Over Heating
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"rwright24127" <R.Wright@...>
I also have been over heating in the little Crosley. I posted some
photos in the restoration "over heating", that might help some of you. The first couple are of the buid-up and the later are of the baffle on the water pump side that can break. On these photos I put a tape measure so you can make one if need be. If you need any more photos please ask. Ron
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"mrcooby" <x779@...>
--- In Crosley_Gang@y..., "rwright24127" <R.Wright@m...> wrote:
I also have been over heating in the little Crosley. I posted someAs discussed here this month, if your Crosley overheats, get your radiator recored with heavy-duty specifications: eleven fins per inch, as opposed to the stock seven fins per inch. Also make sure the cardboard shrouds are in place between the radiator and fender wells, as they both funnel outside air through the radiator and prevent outside air from entering the engine compartment directly, which causes a stagnant-air condition like blowing into a bottle. Be sure your thermostat is in place. Don't remove it. And then there's the silted-up water-jacket situation, which means you'll have to remove the engine side plates and check for that condition. Or a fast backflush, bypassing the water pump, could cure that. Lou
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"bltlar" <bltlar@...>
As Ron & I discussed at Wauseon, no amount of flushing would have
helped, as we had to use a chisel & hammer to remove built up deposits of hardened crud in water jacket. Wish there was an easy way. Pound & cuss is the only way we have found. Larry --- In Crosley_Gang@y..., "mrcooby" <x779@w...> wrote: --- In Crosley_Gang@y..., "rwright24127" <R.Wright@m...> wrote:someI also have been over heating in the little Crosley. I posted you.photos in the restoration "over heating", that might help some of baffle onThe first couple are of the buid-up and the later are of the photosthe water pump side that can break. On these photos I put a tape radiator recored with heavy-duty specifications: eleven fins perplease ask. RonAs discussed here this month, if your Crosley overheats, get your inch, as opposed to the stock seven fins per inch. radiator and fender wells, as they both funnel outside air through the radiator and prevent outside air from entering the engine compartment directly, which causes a stagnant-air condition like blowing into a bottle. you'll have to remove the engine side plates and check for that condition. Or a fast backflush, bypassing the water pump, could cure that.
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Andy Farley
I've been having overheating. I put in the air dams, backflushed the block and radiator, installed a thermostat ( there wasn't one), and I still had overheating. I counted the fins in the radiator and found it to be 7 fins per inch. I know I still need to check the timing and carb adjustment but I didn't want to smoke the engine before I got everything fine tuned so I installed an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator with a 140 degree temp switch mounted on the radiator. Fired it up and about the time the block got up to 220 degrees the aux fan kicked in and the temp dropped down to mid scale on on the Dash. The block temp dropped down to about 180 degrees. I'm making progress. I'm very thankful for all of the great information that everyone has posted. I would be lost without you.
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Barry Smedley
Did you take off the side plates and clean the gunk out of the block?
From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io]
On Behalf Of Andy Farley
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2019 3:50 AM To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] Over Heating
I've been having overheating. I put in the air dams, backflushed the block and radiator, installed a thermostat ( there wasn't one), and I still had overheating. I counted the fins in the radiator and found it to be 7 fins per inch. I know I still need to check the timing and carb adjustment but I didn't want to smoke the engine before I got everything fine tuned so I installed an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator with a 140 degree temp switch mounted on the radiator. Fired it up and about the time the block got up to 220 degrees the aux fan kicked in and the temp dropped down to mid scale on on the Dash. The block temp dropped down to about 180 degrees. I'm making progress. I'm very thankful for all of the great information that everyone has posted. I would be lost without you.
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Do you have the baffles in on both sides of the radiator? My 48 ran hot till I put them in. Also there is one in the top of the hood as well. These make the air pass through the radiator rather than around it. I also rodded out the cores too. My 48 now stays at mid range on the gauge. Rich W.
On Monday, October 21, 2019, 02:36:26 AM PDT, Barry Smedley <BSmedley@...> wrote:
Did you take off the side plates and clean the gunk out of the block?
From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io]
On Behalf Of Andy Farley
I've been having overheating. I put in the air dams, backflushed the block and radiator, installed a thermostat ( there wasn't one), and I still had overheating. I counted the fins in the radiator and found it to be 7 fins per inch. I know I still need to check the timing and carb adjustment but I didn't want to smoke the engine before I got everything fine tuned so I installed an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator with a 140 degree temp switch mounted on the radiator. Fired it up and about the time the block got up to 220 degrees the aux fan kicked in and the temp dropped down to mid scale on on the Dash. The block temp dropped down to about 180 degrees. I'm making progress. I'm very thankful for all of the great information that everyone has posted. I would be lost without you.
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Andy Farley
I haven't removed the side plates yet for 2 reasons. The engine looks like it was recently rebuilt and I don't know how to reinstall the side plates and be sure that they have a good seal. The Air baffles didn't make much difference. It gets hot just idling. That's why I'm looking at timing next, but the distributor won't turn, so I need to get it broke loose.
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Dennis Terdy
Andy, I don't comment often here, but I would check the side plates! They are not real easy to take off or reinstall, but my jackets were 3/4 full of hardened mineral, etc. deposits. It did make the difference and stopped my CC from overheating! It costs under $5 for the two gaskets. Dennis
On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:45 AM Andy Farley <farleya1@...> wrote: I haven't removed the side plates yet for 2 reasons. The engine looks like it was recently rebuilt and I don't know how to reinstall the side plates and be sure that they have a good seal. The Air baffles didn't make much difference. It gets hot just idling. That's why I'm looking at timing next, but the distributor won't turn, so I need to get it broke loose. --
Dennis Terdy
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Barry Smedley
I agree with Dennis, I had a motor that had been rebuilt but I checked the side plates and they were full of gunk, they are easy to take off I would advise doing it.
From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io]
On Behalf Of Dennis Terdy
Sent: Monday, October 21, 2019 1:16 PM To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] Over Heating
Andy, I don't comment often here, but I would check the side plates! They are not real easy to take off or reinstall, but my jackets were 3/4 full of hardened mineral, etc. deposits. It did make the difference and stopped my CC from overheating! It costs under $5 for the two gaskets.
Dennis
On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:45 AM Andy Farley <farleya1@...> wrote:
-- Dennis Terdy
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Richard Helm
I echo Dennis’s recommendation to take off the side plates and clean out the deposits. I did this on mine at the urging of Butch and it was full of gunky deposits. I had no problem getting them off and back on again with new gaskets and no leaking, so unless you are sure they have been cleaned out recently I would urge you to do it. Rich
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The spark plug side is easy to take off and if it is clean you don't have to take off the other side. If you find crude take off both sides to be sure you get it all cleaned out and make sure the deflector plate on the plate where the water pump connects is intact. The deflector plate spreads the water across all the cylinders, it is sometimes corroded away so only cooling the middle cylinders.
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dale@servicemotors.net
I would definitely remove the side plates and check. So many times they are filled with dirt or rust which would cause your issue. Resealing them with new gaskets is very easy. I just did a engine that looked new or very low hours and the water jackets were just packed with dirt and rust.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Service Motors has those gaskets, give us a call 866-449-0029.
On Oct 21, 2019, at 10:15 AM, Dennis Terdy <dennis.terdy@...> wrote:
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Andy Farley
Okay I give, I'll pull the side plates. I'll let you know what I find.
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Joe Brownsberger
I'm not a Crosley expert, and I'm not sure what kind of pressure the water pump creates, but make sure you hoses are strong. If the hoses are weak they will collapse and restrict the flow.
On Mon, Oct 21, 2019, 8:43 PM Andy Farley <farleya1@...> wrote: Okay I give, I'll pull the side plates. I'll let you know what I find.
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Butch
Joe,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Good thought, but not really applicable to the Crosley cooling system. Butch
On 10/22/2019 5:13 AM, Joe Brownsberger wrote:
I'm not a Crosley expert, and I'm not sure what kind of pressure the water pump creates, but make sure you hoses are strong. If the hoses are weak they will collapse and restrict the flow.
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Andy Farley
Well it looks like you guys nailed it. Took both side plates off and the water jacket was full of crud. Service Motors sent me me the new gaskets (even though something went wrong with my credit number). When I get it back together I'll let you know if it fixed the overheating problem. I'm guessing it will. The side plate with the diverter is useable but should be replaced. Does anyone know where I can get one?
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Mike S
Anyone have a photo of what the diverter looks like? I'm about to pull my side plates off also (symptoms not quite as bad as Andy's, but still running warmer than it should). If I have to fab something I'd like to know what it looks like.
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James Dlapa
This is on a braje side cover. I don’t have a steel one off at the moment, but same idea.
On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 1:14 PM Mike S <miso7@...> wrote: Anyone have a photo of what the diverter looks like? I'm about to pull my side plates off also (symptoms not quite as bad as Andy's, but still running warmer than it should). If I have to fab something I'd like to know what it looks like.
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Andy Farley
I like the cooling fins on those. Will they fit a 49 Crosley cast iron block. Where can I find a set?
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James Dlapa
They will fit, they are available but don’t have the info. Off the top of my heads maybe someone can chime in. I know this has come up before. Perhaps if you search braje on the discussion board.
On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 3:43 PM Andy Farley <farleya1@...> wrote: I like the cooling fins on those. Will they fit a 49 Crosley cast iron block. Where can I find a set?
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