Date   

Photo k3s_wallpaper.jpg uploaded #photo-notice

Elecraft-K3@groups.io Notification <noreply@...>
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the K3s Wallpaper album of the Elecraft-K3@groups.io group.

By: James F. Boehner, MD <jboehner01@...>


Re: K3/0 mini portability

Dennis Ashworth
 

Thanks for the comments/questions. Here are my responses.

1. The LiFePO4 battery was an afterthought. I found that my operating location was often dictated by where the power outlets were available. This was limiting, so I thought the addition of a battery to give me 2-3 hours of operating time on a charge might be useful, and let me operate on a deck, pool side, etc where power wasn’t readily available. The battery is made by Bioenno, model BLF-1206A, 6AH. I found this size a good trade off between operating time and weight. I recommend their charger. If not, be sure to research charging characteristics/requirements of LiFePO4 cells.

2. The case is an inexpensive tool case from Harbor Freight ... I think about $25. It’s fine to test the concept, but pretty flimsy. I had to buy some epoxy on one trip to repair several of the joints that separated on the case.

3. As for the items on the QRZ page view of the remote cabinet... the third shelve components (L to R) is a laptop drawer, Signalink, 25 w light bulb to source heat (controllable from the IP switch directly above). The white box contains a RemoteRig 1214 switch. The holes (only two visible) allow 600 CFM filtered air from the plenum below into the cabinet, that flows through the stainless steel equipment racks and exhausts above the amplifier. The cooling is controlled by a thermostat. This has worked well for 4 years, but I’m moving my remote station to another QTH and the cabinet is now surplus.

Thanks ... let me know if you have further questions, either on the K3/0 mini, or the equipment rack used for the remote station.

Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas

On Mar 19, 2021, at 11:37 AM, Barry Baines via groups.io <bbaines=mac.com@groups.io> wrote:

Dennis:


On Mar 19, 2021, at 11:23 AM, Dennis Ashworth <dennisashworth49@gmail.com> wrote:

I believe one of the limitations with the K3/0 remote setup is its lack of portability. If installed at home, the boxes and cables can be tucked away, but if you travel with the mini, RemoteRig boxes, cables, wall warts, etc, it becomes a real rats nest to transport and install. To address this, I installed everything in a brief case which can be easily taken on a plane and setup in a few minutes upon arrival at your destination. All the messy cables remain attached and tucked beneath the foam padding. Additionally, I installed a LiFePO4 battery and charger providing greater portability. FWIW, I posted a picture on my QRZ page (K7FL) if anyone is interested in the concept.
Thank you for sharing your photos. Some questions:

1. What size/capacity is the LiFePO4 battery?

2. At the remote size, what are items below the K3? I see a SignalLink, but don’t recognize what it is sitting on or what the items are next to them.

I use a Pelican Case for transporting my K3/0-Mini setup between locations but I don’t have it configured for operation. You’re approach looks very interesting!


Thanks,

Barry Baines, WD4ASW
Keller, TX




Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas, NV








Elecraft 80 Meter Net ... 01:00 utc Sunday Night/Mon Morning

Paul Van Dyke
 

We will do our weekly crap shoot and Try for 3.815 as I never know the mood or how the band is populated at that hour
Keep Smiling

Paul - KB9AVO
80 Meter Net Control


Re: KV5J's line of Digital Displays for Elecraft's W2, KXPA100, KPA500, and KPA1500

Keith KV5J
 

As a pair the are nice to have. 

Keith, KV5J


Re: K3/0 mini portability

Henk PA0C
 

That is exactly the reason I am happy with my K3/0.
There is plenty of space to mount everything inside the box. Also all connections are soldered inside, so no protruding connectors.

It took some time to figure out the schematic and make the needed K3/0 changes, but was worth the effort.
Just the removable WiFi antenna sticking out and 1 wall wart needed.
K3/0 mic and key input are used.

Schematics and photo's are available on request.

73 Henk
PA0C

-------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------
Van: Dennis Ashworth <dennisashworth49@...>
Datum: 19-03-2021 17:23 (GMT+01:00)
Aan: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Onderwerp: [Elecraft-K3] K3/0 mini portability

I believe one of the limitations with the K3/0 remote setup is its lack of portability. If installed at home, the boxes and cables can be tucked away, but if you travel with the mini, RemoteRig boxes, cables, wall warts, etc, it becomes a real rats nest to transport and install. To address this, I installed everything in a brief case which can be easily taken on a plane and setup in a few minutes upon arrival at your destination. All the messy cables remain attached and tucked beneath the foam padding. Additionally, I installed a LiFePO4 battery and charger providing greater portability. FWIW, I posted a picture on my QRZ page (K7FL) if anyone is interested in the concept.

Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas, NV





Re: K3/0 mini portability

Dean LaClair
 

Sell it to me... ;-)


On Fri, Mar 19, 2021, 12:23 Dennis Ashworth <dennisashworth49@...> wrote:
I believe one of the limitations with the K3/0 remote setup is its lack of portability. If installed at home, the boxes and cables can be tucked away, but if you travel with the mini, RemoteRig boxes, cables, wall warts, etc, it becomes a real rats nest to transport and install. To address this, I installed everything in a brief case which can be easily taken on a plane and setup in a few minutes upon arrival at your destination. All the messy cables remain attached and tucked beneath the foam padding. Additionally, I installed a LiFePO4 battery and charger providing greater portability. FWIW, I posted a picture on my QRZ page (K7FL) if anyone is interested in the concept.

Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas, NV





Re: K3/0 mini portability

Jim Brown
 

On 3/19/2021 11:36 AM, Barry Baines via groups.io wrote:
What size/capacity is the LiFePO4 battery?
As one who has done a lot with LiFePO4 batteries, the answer boils down to physical size, weight, and what you're willing to pay. This is a very good vendor for these batteries. Note that they come in all sizes.

https://www.bioennopower.com/collections/lifepo4-batteries-for-communication-equipment-ham-radio

73, Jim K9YC


Re: K3/0 mini portability

Barry Baines
 

Dennis:


On Mar 19, 2021, at 11:23 AM, Dennis Ashworth <dennisashworth49@gmail.com> wrote:

I believe one of the limitations with the K3/0 remote setup is its lack of portability. If installed at home, the boxes and cables can be tucked away, but if you travel with the mini, RemoteRig boxes, cables, wall warts, etc, it becomes a real rats nest to transport and install. To address this, I installed everything in a brief case which can be easily taken on a plane and setup in a few minutes upon arrival at your destination. All the messy cables remain attached and tucked beneath the foam padding. Additionally, I installed a LiFePO4 battery and charger providing greater portability. FWIW, I posted a picture on my QRZ page (K7FL) if anyone is interested in the concept.
Thank you for sharing your photos. Some questions:

1. What size/capacity is the LiFePO4 battery?

2. At the remote size, what are items below the K3? I see a SignalLink, but don’t recognize what it is sitting on or what the items are next to them.

I use a Pelican Case for transporting my K3/0-Mini setup between locations but I don’t have it configured for operation. You’re approach looks very interesting!


Thanks,

Barry Baines, WD4ASW
Keller, TX




Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas, NV




K3/0 mini portability

Dennis Ashworth
 

I believe one of the limitations with the K3/0 remote setup is its lack of portability. If installed at home, the boxes and cables can be tucked away, but if you travel with the mini, RemoteRig boxes, cables, wall warts, etc, it becomes a real rats nest to transport and install. To address this, I installed everything in a brief case which can be easily taken on a plane and setup in a few minutes upon arrival at your destination. All the messy cables remain attached and tucked beneath the foam padding. Additionally, I installed a LiFePO4 battery and charger providing greater portability. FWIW, I posted a picture on my QRZ page (K7FL) if anyone is interested in the concept.

Dennis, K7FL
Las Vegas, NV


Re: P3 issue

Clay Autery
 

It's an issue with the signal between the transceiver and the P3...

Check the cable connections at the radio and the P3.
Verify the cable is good.... continuity on center, continuity on shield, no continuity from center to shield on both ends (one end is enough; it a personal thing).
Check which port is connected at the P3...  switch ports and/or make sure the pass-through switch (??) forget actual name of switch is in right position.

If it is NONE of those things, then there might be something wrong internally.

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389
On 03/18/21 09:23, va3jmk@... wrote:

My P3 is not displaying the frequency at the top center. I have been playing with it but seam to find out why or how to display it.  It only shows 0.


Looking for a K3 or K3S

Jon Richardson
 

I am looking for a 100w K3 or K3S with ATU, preferrably in Europe (but NOT the UK) to finalise my shack line-up.

I have a fully stocked KX3 (with Roofing filter, ATU, internal battery charger and two new sets of batteries) in a custom set-up Pelican case to offer as part of a deal.

Please mail me with what you have to offer.

Jon SA0KJI


Re: P3 issue

Mike Flowers
 

Ensure that the RS232 connections on the back of the P3 are well-seated.  Reseat them a couple of times to help remove any corrosion that may have occurred.

 

- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, NCDXC Secretary

 

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io <Elecraft-K3@groups.io> On Behalf Of va3jmk@...
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 07:23
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: [Elecraft-K3] P3 issue

 

My P3 is not displaying the frequency at the top center. I have been playing with it but seam to find out why or how to display it.  It only shows 0.


P3 issue

va3jmk@...
 

My P3 is not displaying the frequency at the top center. I have been playing with it but seam to find out why or how to display it.  It only shows 0.


Re: RSA speed

Bob Hallock
 

Ned,
You need to call Elecraft and talk to Eric. Your wait time is ridiculous.
Bob K7TM

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 6:06 PM Ned Mountain WC4X <ned.mountain@...> wrote:
Now starting week #7.


Re: RSA speed

Ned Mountain WC4X
 

Now starting week #7.


K3 power problem with LPA FETs

Chet, N8RA
 

Others have asked so I took a little time today to consolidate my disorganized notes and will add it below.
73,
Chet, N8RA

Assembled below are the notes from my experience in finding and fixing a power out problem on my K3. Where possible, I tried to give credit to the authors, to all of which I am grateful.

TESTS FOR THE MOSFETS.

The 3-screw finger test from WA6VAB and others:
There are 3 MOSFETs of the LPA that are heat-sinked to the bottom of the radio by being connected to the bottom plate using phillips head screws. Check your manual for their location

Place the radio so it is raised up using the front bail and place your fingers on the 3 screw that are holding the 3 MOSFETs.

Key the PTT so the XTR is on. All 3 should get warm, Not HOT or Cold.
Hot = shorted, Cold = open, Warm = normal.


WE6R factory tech comments:
The 3-finger bottom cover on and going into full TX test is valid, just takes longer and a bit harder to tell what is happening.
You can do the 3-finger check with the bottom cover OFF, but DO NOT Transmit, just TAP xmit to turn the Bias ON. (and have the mode set to USB or LSB-ed). Stop the test after 10-15 seconds. Good devices will get hot fast.
(N8RA- Note that the MOSFETs have sticky pad attached to them and if the bottom cover has not been off for a while, it may take some gentle wiggling to get the bottom cover off.)

N8RA test using the front panel power supply current display:
If there is a KPA3 installed, configure it to NOT INST and cycle power so you do not have its current added. Tap DISP and turn the VFO-B knob to get to the current display. Turn transmitter power below 10w and put the transmitter in “test” mode with the mode button. Note the difference in current from receive to that when tapping the xmit button. The difference should be about 600 ma. If significantly less or more, then one of the MOSFETs in the low power amp (LPA) may be bad or not biased properly. Reset your KPA3 configuration back to NOR (normal).


ORDER THE RIGHT MOSFET

Only one of my MOSFETs was bad, but I replaced both output MOSFETs. With one failed, the other had been carrying the whole load to produce output so may have been over-worked, over-stressed and hurting.

To be sure of getting the right vintage of RD15HVF1 MOSFETs, last year I ordered them (and thermal insulators) from Elecraft. My order was shipped that same day and arrived via priority mail 2 days later. Great service.

RF Parts is also a source. It has been reported that the earlier MOSFET with -101 is the one to get for the K3.

DOING THE REPAIR

Obviously, the bottom cover must come off. The MOSFETs have sticky pads between them and the bottom cover, so it may take some gentle wiggling to free it.

MOSFET means USE CARE to prevent ESD damage. Use a soldering iron with a grounded tip. Wear an ESD strap, if you do not have one, keep your other wrist on a metal part of the K3 case.

Note the bending direction and bent lead distance of the MOSFETs to prep the new parts.
Take extra ESD care when handling these transistors by themselves.

Cut the leads of a bad part near the body and then unsolder each lead from its pcb hole.

Use a solder sucker or wick to open the pcb holes.

Mount the new MOSFET and reflow its 3 pcb holes.

Add the heat sink pads to the MOSFET tabs and put the bottom cover back on.


MOSFET BIAS ADJUST

From Elecraft Customer Support:

You'll need to follow this sequence for setting bias after the fix:

1. Remove the 100 watt amplifier (if installed) by disconnecting the fan panel and their 2 connector wires, and the 2 wires to the circuit breaker. Use care to not pull on the KPA3 too hard and thus let it fly off the connectors and cause damage to it or to the chassis. Use gentle but firm finger pressure, or pry carefully with a plastic tool (such as the K2 green plastic alignment tool), near the two PCB connectors. This will usually help the KPA3 start to move.

(N8RA: The Elecraft document “KPA3CONMDKT MOD Kit Manual” has a wonderful description of how to remove and reinstall the 100W amplifier to allow access to the LPA’s adjustment potentiometers.)

2. Locate small SMD pots R18, R19 and R24 near the center of the LPA board. Turn the pots to minimum. (White pots fully CW, Black pots fully CCW)

3. Turn the power knob down to ZERO.

4. Tap DISP, (display button), use VFO B to display the current drawn by the radio. For more accurate results, insert a DMM in the positive power supply lead that is set to a current range that can handle up to 2-3 amps.

5. Hold TEST (the right hand side of the MODE button). This puts the K3 in TEST mode with no RF drive.(but it will not light the red xmt led)

6. Tap XMIT. You will see a current of approx 1 to 2A (depending on options in radio) but the red TX LED will not come on. Adjust R18 to increase the reading by 0.2A IE 200ma

7. Adjust R19 to increase the current another 0.2A

8. Adjust R24 to increase the current another 0.2A

9. Tap XMIT to exit bias on condition. (Current should drop approx.600ma). NOTE: if you are just checking current and you do have the KPA3 installed, set it to NOT INST and cycle power so you do not have its current added, thus confusing your readings.

10. Set Power to 11.9W. Hold TEST again to cancel TEST mode so RF output is possible. The LCD shows TX NORM. (Reinstall the 100-watt amplifier.)


Summary and tips from Elecraft Super Tech WE6R:
We bias each device at 200ma increase, from fully off, which is Counter Clock Wise, CCW. (The total for all 3 is 600ma.)
NOTE there were a *FEW* of the older LPA boards that have 3 WHITE pots and they are REVERSED action, IE you start fully clockwise equals no current (vs CCW).
Only tap XMIT to turn on Bias (quiescent current), NOT a long press to full transmit.


WRAPPING UP

Check your power supply voltage on the front panel display. Many have reported that older K3’s seem to work better with this in the 14 volt range.

Connect to the Elecraft K3 utility and run the transmitter gain tests.

If all is well, save a copy of the K3’s configuration file.

Thank you everyone on the K3 forums for your shared advice and experiences.

-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon LaPoint <gordon.lapoint@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 9:03 AM
To: chetsubaccount@snet.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft contact- K3 power problem

Chet,
Thanks! Please send me the notes, I will look at the problem closer. I don't know if the problem is the low power amp or the 100 watt amp yet.
I should be able to fix it, I built a K2 from scratch and have repaired other radios.
Gordon - N1MGO

On 3/17/2021 8:55 AM, chetsubaccount@snet.net wrote:
Hi Gordon,

I had some power problems with my K3 a few months ago, and could not get any useful help by e-mailing support, but with the kindness of others on the Elecraft owners lists I was able to troubleshoot and repair it on my own. One of the power MOSFETs in the low power amp section had failed. I also believe the bias adjustments in that section had shifted, and it probably helped that the 100W amp had to be removed for that and then reseated into its connectors.

If you desire to go that route, I can send you my notes on the process.

73,
Chet, N8RA

-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-bounces@mailman.qth.net
<elecraft-bounces@mailman.qth.net> On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 3:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft contact

I have a problem with my K3, only 60-70 watts out, even after calibration on 5 and 50 watts. This is the first time I have had a problem with the K3, after years of good operation. I emailed support over a week ago and called them on the phone last week, still have not heard anything. What is the correct email for support??
Thanks,
Gordon - N1MGO K3 #5651


On 3/16/2021 15:33 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:
Lisa Jones retired 2+ years ago from Elecraft..
She and Madelyn Gomez (madelyn@elecraft.com) were a team Madelyn
Gomez ... madelyn@elecraft.com and her team can help you today..

BUT go thru Support or Tech support 1st !!
as they take the load off the team and it works so much faster

Paul Van Dyke - KB9AVO

On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 3:22 PM Bob G3PJT <bob@g3pjt.com> wrote:

David isnt this for you not me?

73 Bob

On 16/03/2021 15:27, W2xj wrote:
Context?????

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:59 AM, Bob G3PJT <bob@g3pjt.com> wrote:


David

Try Lisa Jones, her email is sales@elecraft.com and the other one
is
parts@elecraft.com
And the mod page which I found useful is

https://la3za.blogspot.com/search/label/K2

73 Bob
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Re: 8.215 trap and C10 on KAT3

Tom Schaefer NY4I
 

That was documented in the other posts I found. The trap was found to be overkill and caused some issues. It is not there on the newer KAT3A boards.

Here is one thread that addresses it.

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-KAT3-High-SWR-Issue-Solved-td7648428.html

Tom NY4I


Re: 8.215 trap and C10 on KAT3

Mel Marcus
 

What was the reason for the original circuitry?

Mel
NE9A


From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io <Elecraft-K3@groups.io> on behalf of Tom Schaefer NY4I via groups.io <thomasmschaefer@...>
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2021 9:04 AM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io <Elecraft-K3@groups.io>
Subject: [Elecraft-K3] 8.215 trap and C10 on KAT3
 
I have found many references to removing this trap so I believe this is what I need to do. I wanted to confirm in practical terms before I start cutting out components.

I have two K3s. One is an older unit I bought from a friend's estate and it indeed had a KAT3 in it. After smoke poured from the tuner section, I discovered two burned caps on the underside of the board. I also noticed the core must have heated up enough as the insulated terminal to one tab of the circuit breaker was burned a bit (most likely where it was touching the coil).

So to confirm, the now charred caps can be removed as well as the wound core L10 from the top side of the board. I should unsolder that and place a jumper to the two points where it attached to the board.I can also cut it out and clean the ends of the enameled wire and bridge those I read.

I put a picture on my website: https://user.xmission.com/~toms/KATTRAP.jpg

The core in question (L10) is the blue one.

Thanks,

Tom NY4I



8.215 trap and C10 on KAT3

Tom Schaefer NY4I
 

I have found many references to removing this trap so I believe this is what I need to do. I wanted to confirm in practical terms before I start cutting out components.

I have two K3s. One is an older unit I bought from a friend's estate and it indeed had a KAT3 in it. After smoke poured from the tuner section, I discovered two burned caps on the underside of the board. I also noticed the core must have heated up enough as the insulated terminal to one tab of the circuit breaker was burned a bit (most likely where it was touching the coil).

So to confirm, the now charred caps can be removed as well as the wound core L10 from the top side of the board. I should unsolder that and place a jumper to the two points where it attached to the board.I can also cut it out and clean the ends of the enameled wire and bridge those I read.

I put a picture on my website: https://user.xmission.com/~toms/KATTRAP.jpg

The core in question (L10) is the blue one.

Thanks,

Tom NY4I



K144XV and 13 Mhz FM filter for a K3

Chris Jensen
 

I want to buy a K144XV with a 13 Mhz FM filter for a K3. 

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