!952 Super Wagon 32 mph top speed?
Ken Ballein
Hi, Ken
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Brett Wright
Just power your timing light with twelve bolts from another battery. It will then do the job.
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Brett Wright
CEO
Wright Construction Co., Inc.
On Dec 23, 2020, at 4:44 PM, Ken Ballein via groups.io <kballein@...> wrote:
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Brett Wright
Volts I meant obviously
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Brett Wright
CEO
Wright Construction Co., Inc.
On Dec 23, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Brett Wright via groups.io <bwright@...> wrote:
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Hi Ken,
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I was having a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be under the distributor cap. There is a small piece that looks kind of like between leather and paper that goes up against the wall underneath the distributor cap and keeps the points from grounding out. Mine was askew and was allowing some spark through but not completely and I was losing power because of it. I put it back in place and now I have plenty of power. Just something you may want to check. Tim King
On Dec 23, 2020, at 4:44 PM, Ken Ballein <kballein@...> wrote:
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Don Pitchford
Ken, My Dad's 48 wagon had a similar problem. It would idle all day, but lost power at about 3500 RPM. After trying several carburetors I traced it to bad connections in the ignition system. I can't explain how it was loosing spark at higher RPMs but after I cleaned all the ignition connections, replaced a few questionable spade lugs on the wires to the coil and made sure all the ground connections were good it will really wind up and go. This isn't necessarily a good thing in a vehicle with questionable mechanical brakes. Good Luck, Don Pitchford
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dpaananen52@...
I also have a 52 super wagon. What is a reasonable top speed to expect? I have gotten mine to a little over 40, but I just about have to use a calendar to time it.
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Bob H.
I get the 51 VC and 51 super wagon up to 50mph pretty regularly on roads around here. It would go faster I'm sure but I'm not inclined to do so. 😉 -Bob
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020, 5:52 PM <dpaananen52@...> wrote: I also have a 52 super wagon. What is a reasonable top speed to expect? I have gotten mine to a little over 40, but I just about have to use a calendar to time it.
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Steve
I've had mine to over 50. Wife was following and she confirmed. Accused me of trying to blow the engine. Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: dpaananen52@... Date: 12/23/20 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] !952 Super Wagon 32 mph top speed?
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Steve
I've had my Crofton Bug up to 45 and it has a 6.13 rear axle. Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 edge, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message -------- From: dpaananen52@... Date: 12/23/20 4:52 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] !952 Super Wagon 32 mph top speed?
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If your Crosley is running well and steering, brakes, shocks are good, you should be able to top 65 MPH. You may not want to if any other cars are around though. My dead stock '49 Hotshot gives up a little after 65, our old '47 PU with a fresh motor would top 70. Modified Crosleys can get quite a bit more speed if you can handle it.
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Brett Wright
If nothing has been done to that carb since 1972, I would definitely disassemble it, clean everything and rebuild it.
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Brett Wright
CEO
Wright Construction Co., Inc.
On Dec 23, 2020, at 4:44 PM, Ken Ballein via groups.io <kballein@...> wrote:
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L.E. Hardee
Back when I was a stupid teenager, I got my 13 year old 52 wagon to have the speedometer pointer to be bouncing off the pin just past 70mph. BTW I was riding on the original worn 1952 Goodyear Super Cushion tires. The car was doing the slow bounce just like an airplane does just before it leaves the runway.
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 6:02 PM Steve <brawnybug@...> wrote:
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Steve
I would echo that sentiment as well. Before rebuilding my carbs, my cars would get up to around 30 and then just about stall out. Had to run half choke to keep them running and get back home. Any fuel left sitting in a carb for any extended period of time will cause varnish to build up and clog passages in the carb. I live where ethanol is added to all fuels. It is especially notorious for causing carb problems on small engines.
From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of Brett Wright
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2020 5:11 PM To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] !952 Super Wagon 32 mph top speed?
If nothing has been done to that carb since 1972, I would definitely disassemble it, clean everything and rebuild it. Brett Wright CEO Wright Construction Co., Inc. On Dec 23, 2020, at 4:44 PM, Ken Ballein via groups.io <kballein@...> wrote:
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Dennis Terdy
Simple question-how old is your gas?
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 3:44 PM Ken Ballein <kballein@...> wrote:
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A few things to go with the already suggested ideas.
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If you're using gas with alcohol, anything old in the fuel system could shed crap that will mess up the carb including things in the carb. Old fuel lines are really bad about shading pieces of rubber as is the fuel pump diaphragm if the fuel pump hasn’t been rebuilt with alcohol resistant parts. If it is a fuel problem and the carb isn’t completely plugged you might try some Sea Foam cars cleaner both sprayed in the carb and added to the fuel. It does miracles. If you have a Carter Carb, and have no experience rebuilding a carb, you may want to farm it out. If it is a Tillotson it is easier to rebuild but has a few tricks you need to know or you could ruin some parts taking it apart. Rebuilding kits and rebuilt carbs are available from our Crosley vendors. http://crosleyautoclub.com/PartsSuppliers.html I have not used a timing light on a Crosley for over 40 years. Here is the way I set the timing. Set your points to the proper gap and connect a tachometer to your engine, I have an old Sears Dwell/Tach unit that I use. Start your Crosley and block or set your throttle for about 2000 rpm. Loosen the locking screw on the distributor and slowly turn back and forth till you maximize the rpm and tighten the distributor screw. You have now set the timing for best performance and economy. You have to do this at above 2000 rpm so that the mechanical advance is fully advanced. Jim…
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Ken Ballein
All,
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Thanks for all the tips. I did check the insulator on the bolt in distributor for the points. Looked pretty iffy. Took it apart and made a new insulator from similar gasket material. Checked the coil and found it wired backwards. Now the + wire goes
to the points (positive ground). Also found the ignition wire terminal nearly broken off. Replaced it.
All good things to fix. So far no change, except it seems to idle even better.
The gas is fresh, tank was dipped and coated, air dries for several days then filled with gas.
I’ll try the timing as Jim suggested. Haven’t hooked up a tach yet.
I do suspect the fuel line and/or the carb (Tillotson). Already tried the Seafoam to no avail.
It will be a few days before I get back to it. Thanks
Ken
On Dec 23, 2020, at 8:31 PM, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
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crosleyshortsport
A couple things come to mind after reading your dilemma. You stated you have worked on the brakes. Jack up the car and be sure the brakes are not set too tight. Be sure they spin freely with very little drag. Also, pertaining to the fuel lines, be sure the rubber fuel lines are only being used as connectors between steel lines. The rubber connectors should not be more than three inches long. Longer lines can collapse. If you have not replaced the steel fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel tank, I suggest to do so. A properly rebuilt original fuel pump will work fine. Let us know how you make out. Jeffrey
On Wed, Dec 23, 2020, 8:31 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
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David Reina
Hi Ken,
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Just want to give a reminder. If you rebuild your Tillotson you have to remove the emulsion tube before removing the top cover or else the tube gets bent. You probably know this but I throw it out there just in case. Dave Brooklyn, NY
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Ken Ballein
Hey everyone,
Still working on my 52. Rebuilt the Tillotson, actually not too bad at all. I found a set of screwdriver bits that actually had bits to remove jets. Worked great on the idle tube. After the rebuild the electric fuel pump seem to overpower the float and
flood the carb. Didn't do that with the old one. I might put the only one back in.
I am still having trouble. Nothing I have done has made a bit of difference in the way it runs.
I did hook up my Dad's old Craftsman 12v analyzer with a separate 12v battery. The rpm check worked great.
So now I know the idle is around 800 with default settings for the idle and power jet. When it gets to about 1500 it's starts running awful.
Does anyone know at what point the mechanical advance starts to kick in? I have a suspicion mine is stuck. I did find a post about checking the screw that holds the condenser. It's an original screw and doesn't appear to be going in too far.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Ken
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Robert Kirk
It is most common for electric pumps to pressurize for US cars with much bigger motors thus more fuel. British cars use about 3# pressure and probably would work. I do stock these if interested.
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