Date   
Re: Converting 6" mechanical brakes to hydraulic (not going to 9" but keeping the 6" drums)

Tim Hamblen
 

While talking brakes, some may find this interesting. The Guppy has 4x4 Studebaker brakes and drums on the back, bolted to a Crosley rear end.So if you had an old Stude sitting around................

Re: Converting 6" mechanical brakes to hydraulic (not going to 9" but keeping the 6" drums)

Jim Bollman
 

Year ago I had CD wagon with Stude brakes, I think all 4 wheels. I bought it and flipped it when I was 18. Never did a think to it but save it from a junk yard and haul it home. Don't remember the big bucks I made but I would guess maybe $25-50.

Jim...

On Aug 30, 2018, at 9:31 PM, Tim Hamblen via Groups.Io <flinttim@...> wrote:

While talking brakes, some may find this interesting. The Guppy has 4x4 Studebaker brakes and drums on the back, bolted to a Crosley rear end.So if you had an old Stude sitting around................

September Crosley of the Month

Jim Bollman
 

Here is the latest CotM
http://crosleyautoclub.com/

Enjoy

Jim...

Re: September Crosley of the Month

crosleyshortsport
 

Jim,  In regards to the Crosley of the month,  I believe the fellow in the picture may be Paul Weimer, of Sugar Grove, Illinois. The following year, I bought his 1950 FarmOroad out of the back of his red Chevy van.


On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 10:55 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
Here is the latest CotM
http://crosleyautoclub.com/

Enjoy

Jim...

Replacing cardboards

Andy Drake
 

My roundside pickup has no cardboards installed around the radiator. Sure, I could just hack an old box apart and jam something in there (and the prior owner probably would have), but I picked up a set of premade correct ones at the Nationals this year. Can anyone give a rundown on the installation process? Looked in the manual and I'm not seeing where the whole thing is described. 

Thanks!

Speedometer Repair

Andy Drake
 

Anyone have recommendations for (reliable) shops to handle speedometer overhaul? I have both a round speedometer and a square one that make a shrieking sound when you drive them. I believe it's because the whole mechanism has dried out or something is sticking -- both still work sorta of (needle bounce) and it sure would be nice to be able to tell how fast I'm going (within +/- 50% or so).

Thanks!

Re: Speedometer Repair

nobadrivers
 

Are you sure the issue isn't caused by the cable?  Can you drive the speedometer with an electric drill to eliminate the cable and see if the speedometer still makes the noise?  Just a thought.  Would hate to see you go through the expense of a speedometer tune up only to find out it's the cable giving you the problem. 

Re: Speedometer Repair

dale@servicemotors.net
 

Yes service motors does them.  866-449-0029. 


On Sep 1, 2018, at 7:16 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:

Anyone have recommendations for (reliable) shops to handle speedometer overhaul? I have both a round speedometer and a square one that make a shrieking sound when you drive them. I believe it's because the whole mechanism has dried out or something is sticking -- both still work sorta of (needle bounce) and it sure would be nice to be able to tell how fast I'm going (within +/- 50% or so).

Thanks!

Re: Speedometer Repair

nobadrivers
 

Dale, good to know!  Just Crosley vehicles or other vintage vehicles too?

Re: Speedometer Repair

Jim Bollman
 

After checking if it really is the speedometer head or the cable, you will know what to try next. If it is the cable lubricate and make sure there are no sharp turns in the cable, if it is the head you might try a "small amount" light oil in around the drive opening and spin the drive. DO NOT use WD-40, it will eventually gum it up with time.

Jim...

On Sep 1, 2018, at 10:16 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:

Anyone have recommendations for (reliable) shops to handle speedometer overhaul? I have both a round speedometer and a square one that make a shrieking sound when you drive them. I believe it's because the whole mechanism has dried out or something is sticking -- both still work sorta of (needle bounce) and it sure would be nice to be able to tell how fast I'm going (within +/- 50% or so).

Thanks!

Re: Speedometer Repair

L.E. Hardee
 

My suggestion would be to unhook the speedo cable from the speedometer and spray the speedometer input with penetrating oil.  The rotating shaft sounds dry to me.  After you spray, rotate the input by hand, then spray a little more.  I would also lube the cable while I had it disconnected.  I have always used vasoline petroleum jelly on the bottom 1/3 of the inner cable only.  It will ride up the rest of the cable as you drive.   If you over lube the top of the cable, the grease can leak out at the speedo head and drip on your legs. 

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 10:39 AM, nobadrivers <scanner2@...> wrote:
Are you sure the issue isn't caused by the cable?  Can you drive the speedometer with an electric drill to eliminate the cable and see if the speedometer still makes the noise?  Just a thought.  Would hate to see you go through the expense of a speedometer tune up only to find out it's the cable giving you the problem. 


Re: Speedometer Repair

nobadrivers
 

Forgot to mention in my post if you do use an electric drill to spin the speedometer use a variable speed drill on the lowest speed.  Tri-Flo Bike Cable Lube works great on the cable too.

Re: Speedometer Repair

Spock Arnold
 

Andy, give me a call when you get a chance.   
Dave Anspach 

On Sep 1, 2018 10:16 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for (reliable) shops to handle speedometer overhaul? I have both a round speedometer and a square one that make a shrieking sound when you drive them. I believe it's because the whole mechanism has dried out or something is sticking -- both still work sorta of (needle bounce) and it sure would be nice to be able to tell how fast I'm going (within +/- 50% or so).

Thanks!

Re: Speedometer Repair

crosleyshortsport
 

Andy,  When you have "bounce" it usually means the cable is ready to break. A new cable will most likely fix the issue. Tri-flow does work well, or lightweight sewing machine oil from Jo-Ann fabrics works well also. Get the zoom spout, easy to reach all areas and control amount needed.
Jeffrey

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018, 1:11 PM Spock Arnold via Groups.Io <tmkldwwj=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Andy, give me a call when you get a chance.   
Dave Anspach 

On Sep 1, 2018 10:16 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:
Anyone have recommendations for (reliable) shops to handle speedometer overhaul? I have both a round speedometer and a square one that make a shrieking sound when you drive them. I believe it's because the whole mechanism has dried out or something is sticking -- both still work sorta of (needle bounce) and it sure would be nice to be able to tell how fast I'm going (within +/- 50% or so).

Thanks!

Re: Replacing cardboards

crosleyshortsport
 

Andy, just pull both headlight buckets and install cardboards. I used small stainless screws and the flat stay nuts to secure them. Only takes three across the top of each cardboard, the headlight buckets hold them in, and they sit behind the radiator.


On Sat, Sep 1, 2018, 10:09 AM Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:
My roundside pickup has no cardboards installed around the radiator. Sure, I could just hack an old box apart and jam something in there (and the prior owner probably would have), but I picked up a set of premade correct ones at the Nationals this year. Can anyone give a rundown on the installation process? Looked in the manual and I'm not seeing where the whole thing is described. 

Thanks!

Re: Replacing cardboards

L.E. Hardee
 

Am I remembering correctly that the factory cardboards were held on by black upholstery buttons similar to that used on the interior cardboard panels?  The ones that had 2 spring wires retaining clips.

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 4:05 PM, crosleyshortsport <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:
Andy, just pull both headlight buckets and install cardboards. I used small stainless screws and the flat stay nuts to secure them. Only takes three across the top of each cardboard, the headlight buckets hold them in, and they sit behind the radiator.

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018, 10:09 AM Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:
My roundside pickup has no cardboards installed around the radiator. Sure, I could just hack an old box apart and jam something in there (and the prior owner probably would have), but I picked up a set of premade correct ones at the Nationals this year. Can anyone give a rundown on the installation process? Looked in the manual and I'm not seeing where the whole thing is described. 

Thanks!


Re: Speedometer Repair

Robert Kirk
 

Graphite NOT oil on gauge cables and all locks.  Petroleum bases attract dirt.  Ditto WD40 and other kerosene bases which dry out and turn to paraffin.

Engine won't start

Joe Lofink
 

Help! I'm restoring a tractor that has a Crosley CIBA engine that I bought used to replace the original Cobra engine. Test ran it when I first bought then cleaned it up for the tractor. This was a couple of years ago. Back on the project now and tried to start the engine and she will not even pop most of the time, even when using starting fluid. I installed new hoses, gaskets, points, condenser, distributor cap, 6 volt coil, wires and plugs. Timing light shows that I have it set at 12 degrees BTDC, points are set at .020 and plugs at .025. While cranking coil wire shows a nice blue spark when I hold it to the block. Check compression and all cylinders are right around 80 psi. Any suggestions on what to try next. 

Re: Engine won't start

Mike
 

Did you Check for spark at the spark plugs ? 


On Sep 1, 2018, at 5:08 PM, Joe Lofink via Groups.Io <lofinjos@...> wrote:

Help! I'm restoring a tractor that has a Crosley CIBA engine that I bought used to replace the original Cobra engine. Test ran it when I first bought then cleaned it up for the tractor. This was a couple of years ago. Back on the project now and tried to start the engine and she will not even pop most of the time, even when using starting fluid. I installed new hoses, gaskets, points, condenser, distributor cap, 6 volt coil, wires and plugs. Timing light shows that I have it set at 12 degrees BTDC, points are set at .020 and plugs at .025. While cranking coil wire shows a nice blue spark when I hold it to the block. Check compression and all cylinders are right around 80 psi. Any suggestions on what to try next. 

Re: Engine won't start

L.E. Hardee
 

80psi seems low.  I would think it would take over 100psi to fire up.   Have you tried putting about a tablespoon or so of Automatic Trans fluid down each plug hole, spin it over a few times and run your compression check again.  The compression should  come up to 110 or more .   Sometimes the cylinder walls dry out while engine is sitting up. 


On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 5:08 PM, Joe Lofink via Groups.Io <lofinjos@...> wrote:
Help! I'm restoring a tractor that has a Crosley CIBA engine that I bought used to replace the original Cobra engine. Test ran it when I first bought then cleaned it up for the tractor. This was a couple of years ago. Back on the project now and tried to start the engine and she will not even pop most of the time, even when using starting fluid. I installed new hoses, gaskets, points, condenser, distributor cap, 6 volt coil, wires and plugs. Timing light shows that I have it set at 12 degrees BTDC, points are set at .020 and plugs at .025. While cranking coil wire shows a nice blue spark when I hold it to the block. Check compression and all cylinders are right around 80 psi. Any suggestions on what to try next.