Date   
Re: First start up..

L.E. Hardee
 

Depending on your block year, one of the threaded holes in the rear may not be pipe thread.  If it is a later block, it will be for your temp gauge connection.  May be 5/8 bolt thread????    Two of your pipe thread holes can be used later for you heater connections. 


On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 3:14 PM Steve Perry <sperryfish@...> wrote:
Hello All,
Im about ready to attempt to start the engine. I assume it is OK to use pipe plugs to seal up the two threaded holes in the rear as well as the two in the Left Side? Also, is it OK to Plug the rear threaded hole in the water pump. 
Thanks,
Steve

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Andy Drake
 

I second Dennis's thoughts. The crankcases on these motors are often full of carbon grit and changing the oil often until you know what you have is a great idea.

Dale also has it going -- there is a priming process to get oil to all critical points as things can get really really dry after sitting. Clean the pump screen and prime the system so the oil pressure is at least measurable at idle (sometimes it isn't).

Two thumbs up!

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

Hey Guys!  WOW I just got home from a VW show today to see all these wonderful messages!  Thanks a bunch!  I have been a member on the list here for the past year and always reading...I too was surprised I got no response from my initial post, everyone on here is ALWAYS so helpful!  But musta just been a fluke...thanks for all the helpful hints and offers.  I am gonna sit down tonight after a late dinner and read over em all.

I have a couple days free this week I am gonna get out to the crosley (stored at buddies) and see if I can at least get her to fire-start do some preliminary investigating.  I do have the two books manuals available online-eBay as well as new correct 6V battery read to go.

..will update!
Thanks!
T

My engine....

Re: June Crosley of the Month

parkhunter@...
 

Sweet pix, Jim. Looking at that list of owners, the CAC grew from strong roots.

Park 

Re: First start up..

parkhunter@...
 

The coil does not need to be mounted to the engine. On this site, under Files / Wiring Diagrams, is a simple diagram I made with just the connections needed to run an engine on a test stand. The biggest thing that people forget is making sure that everything that normally gets grounded through the chassis is grounded somehow. 

Blessings,

Park

Re: First start up..

A50CROSLEYTRK@...
 

Yes one of the hole right rear of the block is 5/8  18 thread BUT has a seat in the bottom to seal temp. bulb.
      bye       Robert

In a message dated 6/2/2019 3:29:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, hftsales@... writes:

Depending on your block year, one of the threaded holes in the rear may not be pipe thread.  If it is a later block, it will be for your temp gauge connection.  May be 5/8 bolt thread????    Two of your pipe thread holes can be used later for you heater connections.

On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 3:14 PM Steve Perry <sperryfish@...> wrote:
Hello All,
Im about ready to attempt to start the engine. I assume it is OK to use pipe plugs to seal up the two threaded holes in the rear as well as the two in the Left Side? Also, is it OK to Plug the rear threaded hole in the water pump. 
Thanks,
Steve

 


Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

crosleyshortsport
 

Todd, Remember that unlike the VW, the Crosley is positive ground.  


On Sun, Jun 2, 2019, 8:00 PM Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hey Guys!  WOW I just got home from a VW show today to see all these wonderful messages!  Thanks a bunch!  I have been a member on the list here for the past year and always reading...I too was surprised I got no response from my initial post, everyone on here is ALWAYS so helpful!  But musta just been a fluke...thanks for all the helpful hints and offers.  I am gonna sit down tonight after a late dinner and read over em all.

I have a couple days free this week I am gonna get out to the crosley (stored at buddies) and see if I can at least get her to fire-start do some preliminary investigating.  I do have the two books manuals available online-eBay as well as new correct 6V battery read to go.

..will update!
Thanks!
T

My engine....

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

OH it is!  Thanks for the info on that it had not even crossed my mind to check for that!

See these are the little things I need to know...simple Crosley 101 things that I could probably soak up learn in one or two afternoons with a long time collector, expert.  Each car, model and make has so many simple little facts and tricks you need to know.

T

On Monday, June 3, 2019, 7:14:34 AM EDT, crosleyshortsport <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:


Todd, Remember that unlike the VW, the Crosley is positive ground.  

On Sun, Jun 2, 2019, 8:00 PM Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hey Guys!  WOW I just got home from a VW show today to see all these wonderful messages!  Thanks a bunch!  I have been a member on the list here for the past year and always reading...I too was surprised I got no response from my initial post, everyone on here is ALWAYS so helpful!  But musta just been a fluke...thanks for all the helpful hints and offers.  I am gonna sit down tonight after a late dinner and read over em all.

I have a couple days free this week I am gonna get out to the crosley (stored at buddies) and see if I can at least get her to fire-start do some preliminary investigating.  I do have the two books manuals available online-eBay as well as new correct 6V battery read to go.

..will update!
Thanks!
T

My engine....

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

Thanks Dave, going to head out there a bit today.

1- going to check for leak location as you mentioned
2-tires...all I seem to find is trailer tires.  Is there a place-link to actual road-driving tires in this size for Crosleys?  My tires are old and beat down but I think I could drive on em around the fairgrounds if I really needed too for now.


On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 6:37:23 AM EDT, Spock Arnold via Groups.Io <tmkldwwj@...> wrote:


Todd, I am sure response was low due to everyone else trying to do the same last minute prep to get to Nationals.  Personally, I will be picking up my Hotshot that I haven't seen in over a year on the way so I'll be working on it there also.  As to your questions. 
1.unless your tank leaks like a sieve, I'd recommend a clean and reseal. 
2.fuel lines should be flushed and if leaking replaced. 
3.4.50 -12s will work.  Trailer tires work, but if you are going to do a lot of driving, I would buy reg street tires.
4.it is rare to see side seals  leaking.  I'd suggest you fill the system and look for another source of the leak. If you do decide to replace them, Edward's has them.
5. I'd leave the main seals alone unless leaking badly.  
Dave 
On Jun 1, 2019 10:15 PM, "Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io" <oldvw@...> wrote:
Well since I am have got ZERO response I guess I am on my own with trying to get this running by Nationals.  I have been going there for the past decade, usually in my old `66 VW pick up truck and this would be my first year in an actual Crosley if I can get it running.

So I will try to go this route instead.  I used to run a resto shop so the work is not a problem, just the time and knowledge on what to concentrate on to get her going for the show.

So the car ran and drove about a decade ago then parked. 

-So I would plan on pulling the gas tank, cleaning and reseal (are these usually savable or should I replace?  If so from where do I buy) 
-new fuel lines and probably rebuild the carb if need be.
-It needs tires, I am guessing 4.50-12s what you use trailer tires?
-It was holding water when I got it but after sitting the past year I know see coolant around the edge lip of crankcase and the radiator empty.  So I am guessing those two side covers have lost seal and leaked...someone-place sell the gaskets sets for these?
-should I fool with the main seals on trans and engine or leave as if for now? 

My main priority is just getting this up and running driving to buzz around the fairgrounds at Nationals....nothing more.  I recall one year some guys helping fix up someones car as a fund thing.  How you sign up for that...!  LOL

Thanks
Todd
Toledo



On Monday, May 27, 2019, 1:53:35 PM EDT, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:


Hi Guys, I picked up my first Crosley last summer after nationals.  It is a `48 wagon, ran 10 years ago but was parked in a garage and has been sitting.  I am sure it is going to need gas tank restored, carb, fuel lines, tires the usual gone thru. Not sure I am going to have the time to do it and have it running before Nationals which was my goal. 

Does anybody know of a member or collector in the Toledo/Wauseon area that does work on the side and could maybe help me out? 

Thanks
Todd
419 705 3366
oldvw@...

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

Hi Butch, what is your email or phone #  you can PMail me at oldvw@... if you like.  Phone is 419 705 3366.  I didn't see yours on this message...

Thanks!
T

On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 9:01:29 AM EDT, Butch via Groups.Io <butch46988@...> wrote:


Hello Todd,

I've been a bit reluctant to respond, due to time constraints, but If you could get it here quickly, I'm pretty sure that we can get it running and probably stopping, in time for the National meet at Wauseon.

We are about 3 or 4 hours away from Toledo.

I have a Nephew, that's just aching, for me to get another Crosley into the shop, so he can work and learn more on them.

If you are brand new to Crosley, you might not know me, but most of the old timers, know me fairly well.

If your interested, drop me an Email.

Butch

On 6/2/2019 12:16 AM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
Not a bad idea with the gas can-tank!

My main concern was the coolant leaks my guess it is those side covers.?? Are they an easy re-seal or do you have to remove all the intake and xhaust manifolds to get at the one.

Thanks

On Saturday, June 1, 2019, 10:51:26 PM EDT, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:


Since Jeff doesn't know how to use links, here is a link to suppliers of parts, Service, Edwards and Yankee are the big ones.

If your primary goal is to drive around the fairgrounds, you may want to mount a temporary tank under the hood that hold a half gallon of gas and just keep an eye on the level. If you mount higher than the carb you can even eliminate the fuel pump if it is bad.

Jim...

On Jun 1, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:

Well since I am have got ZERO response I guess I am on my own with trying to get this running by Nationals.?? I have been going there for the past decade, usually in my old `66 VW pick up truck and this would be my first year in an actual Crosley if I can get it running.

So I will try to go this route instead.?? I used to run a resto shop so the work is not a problem, just the time and knowledge on what to concentrate on to get her going for the show.

So the car ran and drove about a decade ago then parked.??

-So I would plan on pulling the gas tank, cleaning and reseal (are these usually savable or should I replace??? If so from where do I buy)??
-new fuel lines and probably rebuild the carb if need be.
-It needs tires, I am guessing 4.50-12s what you use trailer tires?
-It was holding water when I got it but after sitting the past year I know see coolant around the edge lip of crankcase and the radiator empty.?? So I am guessing those two side covers have lost seal and leaked...someone-place sell the gaskets sets for these?
-should I fool with the main seals on trans and engine or leave as if for now???

My main priority is just getting this up and running driving to buzz around the fairgrounds at Nationals....nothing more.?? I recall one year some guys helping fix up someones car as a fund thing.?? How you sign up for that...!?? LOL

Thanks
Todd
Toledo



On Monday, May 27, 2019, 1:53:35 PM EDT, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:


Hi Guys, I picked up my first Crosley last summer after nationals.?? It is a `48 wagon, ran 10 years ago but was parked in a garage and has been sitting.?? I am sure it is going to need gas tank restored, carb, fuel lines, tires the usual gone thru. Not sure I am going to have the time to do it and have it running before Nationals which was my goal.??

Does anybody know of a member or collector in the Toledo/Wauseon area that does work on the side and could maybe help me out???

Thanks
Todd
419 705 3366
oldvw@...
<IMG_0274 (Medium).JPG>



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Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

Good info Dave THANKS!

On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:31:50 AM EDT, David Reina via Groups.Io <reinadesigns@...> wrote:


Hi Todd,
Yes to everything others have already written.   Here are a couple more items that occur to me. 
1) order a workshop manual ASAP from one of the venders. 
2) when cleaning the carburetor you must first unscrew and removed the long emulsion tube from the top of the Tillottson carburetor.   This thin brass tube is a couple of inches long and goes diagonally through the carb and will get bent and ruined if it’s not removed before the top comes off the carb.  (You may have a Carter carb in which case the above warning doesn’t apply)
3) grease the kingpins, tie rod ends, and drag link that comes off the steering box. Grease the torque tube joint and the bearing in the middle of the torque tube.   Grease the outer bearings on the back axle. Not too much- only two shots per side. I think the water pump has a grease fitting. That should really take water pump grease.  
4)clean the ignition points. Cut some 1/4” wide strips from a white index card paper. Soak a strip with acetone or gas (not nail polish remover acetone. It has too much other junk in it. ) and pull the wet paper through the closed points. Do it a couple of times. This will usually clean the points enough that they will work ok.   Coat the points can with a very light coat of grease. 
5)the condenser is on the outside of the Crosley distributed and should be held there with a very short screw. Sometimes that short screw has been replaced by a longer one which goes too far into the distributed body and which then hangs up the centrifugal weights causing mysterious problems. 
6)transmission takes 90 to 140 weight gear oil filled to the bottom of the side filler plug threads. Some people like the heavier gear oil as it can help in shifting the non synchronized transmission. The rear axle takes 90 weight gear oil to to the bottom of the filler plug threads. 
7) check the brake fluid. Just kidding!!!  You should mechanical brakes. 
8) the water pump will probably leak when running. There may be a packing nut on the shaft end of the pump which can be tightened. 
Regards,
Dave


On Jun 2, 2019, at 9:48 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:

I've not really had too many leaks from the water jacket covers, even from motors that have sat for decades. If you ever take them off, you'll see that crud tends to accumulate around the edges and crust over. 

But that said, everything else about the cooling system needs to probably be freshened up, including doing a flush. The water pump may have seized and the hose going from the block to the pump dry rotted (doesn't help they also bake from their location). The whole process to overhaul the cooling system is only a couple hours once you have the parts. Rebuilding the pump isn't that much longer (or just get a rebuilt one) for the peace of mind.

In my case, I went through my Roundside with an eye towards getting everything freed up and belts / hoses redone, only to find it leaked oil from like 3 different places once I got it going after sitting for so long (15+ years). You probably know this, but heat and circulation will loosen everything up, so it's hard to predict just exactly where leaks will happen. When I did an oil change, it was basically black goo that I let drain overnight, so I did another change about 250 miles later and it looked way better.

The good news about all this is, Crosleys are easy to work on and it's amazing what you can get done in only a short time. The vendors can assemble you a kit and will have more insight than what's spelled out even in the manual. 

Good luck and see you at the Nationals!

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Butch
 

Todd,

The best one to use is: butch46988@....

Butch

On 6/3/2019 10:53 AM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
Hi Butch, what is your email or phone #?? you can PMail me at oldvw@... if you like.?? Phone is 419 705 3366.?? I didn't see yours on this message...

Thanks!
T

On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 9:01:29 AM EDT, Butch via Groups.Io <butch46988@...> wrote:


Hello Todd,

I've been a bit reluctant to respond, due to time constraints, but If you could get it here quickly, I'm pretty sure that we can get it running and probably stopping, in time for the National meet at Wauseon.

We are about 3 or 4 hours away from Toledo.

I have a Nephew, that's just aching, for me to get another Crosley into the shop, so he can work and learn more on them.

If you are brand new to Crosley, you might not know me, but most of the old timers, know me fairly well.

If your interested, drop me an Email.

Butch

On 6/2/2019 12:16 AM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
Not a bad idea with the gas can-tank!

My main concern was the coolant leaks my guess it is those side covers.?? Are they an easy re-seal or do you have to remove all the intake and xhaust manifolds to get at the one.

Thanks


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Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Ron D.
 

Todd,
  I bought a set of 5 - 145/80-12 all season radials from Amazon last fall for $22.50 each, with free prime shipping. I just checked, and those are not available anymore. But they do have 155/80-12 multi mile all season radials for $48.76 with free shipping

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Jim Bollman
 

If you decide your tires are good enough for running around the fairgrounds, our part supplier Tony Smith in Angola IN sells tires at the show every year and if you call him will give you some advice and can deliver tires to the show for you. He brings a fair number but pre order will assure you he has what you need. He is on the PartSupplier list (260-665-2168) I linked in. Angola isn't that far away from you if you don't want to wait or see your options, he has several sizes/styles to chose from.


On Jun 1, 2019, at 10:51 PM, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:

Since Jeff doesn't know how to use links, here is a link to suppliers of parts, Service, Edwards and Yankee are the big ones.

If your primary goal is to drive around the fairgrounds, you may want to mount a temporary tank under the hood that hold a half gallon of gas and just keep an eye on the level. If you mount higher than the carb you can even eliminate the fuel pump if it is bad.

Jim...

On Jun 1, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:

Well since I am have got ZERO response I guess I am on my own with trying to get this running by Nationals.  I have been going there for the past decade, usually in my old `66 VW pick up truck and this would be my first year in an actual Crosley if I can get it running.

So I will try to go this route instead.  I used to run a resto shop so the work is not a problem, just the time and knowledge on what to concentrate on to get her going for the show.

So the car ran and drove about a decade ago then parked. 

-So I would plan on pulling the gas tank, cleaning and reseal (are these usually savable or should I replace?  If so from where do I buy) 
-new fuel lines and probably rebuild the carb if need be.
-It needs tires, I am guessing 4.50-12s what you use trailer tires?
-It was holding water when I got it but after sitting the past year I know see coolant around the edge lip of crankcase and the radiator empty.  So I am guessing those two side covers have lost seal and leaked...someone-place sell the gaskets sets for these?
-should I fool with the main seals on trans and engine or leave as if for now? 

My main priority is just getting this up and running driving to buzz around the fairgrounds at Nationals....nothing more.  I recall one year some guys helping fix up someones car as a fund thing.  How you sign up for that...!  LOL

Thanks
Todd
Toledo



On Monday, May 27, 2019, 1:53:35 PM EDT, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:


Hi Guys, I picked up my first Crosley last summer after nationals.  It is a `48 wagon, ran 10 years ago but was parked in a garage and has been sitting.  I am sure it is going to need gas tank restored, carb, fuel lines, tires the usual gone thru. Not sure I am going to have the time to do it and have it running before Nationals which was my goal. 

Does anybody know of a member or collector in the Toledo/Wauseon area that does work on the side and could maybe help me out? 

Thanks
Todd
419 705 3366
oldvw@...
<IMG_0274 (Medium).JPG>


Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.  As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.  So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.  Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.  There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.  It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.  Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.  It is a Tilitson.  So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb?  the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.  I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.  I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.  Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below?  Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.  Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today. 
Thanks for help
Todd

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

crosleyshortsport
 

Remove the valve cover to get the other nut off the carb, and yes grind a wrench you do not care about. Put on a mechanical fuel pump from one of our fine suppliers. You should be able to clean up the distributor without removing it. If you decide to remove it, pull the pan, and pull the cog off the bottom.


On Tue, Jun 4, 2019, 6:12 PM Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.  As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.  So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.  Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.  There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.  It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.  Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.  It is a Tilitson.  So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb?  the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.  I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.  I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.  Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below?  Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.  Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today. 
Thanks for help
Todd

Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Butch
 

Todd,

On the carb, grind a wrench down AND remove the cam/valve cover.

On the distributor, you must FIRST remove the oil pan and take the gear off of the distributor, before it can be removed from the crankcase. The distributor drive gear will NOT pass thru the crankcase hole.

Personally, I would not disturb the oil pan yet. Most likely you have rope seals, and they are a BEAR to install, in the car, and have them not leak.

If you take the carb off, modified screwdrivers are required, to disassemble it without damage to the jets and carb body.

Have you gotten your service manual yet. If not, the tow projects that you are attempting, are leading you into some dangerous territory.

Butch

On 6/4/2019 6:12 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.?? As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.?? So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.?? Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.?? There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.?? It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.?? Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.?? It is a Tilitson.?? So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb??? the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.?? I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.?? I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.?? Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below??? Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.?? Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today.??
Thanks for help
Todd


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Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

Great guys!  Thanks for the info...I was dead on right with my assumptions what to-not to do.

-Yes I have both manuals bought from fellow on eBay.  One is a restoration guide and other looks to be a copy of factory workshop manual.

-I am an ASE Certified Mechanic, ran a restoration shop about 20 years.  My main forte was German cars.  Was burned out, sold the shop and most everything about 5 years ago but now getting back into doing some stuff for MYSELF.  So I have the skills but as you know with every new model, make you venture into there is tricks, tips, dos and don'ts you MUST learn.  I have ZERO of that knowledge on Crosleys but will learn it all in a very short time.

That is what is so great about the internet and these type forums AND having a great club base for the model and make.  The VW groups I am in are very friendly and THAT is what I also liked bout the Crosley group too!  The atmosphere and camaraderie at all the National meets I attended was wonderful.  Very nice, super helpful folks...and the cars are awesome too!

Ok so going to be venturing forward here now that I have a general idea of things.  I am going to order carb kit, tune up parts, and try and maybe some tires on the way asap.  I will keep updating as I go along.  I have a couple days free here but then back to work I still need to get a hold of Butch too...see what he thinks. 

Oh and on the parts, I recall two major vendors I think one was Yankee and the other...?  One was run by one fellow and I spoke with him on the phone..REAL nice guy seemed to have most everything.  Can't recall his name and business....was THAT Yankee and the other Service maybe?

Thanks
T

Thanks! 



On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 7:27:12 PM EDT, Butch via Groups.Io <butch46988@...> wrote:


Todd,

On the carb, grind a wrench down AND remove the cam/valve cover.

On the distributor, you must FIRST remove the oil pan and take the gear off of the distributor, before it can be removed from the crankcase. The distributor drive gear will NOT pass thru the crankcase hole.

Personally, I would not disturb the oil pan yet. Most likely you have rope seals, and they are a BEAR to install, in the car, and have them not leak.

If you take the carb off, modified screwdrivers are required, to disassemble it without damage to the jets and carb body.

Have you gotten your service manual yet. If not, the tow projects that you are attempting, are leading you into some dangerous territory.

Butch

On 6/4/2019 6:12 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.?? As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.?? So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.?? Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.?? There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.?? It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.?? Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.?? It is a Tilitson.?? So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb??? the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.?? I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.?? I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.?? Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below??? Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.?? Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today.??
Thanks for help
Todd



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Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Butch
 

Todd,

There are 3 "heavy hitters" in the Crosley parts business. The oldest & largest (and not because I used to own it) is Service Motors, now in Nevada. Second would be Dave Edwards, in Mansfield Ohio. Third would be Yankee Crosley Parts, Ted, in Connecticut.

It's good that you have an automotive/mechanical background, but as you said, all have their quirks and peculiarities, and Crosley has their share PLUS!

Butch

On 6/4/2019 8:00 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
Great guys!?? Thanks for the info...I was dead on right with my assumptions what to-not to do.

-Yes I have both manuals bought from fellow on eBay.?? One is a restoration guide and other looks to be a copy of factory workshop manual.

-I am an ASE Certified Mechanic, ran a restoration shop about 20 years.?? My main forte was German cars.?? Was burned out, sold the shop and most everything about 5 years ago but now getting back into doing some stuff for MYSELF.?? So I have the skills but as you know with every new model, make you venture into there is tricks, tips, dos and don'ts you MUST learn.?? I have ZERO of that knowledge on Crosleys but will learn it all in a very short time.

That is what is so great about the internet and these type forums AND having a great club base for the model and make.?? The VW groups I am in are very friendly and THAT is what I also liked bout the Crosley group too!?? The atmosphere and camaraderie at all the National meets I attended was wonderful.?? Very nice, super helpful folks...and the cars are awesome too!

Ok so going to be venturing forward here now that I have a general idea of things?? I am going to order carb kit, tune up parts, and try and maybe some tires on the way asap.?? I will keep updating as I go along.?? I have a couple days free here but then back to work I still need to get a hold of Butch too...see what he thinks.??

Oh and on the parts, I recall two major vendors I think one was Yankee and the other...??? One was run by one fellow and I spoke with him on the phone..REAL nice guy seemed to have most everything.?? Can't recall his name and business....was THAT Yankee and the other Service maybe?

Thanks
T

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Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Jim Bollman
 

Another possibility is do what you can trying not to make anything worse and contact Ted at Yankee. He opens a Crosley garage at the Nationals usually on the Saturday or Sunday before the Nationals and runs it off an on through the week, fixing members Crosleys. Call/eMail him and check if he is planning on doing that again this year and see if you can get on the list to finish what you can get fixed. Getting in line early helps. He has a group of Crosley mechanics that help him during the week.

On Jun 4, 2019, at 6:12 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:

So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.  As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.  So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.  Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.  There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.  It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.  Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.  It is a Tilitson.  So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb?  the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.  I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.  I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.  Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below?  Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.  Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today. 
Thanks for help
Todd