Date   

75 Meter Elecraft Net

Paul Van Dyke
 

Due to people wishing to sit next to us and throw carriers ... 
I am moving us a small distance away...
AND there is the chance someone will be there ... 75m is funny that way
Please take note of 3.825 .... 3.825 at 01:00 UTC   
Sunday night in the US and Monday morning in UTC Land
Keep smiling and be safe
"See" you on the Nets

73   Paul Van Dyke   KB9AVO


Re: KX3 and utility

Kent AA6P
 

Larry,

The FTDI website has an Application Note for Windows 7 with all kinds of helpful information including troubleshooting. That application note should apply to Windows 10 as well. Look for AN_119.

Note that there are separate sections on the website for Application Notes and Installation Guides. The Installation Guide for Windows 10 is AN_396.

https://ftdichip.com/document/application-notes/

https://ftdichip.com/document/installation-guides/

It looks like there are three ways to install the driver. Ideally, Windows does the installation automatically. If a manual installation is required, it involves two separate driver installations. Those include the Bus Layer and the Virtual COM Port Layer.

Lastly, FTDI provides a setup.exe file that combines both driver installations. Look for the setup executable on the righthand side of the driver web page.

https://ftdichip.com/drivers/vcp-drivers/

Note that the Device Manager can be configured to show non-present devices and hidden devices. That is covered in AN_119.

There is a lot of information online about the FTDI FT232R chip as it is also used in Raspberry Pi and Arduino systems. If you choose to delete any existing drivers followed by a clean installation, I saw a recommendation to delete all existing FTDI files in the DriverStore FileRepository. Those files would be stored in C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository.

73, Kent
AA6P


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

Thanks for that suggestion, Jim.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org

On Feb 26, 2021, at 11:31 PM, Jim Shepherd <nvjims@gmail.com> wrote:

You can use a small screw tap like a 1-64 or 2-56 to carefully insert into the hole in the center of the broken off pin and gently turn it until it catches and you can gently pull out the pin. Used this to pull out broken jacks from speaker-mics on handhelds.
73
Jim W6US


Re: MH2 Modification

Bob McGraw - K4TAX
 

Just to be sure, I fired up my K3S in CW mode.  The VOX automatically comes on in CW mode because that is the way I have it configured.  See page 59 in the manual and CW Weight in the CONFIG menu.    Clearly there is NO AUDIO from the open mike when in CW mode.   Likewise, when the VOX is off in CW mode and I use the foot switch for PTT, there is NO AUDIO from the mike.

Now switching to USB or LSB the VOX is automatically OFF.  Again see page 59 in the manual as reference above.

My mike is either a Shure SM-58 which has no ON/OFF switch or my Behringer XM8500, or my Tentec 709A which does have a PTT switch but the mike is "hot" all of the time. 

Configured correctly, it is no issue and does not require changing any VOX settings when switching from any mode to another mode, including CW.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 2/27/2021 9:04 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:

I don't find that to be correct.   No audio is available in CW mode.  VOX is the way the internal keyer handles the TX control.   Using a foot switch does the same thing. 

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 2/26/2021 8:35 AM, w0rw wrote:
When you operate QSK on CW the VOX must be on.
That leaves an open mic.
If you don't have this problem you won't want to make this modification.
Paul  w0rw

Virus-free. www.avg.com


Re: MH2 Modification

Bob McGraw - K4TAX
 

I don't find that to be correct.   No audio is available in CW mode.  VOX is the way the internal keyer handles the TX control.   Using a foot switch does the same thing. 

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 2/26/2021 8:35 AM, w0rw wrote:
When you operate QSK on CW the VOX must be on.
That leaves an open mic.
If you don't have this problem you won't want to make this modification.
Paul  w0rw

Virus-free. www.avg.com


Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Tim Hague M0AFJ <m0afj@...>
 

Hi Bob, I have the 25W one but have a 1KW Solid State Gemini amplifier from www.Thedxshop.com which loafs along at the U.K. legal limit (400W at the antenna). I also go out portable, that’s where the extra power from the transverter would help, the SSPA is too big and heavy to lump about.
150W will certainly allow digital EME and MS operation.

good luck, tell us of your adventures

73 Tim M0AFJ 
IO70ic


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Jim Shepherd
 

You can use a small screw tap like a 1-64 or 2-56 to carefully insert into the hole in the center of the broken off pin and gently turn it until it catches and you can gently pull out the pin.  Used this to pull out broken jacks from speaker-mics on handhelds.
73
Jim W6US


Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Bob Novas
 

Bob – I’m going to go with the 150W option. It’s expensive but cheaper and neater than a transverter and an amplifier.  I’ll have to pinch pennies so the right antenna and feedline will have to wait. So for now, my operating will consist of neighborhood contacts.  Bob – W3DK

 

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Bob McGraw - K4TAX
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 7:23 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

 

If you are planning on 2M FM then 25watts is adequate.  If you plan to work tropo then 150watts is adequate.   If you plan to work 2M SSB via EME then legal limit is necessary.  All of this depends largely on your antenna system.    If you use a simple antenna then don't plan for more than 100 watts or so.   Feedline quality, meaning very low loss, is also critically important.   For my 10 ele yagi at 50 ft I use 75 ft of 1/2" Andrew hardline and with 150 watts I can work digital EME at moonrise or moonset to take advantage of ground gain.

So what do you intend to do, operationally?

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 2/26/2021 2:59 PM, Bob Novas via groups.io wrote:

Tim -  Thanks for the response.  I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier.  But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

 

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

 

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ

 

Virus-free. www.avg.com


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

Very possibly!
Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org

On Feb 26, 2021, at 7:42 PM, VE9AA - Mike <ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

GL Chris

Maybe see you on SIX this summer.

Mike


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

VE9AA - Mike
 

GL Chris

Maybe see you on SIX this summer.

Mike

On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 08:35 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK wrote:
Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. I’ll give that a try.

I have to admit that I haven’t been paying close attention the KX3 group of late since my change of focus to the K3!
That will probably change come July/August as I prepare to press the KX3 into service again as the 10GHz I/F!

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@...
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. I’ll give that a try.

I have to admit that I haven’t been paying close attention the KX3 group of late since my change of focus to the K3!
That will probably change come July/August as I prepare to press the KX3 into service again as the 10GHz I/F!

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org

On Feb 26, 2021, at 6:32 PM, VE9AA - Mike <ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

This happened to us here 2 weeks ago, but not on a K3, but my sons old desktop computer.
My wife found a long, skinny pair of tweezers from her craft room and yanked the 3 parts out of the headphone jack in one go.

When I got home, I was very impressed. I probably would've stuck a thin wire or guitar string in there with a miniscule hook on it.

Something tells me this was a thread on the KX3 forum a couple weeks ago of this exact subject.

GL Chris

Mike
On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 06:18 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK wrote:
hat should of course read as 6.3 to 3.5mm adapter.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org


Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

VE9AA - Mike
 

 This happened to us here 2 weeks ago, but not on a K3, but my sons old desktop computer.
My wife found a long, skinny pair of tweezers from her craft room and yanked the 3 parts out of the headphone jack in one go.

When I got home, I was very impressed. I probably would've stuck a thin wire or guitar string in there with a miniscule hook on it.

Something tells me this was a thread on the KX3 forum a couple weeks ago of this exact subject.

GL Chris

Mike

On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 06:18 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK wrote:
hat should of course read as 6.3 to 3.5mm adapter.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@...


Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Bob McGraw - K4TAX
 

If you are planning on 2M FM then 25watts is adequate.  If you plan to work tropo then 150watts is adequate.   If you plan to work 2M SSB via EME then legal limit is necessary.  All of this depends largely on your antenna system.    If you use a simple antenna then don't plan for more than 100 watts or so.   Feedline quality, meaning very low loss, is also critically important.   For my 10 ele yagi at 50 ft I use 75 ft of 1/2" Andrew hardline and with 150 watts I can work digital EME at moonrise or moonset to take advantage of ground gain.

So what do you intend to do, operationally?

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 2/26/2021 2:59 PM, Bob Novas via groups.io wrote:

Tim -  Thanks for the response.  I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier.  But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

 

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

 

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ


Virus-free. www.avg.com


Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Wes Stewart
 

It's been years since I was on 2M EME pre-imaginary (JT) mode and then 1.5KW was marginal. I would opt for the 150W to have plenty of drive for the real amp :-)

Tropo and MS are fun too. I was working 400 mile tropo routinely in the mountainous deserts of AZ.

You can see a couple of amps I built on my QRZ page.  https://www.qrz.com/db/n7ws

Wes  N7WS

 

On Friday, February 26, 2021, 3:40:12 PM MST, mikerodgerske5gbc via groups.io <mikerodgerske5gbc@...> wrote:


Bob, yes guys run over 150w on ssb anyway. Guys running big Henry floor model amps. Beautiful things for a kilowatt maybe more. 

I ran a small te systems brick about 170w in the big truck. 

73
Mike R

7!
Absolutely Awesome 

On Feb 26, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK <chrisc@...> wrote:

I am using my old-style DEMI 28 to 144MHz transverter with my K3 and it does work over the whole 4MHz of the band, so you should be fine.
Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@...



On Feb 26, 2021, at 2:59 PM, Bob Novas via groups.io <bob.novas@...> wrote:

Tim -  Thanks for the response.  I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier.  But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ








Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

mikerodgerske5gbc
 

Bob, yes guys run over 150w on ssb anyway. Guys running big Henry floor model amps. Beautiful things for a kilowatt maybe more. 

I ran a small te systems brick about 170w in the big truck. 

73
Mike R

7!
Absolutely Awesome 

On Feb 26, 2021, at 4:17 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK <chrisc@...> wrote:

I am using my old-style DEMI 28 to 144MHz transverter with my K3 and it does work over the whole 4MHz of the band, so you should be fine.
Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@...



On Feb 26, 2021, at 2:59 PM, Bob Novas via groups.io <bob.novas@...> wrote:

Tim -  Thanks for the response.  I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier.  But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ








Re: 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

That should of course read as 6.3 to 3.5mm adapter.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org

On Feb 26, 2021, at 4:15 PM, Chris Cox, N0UK <chrisc@chris.org> wrote:

Wondering whether anyone else had experienced a 3.3 to 3.5mm adapter breaking apart IN the paddle Jackson a K3?
The tip and ring portion of the adapter are now stuck inside the paddle jack on th at radio.

Looking for any tips from others that may have experienced similar failures on how to remove the broken piece for the jack.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org







Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

I am using my old-style DEMI 28 to 144MHz transverter with my K3 and it does work over the whole 4MHz of the band, so you should be fine.
Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org

On Feb 26, 2021, at 2:59 PM, Bob Novas via groups.io <bob.novas=verizon.net@groups.io> wrote:

Tim - Thanks for the response. I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier. But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ


6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter broke off in paddle jack

Chris Cox, N0UK
 

Wondering whether anyone else had experienced a 3.3 to 3.5mm adapter breaking apart IN the paddle Jackson a K3?
The tip and ring portion of the adapter are now stuck inside the paddle jack on th at radio.

Looking for any tips from others that may have experienced similar failures on how to remove the broken piece for the jack.

Chris Cox, N0UK
chrisc@chris.org


Re: using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

Bob Novas
 

Tim -  Thanks for the response.  I don’t know whether to go big (150W/$800) or go small (25W/$479). If I go small, I can always buy an amplifier. If I go big, it would seem harder to reduce power to drive a big amplifier.  But, does anyone actually run much more than 150W on 2M? What does moon bounce take nowadays? Bob – W3DK

 

From: Elecraft-K3@groups.io [mailto:Elecraft-K3@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tim Hague M0AFJ via groups.io
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 12:02 PM
To: Elecraft-K3@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Elecraft-K3] using a K3S with a Q5Signal 144MHz transverter

 

I run a Q5 transverter with a straight K3, 28MHz works fine as an IF, I don’t know however if it’s possible to run it up to 32MHz but the new Q5 design uses a clever DLO so Cory may be able to make your transverter dual band, worth chatting to him.
The Q5 unit is better than the Elecraft one, very clean, stable and bomb proof, we have some very big signals in Europe and it copes well.
regarding the drive levels, you are correct, .01mW to 1.27mW, the transverter really only needs about -5 for full output.
The transverter PTT is ground to tx, the K3 key out works fine
the IF is your decision, I like to be able to run 50MHz and 2M at the same time, 28MHz works for me.
just a thought, if I was buying now I’d get the 150W version, easier to loose power than to add it.
73, Tim M0AFJ


Re: MH2 Modification

w0rw
 
Edited

When you operate QSK on CW the VOX must be on, K3s manual p.32.
That leaves an open mic.
Paul  w0rw
i have added details of the circumstances that produce this issue:
 i switch between CW QSK and USB frequently,
When i am in the USB mode and the CW VOX is On because i have not turned it off,
but it not being used. (i don't want to push 2 or 3 switches to turn the VOX off or change  Mic gain settings just to operate USB).
In this USB/VOX On condition the  mic trips the Rig to Tx when there are any loud noises around.
   i use the USB mode for FT8 so i am not handling the mic but any loud noise in the shack trips the VOX on. i did try to reduce the mic gain, That of course stops it. i tried setting the Anti-vox up higher but that only had limited effect for noises.
   i could just turn the VOX off when i am on USB,
i just thought there was no reason to leave the mic hot when there was an unused switch right there in the mic to switch it off.
i have not noticed any ill effects of having the mic line unterminated.
If i wanted to use a Studio VOX mic or a headset VOX mic i might
add in a foot switch.
The MH2 is just an old hand mic.
If you don't have this problem you won't want to make this modification.
Paul  w0rw

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