Date   
Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

nikos_zou@...
 

Hi Denny
What I have done until now is to configure the linuxcnc in order to take the pwm signal at a pin of the parallel port. I have also found a schematic diagram of the emco5cnc spindle motor pcb. My question is how i can put the speed "information" (pwm signal) to the pcb. I have to remove the R71 resistance and replace it with a 7808 (motorola voltage regulator).....and then??? what is the pwm/potmeter converter??can you give me an example??

thank you very much for your time and assistance.
 Nikolas
 

Re: compact 5: advance motor "humming"

guyinagt
 

If the suspect transistor has readable markings on it, post them on here and we'll try and suggest a suitable substitute. Most transistors in devices like yours can be readily substituted by a variety of others. 

Re: compact 5: advance motor "humming"

bastiensphoto@...
 

i have tested the resistance of every transistor when the board is out of the machine, nothing stand out ...
i have tested the voltage of every transistor, and one stand out ... the fifth from the right (when the board is in place and you are facing the back of the lathe)

it seem like someone already worked on the transistor, the solder are are not clean, i re-solder in place all those transistor ... nothing different ...
i will try to replace the transistor that gave me bad reading, but i dont seem to be able to find it online ...
anyone knows a store where i can get some wired transistor for cheap?

Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

m.wg@...
 

Hi Jos
A bit off topic but nice pictures and you did a great job with the E type.

Rgds, Marcus

Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

Croonen
 

hire a photo of the pcb board


2014-03-31 20:22 GMT+02:00 Benny Croonen <plasmaboog@...>:

Hello Jos

I didn't see you last week on the club meeting in Heerlen.

Somewhere on the site stays a schematic from the spindelboard  you have to remove resistor R71 valeu 27k I have replace it treu 7808 and this I have done for the small pcb board that I have build and have running in 4 Emco compact5 CNC and 2 Emco F1 milling machine., the resistor have to be remove the rezone is that it limit the current, and that then the most pwm/potmeter converters not are going to work.

Benny
Belguim


2014-03-31 18:30 GMT+02:00 Jos Raven <jos.raven@...>:

 

Hello Benny,

That is what I did, a relay.

I did not use a 7808 but I drive the motor with a Homann design DC-03 pcb.
This works OK, but the motor needs time to settle after starting and also if the RPM's change.

It is not ideal, but it works.

http://mraven.com/Emco%205%20cnc%20lathe.html

Picture is here, middle row, last one.

Jos
Holland



Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

Croonen
 

Hello Jos

I didn't see you last week on the club meeting in Heerlen.

Somewhere on the site stays a schematic from the spindelboard  you have to remove resistor R71 valeu 27k I have replace it treu 7808 and this I have done for the small pcb board that I have build and have running in 4 Emco compact5 CNC and 2 Emco F1 milling machine., the resistor have to be remove the rezone is that it limit the current, and that then the most pwm/potmeter converters not are going to work.

Benny
Belguim


2014-03-31 18:30 GMT+02:00 Jos Raven <jos.raven@...>:

 

Hello Benny,

That is what I did, a relay.

I did not use a 7808 but I drive the motor with a Homann design DC-03 pcb.
This works OK, but the motor needs time to settle after starting and also if the RPM's change.

It is not ideal, but it works.

http://mraven.com/Emco%205%20cnc%20lathe.html

Picture is here, middle row, last one.

Jos
Holland


Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

Jos Raven
 

Hello Benny,

That is what I did, a relay.

I did not use a 7808 but I drive the motor with a Homann design DC-03 pcb.
This works OK, but the motor needs time to settle after starting and also if the RPM's change.

It is not ideal, but it works.

http://mraven.com/Emco%205%20cnc%20lathe.html

Picture is here, middle row, last one.

Jos
Holland

Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

nikos_zou@...
 

Thank you for your immediate answer.
I intent to use linuxcnc in order to control a compact5 cnc lathe.
i would appreciate it if you could explain me which exactly is the resistor which should be replaced.
Do i need the C6 control board as described above?
Can i take the pwm signal from the linuxcnc as descrided here??
http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/examples/spindle.html

Sorry for my "stupid" questions but i am an initial student.  

Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

Croonen
 

it is not a problem to use the orgainal spindel motor whit the PCB board but you have to make a modification on the board the current is limmit treu a resistor, so in the last machines I place in place from the resistor a 7808 and I use my one pcb board to control the speed whit PWM but you still have to put a relais to switch on and off the motor.

benny

Re: VFD for Emco Compact 5

nikos_zou@...
 

hello, i have the same problem with you. Did you manage to find any solution to this?

Thank you in advance,
Nikolas

Re: SKidoo 670HO

John Dickinson
 

If you are going to have water against the job then don't use 7000 series aluminium. It is the highest strength but its very suceptible to water corrosion. Its used on aircraft and thats why when you see one in build or the inside of a military one they are a sickly yellow-green which is a corrosion passivator layer. (Used to be chromate but elf n safety etc).

regards
 
John Dickinson -




From: "Armilite@..."
To: Emco_cnc_users@...
Sent: Tuesday, 25 March 2014, 3:06
Subject: [Emco_cnc_users] SKidoo 670HO

 
Hello:
 
I forgot to mention the material is 6061, or 7075, Aluminum. I maybe able to simplify the top design, still thinking on that. The depth of the Head Shell can be made taller/deeper if needed. It don't have to be pretty with a nice radius, it just makes a water jacket inside. The UnionBay Insert index's on the head bolt holes so it can't turn. The Insert lip, rests on a lip of the head shell, so the top could be maybe just a Cone/Angle shape which could be turned on a manul/cnc lathe. One way, or another, it would be a multi step process, unless made on a 5 axis.
 
Thanks for your input
Rich Gillen
=====================================================================
 

2c

Re: Skidoo 670HO

Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:38 am (PDT) . Posted by:

"John Wild" wild_kow

Not that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way, there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM – electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good luck.

John

 


Re: SKidoo 670HO

wild_kow
 

Rich, I think I’d just go down to the hardware store and buy one off the shelf ;-))

I think you’ve set yourself a brain scratcher with that one. Challenging is one word that comes to mind!

Good luck,

John


On 25/03/2014 03:06, "Armilite@..." <Armilite@...> wrote:

 
 
 
   

Hello:
 
I forgot to mention the material is 6061, or 7075, Aluminum. I maybe able to simplify the top design, still thinking on that. The depth of the Head Shell can be made taller/deeper if needed. It don't have to be pretty with a nice radius, it just makes a water jacket inside. The UnionBay Insert index's on the head bolt holes so it can't turn. The Insert lip, rests on a lip of the head shell, so the top could be maybe just a Cone/Angle shape which could be turned on a manul/cnc lathe. One way, or another, it would be a multi step process, unless made on a 5 axis.
 
Thanks for your input
Rich Gillen
=====================================================================
 


2c  

Re: Skidoo 670HO <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Emco_cnc_users/conversations/topics/4459;_ylc=X3oDMTJyYTk5N3FmBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE3MDQxNTg4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNzIzOTI0MwRtc2dJZAM0NDU5BHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzOTU2Nzc0ODI->


 
Mon  Mar 24, 2014 3:38 am (PDT) . Posted by:

"John Wild" wild_kow <mailto:jwild@...?subject=Re%3A%20Skidoo%20670HO>

 
Not  that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be  the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original  machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be  turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes  – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the  chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be  cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular  bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or  the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves  the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time  consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way,  there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores  would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile  cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM –  electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the  average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give  an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as  required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there  will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good  luck.

John



   


SKidoo 670HO

Rich Gillen
 

Hello:
 
I forgot to mention the material is 6061, or 7075, Aluminum. I maybe able to simplify the top design, still thinking on that. The depth of the Head Shell can be made taller/deeper if needed. It don't have to be pretty with a nice radius, it just makes a water jacket inside. The UnionBay Insert index's on the head bolt holes so it can't turn. The Insert lip, rests on a lip of the head shell, so the top could be maybe just a Cone/Angle shape which could be turned on a manul/cnc lathe. One way, or another, it would be a multi step process, unless made on a 5 axis.
 
Thanks for your input
Rich Gillen
=====================================================================
 

2c

Re: Skidoo 670HO

Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:38 am (PDT) . Posted by:

"John Wild" wild_kow

Not that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way, there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM – electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good luck.

John

 

Skidoo 670HO

Rich Gillen
 

Hello:
 
I uploaded the 670HO Billet Head/Parts photo's, and a few others of Billet Parts/Motors to the photo's section under, Rich Gillen. The Bikeman Dual Plug Insert, top design is what I want on top, with the UnionBay Racing bottom (Blue Head). I have a 3D Cad file of the insert drawn up, a guy drew it up for me, somewhere on one of my computers here. I haven't learned this 3D stuff good enough yet, to do a good 3D model yet, still working with 2D, or to change an existing model to fit my needs. The Skidoo/Rotax 521/536/537(72mm) Bore, 580/582/583/617(76mm) Bore, and the 670/670HO(78mm) Bore, Head Bolt pattern is based on a 6 bolt, 100mm BC(Bolt Circle). 100mm = 3.937008". A Skidoo/Rotax 440/470 6 Bolt Pattern is based on a 94mm/3.700787" BC. The Head Shell OD is the same for all of them. Seadoo 580/587/650/657 use the same head 6 bolt pattern. A stock Seadoo 650/657 3D model is on www.grabcad.com free to download.
 
Bolt Circle Calc
 
I have a Grizzly 12" x 37" manual lathe now, and a Grizzly G1006/08 large manual bench mill. I need a way to cut the different CC chambers on the inserts, and the outside contour.
 
I was figuring, I could maybe cut the OD, and Bottom Face on my manul lathe, and then machine the different combustion chambers on a small cnc lathe, and then do the holes on my mill. But the rest I would need a CNC mill 3/4/5 axis I guess, unless I can simplfiy the top design.
 
Having them Investment Cast is an option, then machining them. I want to make both a Dual Angle Plug, and a Straight Up Single Plug.
 
Thanks
Rich Gillen
 
==================================================================================
 

2b

Re: Skidoo 670HO

Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:46 am (PDT) . Posted by:

mustgofast2002

Hi Rich

I can't open the pictures, can you post in the Photo section some jpg type files ?


Rgds
 

Re: Skidoo 670HO [6 Attachments]

wild_kow
 

John,

I did think about suggesting set of rifflers but that’s a bit time consuming ;-)

The last Euro lottery prize would have made it possible to build a special workshop and buy a 5-axis machining centre with enough change left over to order a Costa coffee and a home delivery pizza while you wrote the program and watched the swarf fly...

Best wishes

John

:))


On 24/03/2014 10:50, "John Dickinson" <isereone@...> wrote:

THose parts are likely to be made on a 5 axis machining centre, for example have a look at the DMG web-site  http://www.moriseiki.co.uk/  however thats not home workshop stuff!
 
John Dickinson  -



  
 
 
 

 
From: John Wild <jwild@...>
 To: "Emco_cnc_users@..." <Emco_cnc_users@...>
 Sent: Monday, 24 March 2014, 10:39
 Subject: Re: [Emco_cnc_users] Skidoo 670HO
 

 

 
 
 
   
Not that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way, there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM – electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good luck.

John


On 24/03/2014 08:44, "Armilite@..." <Armilite@...> wrote:

Well, don't know what happened to the rest of my previous post, but has anyone here ever made any Billet Snowmobile Head Inserts?

I was wondering what kind of machine, it would take to make a dual angle plug insert similar to this one below?
(photo)

 
I want the upper part to look like the one above, and the bottom to look like this one on the bottom.
(photo's)

 
 
 

 

 
 
 
Rich
 
 
=============================================================================
 


2  

Snowmobile Head Insert <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Emco_cnc_users/conversations/topics/4451;_ylc=X3oDMTJya2pwZ3NuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE3MDQxNTg4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNzIzOTI0MwRtc2dJZAM0NDUxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzOTU1ODkyMDc->


 
Sat  Mar 22, 2014 1:51 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

armilite <mailto:Armilite@...?subject=Re%3A%20Snowmobile%20Head%20Insert>

 
Hello:

Don't  have any cnc yet. Hobby guy, still all manual yet.



   


 
 
  

Re: Skidoo 670HO

John Dickinson
 

THose parts are likely to be made on a 5 axis machining centre, for example have a look at the DMG web-site  http://www.moriseiki.co.uk/  however thats not home workshop stuff!
 
John Dickinson -




From: John Wild
To: "Emco_cnc_users@..."
Sent: Monday, 24 March 2014, 10:39
Subject: Re: [Emco_cnc_users] Skidoo 670HO

 
Not that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way, there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM – electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good luck.

John


On 24/03/2014 08:44, "Armilite@..." <Armilite@...> wrote:

Well, don't know what happened to the rest of my previous post, but has anyone here ever made any Billet Snowmobile Head Inserts?

I was wondering what kind of machine, it would take to make a dual angle plug insert similar to this one below?
(photo)

 
I want the upper part to look like the one above, and the bottom to look like this one on the bottom.
(photo's)

 
 
 

 

 
 
 
Rich
 
 
=============================================================================
 


2  

Snowmobile Head Insert <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Emco_cnc_users/conversations/topics/4451;_ylc=X3oDMTJya2pwZ3NuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE3MDQxNTg4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNzIzOTI0MwRtc2dJZAM0NDUxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzOTU1ODkyMDc->


 
Sat  Mar 22, 2014 1:51 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

armilite <mailto:Armilite@...?subject=Re%3A%20Snowmobile%20Head%20Insert>

 
Hello:

Don't  have any cnc yet. Hobby guy, still all manual yet.




Re: Skidoo 670HO

wild_kow
 

Not that I’m knowledgeable in such things but a Compact 5 and F1 CNC would not be the machine of choice; certainly with the software available for the original machine ;-)

If machined from a solid billet, the bottom face would be turned on a lathe, put on a rotary table on a mill and drill the fixing holes – that’s the easy bit. If the centre hole is angled then it depends if the chamfer is also angled or square to the face...

The top face would be cut by fitting the piece to jig to align the fixing holes to the angular bores. Depending on the machining process, whether the bores are cut first or the profile makes little difference although usually the task which involves the least amount of work is carried out before one that is more time consuming/complex on the basis that if a c*** - up is made along the way, there is less time to get to the same point again ;-)

The two bores would be cut on an angled rotary table and the profile cut with a profile cutter and an interesting program code – it could also be cut with EDM – electro discharge milling/spark erosion. Neither machine would be found in the average garage workshop.

Alternatively, a lost wax casting would give an accurate profile which would then have surfaces and bores machined as required using conventional manual machines...

I am sure that there will be forum members who will have much better ideas ;-)

Good luck.

John


On 24/03/2014 08:44, "Armilite@..." <Armilite@...> wrote:

Well, don't know what happened to the rest of my previous post, but has anyone here ever made any Billet Snowmobile Head Inserts?

I was wondering what kind of machine, it would take to make a dual angle plug insert similar to this one below?
(photo)

 
I want the upper part to look like the one above, and the bottom to look like this one on the bottom.
(photo's)

 
 
 

 

 
 
 
Rich
 
 
=============================================================================
 


2  

Snowmobile Head Insert <https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Emco_cnc_users/conversations/topics/4451;_ylc=X3oDMTJya2pwZ3NuBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE3MDQxNTg4BGdycHNwSWQDMTcwNzIzOTI0MwRtc2dJZAM0NDUxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzEzOTU1ODkyMDc->


 
Sat  Mar 22, 2014 1:51 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

armilite <mailto:Armilite@...?subject=Re%3A%20Snowmobile%20Head%20Insert>

 
Hello:

Don't  have any cnc yet. Hobby guy, still all manual yet.


Re: Skidoo 670HO

m.wg@...
 

Hi Rich

I can't open the pictures, can you post in the Photo section some jpg type files ?

Rgds

Skidoo 670HO

Rich Gillen
 

Well, don't know what happened to the rest of my previous post, but has anyone here ever made any Billet Snowmobile Head Inserts?
 
I was wondering what kind of machine, it would take to make a dual angle plug insert similar to this one below?
(photo)
 
I want the upper part to look like the one above, and the bottom to look like this one on the bottom.
(photo's)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Rich
 
 
=============================================================================
 

2

Snowmobile Head Insert

Sat Mar 22, 2014 1:51 pm (PDT) . Posted by:

armilite

Hello:

Don't have any cnc yet. Hobby guy, still all manual yet.
 

Re: compact 5: advance motor "humming"

cncwannabe
 

Never mind my previous post.  Looking back I you have already answered the question.

Replacing all the transistors seems a bit extreme.  You could start by using a DMM in diode check mode and compare the readings between similar transistors.  A failed transistor should stand out.  

Perhaps Henk will elaborate on the implications of your measurements.  

Walt