Date   

Re: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

Stephen Prior <eastbrantwood@...>
 

Look at the archives.  It is a well established fact that HRD + logbook polls the K3 in such a way that the AGC can be randomly turned off.  I can assure you that it's not pleasant, especially if the AF gain is well advanced!  One work around is to buffer HRD's aggressive polling by buffering it with third party (lpbridge?) software which tames the HRD polling rate. Now that HRD is under new ownership, perhaps the issue will be addressed.

Please don't let a software package put you off what is without doubt the best hf transceiver around these days.  And anyway, there's a workaround as I have already described.

73, Stephen G4SJP




On 26 September 2011 22:22, John L Merrill <johnn1jm@...> wrote:
What agc problem?
The K3 work just fine with HRD,



On Sep 26, 2011, at 2:19 PM, w2blc wrote:

> I was doing some research regarding the K3 and HRD. I am a long-time HRD user on my current rig and would prefer to continue, should I purchase the K3.
>
> The AGC problem: If you are using HRD only for rig control, is there a problem?
>
> The K3 is probably overkill for my rag chew operations on 160/75/40 - but, it is on my short list. After fifty years on the air, I decided it was time to get something that is really good. The other contender is the Flex3000.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill W2BLC
>
>



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Re: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

James Chaggaris
 

The K3 works fine with HRD. However, if you have a K3/P3 combo, there is an
AGC issue where HRD randomly turns off AGC.

Best Regards,

Jim

James Chaggaris
President
PowerOne Corp./PowerOne Environmental
1020 Cedar Ave. Suite 203
St. Charles, IL 60174
Phn: 630-443-6500
Cell: 630-669-2241
Fax: 630-443-6505
Website: www.pwrone.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft_K3@... [mailto:Elecraft_K3@...] On
Behalf Of John L Merrill
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 4:22 PM
To: Elecraft_K3@...
Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

What agc problem?
The K3 work just fine with HRD,



On Sep 26, 2011, at 2:19 PM, w2blc wrote:

I was doing some research regarding the K3 and HRD. I am a long-time HRD
user on my current rig and would prefer to continue, should I purchase the
K3.

The AGC problem: If you are using HRD only for rig control, is there a
problem?

The K3 is probably overkill for my rag chew operations on 160/75/40 - but,
it is on my short list. After fifty years on the air, I decided it was time
to get something that is really good. The other contender is the Flex3000.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: ARRL Handbook special - $28.00

Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
 

We are now sold out of the ARRL Handbook.

Thanks for all the orders!

73, Eric


Re: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

barry NF1O
 

I have a friend with a flex 3000 and he likes it but has way to many problems interfacing it. i love the K3 everything i try just works. rtty, psk, cw phone it just works and is easy to interface. i do not use HRD so cant comment on that.
barry
NF1O


To: Elecraft_K3@...
From: w2blc@...
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 21:19:33 +0000
Subject: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

 
I was doing some research regarding the K3 and HRD. I am a long-time HRD user on my current rig and would prefer to continue, should I purchase the K3.

The AGC problem: If you are using HRD only for rig control, is there a problem?

The K3 is probably overkill for my rag chew operations on 160/75/40 - but, it is on my short list. After fifty years on the air, I decided it was time to get something that is really good. The other contender is the Flex3000.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC



Re: [Elecraft_K3] HRD and K3 difficulties

John L Merrill <johnn1jm@...>
 

What agc problem?
The K3 work just fine with HRD,

On Sep 26, 2011, at 2:19 PM, w2blc wrote:

I was doing some research regarding the K3 and HRD. I am a long-time HRD user on my current rig and would prefer to continue, should I purchase the K3.

The AGC problem: If you are using HRD only for rig control, is there a problem?

The K3 is probably overkill for my rag chew operations on 160/75/40 - but, it is on my short list. After fifty years on the air, I decided it was time to get something that is really good. The other contender is the Flex3000.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC


HRD and K3 difficulties

w2blc <w2blc@...>
 

I was doing some research regarding the K3 and HRD. I am a long-time HRD user on my current rig and would prefer to continue, should I purchase the K3.

The AGC problem: If you are using HRD only for rig control, is there a problem?

The K3 is probably overkill for my rag chew operations on 160/75/40 - but, it is on my short list. After fifty years on the air, I decided it was time to get something that is really good. The other contender is the Flex3000.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC


Re: KPA-500 sticky relays?

Roger Dallimore
 

Hi Jeff,

This has happened to me occasionally. Very intermittent, no idea why it should happen.

Otherwise, its a great amp!

73
Roger MW0IDX

K3 #191
KPA-500 #286
K2 #2724
KX1 #416

KPA-500 sticky relays?
Posted by: "blueyondermining" cathrowinternational@... blueyondermining
Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:27 pm (PDT)


Sometimes when I switch my KPA500 to Operate from Standby mode nothing happens (no output whatsoever from the amp).

I checked all the cables and connections and everything else seems up to snuff.

I found that manually bandswitching back and forth a time or two seems to dispel the problem. So what is this problem that I have, sticky relays?

I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem (which is intermittent and usually happens when I first operate the amp).

73, Jeff, NH7RO; Otherwise a very pleased K-Line owner!


ARRL Handbook special - $28.00

Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
 

We have a limited number of new -Hardback- ARRL 2011 Handbooks for $28.00 (regular ARRL price of $59.00).

We will run this price until our current stock is sold out.

See: http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_books.htm

73, Eric WA6HHQ

---
www.elecraft.com


FS: Elecraft W2 HF/V/U wattmeter

vr2xmc
 

Hello Elecrafters,
 
This W2 watter meter was bought in late 2009 but used no more than 5 times.  It is surplus to my requirement and I had better let it find a new home.  It is in like new condition and comes with 2 sensors i.e. 1-2000W 1.8-54Mhz and 1-200W 144-450Mhz.  Supplied with all the connection cables, manual in original package from Elecraft.
 
 
New price from elecraft to CONUS by UPS ground is about US$405.  My price is US$309 including shipping by insured airmail to major cities worldwide.  I accept payment by direct deposit to my US account or paypal (4% fees charged by paypal) 
 
If you are interested, please reply off-the-list.
 
 
TNX & 73,

Johnny VR2XMC


KPA-500 sticky relays?

blueyondermining
 

Sometimes when I switch my KPA500 to Operate from Standby mode nothing happens (no output whatsoever from the amp).

I checked all the cables and connections and everything else seems up to snuff.

I found that manually bandswitching back and forth a time or two seems to dispel the problem. So what is this problem that I have, sticky relays?

I wonder if anyone else has had the same problem (which is intermittent and usually happens when I first operate the amp).

73, Jeff, NH7RO; Otherwise a very pleased K-Line owner!


KPA-500

joe_word
 

I have interest in the KPA-500 amp, is there anyone who has one that I could call and discuss your experience. If so, please email me your phone number and a good time to call. I am correct on QRZ as well.

Thanks,

Joe N9VX


Re: How do I ground an anti-static pad?

ve3dvy <dmoes@...>
 

  I service electronics in the field and have never lost a board due to ESD  and what I service is quite sensitive.   If you are using any tools that are plugged in like a soldering iron then grounding of your mat and the parts being worked on including the chassis is important. otherwise you just need to have everything at the same potential,  if your not soldering etc and have nothing plugged in then don't get to wrapped up about the ground.  although its still a good idea.   If you are soldering it is best to get the ground from the same outlet the soldering iron is plugged into.   I installed a terminal on the back of my soldering station to attach to my ESD mat.

The key concern with ESD protection is that you, the boards, the chassis and tools are at the same potential.  A wrist strap attached to an antistatic mat and keeping the boards in the bags on the mat plus the chassis on the mat and connected if possible will be fine.  most inexpensive ESD mat kits come with various leads that can be attached to your work with alligator clips  this means the chassis. The key is everything you are working with needs to be connected together in some way so that there is no way that one part has a static charge that is different than anything else. Safety note! Be sure that the wrist strap or the connecting cables are protected with  a high resistance at least  1m ohms  with this resistance it will dissipate the static just fine but will limit current to protect you from serious injury if something should come in contact with a live  high voltage source other than just static charge. any proper commercial ESD kit will have this built in.   mine  made by 3M and cost around $30.


Its well worth investing in a good ESD kit that includes a mat leads and a wrist strap.  They are available at most electronic suppliers like  mouser.  if used properly you will never fry a board with electrostatic discharge

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., Grant Youngman wrote:
>
> Well, that won't really help in the least unless the chassis you're working on IS GROUNDED. If it isn't, then it won't do you any good at all. The "touch the computer case" doesn't work either if the computer is not connected to a ground. Tie the leads from the mat and the wrist strap together, get yourself a 3-prong power plug, and connect these leads to the GROUND of an AC outlet.
>
> Grant/NQ5T
>
> On Sep 22, 2011, at 11:08 AM, acanthoman wrote:
>
> > Rob et al.;
> >
> > --- In Elecraft_K3@..., Rob rhmeyer50@ wrote:
> > >
> > but for now I think that just clipping the mat and strap to the chassis I am assembling should work well.
> > Any counter opinions from those more experienced with these newer static-sensitive circuits?
> >
> >
>


Re: P3 New Software

Gerry McGowan
 

Brilliant!!
Just installed new P3 firmware in time for CQ WW RTTY. The changes are excellent.
I'm very pleased to see my wish for a colour change on the 2nd VFO when working split has been incorporated along with other improvements.
I don't think any other manufacturer would have done that for me!
Thanks for a job well done. Can't wait for the big screen version!!!

73 Gerry M0VAA


Re: New K3 on the way!!

mike_k2mk <K2MK@...>
 

Hi Scott,

If you intend to use a separate receive antenna you will need the KXV3A option. This permits the main receiver to receive on a separate antenna through a button push on the front panel. (You will also need this option if you want to later add a P3 display).

Matching of filters is important only for diversity reception. This is a special feature of the sub receiver which you may or may not find useful. Eight pole filters have zero offset and are automatically matched. Five pole filters require factory matching.

Diversity reception involves listening to one antenna in the left ear and a different antenna in the right ear. You can still use your sub receiver with a separate receive antenna and not use diversity reception. This is true when conditions dictate that one antenna is much better than the other. Why bother with diversity if only one of your two antennas can hear the station you're trying to work. It might sound complicated but it falls into place when you have the K3 in front of you.

73,
Mike K2MK

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., "acanthoman" <scottmonks@...> wrote:

Bill, et al.;

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., william conkling <bconk75@> wrote:

OK, you did well. But, you said you included the sub-rec. I would
suggest that you plan your filters carefully, as the sub-rec is
mounted over top of the main rec filters. If you need to change your
filters, you will have to remove the sub-rec to do it. Also, you
will have to remove the sub-rec to change filters in it as well.
This is a PITA.
I don't know what a "PITA" is, but this is something I should have considered!
I downloaded and read the assembly manual a couple of times (but not the subreceiver manual) but this didn't occur to me and my mind just skipped over the way the filters are mounted.
I ordered a 400 hz filter for the main receiver, but it didn't dawn on me that I would need/prefer to have the same filter in the subreceiver (I did ask for matched 2.7's). I also did not catch on that the subreceiver uses a different receive-only antenna (I think), which is a problem in my very small lot. What I think I will do is put up some type of dipole--as long as feasible--and use that as receive and send on the buddypole, that I also bought, until I can come up with a better manner. Here in Lincoln in the apartment I will just throw a wire out the window to make sure the subreceiver works OK and have some fun until we go back.
My budget is now in the red because of splurging on the subreceiver so I will probably get the filter later.

Doing a better job of considering the filter setup better than I did is good advice for anyone buying the K3, with or without the additional receiver. However, as someone mentioned, after building the radio I think I will know it well enough that changing filters won't be a problem, but it WILL take time away from operating! (hi, hi)

Scott
AA0AA


Re: [Elecraft_K3] New K3 on the way!!

george fritkin <georgefritkin@...>
 

What is the big deal  I put together my K3/100 with a bunch of options in my motorhome on the table in 4 hours.
 
Love my 2 K3s
George, W6GF

From: K6LE - Rick
To: Elecraft_K3@...
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft_K3] New K3 on the way!!

 
I don't know the ins and outs of their shipping process but my point is if someone has to pick out 20 4-40 3/4" screws from a bin and then put them in a big bag with all the others what is the extra labor in putting them into a separate little zip lock bag?

BTW, the little zip lock bags are readily available from the local meth dealer!

Rick
K6LE

On 9/22/2011, at 8:43 , w5ov@... wrote:

 

Good idea, but be prepared to pay additional for that service.

> I wonder if my favorite radio company could just send the hardware
> pre-sorted?
>
> I mean, they have to pick the right pieces from their source why not keep
> them separate and send them in individual small bags?
>
> Seems a bit strange to pick out individual pieces and then put them all in
> one package and expect the customer to then break them back out.
>
> BTW, I have to say I was very impressed with the number of extra pieces
> they sent me. I have a bag of spares that will last me a long time!
>
> Rick
> K6LE
>



Re: [Elecraft_K3] How do I ground an anti-static pad?

Grant Youngman <nq5t@...>
 

Well, that won't really help in the least unless the chassis you're working on IS GROUNDED.  If it isn't, then it won't do you any good at all.  The "touch the computer case" doesn't work either if the computer is not connected to a ground.  Tie the leads from the mat and the wrist strap together, get yourself a 3-prong power plug, and connect these leads to the GROUND of an AC outlet. 

Grant/NQ5T

On Sep 22, 2011, at 11:08 AM, acanthoman wrote:

 

Rob et al.;

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., Rob wrote:
>
but for now I think that just clipping the mat and strap to the chassis I am assembling should work well.
Any counter opinions from those more experienced with these newer static-sensitive circuits?



Re: [Elecraft_K3] New K3 on the way!!

K6LE - Rick <K6LE@...>
 

I don't know the ins and outs of their shipping process but my point is if someone has to pick out 20 4-40 3/4" screws from a bin and then put them in a big bag with all the others what is the extra labor in putting them into a separate little zip lock bag?

BTW, the little zip lock bags are readily available from the local meth dealer!

Rick
K6LE

On 9/22/2011, at 8:43 , w5ov@... wrote:

 


Good idea, but be prepared to pay additional for that service.

> I wonder if my favorite radio company could just send the hardware
> pre-sorted?
>
> I mean, they have to pick the right pieces from their source why not keep
> them separate and send them in individual small bags?
>
> Seems a bit strange to pick out individual pieces and then put them all in
> one package and expect the customer to then break them back out.
>
> BTW, I have to say I was very impressed with the number of extra pieces
> they sent me. I have a bag of spares that will last me a long time!
>
> Rick
> K6LE
>


Re: [Elecraft_K3] Re: How do I ground an anti-static pad?

Rob <rhmeyer50@...>
 

Hi Scott,
I'm guessing the boards will be in  ESD safe packaging. Set each package on the ESD mat and unwrap/ remove the board while the package is on the mat, you are connected to the mat and the radio chassis is on the mat minus any rubber feet of course.
73,
Rob WA9UAA


--- On Thu, 9/22/11, acanthoman wrote:

From: acanthoman
Subject: [Elecraft_K3] Re: How do I ground an anti-static pad?
To: Elecraft_K3@...
Date: Thursday, September 22, 2011, 11:08 AM

 

Rob et al.;

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., Rob wrote:
>
> Hi Scott,
> The main thing here is that you, the boards, and the radio chassis all stay at the same potential. Some strips of aluminum foil placed out on the table for all your parts and the radio will go a long way towards keeping those items at the same potential.
The mat and the wrist strap arrived from amazon yesterday and I saw that each just had an alligator clip-plug combination on a single wire and no way to tie them together. So, I went to the web and found references on using them with computers (I always just used the "keep one hand on the power supply case" method!) and that is exactly what all of them said.
I am noting this here just for those that are considering, as I was, the purchase of a new product. When I get home I will figure a way to tie everything into the station ground, but for now I think that just clipping the mat and strap to the chassis I am assembling should work well.
Any counter opinions from those more experienced with these newer static-sensitive circuits?

Scott AA0AA


Re: How do I ground an anti-static pad?

acanthoman <scottmonks@...>
 

Rob et al.;

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., Rob <rhmeyer50@...> wrote:

Hi Scott,
The main thing here is that you, the boards, and the radio chassis all stay at the same potential. Some strips of aluminum foil placed out on the table for all your parts and the radio will go a long way towards keeping those items at the same potential.
The mat and the wrist strap arrived from amazon yesterday and I saw that each just had an alligator clip-plug combination on a single wire and no way to tie them together. So, I went to the web and found references on using them with computers (I always just used the "keep one hand on the power supply case" method!) and that is exactly what all of them said.
I am noting this here just for those that are considering, as I was, the purchase of a new product. When I get home I will figure a way to tie everything into the station ground, but for now I think that just clipping the mat and strap to the chassis I am assembling should work well.
Any counter opinions from those more experienced with these newer static-sensitive circuits?

Scott AA0AA


Re: New K3 on the way!!

acanthoman <scottmonks@...>
 

Bill, et al.;

--- In Elecraft_K3@..., william conkling <bconk75@...> wrote:

OK, you did well. But, you said you included the sub-rec. I would
suggest that you plan your filters carefully, as the sub-rec is
mounted over top of the main rec filters. If you need to change your
filters, you will have to remove the sub-rec to do it. Also, you
will have to remove the sub-rec to change filters in it as well.
This is a PITA.
I don't know what a "PITA" is, but this is something I should have considered!
I downloaded and read the assembly manual a couple of times (but not the subreceiver manual) but this didn't occur to me and my mind just skipped over the way the filters are mounted.
I ordered a 400 hz filter for the main receiver, but it didn't dawn on me that I would need/prefer to have the same filter in the subreceiver (I did ask for matched 2.7's). I also did not catch on that the subreceiver uses a different receive-only antenna (I think), which is a problem in my very small lot. What I think I will do is put up some type of dipole--as long as feasible--and use that as receive and send on the buddypole, that I also bought, until I can come up with a better manner. Here in Lincoln in the apartment I will just throw a wire out the window to make sure the subreceiver works OK and have some fun until we go back.
My budget is now in the red because of splurging on the subreceiver so I will probably get the filter later.

Doing a better job of considering the filter setup better than I did is good advice for anyone buying the K3, with or without the additional receiver. However, as someone mentioned, after building the radio I think I will know it well enough that changing filters won't be a problem, but it WILL take time away from operating! (hi, hi)

Scott
AA0AA