What's involved in building a Homelite engine


"crosley19" <CROSLEY19@...>
 

I have a local machinist that specializes in racing automotive
work. He cut the flange off of an old Crosley crank right at the rear
seal flange, drilled it and tapped it, then machined down the
Homelite crank and threaded it, and screwed the flange on, and then
drilled and pinned the flange so it wouldn't unscrew. Then I milled
out the crankcase for the larger pistons to clear the webs. You have
to remove the studs for the main bearings for the Crosley block and
drill them over size to accept the Homelite cylinder mounting studs.
Drilled and tapped the water outlet holes for the water cooled
exhaust manifold in the cylinder head, and installed flush pipe
plugs. Then drilled the back of the block for the water temp gauge,
and installed a special pipe plug (John Deere part) to accept the
temp bulb. Don't have to do anything for the water flow around the
cylinders. The water flows freely if you use a military 4 blade water
pump. The front pulley was made by machining the crank shaft coupler
from the Homelite, and maching a 3 inch Crosley pulley. The crank is
hardened in the nose of the Homelite, so you cannot tap it. I cut
off .015 inch off the front of the Homelite crank. Had to cut down
the front so I could get a good fit on the tower gears and welded a
stud into the crank to hold the pulley on. An adapter had to be
machined to mount the fan pulley also. The stock Crosley carb
delivers enough fuel for the Homelite, had to open up the screw 3
turns.
Alot of machining to do this, I would not suggest you try it
yourself unless you are a master mechanic- master machinist, or get
good help. You must use the heavy duty military crankcase, and
aluminum oil pan to take the extra stress from the increased H.P. A
local racer tried this years ago using a stock Crosley crankcase, and
tin oil pan, it split the crankcase right up the middle after 10
miles of hard driving.