Let me another another of what I believe is a bug, though minor.  After the latest update, I noticed that the code sent with the internal keyed sounded bad, as if the weighting was off.  I changed the CW WEIGHT to 2.7 where it sounded more more normal to my ear.
--
Harry  K7GQ

Hi Brian
I would first call your radio dealer, this looks like someone halted a software download or lost power, if this radio was unpacked at their site as demo,,,
Of course we could upload a full software in Groupio files but to work your SD card must be formatted from radio to create Ft101 file with Sub Capture MemList Menu to upload.
I do not know if each new format was dedicated to a specific serial number
next to call Yaesu service what they will recommend you

Good luck

va2am, Rejean

Yes, both front and rear jacks. 

Just wondering - does this occurs with both CW ports (front & rear)?  I've had trouble with the rear CW port on my radio not accepting keying from an external keyed (Winkeyer USB) which also defies logic.

Harry  K7GQ

Nobody has these problems?
Why Yaesu will not repair my rig, but only say "wait a moment".

Tada/JA7KPI

i would put a ferrite 31 mix on the keyer cable.  wrap the cable thru a few times close to radio 

I have an FTdx101D.  I've had it for about 5 weeks.  Recently my wife, N0LG has gotten into CW.  We have a Bencher, a Vibrokeyer and a Kent paddles.  Everything has been fine until one evening the dit key would stop working.  The dahs would go fine, but nothing happened when pressing the dit key.  This happens with any paddles and it is at totally random times.  If we unplug the paddles and replug them in, it usually fixes the problem for a while, sometimes for many minutes, sometimes for only a few words before the dits go away.
I installed the latest firmware, but no change.  I did a hard reset, which is not normally required with a firmware update, but same deal, every so often the dits go away.  Like I said, it can happen with any of the three paddle sets we have.  In fact we just got a new Begali key with the same results.
This afternoon I hooked the rig and amp (VL1000) into my DL5K dummy load and ran it full power, 1000 watts sending whatever came to mind for about an hour.  Not one hitch.
Oh, one more thing, this dit loss can happen even when just practicing, not actually transmitting over the air at all.  Also, it can happen using either the front jack or the rear jack.
I use a Palstar HF-Auto and we always run close to 1.1 to 1 on our Alpha 4510 meter and our LP100A.  The wattmeter in the rig always show 1 to 1, as does the meter in the amp.
I've thought I had this problem fixed a dozen times, and out of the blue it comes back again.
Any thoughts or recommendations? 
Joe N0RF and Linda N0LG

Hi,

 

Tuner and RS232 are 2 different things.

What relationship do you see between these 2 elements?

If you are using an external ATU, you connect it to the socket (referenced in 22 in your manual, page 16) And you select in the TUNER menu the output that you will use with this external ATU.

The RS-232 socket is for receiving information from a PC connection on the RS-232 port, and you select in the menu 232C RATE the connection speed.

 

Best 73

Jean-Gabriel

 

 

 

 

-

good evening,
Can you tell me if in the operation setting / menu you can select tuner or 232 C as the documentation says.
Or did I not understand?
Thank you

Double check you dont have code key shorted, I would suggest just inplug everything so there is not any possible cross wires , plug power and antenna back in, turn it back on and see if the fault goes away. Also sometimes when using computer with some radios there is a fault created where a transmit command loop is created upon turning back on, in that case simply unplug power cable, then plug it back in and then turn it on. Hope one of these helps 

Ken, I had the exact same problem in the first week I owned the 101MP.  I was my cover on my Begali paddle that was pushing against one of the paddles.  When you power the radio on, if that happens, or for example you have the mic button pushed continuously on, then you will get the blinking TX indication although its not really putting out any power.  Common occurrence it seems.  I found the description in a small section of the manual somewhere talking about it....luckily it is an error reporting mechnanism to the user and doesn't damage anything. Glad you solved the problem.

Reading the manual is "a silly comment?" Then why bother to have manuals?

The way to "not spend hours thumbing through a manual" is to at least learn how to use the table of contents. As an example, the original (superior IMHO) operation of the Noise Reduction was proclaimed to be a fault because it didn't work how most people expected. I was curious about this and 5 minutes with the manual explained that the NR control was not a NR level but a stepping through 15 different NR algorythims