Topics

special engine tool

paul
 

Folks,
what kind of wrench works on the center 2 manifold nuts?   a home made one?   use a cheap box end and grind around the sides until it just slips on?   grind slow and keep it cool or dip into water?   does it really matter since those nuts shouldn't be that tight?   wanting to change gaskets.
also on distributor advance,  does one pull the breaker plate to be sure the advance is not stuck? any secrets, it's not going to fly apart with a hundred springs is it? like the cloth snake in a can....   thanks,  Paul Rinehart
--

Richard Williams
 

Hold the rotor and see if it turns OK. Should move if it is not stuck


On ‎Saturday‎, ‎July‎ ‎28‎, ‎2018‎ ‎03‎:‎12‎:‎03‎ ‎PM, paul <bikertrash@...> wrote:


Folks,
what kind of wrench works on the center 2 manifold nuts?   a home made one?   use a cheap box end and grind around the sides until it just slips on?   grind slow and keep it cool or dip into water?   does it really matter since those nuts shouldn't be that tight?   wanting to change gaskets.
also on distributor advance,  does one pull the breaker plate to be sure the advance is not stuck? any secrets, it's not going to fly apart with a hundred springs is it? like the cloth snake in a can....   thanks,  Paul Rinehart
--

paul
 

DUHHH  thanks on that one Richard. re-inventing the wheel with those tiny screws didn't thrill me.   Paul

On 7/28/2018 6:19 PM, Richard Williams via Groups.Io wrote:
Hold the rotor and see if it turns OK. Should move if it is not stuck



Jim Bollman
 

I made my special wrench as you described, only I started with an old but good quality box wrench that I bought at a flea market for a coupe of dollars, that way I knew I was starting with good steel. Over the years I have collected a tool box drawer of special tools that I have made or bought. Those tools only come out when the standard tools don't work.

On Jul 28, 2018, at 6:11 PM, paul <bikertrash@...> wrote:

Folks,
what kind of wrench works on the center 2 manifold nuts?   a home made one?   use a cheap box end and grind around the sides until it just slips on?   grind slow and keep it cool or dip into water?   does it really matter since those nuts shouldn't be that tight?   wanting to change gaskets.
also on distributor advance,  does one pull the breaker plate to be sure the advance is not stuck? any secrets, it's not going to fly apart with a hundred springs is it? like the cloth snake in a can....   thanks,  Paul Rinehart
--
<rrack.jpg>

L.E. Hardee
 

Speaking of special tools, I learned as a teenager over fifty years ago, that to get the block to crankcase nuts that are between the cylinders, I had to shell out the big bucks and buy a Snap-On 6-point box wrench.  It was thinner due to the high strength steel to get in the tight area, and the 6 sides griped the corroded nuts.  The standard 12 point wrench just rounded off the nut corners.

On Sat, Jul 28, 2018 at 6:43 PM, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
I made my special wrench as you described, only I started with an old but good quality box wrench that I bought at a flea market for a coupe of dollars, that way I knew I was starting with good steel. Over the years I have collected a tool box drawer of special tools that I have made or bought. Those tools only come out when the standard tools don't work.

On Jul 28, 2018, at 6:11 PM, paul <bikertrash@...> wrote:

Folks,
what kind of wrench works on the center 2 manifold nuts?   a home made one?   use a cheap box end and grind around the sides until it just slips on?   grind slow and keep it cool or dip into water?   does it really matter since those nuts shouldn't be that tight?   wanting to change gaskets.
also on distributor advance,  does one pull the breaker plate to be sure the advance is not stuck? any secrets, it's not going to fly apart with a hundred springs is it? like the cloth snake in a can....   thanks,  Paul Rinehart
--
<rrack.jpg>

Jaks
 

and after you grind off the sides off the 'box'.  bend the wrench into a 'U' so it comes up around the manifolds and you don't have to compete phor space with water hose, pump, or generator.  Vice grips will aid the wrench tightening or loosening

Jaks Phillips
papajaks@...


From: Jim Bollman <Jim@...>
To: Crosley-Gang <Crosley-Gang@groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Jul 28, 2018 6:43 pm
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] special engine tool

I made my special wrench as you described, only I started with an old but good quality box wrench that I bought at a flea market for a coupe of dollars, that way I knew I was starting with good steel. Over the years I have collected a tool box drawer of special tools that I have made or bought. Those tools only come out when the standard tools don't work.

On Jul 28, 2018, at 6:11 PM, paul <bikertrash@...> wrote:

Folks,
what kind of wrench works on the center 2 manifold nuts?   a home made one?   use a cheap box end and grind around the sides until it just slips on?   grind slow and keep it cool or dip into water?   does it really matter since those nuts shouldn't be that tight?   wanting to change gaskets.
also on distributor advance,  does one pull the breaker plate to be sure the advance is not stuck? any secrets, it's not going to fly apart with a hundred springs is it? like the cloth snake in a can....   thanks,  Paul Rinehart
--
<rrack.jpg>

Tim Hamblen
 

Of the five we have , I have pulled the engines on 3 and being on a stand sure helps. But I too have ground a 1/2 " wrench to work. The smaller nuts that Service has work well too. I generally use several tools to get them tight. A quarter inch drive ratchet, extension and socket help in the beginning. One of the old distributor wrenches help too. 

paul
 

I wondered about the distributor wrench once I saw the post about turning it into a "U"  when Jaks said that it was a "smack my temple with the heel of my hand" moment. thanks all, now I will do something besides stare at those 2 nuts and scratch my neck. it'll take longer to make the tool than get them off but the pleasure of "I did it" wins out. that's the 47 convertible.
first today I'm chasing the engine surge in the runabout (Saturday pictures from Wauseon near the bottom right column). today I try plugs, rotor, timing, and maybe wires. it idles pretty decent, responds to the throttle no load but surges and falls flat, back and forth just off idle under load. get it moving, full throttle and it chirps the tire going into second, really strong, but heck it probably doesn't weigh 600 lbs and has a grabby clutch. I changed the Tillitson main jet because the other one was screwed almost in to keep it from leaking. checked the fuel pressure, sprayed the carb throat, the easy ,cheap stuff.
why do I keep buying things cheaply and wondering why they're not perfect? Becky likes it because it keeps me in the driveway not the bars..   Paul Rinehart

On 7/29/2018 12:53 PM, Tim Hamblen via Groups.Io wrote:
Of the five we have , I have pulled the engines on 3 and being on a stand sure helps. But I too have ground a 1/2 " wrench to work. The smaller nuts that Service has work well too. I generally use several tools to get them tight. A quarter inch drive ratchet, extension and socket help in the beginning. One of the old distributor wrenches help too.
,

Ron Dole
 

I did the manifold nuts the old fashion way. I used an open end wrench, moved it a fraction of an inch, then flipped the wrench, and moved it a fraction, then flipped the wrench and moved it a fraction, ........ you get the picture. When I reinstall them, I will have built, ground, bent, a special wrench for them.