Date   

Re: Oil pressure

Butch
 

Either, a mechanical or electric gauge will work. Finding a 6 volt electric gauge, in stock locally, might be a challenge. Any mechanical gauge will work, it is not voltage or vehicle specific.

Butch

On 4/15/2020 8:13 PM, Steve Perry wrote:
Hello All..
I started the car briefly on some starting fluid just to see if it would go. I will rig up a fuel supply tomorrow. I wanted to know if anyone has hooked up an oil pressure sender into the crankcase or if I need to use the type gauge with the oil line?
Im just hooking up something that I can read while I start and run the engine temporarily. The car will require a new wiring harness before I’m able to hook everything up normally.
Thanks,
Steve
_._,_._,


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Oil pressure

Steve Perry
 

Hello All..
I started the car briefly on some starting fluid just to see if it would go. I will rig up a fuel supply tomorrow. I wanted to know if anyone has hooked up an oil pressure sender into the crankcase or if I need to use the type gauge with the oil line?
Im just hooking up something that I can read while I start and run the engine temporarily. The car will require a new wiring harness before I’m able to hook everything up normally.
Thanks,
Steve


New member

Andy Farley
 

I signed up for membership a few weeks ago. I was just wondering how long it takes to get acknowledgement of my application and member information.


Re: Almquist in craigslist

James Dlapa
 

Good luck, 
Hope it is. Seems like a great deal

On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 6:43 PM Spock Arnold via groups.io <tmkldwwj=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
I sent him a note to see if it is available.  If it is, I will try to buy it. 

On Apr 13, 2020 8:50 PM, James Dlapa <crosley1980@...> wrote:

Hi all, just ran across this on Craigslist in State College,PA. Wish it was closer. Looks like an Almquist on a fiat chassis. 


Hope it finds a good https://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/d/state-college-1950s-beach-racer/7097453596.html



Re: Almquist in craigslist

Spock Arnold
 

I sent him a note to see if it is available.  If it is, I will try to buy it. 

On Apr 13, 2020 8:50 PM, James Dlapa <crosley1980@...> wrote:

Hi all, just ran across this on Craigslist in State College,PA. Wish it was closer. Looks like an Almquist on a fiat chassis. 


Hope it finds a good https://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/d/state-college-1950s-beach-racer/7097453596.html



Re: Almquist in craigslist

James Dlapa
 

Looks very similar to the car in this article, and places it close to its origin. 


On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 5:50 PM James Dlapa via groups.io <crosley1980=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi all, just ran across this on Craigslist in State College,PA. Wish it was closer. Looks like an Almquist on a fiat chassis. 


Hope it finds a good https://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/d/state-college-1950s-beach-racer/7097453596.html


Almquist in craigslist

James Dlapa
 

Hi all, just ran across this on Craigslist in State College,PA. Wish it was closer. Looks like an Almquist on a fiat chassis. 


Hope it finds a good https://pennstate.craigslist.org/cto/d/state-college-1950s-beach-racer/7097453596.html


Re: I saw a FOR on Craigslist. (It's not mine)

Spock Arnold
 

Dean Shermans

On Apr 13, 2020 4:51 PM, "dkduster70 via groups.io" <dkduster70@...> wrote:
I saw a Farm O Road on Craigslist.
Here is the link if anybody wants to look at it.
https://toledo.craigslist.org/atq/d/liberty-center-crosley-for-with-sickle/7107480502.html


I saw a FOR on Craigslist. (It's not mine)

dkduster70@...
 

I saw a Farm O Road on Craigslist.
Here is the link if anybody wants to look at it.
https://toledo.craigslist.org/atq/d/liberty-center-crosley-for-with-sickle/7107480502.html


Re: vapor lock issue

Robert Kirk
 

It would be most unusual to vapor lock with fuel running through the lines.  Vapor lock would normally occur when you shut off the motor and allow heat build up beneath the hood.  That heat essentially boils the fuel turning it into vapor.  That would be very difficult with fuel flowing constantly. 


Re: vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

Thanks Jim, I  get what you are saying. I am sure you are right that I have overlooked some difference between my car and others but I feel like I have earned the right to give up, if you know what I mean. I rebuilt the pump with parts from one of those guys just don’t remember which one. Doesn’t mean I didn’t make a mistake but it works great except when it doesn’t. I have double isolation gaskets installed on the pump. The electric pump I ordered is 4 psi but I bet it will lose 1/2 psi from the myriad piping on the way to the carb. It had a good rating from a prewar Crosley guy at Summit racing. I will track down an inertia switch for the circuit.
One note of safety though. If you run an electric pump thru a mechanical pump you better hope the diaphragm never fails with a crack. Has potential to leak fuel in to crankcase.

Brett Wright
CEO
Wright Construction Co., Inc.

On Apr 13, 2020, at 2:46 PM, Jim Bollman via groups.io <Jim@...> wrote:

It sounds like you have a plan that should fix the problem but should not be necessary, as you say most don't have a problem. I was just going to suggest when your  last message came in that it was time to start over because one or more of your steps must be bad. I was going to suggest buying a new fuel pump from Yankee or Service instead of relying on a rebuilt that may have another problem other than what was replaced in the rebuild. Also make sure you had one of the insulating high temperature gaskets behind the fuel pump.

Make sure the electric fuel pump puts out between 1.5 and 3.5 lbs of pressure so you don't over power the float valve. Several members run electric pumps near the tank and push fuel through the mechanical pump. You need to have it hooked up so it turns off when not wanted so in an accident situation that it doesn't keep pumping gas. 

Jim...

On Apr 13, 2020, at 2:08 PM, bwright@... wrote:

here is my plan going forward because I feel like I am chasing a mirage on this issue. I ordered some wrap for the exhaust manifold. I plan to do that and see if it or any other minor changes resolve the issue. I also ordered a high quality 6 volt in line electric pump. If the before mentioned steps don't take care of it, I plan to install the pump near the tank and bypass the mechanical pump and pipe direct to the Carburetor. I am really stumped why I have more issues with this than anyone else but I am also plenty tired of spending too much time and money chasing something I know can be resolved by taking the poorly located mechanical pump out of play


Re: vapor lock issue

Jim Bollman
 

It sounds like you have a plan that should fix the problem but should not be necessary, as you say most don't have a problem. I was just going to suggest when your  last message came in that it was time to start over because one or more of your steps must be bad. I was going to suggest buying a new fuel pump from Yankee or Service instead of relying on a rebuilt that may have another problem other than what was replaced in the rebuild. Also make sure you had one of the insulating high temperature gaskets behind the fuel pump.

Make sure the electric fuel pump puts out between 1.5 and 3.5 lbs of pressure so you don't over power the float valve. Several members run electric pumps near the tank and push fuel through the mechanical pump. You need to have it hooked up so it turns off when not wanted so in an accident situation that it doesn't keep pumping gas. 

Jim...

On Apr 13, 2020, at 2:08 PM, bwright@... wrote:

here is my plan going forward because I feel like I am chasing a mirage on this issue. I ordered some wrap for the exhaust manifold. I plan to do that and see if it or any other minor changes resolve the issue. I also ordered a high quality 6 volt in line electric pump. If the before mentioned steps don't take care of it, I plan to install the pump near the tank and bypass the mechanical pump and pipe direct to the Carburetor. I am really stumped why I have more issues with this than anyone else but I am also plenty tired of spending too much time and money chasing something I know can be resolved by taking the poorly located mechanical pump out of play


Re: vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

Tilotson carb

Brett Wright
CEO
Wright Construction Co., Inc.

On Apr 13, 2020, at 2:29 PM, Butch via groups.io <butch46988=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Just remember, you want a LOW pressure pump, 1 1/2 to 3 pounds output.

BTW, if you mentioned it, I missed it. What carb do you have?

Butch

On 4/13/2020 2:08 PM, bwright@... wrote:
here is my plan going forward because I feel like I am chasing a mirage on this issue. I ordered some wrap for the exhaust manifold. I plan to do that and see if it or any other minor changes resolve the issue. I also ordered a high quality 6 volt in line electric pump. If the before mentioned steps don't take care of it, I plan to install the pump near the tank and bypass the mechanical pump and pipe direct to the Carburetor. I am really stumped why I have more issues with this than anyone else but I am also plenty tired of spending too much time and money chasing something I know can be resolved by taking the poorly located mechanical pump out of play

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Re: vapor lock issue

Butch
 

Just remember, you want a LOW pressure pump, 1 1/2 to 3 pounds output.

BTW, if you mentioned it, I missed it. What carb do you have?

Butch

On 4/13/2020 2:08 PM, bwright@... wrote:
here is my plan going forward because I feel like I am chasing a mirage on this issue. I ordered some wrap for the exhaust manifold. I plan to do that and see if it or any other minor changes resolve the issue. I also ordered a high quality 6 volt in line electric pump. If the before mentioned steps don't take care of it, I plan to install the pump near the tank and bypass the mechanical pump and pipe direct to the Carburetor. I am really stumped why I have more issues with this than anyone else but I am also plenty tired of spending too much time and money chasing something I know can be resolved by taking the poorly located mechanical pump out of play
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Re: vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

here is my plan going forward because I feel like I am chasing a mirage on this issue. I ordered some wrap for the exhaust manifold. I plan to do that and see if it or any other minor changes resolve the issue. I also ordered a high quality 6 volt in line electric pump. If the before mentioned steps don't take care of it, I plan to install the pump near the tank and bypass the mechanical pump and pipe direct to the Carburetor. I am really stumped why I have more issues with this than anyone else but I am also plenty tired of spending too much time and money chasing something I know can be resolved by taking the poorly located mechanical pump out of play


Re: vapor lock issue

Spock Arnold
 

Tmkldwwj@... 

On Apr 13, 2020 12:23 PM, bwright@... wrote:
Let me describe this because I doin"t have photos of everything along the evolution of what I have tried with fuel lines. The fuel line from the tank to the engine compartment is and has been just as it came from the factory. when I first started dealing with this vapor lock I installed an in line 6 volt electric fuel pump in the engine bay and piped it through the mechanical pump. I used it mostly for self rescue and did not run it full time for fear of flooding the crankcase with fuel. I do suspect if that was piped directly to the carb it would have solved the problem. The electric pump has since failed. I still have that loop for the electric pump in place but I should remove it now since the pump is shot. I have tried the fuel line routing run behind the tower shaft and I have tried the fuel line over the valve cover and there is no difference.The only remaining routing would be in front of the tower shaft assuming it will fit there. Right now the fuel comes in to the engine compartment passes thru a loop the a defunct inline electric fuel pump then over the valve cover and in to the top of mechanical pump. It does not ever come close to the exhaust header and it still vapor locks. I shot the temperatures of various surfaces under the hood last summer. The engine block was about 175 degrees the header was 400 as I recall. Arnold, supply me your email and I will send photos off-line


Re: vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

this is a reply to R Williams. The radiator is freshly recored with a modern more efficient core. The engine cooling passageway around the cylinders are very clean. All of the cardboard panels are in place. You mentioned one below the front of the hood. I have a metal panel there if that is what you mean? The routing of fuel line you described is what I have had for some time and had a number of people tell me to move it which I have done over the valve cover. Both routings vapor lock. The engine water temperature is always within normal ranges when the engine vapor locks. It vapor locks at the mechanical fuel pump and then the carburetor gets starved and I am done. The car does not vapor lock with air moving thru ate speed unless I UNDERTAKE A STEEP AND LONG ASCENT. IT WILL ALWAYS VAPOR LOCK IF I LET IT IDLE IN PLACE WITH THE HOOD DOWN FOR 15 MINUTES


Re: vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

Let me describe this because I doin"t have photos of everything along the evolution of what I have tried with fuel lines. The fuel line from the tank to the engine compartment is and has been just as it came from the factory. when I first started dealing with this vapor lock I installed an in line 6 volt electric fuel pump in the engine bay and piped it through the mechanical pump. I used it mostly for self rescue and did not run it full time for fear of flooding the crankcase with fuel. I do suspect if that was piped directly to the carb it would have solved the problem. The electric pump has since failed. I still have that loop for the electric pump in place but I should remove it now since the pump is shot. I have tried the fuel line routing run behind the tower shaft and I have tried the fuel line over the valve cover and there is no difference.The only remaining routing would be in front of the tower shaft assuming it will fit there. Right now the fuel comes in to the engine compartment passes thru a loop the a defunct inline electric fuel pump then over the valve cover and in to the top of mechanical pump. It does not ever come close to the exhaust header and it still vapor locks. I shot the temperatures of various surfaces under the hood last summer. The engine block was about 175 degrees the header was 400 as I recall. Arnold, supply me your email and I will send photos off-line


Re: vapor lock issue

Richard Williams
 

I rodded out the radiator first. Make sure that you have the panels in on both sides of the radiator and the small one under the bottom of the hood. The fuel line on all of my cars goes across the front of the engine just behind the shaft housing for the tower shaft. That way it is behind the fan for good cooling. Good luck. Rich W.

On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 08:08:03 PM PDT, Spock Arnold via groups.io <tmkldwwj@...> wrote:


I do it frequently with no problem.  Now could you please take a picture of how your fuel line is run under the hood?  Then please describe in detail the path the fuel line takes from the tank to the beginning of the picture.   I have had this problem in the past and fixed it by rerouting the fuel line. 

On Apr 12, 2020 10:10 PM, bwright@... wrote:
I removed the plate on one side of the block and there was a small amount of debris enough to cover the floor) but nothing alarming. The fuel line is now routed over the top of the valve cover. I think I have covered every possible suggestion. just for the heck of it can one of you guys start your car and let it idle for for 15 minutes or so with the hood down and see if it vapor locks. I really don't get what I am missing. I don't see or feel any leak in the exhaust manifold gasket either.


Re: vapor lock issue

Spock Arnold
 

I do it frequently with no problem.  Now could you please take a picture of how your fuel line is run under the hood?  Then please describe in detail the path the fuel line takes from the tank to the beginning of the picture.   I have had this problem in the past and fixed it by rerouting the fuel line. 

On Apr 12, 2020 10:10 PM, bwright@... wrote:
I removed the plate on one side of the block and there was a small amount of debris enough to cover the floor) but nothing alarming. The fuel line is now routed over the top of the valve cover. I think I have covered every possible suggestion. just for the heck of it can one of you guys start your car and let it idle for for 15 minutes or so with the hood down and see if it vapor locks. I really don't get what I am missing. I don't see or feel any leak in the exhaust manifold gasket either.