Seb, Although I doubt that the spring broke (this would have shown up when checking clearances), it's quite possible that some carbon has dislodged and caught between the valve and the seat. With the

Joe, Good thought, but not really applicable to the Crosley cooling system. Butch

I'm wit L.E., on this. I believe that food coloring is water soluble, not too compatible with engine oil. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Park, Drilling small holes thru it, at the appropriate locations, will help with visibility. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Uh, How do you turn shoes, on a brake lathe? I've worked in a lot of shops, owned a couple of brake lathes, including Ammco and Accuturn. Neither were equipped in any way, to touch a brake shoe. We tu

Yes, 35 amp is fine for the Crosley. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Turning the drums, on a lathe, (referring to the rears, especially) is a bit more difficult than it appears. You must have a good way to center the drum on its axis, and keep it true thru its travel,

We had one but sold it when we sold Service Motors. Another problem, with the 3/16" inch lining (as I recall), often it won't even fit in the drum, without doing some arcing/grinding on it. Without th

Since no one has addressed this in a nondestructive manner, Service Motors does or did, rent a special puller set for removing steering wheels, without damage. Lacking that, you can use a bearing pull

David, No I don't know for sure, I've disassembled them in all configurations. The Service Manual shows, the 9" with the short shoe to the rear, but that really means not a lot, given the general natu

David, If you're referring to the beveling of the ends of the shoe, yes. That helps keep the brakes from grabbing, at least until they have seated. It also helps prevent the linings from chipping at t

David, Crosley, like most manufacturers, used a long and a short shoe, this was done for various reasons. When we had Service Motors, and when I do shoes here, now, I use long linings on all shoes. Th

Jeff, Happy to help, glad it worked out. Butch

Jeff, Use the upmost caution, the FOR hubs, are not available for love nor money, or even love AND money! I'm no fan of the axle drive nuts, use a hub puller and engage all four wheel bolts, if possib

Andy, Those can be real stinkers, to remove. Gentle heat, on the aluminum will help expand the stud holes some and help the oil to penetrate. Be careful with heat. The studs, are actually brass bolts,

The originals were a brass alloy, with a VERY thin back. Be very careful with the buffing job, it's quite easy to "buff" all of the way thru them. Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

I've seen both of these cars, they are BEAUTIFUL! Butch Virus-free. www.avast.com

Bud, The "TEE" at the bottom, is the high speed mixture screw. The screw on the top, is the idle mixture screw. The screw on the side (throttle shaft) is the idle speed adjustment. Glad that you've go

Howdy Bud, A couple of different ways. Easiest is, look the carb over well, it should say either Carter or Tillotson on it somewhere. The Tillotson also has a model number stamped into the side. The C

Howdy Bud, Sorry for the delay, life sometimes gets in the way of fun stuff! The spark plug gap is .025, the point gap is .020 to .024, with a dwell setting of 44 degrees. The point gap and changing i