Date   

Re: BOWSPRIT

Nick D
 

You’d be surprised if you’re careful you can get a polished finished if you hold sharp scraper at 90 degrees. Not tearing at it as with a house scraper. The scraper will only take the hard wood.  I keep the toe rail natural with a light bleach a few times per year with no harm done. 


Teak toersil

Steve
 






I ran into an unlimited channel marker at night

Steve
 







Re: BOWSPRIT

Steve
 

Thanks for all the help.  Matt, do you build the wings fir the bowsprit?  Is so I'd like to order one from ya. I damaged mine.


On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 8:47 AM, Matt Corwin via groups.io
<bongogram@...> wrote:



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS@...>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

Did you mean oily woods? I assume spellchecker sabotaged your sentence but in any case scraping is not always an option and never an option for attaining the final smoothness required for many finishes. 
Teak is very fibrous and can get pretty torn up with scraping.
The most important thing is maintaining whatever finish is on the wood so as to avoid the always destructive refinishing process.
Every time the teak goes grey, the pithy grains are worn and washed away and the wood is left with the rough ridges of the tough grains above the softer pithy grain. This condition is desirable for natural non-skid of a deck but IMHO too rough for brightwork. 
Sooo, now when the wood gets sanded back to smooth for varnish, a lot of wood thickness is lost and that is why we see so many older boats  with the bungs falling out of the holes.
Got to keep up with the #%@$$ varnish!



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Nick D <sailvela@...>
Date: 1/16/22 10:10 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Teak and other woods should be scraped rather than sanded. 


Re: BOWSPRIT

Nick D
 

Teak and other woods should be scraped rather than sanded. 


Re: BOWSPRIT

Priscilla Wheatley
 
Edited

Pacific Seacraft had someone from the factory at the annual Rendezvous in southern Maine.  It was Robin Bradshaw most years, and he was a terrific resource for Flicka owners.  He was available by phone anytime and had records on each boat by hull number.  

What I remember about the toe rails is they were not intended to be removed.  When the new deck mold was built the hull-to-deck joint was changed.  The teak toe rails are pretty much a hand-made installation on each boat.  A Flicka took up a bay in the construction area where PSC could build a Crealock which probably had a profit margin.  That is one of reasons PSC dropped production of the Flicka.  She took up a lot of space.  She has enough materials to build a much larger boat.  In some areas there isn't enough room for 2 people to work at the same time.  

The teak toe rails are basically a custom installation on each boat.  Cadenza is a 1989 hull (387) and I never did anything to the toe rails other than carefully sand and oil them each year.  Teak has soft and hard grains.  When you sand you have to use flat sandpaper to do the entire width.  If you don't pay attention, or don't know what you are doing, you will destroy the soft grain and the hard grain remains as is.  You wind up with an up-and-down pattern rather than flat all the way across.


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

It took the shop and the covid "shelter in place" of the first three months with nothing mandatory to do so I thought "what the hell, might as well tackle those annoying cap rails" .
Each side is made from four, 5-6ft long 2X6 boards scarred and screwed from inboard and outboard.
One real reason I had to do it is that where they are scribed to the cockpit coming, there is that long seam that was letting water stand and soak through the hull to deck bolts and probably the teak securing screws as well.i am still debating the Merritt of installing jib tracks on the teak caps or having them more inboard on the side decks.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 1/15/22 7:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Very nice ;-)

<sigh>  What I wouldn't give to have our boat in a shop!!

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 9:30 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Antonio! I laminated three layers to get the radius, I made a mold from several pieces of partical board that were scribed from the transom arch.
It was not fun.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 1/14/22 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

I like the idea of taller toerails.  Did you find any places where it was an issue?  IIRC it's a little tight under 'sprit platforms.
Also, how did you handle the transom (complex curve).  Even with 3/4-1" stock seems it could be a bear to cajole it in place.  Steambox?

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 6:56 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
My cap rails were still  servicabe but they were ugly from new and were one of the big upgrades to the boat that I wanted to have from day 1.
Pacific Seacraft did a terrible job making them in the first place, they are uneven on the inside where it would not be that difficult to run a trim router to make them follow the little bulwark edge and the outside where the rabbit is does not even cover the seam in the hull. I just replaced them on principal.
The real tough work wasting the set of patterns ( templates) for cutting the teak. I used full 1 1/2" teak for the job but mahogany could be substituted for a real savings in cost.
I also added a rubrail to the outside of the cap covering the hull to deck joint with a bronze guard strip and the end result is a correctly trimmed hull with an extra measure of safety because of the 2" high bullwark.
The scarf joints are tricky but what isn't in boatwork?
I can make the rough parts for any owner who wants to tackle the project.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Rod Green <treetopflier156@...>
Date: 1/14/22 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Antonio Martinez
 

Very nice ;-)

<sigh>  What I wouldn't give to have our boat in a shop!!


On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 9:30 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Antonio! I laminated three layers to get the radius, I made a mold from several pieces of partical board that were scribed from the transom arch.
It was not fun.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 1/14/22 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

I like the idea of taller toerails.  Did you find any places where it was an issue?  IIRC it's a little tight under 'sprit platforms.
Also, how did you handle the transom (complex curve).  Even with 3/4-1" stock seems it could be a bear to cajole it in place.  Steambox?

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 6:56 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
My cap rails were still  servicabe but they were ugly from new and were one of the big upgrades to the boat that I wanted to have from day 1.
Pacific Seacraft did a terrible job making them in the first place, they are uneven on the inside where it would not be that difficult to run a trim router to make them follow the little bulwark edge and the outside where the rabbit is does not even cover the seam in the hull. I just replaced them on principal.
The real tough work wasting the set of patterns ( templates) for cutting the teak. I used full 1 1/2" teak for the job but mahogany could be substituted for a real savings in cost.
I also added a rubrail to the outside of the cap covering the hull to deck joint with a bronze guard strip and the end result is a correctly trimmed hull with an extra measure of safety because of the 2" high bullwark.
The scarf joints are tricky but what isn't in boatwork?
I can make the rough parts for any owner who wants to tackle the project.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Rod Green <treetopflier156@...>
Date: 1/14/22 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

Hi Antonio! I laminated three layers to get the radius, I made a mold from several pieces of partical board that were scribed from the transom arch.
It was not fun.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Antonio Martinez <middleriverstudio@...>
Date: 1/14/22 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

I like the idea of taller toerails.  Did you find any places where it was an issue?  IIRC it's a little tight under 'sprit platforms.
Also, how did you handle the transom (complex curve).  Even with 3/4-1" stock seems it could be a bear to cajole it in place.  Steambox?

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 6:56 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
My cap rails were still  servicabe but they were ugly from new and were one of the big upgrades to the boat that I wanted to have from day 1.
Pacific Seacraft did a terrible job making them in the first place, they are uneven on the inside where it would not be that difficult to run a trim router to make them follow the little bulwark edge and the outside where the rabbit is does not even cover the seam in the hull. I just replaced them on principal.
The real tough work wasting the set of patterns ( templates) for cutting the teak. I used full 1 1/2" teak for the job but mahogany could be substituted for a real savings in cost.
I also added a rubrail to the outside of the cap covering the hull to deck joint with a bronze guard strip and the end result is a correctly trimmed hull with an extra measure of safety because of the 2" high bullwark.
The scarf joints are tricky but what isn't in boatwork?
I can make the rough parts for any owner who wants to tackle the project.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Rod Green <treetopflier156@...>
Date: 1/14/22 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Antonio Martinez
 

I like the idea of taller toerails.  Did you find any places where it was an issue?  IIRC it's a little tight under 'sprit platforms.
Also, how did you handle the transom (complex curve).  Even with 3/4-1" stock seems it could be a bear to cajole it in place.  Steambox?


On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 6:56 PM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
My cap rails were still  servicabe but they were ugly from new and were one of the big upgrades to the boat that I wanted to have from day 1.
Pacific Seacraft did a terrible job making them in the first place, they are uneven on the inside where it would not be that difficult to run a trim router to make them follow the little bulwark edge and the outside where the rabbit is does not even cover the seam in the hull. I just replaced them on principal.
The real tough work wasting the set of patterns ( templates) for cutting the teak. I used full 1 1/2" teak for the job but mahogany could be substituted for a real savings in cost.
I also added a rubrail to the outside of the cap covering the hull to deck joint with a bronze guard strip and the end result is a correctly trimmed hull with an extra measure of safety because of the 2" high bullwark.
The scarf joints are tricky but what isn't in boatwork?
I can make the rough parts for any owner who wants to tackle the project.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Rod Green <treetopflier156@...>
Date: 1/14/22 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

My cap rails were still  servicabe but they were ugly from new and were one of the big upgrades to the boat that I wanted to have from day 1.
Pacific Seacraft did a terrible job making them in the first place, they are uneven on the inside where it would not be that difficult to run a trim router to make them follow the little bulwark edge and the outside where the rabbit is does not even cover the seam in the hull. I just replaced them on principal.
The real tough work wasting the set of patterns ( templates) for cutting the teak. I used full 1 1/2" teak for the job but mahogany could be substituted for a real savings in cost.
I also added a rubrail to the outside of the cap covering the hull to deck joint with a bronze guard strip and the end result is a correctly trimmed hull with an extra measure of safety because of the 2" high bullwark.
The scarf joints are tricky but what isn't in boatwork?
I can make the rough parts for any owner who wants to tackle the project.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Rod Green <treetopflier156@...>
Date: 1/14/22 1:05 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Rod Green
 

Steve,

I'm in the process of replacing my teak cap rails as well. Like Matt said, they are nearly impossible to get off without destroying them, especially if they are old like mine. The rabbeted outside edge prevents you from getting anything under it from the outside. I was able to use a flat pry bar and an oscillating multitool on the inside edge to pry/cut them off. However, like Matt said, you have to be carefull, because it is easy to damage the gelcoat underneath. I was also going to attempt to make new teak cap rails myself. However, after pricing teak and having to purchase additional tools etc. for the job, which I did not have, I was getting close to the price PSC quoted me to have new cap rails made. Plus the risk of messing up, could cost you hundreds of dollars in teak, so I opted to have PSC make new cap rails for me. If you're interested, they made a mistake when cutting the cap rails for me, by cutting them too narrow. They would still work, but would not cover all of the top edge. If that doesn't matter to you, they said they would give someone a good deal on them. Lemme know if you are interested and I will give you contact information.

Good luck,

Rod

On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 10:04 AM Matt Corwin via groups.io <bongogram=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

The teak toerail, if it is like mine was, is bedded in something like 5200 polyurethane adhesive caulk. It is impossible to remove without distraction either to the hull or the teak rail.bif you try to pry it up enough to get a wire or hacksaw blade or whatever under it the gellcoat will tear off.
I had to set a circular saw to the depth of the adhesive bedding and crosscut every 5" or so and then use a sharp wood chisel to split into splinters. Small pieces like 1/2"X5" could be payed off without damaging the boat.
If your boat is like mine or the couple other Flicka's with teak caps that I have seen from that era, then the teak cap is/was rabbeted so that there is a lip that hides the hull to deck seam, this lip prevents passing a wire or thin saw blade under and even if that were possible I doubt that the 5200 would give up the ghost.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS@...>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Mike
 

Steve
I removed and replaced one section of my toe rail.  It was very difficult to remove after removing the screws that fastened it to the deck.  Whatever bedding compound Pacific seacraft used to attach the rail worked very well. It was very hard to pry off and came off in pieces.

Mike  
M Marcella hull185

On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 1:16 PM Steve via groups.io <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS=YAHOO.COM@groups.io> wrote:
A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS@...>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: BOWSPRIT

Matt Corwin
 

I remade the teak toe rails using 1 1/2" teak, I still have the patterns



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Steve via groups.io" <BULLDOGSTEVEDAVIS@...>
Date: 1/13/22 4:16 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka 20 Group <flicka20@groups.io>
Subject: [Flicka20] BOWSPRIT

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


BOWSPRIT

Steve
 

A few months ago I saw someone here made a beautiful bowsprit "wing" but  I  lost the contact and pic.  I'd like to hire that person to build be one for me  do to i busted one wing off.  If anyone can help id really appreciate it.  

Also, my toe rail is teak.  Anyone taken off teak toe rail before? 

Thanks
Steve


Re: Staysail Shroud Diagram

Matt Corwin
 

Gaff rig pictured has shorter mast, longer boom and center backstay is replaced with running backstays or whatever they are called when they are part of the standing rig.
With the tall mast, the inner forestay should probably be supported with running backs if the intention is to employ this in heavy weather.



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "Robert Collier via groups.io" <rhcmkc1@...>
Date: 1/7/22 5:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Flicka20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Flicka20] Staysail Shroud Diagram

  A pretty god shot illustrating the stay sail and jib attachmets---Bob

On Wednesday, November 17, 2021, 09:36:56 AM PST, gabriel warren <gabriel@...> wrote:


Hi Elliot— I don’t have pics available (whatever I have is 800 miles away, in NS) but I can try this: I set a T-ball fitting on the mast, about where indicated on the sail plans. I started with an overlength stay with the T-ball fitting swaged on. I ran the first season with a  wind-on (Norseman) eye on the bottom so I could determine length, then back in the US had a proper swage end put on over the winter. The sail plan has the (flying) stays’l to the forward of the three bowsprit bolts; I have my stay to the after one so the jib / gennie can tack through. A piece of 1/8” x 1” ss flat bent into an angle with two holes is all you need to anchor the stay to the bowsprit bolt. I fitted a second, smaller T-ball fitting on the mast just below the one for the stay for the stays'l halyard, and this also serves as a lift for the spinnaker pole when desired. 

Aside from the advantages of the stays’l and the rig redundancy aspects of the stay, it is very helpful when masting, and as a handhold when the foredeck is lively.

Good luck.

On Nov 17, 2021, at 10:56 AM, SailorElliot <elliotaron123@...> wrote:

Hello,

Does anyone have a diagram or plans of a Flicka 20 with a staysail shroud (or inner forestay)?

Thanks,
Elliot
--
1985 Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20



Re: Reefing

Daniel Roeder
 

I just found the manual regarding the Wallas. Price in Europe is about 900 to 1000 Euro (just for your information)


Am 08.01.2022 um 09:56 schrieb Daniel Roeder:

I also have the Wallas 1300 installed on my Flicka. It is located at the forward bulkward backbord (side of the V-berth). The tank is installed in the galley there where originally the icebox was located. The icebox has carved out and the tank is placed as low as possible. The exhaust is installed straight up and a through deck chimney is used (delivered from Wallas as a separate part). It works perfectly - the technik is robust and easy. Low fuel and energy consumption.

<20190711_204614.jpg>

in this photo you see the small original stainless steel chimney close to the bb handrail

<5 binnen 1.jpg>
you only will see the warm air outlet behind the bulkward on bb


Am 07.01.2022 um 19:32 schrieb gabriel warren:

Charlie— Could you be a bit more specific about the Wallas installation? Heater location, exhaust location, hardware, etc? Thanks.

On Jan 7, 2022, at 11:15 AM, Charlie Lewis <bookcharlielewis@...> wrote:

My Flicka had Lee helm when I bought her.  I thought it was the rake on my mast but it turned out to be the heavy 150lb Yamaha 9.9 and a propane tank off the stern.  It also made steering a little hard on the tiller.    So I got a sailpro 6hp. #55lbs and shifted weight.   And it was better but she didn't point well    do after adding a staysail now the boat is a rocket.   She sails up wind like a race boat  shes fast and handles wind like a champ.   So far. 25kts is the strongest I've been in    in this boat..      and it was very stable and sporty w staysail and 1 reef.     I added a windpilot light for long trips and it's quite sweet.    Also I added a Wallas 1300 kerosene forced air heater.    It's terrific!   




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