I've seen both of these cars, they are BEAUTIFUL! Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Bud, The "TEE" at the bottom, is the high speed mixture screw. The screw on the top, is the idle mixture screw. The screw on the side (throttle shaft) is the idle speed adjustment. Glad that you've go

Howdy Bud, A couple of different ways. Easiest is, look the carb over well, it should say either Carter or Tillotson on it somewhere. The Tillotson also has a model number stamped into the side. The C

Howdy Bud, Sorry for the delay, life sometimes gets in the way of fun stuff! The spark plug gap is .025, the point gap is .020 to .024, with a dwell setting of 44 degrees. The point gap and changing i

Don, A couple of issues going on; 1, Crosleys are well known for the carbs going dry (both heat boiling the fuel out and leaking it out) when sitting for a period of time. If it's an extended period,

Howdy Bud, Please, better define you starting problems. Long cranking, without firing? Will fire, but not keep running? Will try to run, but dies when you release the starter? Also, what carburetor ha

Howdy Don, I have built engines with that same camshaft, that Barry uses. While it IS a very good cam, and offers a good performance gain, over the stock Crosley cam, it is FAR from radical and requir

Dale, Please make tracings of both of them for me. Thanks, Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Probably both. Also check closely for cracks in the hub sleeve. Crosleys are too well known for that. Butch

No, that is an aftermarket, high compression piston, as mentioned, probably made by Jahns. The regular Crosley pistons, were all flat tops. Butch

Jim, No inconvenience at all, we're Crosley people, we like to help, that's what we're here for, it gives us a purpose in life! Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

No special tool, if you jack the car up a little, by the frame, not the rear axle, it should give you plenty of clearance to remove the plug. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Todd, There are 3 "heavy hitters" in the Crosley parts business. The oldest & largest (and not because I used to own it) is Service Motors, now in Nevada. Second would be Dave Edwards, in Mansfield Oh

Todd, On the carb, grind a wrench down AND remove the cam/valve cover. On the distributor, you must FIRST remove the oil pan and take the gear off of the distributor, before it can be removed from the

Todd, The best one to use is: butch46988@yahoo.com. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Hello Todd, I've been a bit reluctant to respond, due to time constraints, but If you could get it here quickly, I'm pretty sure that we can get it running and probably stopping, in time for the Natio

Good info EXCEPT for: "Also cork plug at left rear of cover that held additional spring and detent ball [for 2-3 rail] probably fell out. Tap hole for 3/8ths-24. Blow out chips. Use set screw with loc

Jim, Please be aware, those bolts (without the groove) can only be used in the late style, big oil hole crankcases. If used in an early style crankcase, immediate engine failure/destruction, is pretty

Don, Remember, simple is NOT the same as easy. The "fluid", in the bulb, that your are working with/against, is ether. Highly volatile and flammable. Dry ice is the key component, freezing the bulb, o

The block thread is 5/8" X 18 (as I recall) fine thread. The chances of the tube being just kinked and not working, are slim. If it's not working, most likely punctured and leaked the fluid out. Butch