in mine
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 5/3/20 2:49 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] #intro
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Jim roberts
66” on Sea Mouse, psc#5,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Cockpit sole non-opening.
On May 3, 2020, at 1:17 PM, Jim Hooker <jahooker@...> wrote:
On ours, with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole there is 64” under the boom. It may ride an inch or so higher with the sail up.Jim Hookersv Niamh, #278DetroitOn May 3, 2020, at 8:20 AM, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:When Koremikre (#275) came to me, she had no dodger. She also had no sea hood, crucial for both dodger and solar panels. The original Pacific Seacraft is no more of course, but there is a reiteration in North Carolina. They have some of the original molds, including one for Flicka sea hoods. They whacked me $650, but it looks like it belongs there. As far as the dodger height, you can measure the height of the gooseneck and assume level. That being said, the cut of the main can vary, so the boom may be slightly up or down. My boom has an outhaul led to a cleat near the mast; I repurposed it into a topping lift, pretty important. Good luck.GabrielOn May 3, 2020, at 7:35 AM, svheron35@... wrote:I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
GABRIEL WARREN-- SCULPTOR720 King's Factory RdCharlestownRhode Island USA 02813401.364.00877984 Rt. 337Antigonish Nova ScotiaB2G 2L1 Canada902.863.5822
Priscilla Wheatley
Congratulations on your Flicka! You are following in our wake, so to speak. I bought Cadenza, #387, from Mike Mitchell in Christmas Cove in 1990. I tied up there for a few years but moved up to the Gamage shipyard through my last season sailing, 1999.
A few years ago a friend was headed for Boothbay and asked me to join her. We are both into horses now, but she knew about part of my yachting life. That's the only time I saw Boothbay from the land. It's much better on the water. I watched the July 4 fireworks a few times. They are a lot of fun at anchor. I was there one year aboard Ladona (as she is known now) for Schooner Days and a thunderstorm came through. The lightening stuck the shortest mast in the harbor on a J-24. My friend and I headed for South Bristol. The shipyard is quite different. We went down to Christmas Cove and I had forgotten how stunningly beautiful it is. All of the Coveside buildings are gone except the restaurant and bar. I have an aerial view postcard Mike had made up with Cadenza right up front. I have something hanging from the ceiling in the bar but I don't have a clue what it is. Walter Cronkite came in whenever he stopped at the Cove on a cruise. The one distinct memory I have is sitting at a table with one of the Coveside guys and Walter was standing right next to me waiting for someone. II also remember one really quiet day late in the season when there were 3 or 4 boats on the river when Washburn and Doughty launched a new boat about the size of a tug. We all got our airhorns out and saluted them which they enjoyed, a nice surprise.
Have you done much sailing in the area? The Damariscotta River is the prettiest in Maine. I spent many a night in Seal Cove which had an osprey nest on top of an old wooden electric tower. There are enough gunkholes in the area that even if it was a lousy few days weather-wise it didn't take that long to anchor a neat little spot. There was some unwritten wisdom about never going west of the Kennebec River. Too many stinkpots and jet skis, nothing to see. The sailing was much better heading down east. It's easy to cut through the gut and there was a hump in the middle of the bridge so I had to pay attention to the tide. I usually headed for John's Bay and the Pemaquid light. and into Muscongus bay.
The Pacific Seacraft Rendezvous was at Christmas Cove. I don't remember what year it started but the last one I did was 1999. It was a pretty consistent group that got together every year. The race had 2 classes: Flickas and everybody else. We started just outside the harbor, headed out to a buoy off Linekin, then headed up the river. The finish was near the ledges and then we headed to anchor at the Darling Marine Center for the lobster bake. Those were the days!!!
I read all sorts of posts here and have to adjust to the fact that Flicka's have been around for a long time now. I'm glad to see so many people undertaking projects to bring them to a glorious new era under sail. Now that I have located Cadenza in the Great Lakes I'm happy she looks so good. I'm not entirely comfortable yet with the idea she is in fresh water with no tides.
A few years ago a friend was headed for Boothbay and asked me to join her. We are both into horses now, but she knew about part of my yachting life. That's the only time I saw Boothbay from the land. It's much better on the water. I watched the July 4 fireworks a few times. They are a lot of fun at anchor. I was there one year aboard Ladona (as she is known now) for Schooner Days and a thunderstorm came through. The lightening stuck the shortest mast in the harbor on a J-24. My friend and I headed for South Bristol. The shipyard is quite different. We went down to Christmas Cove and I had forgotten how stunningly beautiful it is. All of the Coveside buildings are gone except the restaurant and bar. I have an aerial view postcard Mike had made up with Cadenza right up front. I have something hanging from the ceiling in the bar but I don't have a clue what it is. Walter Cronkite came in whenever he stopped at the Cove on a cruise. The one distinct memory I have is sitting at a table with one of the Coveside guys and Walter was standing right next to me waiting for someone. II also remember one really quiet day late in the season when there were 3 or 4 boats on the river when Washburn and Doughty launched a new boat about the size of a tug. We all got our airhorns out and saluted them which they enjoyed, a nice surprise.
Have you done much sailing in the area? The Damariscotta River is the prettiest in Maine. I spent many a night in Seal Cove which had an osprey nest on top of an old wooden electric tower. There are enough gunkholes in the area that even if it was a lousy few days weather-wise it didn't take that long to anchor a neat little spot. There was some unwritten wisdom about never going west of the Kennebec River. Too many stinkpots and jet skis, nothing to see. The sailing was much better heading down east. It's easy to cut through the gut and there was a hump in the middle of the bridge so I had to pay attention to the tide. I usually headed for John's Bay and the Pemaquid light. and into Muscongus bay.
The Pacific Seacraft Rendezvous was at Christmas Cove. I don't remember what year it started but the last one I did was 1999. It was a pretty consistent group that got together every year. The race had 2 classes: Flickas and everybody else. We started just outside the harbor, headed out to a buoy off Linekin, then headed up the river. The finish was near the ledges and then we headed to anchor at the Darling Marine Center for the lobster bake. Those were the days!!!
I read all sorts of posts here and have to adjust to the fact that Flicka's have been around for a long time now. I'm glad to see so many people undertaking projects to bring them to a glorious new era under sail. Now that I have located Cadenza in the Great Lakes I'm happy she looks so good. I'm not entirely comfortable yet with the idea she is in fresh water with no tides.
Jim Hooker
On ours, with the boom parallel to the cockpit sole there is 64” under the boom. It may ride an inch or so higher with the sail up.
Jim Hooker
sv Niamh, #278
Detroit
On May 3, 2020, at 8:20 AM, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:
When Koremikre (#275) came to me, she had no dodger. She also had no sea hood, crucial for both dodger and solar panels. The original Pacific Seacraft is no more of course, but there is a reiteration in North Carolina. They have some of the original molds, including one for Flicka sea hoods. They whacked me $650, but it looks like it belongs there. As far as the dodger height, you can measure the height of the gooseneck and assume level. That being said, the cut of the main can vary, so the boom may be slightly up or down. My boom has an outhaul led to a cleat near the mast; I repurposed it into a topping lift, pretty important. Good luck.GabrielOn May 3, 2020, at 7:35 AM, svheron35@... wrote:I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
GABRIEL WARREN-- SCULPTOR720 King's Factory RdCharlestownRhode Island USA 02813401.364.00877984 Rt. 337Antigonish Nova ScotiaB2G 2L1 Canada902.863.5822
Tom Davison <sail2018@...>
The next issue of Flicka Friends (May 15) will have an article about the replacement of the
wooden mast support arch on a Flicka 20 and reinforcement of the tabernacle.
It would be interesting to develop some measurements for the Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20
(using the forward hatch removed) to see the height of the tabernacle from a specific location
on the cabin floor or on the liner somewhere.
Given the age of the Flicka 20 class and the installation of the tabernacle, this measurement
might be the first step.
The screws into the deck trough the tabernacle and the mast wiring holes may well be the
reason for the water intrusion.
The photos of the repair in the article should be helpful.
How much deflection is too much? Good question.
On May 3, 2020, at 2:48 PM, Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...> wrote:Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.as/v MiracleOn Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 11/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.Hope this helps.Morris London"Golden Crown"From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Antonio Martinez
Your comment about the depression in the tabernacle is VERY interesting and if true (it was the mold), encouraging as I assumed it was 40 years of compressive forces on ours. That concavity and the failing sealant on 4 mast step screws, was causing an occasional water intrusion issue. I just recently sanded the gelcoat off in that area, and added cloth/resin to get it level.
a
s/v Miracle
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 1:58 PM Morris London <morris_london@...> wrote:
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55 3/8 inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86 7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be 1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #introI have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another 4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Morris London
I was down at the boat this morning, and fortunately read the email before going. I took some measurements on my boat, #242 a 1983 model. The following conditions apply, so your mileage may vary:
- I have added a hinge under the mast tabernacle, and this raised the entire rig. The hinge itself is about 1 1/8 inch in height. However, there is a depression in the deck in the area of the tabernacle, and the hinge spans over this depression, so the effect is probably closer to 1 1/4 or 1 3/8 inch. I have noted this same depression in photos of other boats, so I think it's in the mold, not just my boat. If you don't have a hinge, your measurements should be less by 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 inch.
- My mast is raked at the 1 3/4 degrees (~10" aft at the mast head) specified on the drawings from '82 that I got with the boat. If your rake is different the angle will change the height a bit. An inch additional rake at the masthead would imply about 3/8 inch less clearance at the boom end.
- I adjusted the boom to be perpendicular to the mast (not necessarily level to the cabin or cockpit soles).
- My boat's deck mold does not have the integral engine hatch. At the time my and your boats were built what they did for inboard engine installations was cut a large hole in the sole over the engine and install another fiberglass assembly with the engine hatch in it on top of the sole. The assembly was fastened to the sole with numerous bolts all the way around the cockpit just inboard of the drainage grooves. If you have an inboard engine you have the additional assembly. This will add some height to the cockpit sole and thus reduce the measurement to the boom, but I don't know by how much. If you have the assembly you should be able to remove the engine access hatch and possibly see the cut edge of the deck mold sole. You could then measure the difference due to the added assembly. If you have an outboard, as I do, your deck will be the same as mine.
- I have Kenyan spars, and they match the drawings. The most important measurement for comparison to measurements you take of your spars is that the CL of the boom and its gooseneck fitting on the mast are 17 inches from the bottom the mast.
- My boat has the teak and holly sole in the cabin. This adds an additional 1/4" to the cabin sole and applies to a second measurement I give you below.
With all that in mind, I measured the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom, at the aft end of the spar extrusion (not the endcap with the sheaves in it), to be 55
3/8
inches. This does not include the bale for the main sheet tackle. The point is just forward of the outboard engine fuel tank locker, if you have one of those.
Because you're looking at a dodger, a useful measurement might also be further forward in the area of the hatch. I measured from the cabin sole to the bottom of the boom just aft of the outhaul
cleat (~45 inches aft of the mast), which was pretty close to the main hatch in its fully open location, to be 86
7/8 inches. If you don't have the teak and holly sole (most do but there are plenty out there without) your measurement would be
1/4" greater (after correcting for the hinge!). Speaking of outhaul cleat, don't forget it protrudes below the boom another 1 inch, and depending on your dodger design may be over the dodger when the boom is in over
the boat.
That's a whole lot of verbiage to deliver a couple measurements (only one that you actually asked for), and the precision of the measurements is ridiculously tight. But, fitting a dodger or bimini
to such a small boat can get down to measurements of less than an inch.
Unfortunately the sails are not on the boat right now. If they had been I'd have taken measurements with the main raised, since that's what will determine the actual location of the boom underway.
Hope this helps.
Morris London
"Golden Crown"
From: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io> on behalf of svheron35@... <svheron35@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2020 7:35 AM
To: Flicka20@groups.io <Flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] #intro
I have recently bought hull #162, and will be sailing out of East Boothbay, Maine. My first job is to replace the bowsprit which had some soft spots. The old one is off and I am building a new one of douglas fir. I am sure I will have lots of questions
and need for advice along the way. I will be adding and upgrading some electronics and hope, come fall, to sail her down to the Chesapeake and maybe points south. Right now I would also like to build a dodger frame for her. The mast may be down for another
4 to 6 weeks which makes taking measurements for its height doable but difficult. That is why I was hoping someone might help me out by providing a measurement of the height from the cockpit sole to the bottom of the boom. It will take me a while to build
the frame and then make the dodger and would like to get started pretty soon. Still chilly here in Maine and a good time to be doing some sewing. Thanks for any help.
Tim S.
Tim S.
Ernie Vitucci
On 5/3/20, Tom Davison <sail2018@...> wrote:
The Bingham Plans may be different form the Pacific Seacraft Flicka. Bill
Luther of Pacific Seacraft did the interior and deck.
The cabin sole is only a few inches above the waterline based on viewing the
water in the cockpit drains at the dock.On May 3, 2020, at 11:30 AM, stoked Forsure via groups.io
<hdmechanic2003@...> wrote:
I some plans of the original BB kit flicka. 24 sheets.
Douglas HammondOn May 3, 2020, at 6:16 AM, Antonio Martinez
<middleriverstudio@...> wrote:
This is just brochure image imported into CAD and scaled. Most of the
measurements are pretty close. But I don't know where cockpit sole is.
Does anyone have a section drawing?
<image.png>
a
s/v Miracle
#165 1980
On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 8:41 AM <svheron35@...
<mailto:svheron35@...>> wrote:
Thanks Gabriel. Measuring from the gooseneck was my fall back position.
But I was also hoping to get a measurement from the cockpit sole in hopes
that the 2 numbers lined up.
Tim
Tom Davison <sail2018@...>
The Bingham Plans may be different form the Pacific Seacraft Flicka. Bill Luther of Pacific Seacraft did the interior and deck.
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The cabin sole is only a few inches above the waterline based on viewing the water in the cockpit drains at the dock.
On May 3, 2020, at 11:30 AM, stoked Forsure via groups.io <hdmechanic2003@...> wrote:I some plans of the original BB kit flicka. 24 sheets.Douglas HammondOn May 3, 2020, at 6:16 AM, Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...> wrote:This is just brochure image imported into CAD and scaled. Most of the measurements are pretty close. But I don't know where cockpit sole is. Does anyone have a section drawing?<image.png>as/v Miracle#165 1980On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 8:41 AM <svheron35@...> wrote:Thanks Gabriel. Measuring from the gooseneck was my fall back position. But I was also hoping to get a measurement from the cockpit sole in hopes that the 2 numbers lined up.
Tim