Don, Remember, simple is NOT the same as easy. The "fluid", in the bulb, that your are working with/against, is ether. Highly volatile and flammable. Dry ice is the key component, freezing the bulb, o

The block thread is 5/8" X 18 (as I recall) fine thread. The chances of the tube being just kinked and not working, are slim. If it's not working, most likely punctured and leaked the fluid out. Butch

Should you speak with them, make sure that they know that it's only a 2 1/2" bore, and a blind hole (no head). That's what complicates the procedure. Butch

James, Yes, we did one many years ago. Like yours, that block was very special. It was a lot of work and required some special procedures. I'm not sure if some of the materials are available any longe

To my knowledge, any & every know GOOD builder, is backed up MUCH further than that. Virus-free. www.avast.com

I have disassembled, literally, at least a couple hundred of these engines and have never seen anything but a bolt head at the top. Yours sound like someone has snapped off the towershaft bolt and all

The upper tower shaft bolt should just have a 7/16" head (maybe 1/2", I'm not close to one at present), no special tool or socket required. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Congratulations on your new purchase. Before having much concern about the engine running rough, run it thru several heat & cool cycles, things have a tendency of loosening up and reseating themselves

Mike, It's virtually impossible to install the disc backwards, the hub will hit the flywheel. Most likely, the new disc lining, is slightly thicker tan it should be. Very common occurrence. Simple fix

James, To my limited knowledge, electrolysis only works for rust removal, not carbon, oil residue or sludge. We used it a fair amount, in our shop, for rust removal. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

For sludge & crud, just standard cleaning procedures, solvent tank, engine degreaser, simple green, purple power, etc. Brass scrub brush (use steel or stainless steel brushes with some restraint), a m

Tom, Every Crosley Military Generator that I've had, had a Cast Iron engine, not a tin block. Your 53 unit will most certainly be a CIBA engine. Every Air Force generator that I've seen, was not usabl

Well, although the Tin Blocks, were probably not designed to be bored, I know that they can be, kind of. I bored one, my first and last! Since the cylinders are steel, rather that cast iron, the cutti

Howdy Jim, Depending upon which crankcase/bellhousing you have, it may or may not be removable with the crankshaft still installed. The allen head "bolt" that you found, is NOT a bolt, but in fact is

Look behind the front pulley, at the front crank seal area. Does the engine have a "one piece" seal but no retaining screws (located at about the "10 and 2 o'clock positions)? I have had a lot of cran

The gears are different, you still line the marks up as usual. Butch

Jeff, While you have the cam cover off, checking the valve clearances, double check the camshaft timing, more than just the marks lining up. Piston one at TDC (double check the second flywheel mark, b

Sorry Vern, There is NO vacuum advance on a Crosley distributor. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Mike, Had they been pre-drilled, there is a better than even chance, the holes would NOT have lined up on YOUR car. Between Crosley "tolerances" (which in all honesty, were not that bad for the period

Mike, The front springs are already marginal/under rated for the standard Crosley package, with just a driver in place. Also, if using the Crosley front axle, make SURE that you have the 5/8" axle sys