Date   

Re: Valve clearance

Plandersen
 

I have an aluminum valve cover when a guy gave me a bunch of crosley stuff.  It may have been off of a boat motor.  The hold down studs are in the wrong place for it to fit my Crosley.  Any idea what it might fit on?  Kent

Kent Andersen
PO Box 364
Royal City, WA  99357

Phone 509-346-1500
Fax 509-346-1540
Cell 509-760-5881
Email pkandersen@...





On Feb 24, 2020, at 12:25 PM, Robert Connearney via Groups.Io <rconnearney@...> wrote:

I'm looking for a finned aluminum cam cover. Is the Braje (or other) still being marketed?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Andy Farley <farleya1@...>
Date: 2/24/20 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] Valve clearance

Between adjusting the valves, aluminum cam cover and new exhaust my Crosley is quieter, seems to run smoother and seems to have more power. Thanks to all for the advice.


Re: Valve clearance

Andy Farley
 

Service Motors has them.


Re: Valve clearance

Robert Connearney
 

I'm looking for a finned aluminum cam cover. Is the Braje (or other) still being marketed?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Andy Farley <farleya1@...>
Date: 2/24/20 3:08 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] Valve clearance

Between adjusting the valves, aluminum cam cover and new exhaust my Crosley is quieter, seems to run smoother and seems to have more power. Thanks to all for the advice.


Re: Valve clearance

Andy Farley
 

Between adjusting the valves, aluminum cam cover and new exhaust my Crosley is quieter, seems to run smoother and seems to have more power. Thanks to all for the advice.


Re: Crankshaft Pulley Mounting and Repairs

Butch
 

No, most of them had the bolt, rather than the stud. You will find that the hole in the pulley, is larger than the pulleys set up for the bolt.

As for repair, it can be center drilled, then drilled and tapped, I highly suggest, taking it to someone with a lathe, to do that.

Butch

On 2/24/2020 10:31 AM, nobadrivers wrote:
Going through some repairs on my Crosley engine I discovered someone must have broken what I thought was the pulley bolt but after removing the pulley and checking out a spare engine that I have I see that it is a stud that is part of the crankshaft.  Where they all like this?  I imagine I am not the only one that has this misfortune.  What are people doing to repair this?  I imagine the pulley never came off when it was running because of the long splined sleeve on the pulley and that combined with the fan belt keeping it from walking forward.  


Crankshaft Pulley Mounting and Repairs

nobadrivers
 

Going through some repairs on my Crosley engine I discovered someone must have broken what I thought was the pulley bolt but after removing the pulley and checking out a spare engine that I have I see that it is a stud that is part of the crankshaft.  Where they all like this?  I imagine I am not the only one that has this misfortune.  What are people doing to repair this?  I imagine the pulley never came off when it was running because of the long splined sleeve on the pulley and that combined with the fan belt keeping it from walking forward.  


Re: Raising the Body Off the Frame and Rolling It Over

Ron D.
 

Bruce,
   I took all of your pics, saved them to my desktop, where I was able to rotate and zoom each one to get a better perspective on how you did this. After zooming around the pics, I determined that you have some good ideas on how to do rehab on the bottom of the body, and I will probably make something similar to this when I get the time to remove my body off my car. Thanks for the pics.

Ron


Re: COBRA Block

seb fontana
 

In theory the braze should melt but you will have to knock it apart hot..


Re: COBRA Block

parkhunter@...
 

Bruce, my practical knowledge begins and ends with my engine. But quoting from “The Mighty Tin” article linked above...

The 4 cylinder block was constructed out of about 125 steel stamping. The pieces were held together by press fit, spot welds or crimping before brazing. The block is then copper brazed in a specially constructed 60 foot long furnace at 2060 degree F in a neutral atmosphere. The hardness of the alloy steel was controlled by the speed of cooling. The finished block weighs an extremely light 14 pounds.

I would suspect that if you heated the block enough to melt the brazing (2060 degrees?!?), then all you’d have holding it together would be the aforementioned crimps and spotwelds. 


Some people - probably the Gorrells - have done cross sections with bandsaws and could tell you more about the internal construction. 


- Park


Re: COBRA Block

Bob H.
 

Or, at the very least, stop putting gas in it! 😉

-Bob 

On Fri, Feb 21, 2020, 9:42 PM Robert Connearney via Groups.Io <rconnearney=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Why don't you turn it off?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Barry Smedley <BSmedley@...>
Date: 2/21/20 8:25 AM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] COBRA Block

I have a running one sitting on a shelf in my garage, It smokes pretty bad.

 

Barry Smedley

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of parkhunter@...
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 8:12 AM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] COBRA Block

 

I have a running CoBra in my Crosley. Search Crosley CoBra on YouTube and you should find some videos. 


It’s pretty obvious looking at a CoBra that it is made out of individual stampings that have been assembled and brazed together. I’ve attached some detail photos of my engine from when I cleaned it up. My engine is galvanized, which is a trick they used later to address the corrosion and leakage problems.


I have a defunct tin block I’d be glad to give you, but I’m in Wisconsin and shipping would probably be prohibitive. The dead version of the engine is pretty common, so I bet you can find one free or cheap in Florida. 


- Park

Attachments:

This message contains confidential information intended solely for the use of the addressee(s) named above. Any review, disclosure, distribution, copying or use of the information by others is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by immediate reply and delete the original message. (English) Ce message contient des informations confidentielles destinées uniquement à l'usage du(des) destinataire(s) nommé(s) ci-dessus. Toute consultation, distribution, copie et utilisation du contenu de ce message est strictement prohibée. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, SVP avisez l'expéditeur par réponse immédiate et effacez le message original. (French)


Re: Raising the Body Off the Frame and Rolling It Over

 

Bruce that is awesome! Looking forward to seeing you tomorrow.


On Feb 21, 2020, at 6:38 PM, bruce.derenski via Groups.Io <bruce.derenski@...> wrote:

Good evening, Crosley Fans!

I'm the guy that posted about the CD Wagon electric conversion last month. I'm just now doing the grunt work that goes with any restoration, and I'm still many moons away from the sexy stuff of the actual conversion. This month's project is separating the frame and body and attacking the repair and preservation of the undercarriage. I know the traditional way of lifting a body off a frame involves half-drunk friends and metal oil drums, but all my friends are in rough shape, and I didn't want to lose any to cardiac arrest, so I thought through a different way.

Behold my patented lifting rig! After stripping everything off the car and removing the doors, I jacked under the front and rear axle to raise the car as far as I could, and placed it on sturdy jack stands. I cut two 2x6s and two 2x4s to 6ft, and used them to span across the door openings. The 2x6s went closest to the floor and were notched to clear the tunnel. The 2x4s go above them; the front one tucked under the dash and the rear one all the way up along the rear of the door opening. The 2x4 under the dash has a couple of notches to clear the two bumps on the underside of the dash. The front two boards are attached using 1/4" bolts through the door hinge holes. I had to drill holes in the door opening frame for the rear boards. I feel badly about that, but I'll weld-plug them later. These four horizontal boards bear the entire weight of the body, so it's important to attach them well. I cut two 2x6's in half to make the 4 vertical supports, but I didn't attach them yet. I bought three 1000lb trailer jacks from Harbor Freight  (about $25 each with the coupon and borrowed a fourth one off my jet ski trailer.  I raised one jack all the way up, then lowered it an inch and used it to position the lower end of each of the four vertical supports. The vertical supports were attached with a bunch of screws to all four horizontals, and the four jacks were lag screwed to the vertical supports. I lopped off the top of the verticals even with the roof of the car, and I added two more 2x4s to the top and bottom of the verticals on the PASSENGER SIDE ONLY, running from the front to the back of the car. And I added a couple of short lengths of 2x6 to the bottom of the vertical supports. These lengths have an arc cut in them, and are positioned so that they "catch" the car on this side when the jacks on this side are almost completely lowered.

Now the fun part. After I unbolted the body, I put concrete blocks under the four jacks and raised the body up 4", ensuring that I hadn't missed any bolts (I did). With the body clear of the frame and supported by the trailer jacks, I used my trusty rolling jack to support the axles while I removed the jack stands and lowered the frame. With the wheels off the car, the frame still rolls easily on the brake drums. I dragged the frame clear of the body with about 4" to spare between the top of the shock towers and the bottom of the floorboards. Now, the body is high in the air and the frame is out in the driveway.

I then used the trailer jacks one at a time to remove the blocks on the PASSENGER SIDE ONLY.  I lowered the passenger side as far as I could, removed the blocks then repositioned those blocks to the driver's side, raising it as far as I could. When the passenger side was completely lowered, it was caught and supported by those two curved pieces I mentioned. Now the car was tilted about 30 degrees, and I could lift the driver side without any further help from the trailer jacks. It rolled over the rest of the way on the arcs cut in the bottom ends of the 2x6 extensions, and came to rest on the previously-vertical-but-now-horizontal supports.  It is stabilized by the 8' long 2x4s that run from front to back on the passenger side.

I probably haven't done a great job explaining this, but the one thing I can make clear is this: It cost me a couple of afternoons and about $125 in parts, lumber and fasteners to save countless hours on my back under this car. I can do a far better job working upright, and I didn't have to say "Hold this" to my wife or any of my geriatric neighbors. The whole thing is reversible, so when it's time to put the body back on the frame, I can do it without drama.

Can I get an Amen?

Attachments:


Re: COBRA Block

Robert Connearney
 

Why don't you turn it off?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Barry Smedley <BSmedley@...>
Date: 2/21/20 8:25 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] COBRA Block

I have a running one sitting on a shelf in my garage, It smokes pretty bad.

 

Barry Smedley

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of parkhunter@...
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 8:12 AM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] COBRA Block

 

I have a running CoBra in my Crosley. Search Crosley CoBra on YouTube and you should find some videos. 


It’s pretty obvious looking at a CoBra that it is made out of individual stampings that have been assembled and brazed together. I’ve attached some detail photos of my engine from when I cleaned it up. My engine is galvanized, which is a trick they used later to address the corrosion and leakage problems.


I have a defunct tin block I’d be glad to give you, but I’m in Wisconsin and shipping would probably be prohibitive. The dead version of the engine is pretty common, so I bet you can find one free or cheap in Florida. 


- Park

Attachments:

This message contains confidential information intended solely for the use of the addressee(s) named above. Any review, disclosure, distribution, copying or use of the information by others is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by immediate reply and delete the original message. (English) Ce message contient des informations confidentielles destinées uniquement à l'usage du(des) destinataire(s) nommé(s) ci-dessus. Toute consultation, distribution, copie et utilisation du contenu de ce message est strictement prohibée. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, SVP avisez l'expéditeur par réponse immédiate et effacez le message original. (French)


Re: Raising the Body Off the Frame and Rolling It Over

John Stein
 

 raised my super sports built a frame on top of a old hospital gurney .
works great. I love works in progress


Raising the Body Off the Frame and Rolling It Over

Bruce Derenski
 

Good evening, Crosley Fans!

I'm the guy that posted about the CD Wagon electric conversion last month. I'm just now doing the grunt work that goes with any restoration, and I'm still many moons away from the sexy stuff of the actual conversion. This month's project is separating the frame and body and attacking the repair and preservation of the undercarriage. I know the traditional way of lifting a body off a frame involves half-drunk friends and metal oil drums, but all my friends are in rough shape, and I didn't want to lose any to cardiac arrest, so I thought through a different way.

Behold my patented lifting rig! After stripping everything off the car and removing the doors, I jacked under the front and rear axle to raise the car as far as I could, and placed it on sturdy jack stands. I cut two 2x6s and two 2x4s to 6ft, and used them to span across the door openings. The 2x6s went closest to the floor and were notched to clear the tunnel. The 2x4s go above them; the front one tucked under the dash and the rear one all the way up along the rear of the door opening. The 2x4 under the dash has a couple of notches to clear the two bumps on the underside of the dash. The front two boards are attached using 1/4" bolts through the door hinge holes. I had to drill holes in the door opening frame for the rear boards. I feel badly about that, but I'll weld-plug them later. These four horizontal boards bear the entire weight of the body, so it's important to attach them well. I cut two 2x6's in half to make the 4 vertical supports, but I didn't attach them yet. I bought three 1000lb trailer jacks from Harbor Freight  (about $25 each with the coupon and borrowed a fourth one off my jet ski trailer.  I raised one jack all the way up, then lowered it an inch and used it to position the lower end of each of the four vertical supports. The vertical supports were attached with a bunch of screws to all four horizontals, and the four jacks were lag screwed to the vertical supports. I lopped off the top of the verticals even with the roof of the car, and I added two more 2x4s to the top and bottom of the verticals on the PASSENGER SIDE ONLY, running from the front to the back of the car. And I added a couple of short lengths of 2x6 to the bottom of the vertical supports. These lengths have an arc cut in them, and are positioned so that they "catch" the car on this side when the jacks on this side are almost completely lowered.

Now the fun part. After I unbolted the body, I put concrete blocks under the four jacks and raised the body up 4", ensuring that I hadn't missed any bolts (I did). With the body clear of the frame and supported by the trailer jacks, I used my trusty rolling jack to support the axles while I removed the jack stands and lowered the frame. With the wheels off the car, the frame still rolls easily on the brake drums. I dragged the frame clear of the body with about 4" to spare between the top of the shock towers and the bottom of the floorboards. Now, the body is high in the air and the frame is out in the driveway.

I then used the trailer jacks one at a time to remove the blocks on the PASSENGER SIDE ONLY.  I lowered the passenger side as far as I could, removed the blocks then repositioned those blocks to the driver's side, raising it as far as I could. When the passenger side was completely lowered, it was caught and supported by those two curved pieces I mentioned. Now the car was tilted about 30 degrees, and I could lift the driver side without any further help from the trailer jacks. It rolled over the rest of the way on the arcs cut in the bottom ends of the 2x6 extensions, and came to rest on the previously-vertical-but-now-horizontal supports.  It is stabilized by the 8' long 2x4s that run from front to back on the passenger side.

I probably haven't done a great job explaining this, but the one thing I can make clear is this: It cost me a couple of afternoons and about $125 in parts, lumber and fasteners to save countless hours on my back under this car. I can do a far better job working upright, and I didn't have to say "Hold this" to my wife or any of my geriatric neighbors. The whole thing is reversible, so when it's time to put the body back on the frame, I can do it without drama.

Can I get an Amen?


Re: COBRA Block

Bruce Derenski
 

Park, the photos are great. My early questions have to do with how the individual stamped pieces are arranged, and your photos show some good details of that. I'm really curious if a tin block can be heated and disassembled.


Re: COBRA Block

Barry Smedley
 

I have a running one sitting on a shelf in my garage, It smokes pretty bad.

 

Barry Smedley

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of parkhunter@...
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2020 8:12 AM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] COBRA Block

 

I have a running CoBra in my Crosley. Search Crosley CoBra on YouTube and you should find some videos. 


It’s pretty obvious looking at a CoBra that it is made out of individual stampings that have been assembled and brazed together. I’ve attached some detail photos of my engine from when I cleaned it up. My engine is galvanized, which is a trick they used later to address the corrosion and leakage problems.


I have a defunct tin block I’d be glad to give you, but I’m in Wisconsin and shipping would probably be prohibitive. The dead version of the engine is pretty common, so I bet you can find one free or cheap in Florida. 


- Park

Attachments:

This message contains confidential information intended solely for the use of the addressee(s) named above. Any review, disclosure, distribution, copying or use of the information by others is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by immediate reply and delete the original message. (English) Ce message contient des informations confidentielles destinées uniquement à l'usage du(des) destinataire(s) nommé(s) ci-dessus. Toute consultation, distribution, copie et utilisation du contenu de ce message est strictement prohibée. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, SVP avisez l'expéditeur par réponse immédiate et effacez le message original. (French)


Re: COBRA Block

parkhunter@...
 

I have a running CoBra in my Crosley. Search Crosley CoBra on YouTube and you should find some videos. 


It’s pretty obvious looking at a CoBra that it is made out of individual stampings that have been assembled and brazed together. I’ve attached some detail photos of my engine from when I cleaned it up. My engine is galvanized, which is a trick they used later to address the corrosion and leakage problems.


I have a defunct tin block I’d be glad to give you, but I’m in Wisconsin and shipping would probably be prohibitive. The dead version of the engine is pretty common, so I bet you can find one free or cheap in Florida. 


- Park


Re: STD Piston Size

Barry Smedley
 

That is a cast iron block, not a tin. I like your car cover!

 

Barry Smedley

 

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of nobadrivers
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 3:33 PM
To: Crosley-Gang@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] STD Piston Size

 

This is the engine I have in my 1947 Sedan.  This is not the tin engine correct?  I need a upper compression piston ring and an exhaust valve just to get it going again. 

Attachments:

This message contains confidential information intended solely for the use of the addressee(s) named above. Any review, disclosure, distribution, copying or use of the information by others is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by immediate reply and delete the original message. (English) Ce message contient des informations confidentielles destinées uniquement à l'usage du(des) destinataire(s) nommé(s) ci-dessus. Toute consultation, distribution, copie et utilisation du contenu de ce message est strictement prohibée. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, SVP avisez l'expéditeur par réponse immédiate et effacez le message original. (French)


Re: STD Piston Size

Butch
 

Not a tin block (COBRA), but it is a cast block (CIBA). The rings and the valves remain the same.

Butch

On 2/20/2020 3:33 PM, nobadrivers wrote:
This is the engine I have in my 1947 Sedan.  This is not the tin engine correct?  I need a upper compression piston ring and an exhaust valve just to get it going again.


Re: STD Piston Size

nobadrivers
 

This is the engine I have in my 1947 Sedan.  This is not the tin engine correct?  I need a upper compression piston ring and an exhaust valve just to get it going again.