Jim, While the original rears were 7/8", all of the replacements, for many years have been 3/4", as far as I know. I do know, that all of the ones that we sol, were 3/4". Butch Virus-free. www.avast.c

My guess is, you have a stuck piston, a bad rubber line or the shoes are not properly adjusted. You do know that each shoe, on each wheel, must be adjusted separately and the each shoe has two adjustm

David, CE, will be an engine number, for some stupid reason, a number of states used the engine number for title and registration purposes. No, automatic transmissions were never used in Crosleys, fro

6" possibly has a bit smoother engagement. The 6 1/2 has more holding power. Both of those claims are subject to conditions. Yes, the flywheel/pressure plates, have different bolt patterns. Butch

Neal, I have never seen a Tin Block, with the fuel pump mounting location, any where but the front of the camshaft area. The fuel pump is NOT driven by the camshaft itself, but rather by an eccentric

The drawing is wrong. The large end, it should be a vee, like and arrow head, goes up, into the bore. The VEE sealing rings go over it and it helps expand them. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Take it to a parts or an electrical supply house, find a couple of female bullet connectors, the correct size, and male connectors that fit the harness, and make a couple of pigtail adapters. If you d

Rear manifold bolt, is one place, or thru a starter bolt hole, or the starter hole itself (in the bellhousing), are a couple of others. Butch

Brett, A year and model would help, but since you mentioned rebuilding them, I assume that you're talking about the lever (knee) action shocks. Yes, they are single acting, yes, you can service them y

Either, a mechanical or electric gauge will work. Finding a 6 volt electric gauge, in stock locally, might be a challenge. Any mechanical gauge will work, it is not voltage or vehicle specific. Butch

Just remember, you want a LOW pressure pump, 1 1/2 to 3 pounds output. BTW, if you mentioned it, I missed it. What carb do you have? Butch

Passenger's side, 3/4s or so, toward the rear, of the CRANKCASE, not the block. Butch

The double yoked item is for the clutch linkage. The spacer looks like a tube shock insert, but it's hard to tell without some size reference. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Seb, Yes, the rear seal bore can be modified to use the automotive rear seal. Email me, and we'll discuss it. Butch

Raymond, correct, that dashboard is NOT for any Crosley. A photo of the radio would help identify it. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Raymond, That is the CASTING number, on the cast iron block, the engine number is stamped on the aluminum portion (the crankcase). Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

In the earlier style crankcase, with the rope type seal, yes, the crankshaft needs to be dropped first. On the late style crankcase, with the neoprene seal, it does not. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.co

No, most of them had the bolt, rather than the stud. You will find that the hole in the pulley, is larger than the pulleys set up for the bolt. As for repair, it can be center drilled, then drilled an

Not a tin block (COBRA), but it is a cast block (CIBA). The rings and the valves remain the same. Butch

No, those were the COBRA (tin) blocks. Same bore though, although some of those used shorter, 3 ring pistons. Butch