Date   
General information

Joe Brownsberger
 

Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?

Re: General information

Spock Arnold
 

Wiring diagram is in the service manual.  Correct parts are in the parts catalogue. Both are available from parts suppliers

On Jun 19, 2018 11:40 AM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:
Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?

Re: General information

Jim Bollman
 

I'll try to give you some basics. Here is a link to the wiring diagrams.

You need to have some type of engine support to start the engine out of the car. If you don't have a radiator attached don't let it run long if it starts.

When you say ready to run has its been rebuilt or repaired in anyway to start? If it has been setting for a long time at the bare minimum you will need to clean and set the points. Probably should drain the oil and put in fresh. Check the plugs to be sure they are clean and gaped properly.

6V positive ground. 
Firing order is  1,3,4,2
Plug Gap is .028
Pont Gap -s .020-.022
Distributor Rotates CounterClockwise

You might want to do some searches in the old messages on the Gang to get a feel for some the problems you may run into.

The 431SA Carter is not what came from the factory, the Carter would be an 870S or 934S.

Jim...

On Jun 19, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?

Re: General information

Joe Brownsberger
 

It's been sitting for 3 years not running, it turns by hand and I've just lubed the main bearings with marvel mystery oil. I have no idea what motor oil I'm supposed to use in the engine so I thought I'd start with that while I clean this engine up a bit and collect the things I need to start it. Thanks for the information, I will have to surf the old posts. This honestly my second time using groups.io and this is all I know how to do at the moment. 

Thanks,
Joe.

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 2:13 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
I'll try to give you some basics. Here is a link to the wiring diagrams.

You need to have some type of engine support to start the engine out of the car. If you don't have a radiator attached don't let it run long if it starts.

When you say ready to run has its been rebuilt or repaired in anyway to start? If it has been setting for a long time at the bare minimum you will need to clean and set the points. Probably should drain the oil and put in fresh. Check the plugs to be sure they are clean and gaped properly.

6V positive ground. 
Firing order is  1,3,4,2
Plug Gap is .028
Pont Gap -s .020-.022
Distributor Rotates CounterClockwise

You might want to do some searches in the old messages on the Gang to get a feel for some the problems you may run into.

The 431SA Carter is not what came from the factory, the Carter would be an 870S or 934S.

Jim...

On Jun 19, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?

Re: General information

Jim Bollman
 

What oil to use will get you lots of answers. If the engine is clean inside and not slugged up, a good detergent oil is my recommendation. I use Valvoline 20W-50 Racing Oil. It doesn't seem to leak out as fast and is suppose to have more zinc which is good for older engines. Been using it for many years.

Jim...


On Jun 19, 2018, at 3:34 PM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

It's been sitting for 3 years not running, it turns by hand and I've just lubed the main bearings with marvel mystery oil. I have no idea what motor oil I'm supposed to use in the engine so I thought I'd start with that while I clean this engine up a bit and collect the things I need to start it. Thanks for the information, I will have to surf the old posts. This honestly my second time using groups.io and this is all I know how to do at the moment. 

Thanks,
Joe.

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 2:13 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
I'll try to give you some basics. Here is a link to the wiring diagrams.

You need to have some type of engine support to start the engine out of the car. If you don't have a radiator attached don't let it run long if it starts.

When you say ready to run has its been rebuilt or repaired in anyway to start? If it has been setting for a long time at the bare minimum you will need to clean and set the points. Probably should drain the oil and put in fresh. Check the plugs to be sure they are clean and gaped properly.

6V positive ground. 
Firing order is  1,3,4,2
Plug Gap is .028
Pont Gap -s .020-.022
Distributor Rotates CounterClockwise

You might want to do some searches in the old messages on the Gang to get a feel for some the problems you may run into.

The 431SA Carter is not what came from the factory, the Carter would be an 870S or 934S.

Jim...

On Jun 19, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?




Re: General information

crosleyshortsport
 

Joe,  Always willing to help with any questions. If you have not already, I suggest joining the Crosley Automobile Club. One of the benefits is the Crosley quarterly, full of information for the Crosley enthusiest. Service Motors, Yankee Crosley Parts, and Dave Edwards Crosley parts are also a wealth of help and information. We will get you running on all four cylinders !


On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 3:40 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
What oil to use will get you lots of answers. If the engine is clean inside and not slugged up, a good detergent oil is my recommendation. I use Valvoline 20W-50 Racing Oil. It doesn't seem to leak out as fast and is suppose to have more zinc which is good for older engines. Been using it for many years.

Jim...


On Jun 19, 2018, at 3:34 PM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

It's been sitting for 3 years not running, it turns by hand and I've just lubed the main bearings with marvel mystery oil. I have no idea what motor oil I'm supposed to use in the engine so I thought I'd start with that while I clean this engine up a bit and collect the things I need to start it. Thanks for the information, I will have to surf the old posts. This honestly my second time using groups.io and this is all I know how to do at the moment. 

Thanks,
Joe.

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 2:13 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
I'll try to give you some basics. Here is a link to the wiring diagrams.

You need to have some type of engine support to start the engine out of the car. If you don't have a radiator attached don't let it run long if it starts.

When you say ready to run has its been rebuilt or repaired in anyway to start? If it has been setting for a long time at the bare minimum you will need to clean and set the points. Probably should drain the oil and put in fresh. Check the plugs to be sure they are clean and gaped properly.

6V positive ground. 
Firing order is  1,3,4,2
Plug Gap is .028
Pont Gap -s .020-.022
Distributor Rotates CounterClockwise

You might want to do some searches in the old messages on the Gang to get a feel for some the problems you may run into.

The 431SA Carter is not what came from the factory, the Carter would be an 870S or 934S.

Jim...

On Jun 19, 2018, at 11:40 AM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:

Hi, I have no knowledge of how to wire a crosley engine let alone what I need to make one run. What I do know is its a 6v system and I have complete ready to run engine I just don't have wires and the knowledge to where there go. If this helps I'm trying to start the engine out side of the car. Also what carburetor was put on from the factory, right now I have a carter single barrel, tag ID number 431SA is that a factory carburetor?




Re: General information

parkhunter@...
 

Joe,

Here’s video of my engine running on a test stand...

https://youtu.be/MC1A9-P_fc4

The wiring to start the engine outside the car is pretty simple. If you need a diagram, I can sketch one up. 

Have fun! These are neat little engines. 

Park

Re: car won't run over 35 mph

Tim Hamblen
 

With someone holding the gas pedal down, look into the carb throat. is the butterfly opening all the way ? Just went thru this on the Guppy. You won't notice it lifting the linkage under the hood . Lots of things can go wrong between the foot and the carb. Also did you put a new condenser on the distributor. ? The new condser mounts are thinner than OEM and the screw will jam the advance.

Re: car won't run over 35 mph

Terrance Robinson
 

appreciate all your pointers to us "in trouble"--Terry

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 5:17 PM, Butch via Groups.Io <butch46988@...> wrote:
Paul,

Not to shoot you down, but Crosley valves are supposed to be adjusted COLD.

The first thing to check, is the ignition timing, while you're doing that, also check the distributor advance mechanism. Not super rare to find them stuck.

Butch

Butch

On 6/12/2018 4:41 PM, paul wrote:

Folks,

been out in the garage piddling, thinking.  early in the thread someone mentioned good tune up.  please shoot me down as overthinking but,  is there a chance the valves have been adjusted cold?  would that create enough expansion of the shim pack etc when hot to hold the valves open just a bit?  tight enough to bleed off a bit of compression before the plug fires?  grasping at straws trying to help,  Paul Rinehart













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Crofton Bug

Tom Sodaro
 

Hello all,  live outside of Chicago. I am trying to find someone with a Crofton Bug within a couple of hours. I would like to see your Crofton and take some measurements. Still having problems with the clutch linkage. Thanks Tom Sodaro

Re: Crofton Bug

Steve
 

Tom,

Steve Miller here.  Come see me, I live 2 hours from DeKalb.  3 minutes west of Great America.  My Brawny Bug awaits you.

 

-Steve M.

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tom Sodaro
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 11:52 AM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: [Crosley-Gang] Crofton Bug

 

Hello all,  live outside of Chicago. I am trying to find someone with a Crofton Bug within a couple of hours. I would like to see your Crofton and take some measurements. Still having problems with the clutch linkage. Thanks Tom Sodaro

Re: General information (wiring to start an engine)

parkhunter@...
 

Here's a crude diagram of what's necessary to wire a Crosley engine to start, whether in the car or on a test stand. This is for the original 6-volt POSITIVE GROUND system! This is the bare minimum to start and run the engine; it will not charge the battery or power lights or anything else.

For the ground and power straps (1 & 2 below) you need extremely heavy cables. The originals are about the thickness of a thumb! These are illustrated in black and red pen on the drawing.

For all other wiring, you can use small, light electrical wire. Bell wire works, or 14 or 16-guage automotive wire. In a pinch you can even use lamp cord.  :^)  These are illustrated with blue pen on the drawing.

Some notes:

1) The ground straps are the heavy, woven bare metal cables. The longer one goes from the positive (+) terminal on the battery to one of the bolts holding the starter motor to the bell housing.
... 1a) When the engine is in the car, the shorter one goes from a bell housing bolt to a bolt on the firewall to ground the metal body of the car and anything attached to it.
... 1b) When grounding anything on the car body, you need to scrape away a bit of the paint under the bolt to make metal-to-metal contact. 
... 1c) If the engine isn't in the car, you don't need the short cable BUT you will need to ground the solenoid (see 3b below). 

2) The power to actually crank the starter comes from the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a heavy, insulated cable to a bolt on one side of the solenoid, and then a second heavy cable from a bolt on the other side of the solenoid to the bolt on the side of the starter motor. The solenoid is a heavy-duty electrical switch that connects the power from the battery to the starter when you press the starter button on the dash.

3) The starter button connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to the bolt on the front of the solenoid via another small wire. To complete the circuit, the solenoid must be grounded to the positive (+) terminal of the battery, which can happen two ways:
...3a) When the engine is in the car, through the solenoid's mount to the firewall (see 1a,b above)
...3b) When the engine is on a test stand, run a small wire from one of the solenoid's mounting points to the positive (+) side of the battery.
...3c) If you don't have the original starter button, a "normally open" (N.O.) push button, such as a door-bell button, will work.

4) The ignition switch (key) connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to one of the side terminals on the coil, possibly marked (-). If you don't have the original ignition switch, an on/off toggle switch, such as a household light switch, will work.

5) The other side terminal on the coil, possibly marked (+), connects via a small wire to the terminal nut on the side of the distributor, which is also where the wire from the condenser connects. If you have purchased a new condenser, be careful that the screw you use to attach it to the side of the distributor does not go in too far and contact the mechanism inside the distributor - if this is the case, use a washer as a shim.

6) You need to use the proper style wire to connect the center terminal on the coil to the center terminal on the top of the distributor. And of course, wires from the distributor to the four spark plugs.

--
In operation, you turn on the ignition switch to power the coil and distributor, providing spark to the spark plugs.

When you press the starter button, it temporarily activates the solenoid switch (you should hear it click), which then connects the heavy-duty juice from the battery to the starter and cranks the engine.

When you're done running the engine, be sure to turn off the ignition switch. Otherwise, the battery will run down. To prevent this, on a test stand, I also connected one of the running lights to the same terminal on the ignition switch as the coil. The light must also be grounded to the positive (+) terminal on the battery). The light comes on when the ignition switch is on, reminding you to shut it off when you're done playing. 

Hope this helps!

Park Hunter

Re: General information (wiring to start an engine)

Joe Brownsberger
 

Thank you, this helps out a lot. I have since ordered a service book from service motors. What type of battery do you use? What cold crank amps do I need to look for?


On Wed, Jun 20, 2018, 7:17 PM <parkhunter@...> wrote:
Here's a crude diagram of what's necessary to wire a Crosley engine to start, whether in the car or on a test stand. This is for the original 6-volt POSITIVE GROUND system! This is the bare minimum to start and run the engine; it will not charge the battery or power lights or anything else.

For the ground and power straps (1 & 2 below) you need extremely heavy cables. The originals are about the thickness of a thumb! These are illustrated in black and red pen on the drawing.

For all other wiring, you can use small, light electrical wire. Bell wire works, or 14 or 16-guage automotive wire. In a pinch you can even use lamp cord.  :^)  These are illustrated with blue pen on the drawing.

Some notes:

1) The ground straps are the heavy, woven bare metal cables. The longer one goes from the positive (+) terminal on the battery to one of the bolts holding the starter motor to the bell housing.
... 1a) When the engine is in the car, the shorter one goes from a bell housing bolt to a bolt on the firewall to ground the metal body of the car and anything attached to it.
... 1b) When grounding anything on the car body, you need to scrape away a bit of the paint under the bolt to make metal-to-metal contact. 
... 1c) If the engine isn't in the car, you don't need the short cable BUT you will need to ground the solenoid (see 3b below). 

2) The power to actually crank the starter comes from the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a heavy, insulated cable to a bolt on one side of the solenoid, and then a second heavy cable from a bolt on the other side of the solenoid to the bolt on the side of the starter motor. The solenoid is a heavy-duty electrical switch that connects the power from the battery to the starter when you press the starter button on the dash.

3) The starter button connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to the bolt on the front of the solenoid via another small wire. To complete the circuit, the solenoid must be grounded to the positive (+) terminal of the battery, which can happen two ways:
...3a) When the engine is in the car, through the solenoid's mount to the firewall (see 1a,b above)
...3b) When the engine is on a test stand, run a small wire from one of the solenoid's mounting points to the positive (+) side of the battery.
...3c) If you don't have the original starter button, a "normally open" (N.O.) push button, such as a door-bell button, will work.

4) The ignition switch (key) connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to one of the side terminals on the coil, possibly marked (-). If you don't have the original ignition switch, an on/off toggle switch, such as a household light switch, will work.

5) The other side terminal on the coil, possibly marked (+), connects via a small wire to the terminal nut on the side of the distributor, which is also where the wire from the condenser connects. If you have purchased a new condenser, be careful that the screw you use to attach it to the side of the distributor does not go in too far and contact the mechanism inside the distributor - if this is the case, use a washer as a shim.

6) You need to use the proper style wire to connect the center terminal on the coil to the center terminal on the top of the distributor. And of course, wires from the distributor to the four spark plugs.

--
In operation, you turn on the ignition switch to power the coil and distributor, providing spark to the spark plugs.

When you press the starter button, it temporarily activates the solenoid switch (you should hear it click), which then connects the heavy-duty juice from the battery to the starter and cranks the engine.

When you're done running the engine, be sure to turn off the ignition switch. Otherwise, the battery will run down. To prevent this, on a test stand, I also connected one of the running lights to the same terminal on the ignition switch as the coil. The light must also be grounded to the positive (+) terminal on the battery). The light comes on when the ignition switch is on, reminding you to shut it off when you're done playing. 

Hope this helps!

Park Hunter

Attachments:

Re: General information (wiring to start an engine)

L.E. Hardee
 

6p volt group one battery is what fits the Crosley battery box.  If you can't readily find them at your auto parts store, try a tractor supply store.  It doesn't take a lot of amps to turn the Crosley engine so any amp rating should be fine.  Just don't expect a 6v battery to last more than a couple of years.  Not sure why, Just my experience.

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 7:57 PM, Joe Brownsberger <jbraunsberg@...> wrote:
Thank you, this helps out a lot. I have since ordered a service book from service motors. What type of battery do you use? What cold crank amps do I need to look for?

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018, 7:17 PM <parkhunter@...> wrote:
Here's a crude diagram of what's necessary to wire a Crosley engine to start, whether in the car or on a test stand. This is for the original 6-volt POSITIVE GROUND system! This is the bare minimum to start and run the engine; it will not charge the battery or power lights or anything else.

For the ground and power straps (1 & 2 below) you need extremely heavy cables. The originals are about the thickness of a thumb! These are illustrated in black and red pen on the drawing.

For all other wiring, you can use small, light electrical wire. Bell wire works, or 14 or 16-guage automotive wire. In a pinch you can even use lamp cord.  :^)  These are illustrated with blue pen on the drawing.

Some notes:

1) The ground straps are the heavy, woven bare metal cables. The longer one goes from the positive (+) terminal on the battery to one of the bolts holding the starter motor to the bell housing.
... 1a) When the engine is in the car, the shorter one goes from a bell housing bolt to a bolt on the firewall to ground the metal body of the car and anything attached to it.
... 1b) When grounding anything on the car body, you need to scrape away a bit of the paint under the bolt to make metal-to-metal contact. 
... 1c) If the engine isn't in the car, you don't need the short cable BUT you will need to ground the solenoid (see 3b below). 

2) The power to actually crank the starter comes from the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a heavy, insulated cable to a bolt on one side of the solenoid, and then a second heavy cable from a bolt on the other side of the solenoid to the bolt on the side of the starter motor. The solenoid is a heavy-duty electrical switch that connects the power from the battery to the starter when you press the starter button on the dash.

3) The starter button connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to the bolt on the front of the solenoid via another small wire. To complete the circuit, the solenoid must be grounded to the positive (+) terminal of the battery, which can happen two ways:
...3a) When the engine is in the car, through the solenoid's mount to the firewall (see 1a,b above)
...3b) When the engine is on a test stand, run a small wire from one of the solenoid's mounting points to the positive (+) side of the battery.
...3c) If you don't have the original starter button, a "normally open" (N.O.) push button, such as a door-bell button, will work.

4) The ignition switch (key) connects to the negative (-) terminal of the battery via a small wire, and to one of the side terminals on the coil, possibly marked (-). If you don't have the original ignition switch, an on/off toggle switch, such as a household light switch, will work.

5) The other side terminal on the coil, possibly marked (+), connects via a small wire to the terminal nut on the side of the distributor, which is also where the wire from the condenser connects. If you have purchased a new condenser, be careful that the screw you use to attach it to the side of the distributor does not go in too far and contact the mechanism inside the distributor - if this is the case, use a washer as a shim.

6) You need to use the proper style wire to connect the center terminal on the coil to the center terminal on the top of the distributor. And of course, wires from the distributor to the four spark plugs.

--
In operation, you turn on the ignition switch to power the coil and distributor, providing spark to the spark plugs.

When you press the starter button, it temporarily activates the solenoid switch (you should hear it click), which then connects the heavy-duty juice from the battery to the starter and cranks the engine.

When you're done running the engine, be sure to turn off the ignition switch. Otherwise, the battery will run down. To prevent this, on a test stand, I also connected one of the running lights to the same terminal on the ignition switch as the coil. The light must also be grounded to the positive (+) terminal on the battery). The light comes on when the ignition switch is on, reminding you to shut it off when you're done playing. 

Hope this helps!

Park Hunter

Attachments:


General information (wiring to start an engine)

John Van Sickle
 

Interstate Batteries makes a quality 6 Volt - I have experienced  several   years of service for their batteries.

Re: Crofton Bug

Tom Sodaro
 

Steve, I am going to take pics and measurements and then set a tone to come up. 


On Jun 20, 2018, at 5:47 PM, Steve <brawnybug@...> wrote:

Tom,

Steve Miller here.  Come see me, I live 2 hours from DeKalb.  3 minutes west of Great America.  My Brawny Bug awaits you.

 

-Steve M.

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of Tom Sodaro
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 11:52 AM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: [Crosley-Gang] Crofton Bug

 

Hello all,  live outside of Chicago. I am trying to find someone with a Crofton Bug within a couple of hours. I would like to see your Crofton and take some measurements. Still having problems with the clutch linkage. Thanks Tom Sodaro

Re: Pickup Needed On Way To Nationals - St Louis MO

Gary Cochrane
 

Hi Jim,
If you do not have a volunteer for this yet, I am driving through St Louis on the way to convention and could pick it up
Gary Cochrane

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018, 4:47:23 PM PDT, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:


The club has been given a car radio and a heater for the silent auction at the Nationals. Is there anyone passing close to St. Louis MO that would be willing to pick them up and deliver to the Nationals in July?

If you can, contact me, and I will get you together with the member making the donation.

Jim "AT" Bollman.com

Jim...

Re: Pickup Needed On Way To Nationals - St Louis MO

Jim Bollman
 

Sorry I intend to post a status update. The parts have been picked up and are in Ohio waiting for the Nationals.

Thanks for the offer.

See you in a couple of weeks.

Jim...

On Jun 21, 2018, at 2:16 PM, Gary Cochrane via Groups.Io <g2cochrane@...> wrote:

Hi Jim,
If you do not have a volunteer for this yet, I am driving through St Louis on the way to convention and could pick it up
Gary Cochrane

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018, 4:47:23 PM PDT, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:


The club has been given a car radio and a heater for the silent auction at the Nationals. Is there anyone passing close to St. Louis MO that would be willing to pick them up and deliver to the Nationals in July?

If you can, contact me, and I will get you together with the member making the donation.

Jim "AT" Bollman.com

Jim...

Re: For Sale: PreWar Parts Car - North CA - $1100 or Best Offer

Jim Bollman
 

Price reduced to $900.

Contact Owner.

Jim...

Mary Ethel Miller's Passing

Jim Bollman
 
Edited

Dave Anspach President of CAC sent me this tribute to post.

Mary Ethel Miller
It is with extreme sadness I report to you the passing of Mary Ethel Miller of Pennsylvania.  Mary Ethel was the wife of our Director of Regions C. Joe Miller.  She was an active supporter of the hobby and the Crosley Club on a National level as well as the Pa Region.   For those of you who attend Wauseon, you will remember her in 2 areas.  First and foremost (to me) she was the lady with the cheery smile and ready laugh that seemed to be manning the Pa. Region tent almost constantly.  Secondly she was the person who was there when the Keystone Road rally kicked off…helping to organize things, passing out water, and keeping Joe calm. 

Personally, my earliest memory of Mary Ethel dates back over 20 years when I attended my first Crosley event in Pennsylvania.  I went to the event to learn more about the cars.  I walked in the door at the Brodbecks event and was immediately welcomed by her.  In short order, I had joined the Pennsylvania Region, got door prize tickets, and bought tickets for 2 different raffles.  In a whirlwind day, I met dozens of people, saw some fantastic cars, and had a fantastic time.  All because of her welcome!!  As I said I came to learn about cars… but I left understanding that the Club was the people…That was Mary Ethel….The people. 

We all mourn with the Miller family on the loss of this great lady.  Please remember her and her family in your prayers. 

Dave