Topics

vapor lock issue


Brett Wright
 

my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Dennis Terdy
 

Brett,
I have a 47 too. Can't over emphasized cleaning behind the plates...mine were 3/4 filled! It brought the temp down big time!! Another very basic thought is changing where the fuel line comes from when it enters the fuel pump. My CC goes right between the block and the fan next to the distributor- strange!! and a hot spot. My CD is routed over the front of the valve cover --- but not between.... Might be a simple option to try. 
Dennis

On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 6:17 PM <bwright@...> wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett



--
Dennis Terdy


Spock Arnold
 

Could you take a picture of how your fuel line is run under the hood.  Also look at how it runs from the tank to under the hood.  I had a wagon one time that someone had run the fuel line right next to the exhaust. 

On Apr 11, 2020 5:44 PM, bwright@... wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


A50CROSLEYTRK@...
 

My truck would die after a short rest stop about when I would hit high gear. I think the gasoline in the fuel pump boiled and carb run out of fuel at about high. I added a shield under the fuel pump that seams to have worked.  I think I got it from Service Motors.
       Robert 

In a message dated 4/11/2020 7:17:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, bwright@... writes:

my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


crosleyshortsport
 

After reading your list, My next question would be,  Do you have a tillotson or Carter carb ?  An answer to your question about typically running hot, is yes, I am also in a hilly area, and they can get quite warm over the hills. I have 5 Crosleys and have the fuel pump shields on all of them. The tillotson carb seems to work better for me when the temps get hot. I have also been changing my upper fuel lines over to the braided flexible steel lines. Quite expensive lines to have made at the hose and belt shop, however, No kinking or suctioning closed when hot, and no breakdown of rubber fuel lines. I would also recommend replacing the rubber in your fuel pump. Our fine suppliers carry the complete fuel pump rebuild kits.  crosleyautoclub.com and look for suppliers.


On Sat, Apr 11, 2020, 7:17 PM <bwright@...> wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


crosleyshortsport
 

Be sure you have a steel fuel line from the tank up to the engine bay. If someone ran rubber that far instead of steel, it can collapse during the warm season or when it gets old.


On Sat, Apr 11, 2020, 7:51 PM crosleyshortsport via groups.io <crosleyshortsport=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
After reading your list, My next question would be,  Do you have a tillotson or Carter carb ?  An answer to your question about typically running hot, is yes, I am also in a hilly area, and they can get quite warm over the hills. I have 5 Crosleys and have the fuel pump shields on all of them. The tillotson carb seems to work better for me when the temps get hot. I have also been changing my upper fuel lines over to the braided flexible steel lines. Quite expensive lines to have made at the hose and belt shop, however, No kinking or suctioning closed when hot, and no breakdown of rubber fuel lines. I would also recommend replacing the rubber in your fuel pump. Our fine suppliers carry the complete fuel pump rebuild kits.  crosleyautoclub.com and look for suppliers.

On Sat, Apr 11, 2020, 7:17 PM <bwright@...> wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Steve Perry
 

I’ve seen nearly completely clogged rubber fuel lines caused by Ethanol. Just in case...


Ed Limke
 

Had same vapor lock. I made shield for fuel pump bolted to last bolt on EHX manifold.                                                                                                                                                          om: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf O bwright@...
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 4:45 PM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: [Crosley-Gang] vapor lock issue

 

my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Brett Wright
 

I am going after those plates next. my fuel line goes between and is an easy change but the fuel pump itself gets so hot you can't keep your hand on it.


Brett Wright
 

ok try #2 to respond to this comment. The fuel line from the tank is all steel. from a design perspective the fuel pump so close to the header is the issue in my opinion. I know that the rubber fuel lines are not collapsing. I iced the fuel pump down after one episode and got immediate relief.


Brett Wright
 

I have a really nice shield installed and it does not solve the issue


Jim Bollman
 

Surprised no one mentioned the cardboard on both sides of the radiator to make sure the air goes through the radiator. It is available from Service Motors and Yankee Crosley.

It is a long shot but make sure you don't have a leak on the exhaust manifold gasket and blowing exhaust on the fuel pump.

Jim...

On Apr 11, 2020, at 9:34 PM, bwright@... wrote:

I am going after those plates next. my fuel line goes between and is an easy change but the fuel pump itself gets so hot you can't keep your hand on it.


Brett Wright
 

It would not take me long to check this out. Any rubber lines are new but I am 100% sure this is true vapor lock. icing the fuel pump removes the issue fast


Brett Wright
 

The cardboard is in place on both sides. I will check for a well positioned exhaust gasket leak 


Brett Wright
 

I am aware that Ethanol fuels vapor lock at lower temperatures than non Ethanol fuels. Last summer I syphoned the tank out and put non ethanol fuel in and guess what? It didn't make a remarkable difference! I am going to remove those plates and eliminate that possible source. If I didn't mention it before the fuel line is steel to the engine compartment. They have always been plenty open when I have blown on them. The tank cap is vented. With so many things eliminated I favor that something is amiss with the cooling system like a weak pump or buildup around the cylinder walls in the block. keep casting ideas though


Jim Bollman
 

I didn't see anything about a rebuilt fuel pump. Several others mentioned fuel pump as possibility.

On Apr 11, 2020, at 9:59 PM, bwright@... wrote:

I am aware that Ethanol fuels vapor lock at lower temperatures than non Ethanol fuels. Last summer I syphoned the tank out and put non ethanol fuel in and guess what? It didn't make a remarkable difference! I am going to remove those plates and eliminate that possible source. If I didn't mention it before the fuel line is steel to the engine compartment. They have always been plenty open when I have blown on them. The tank cap is vented. With so many things eliminated I favor that something is amiss with the cooling system like a weak pump or buildup around the cylinder walls in the block. keep casting ideas though


Brett Wright
 

Sorry I missed that in my list but I did rebuild it with all new parts. 


Brett Wright
 

one other clue that it is not clogged or kinked fuel line is that it will run all day long at 50mph or more on level at obviously high flow rates. On the other hand, it will not sit in one place with the hood down idling for much over 15minutes without vapor locking. So sitting and idling only the air the less than remarkable fan can drag thru the radiator is in play. So I do know the new cored radiator is more than twice as efficient as the stock cored radiator and the fan is the same everyone else has on their car. I will report on what is behind the plate soon


Ron D.
 

Just a thought that I have not seen mentioned is this. What about trying some of that titanium exhaust wrap, like racers or hot rodders wrap on their headers, to keep the exhaust heat out of the engine compartment. A 50' roll is under $20, and may be worth a try to keep the heat off the fuel pump.


Brett Wright
 

not a bad idea but I keep thinking I am missing something big because this does not seem to be any where near the problem I have on other folks cars. I plan to attack those plates today if all goes well.