Date   

Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Jim Liberty
 

I always turn the drums, and have the (Always) new linings radiused to the drums. That way you get full contact as soon as you stop the first time. You can do this yourself, but it's much better to have a brake shop do it.   ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 2:37 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I didn't do either of those things. I just replaced the cylinders, bled the lines, adjusted, reassembled.

After taking both sides back apart, I noticed that the linings on both sides were a little tacky to the touch. Maybe contamination from brake fluid? I got a little more aggressive with 220 sandpaper and removed the tacky surface from all four linings. Then, I went back through the adjustment procedure and took my time. The brakes are much improved! I suspect all of the lines need bleeding, which I'll do tonight, but the "grabbiness" is gone. I think you were right on the money about brake fluid in the linings. I'll plan to pick up a set at Wauseon but it stops well enough to get from the trailer to its spot!

Jim, thank you very much for your time today. It was most appreciated.

-Bob 

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 5:10 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
What you have done is right. A slight drag is OK too. Did you turn the drums, and have the shoes matched.   .....Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:29 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I think so but would welcome a second opinion. The linings are installed with the longer lining toward the front of the car. I have the passenger side apart again now so I've attached some photos. I also took photos of the lining surfaces in case it's obvious that they're contaminated. 

As for adjustment, I adjusted the top (eccentric pin) first by turning until the drum dragged and then backing off until the dragging stopped (which didn't take much). Then I did the same with the bottom (anchor points). I didn't use feeler gauges; maybe I need to? I have standard feeler gauges like for a valve adjustment but I'm not sure those are right for a curved brake drum surface? 

Thanks!

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 3:17 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? Sounds like you did the rest correctly. Is it possible the new cylinders are leaking again. It does happen even with new parts.   ...... Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:08 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman

Attachments:


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Bob H.
 

I didn't do either of those things. I just replaced the cylinders, bled the lines, adjusted, reassembled.

After taking both sides back apart, I noticed that the linings on both sides were a little tacky to the touch. Maybe contamination from brake fluid? I got a little more aggressive with 220 sandpaper and removed the tacky surface from all four linings. Then, I went back through the adjustment procedure and took my time. The brakes are much improved! I suspect all of the lines need bleeding, which I'll do tonight, but the "grabbiness" is gone. I think you were right on the money about brake fluid in the linings. I'll plan to pick up a set at Wauseon but it stops well enough to get from the trailer to its spot!

Jim, thank you very much for your time today. It was most appreciated.

-Bob 

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 5:10 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
What you have done is right. A slight drag is OK too. Did you turn the drums, and have the shoes matched.   .....Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:29 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I think so but would welcome a second opinion. The linings are installed with the longer lining toward the front of the car. I have the passenger side apart again now so I've attached some photos. I also took photos of the lining surfaces in case it's obvious that they're contaminated. 

As for adjustment, I adjusted the top (eccentric pin) first by turning until the drum dragged and then backing off until the dragging stopped (which didn't take much). Then I did the same with the bottom (anchor points). I didn't use feeler gauges; maybe I need to? I have standard feeler gauges like for a valve adjustment but I'm not sure those are right for a curved brake drum surface? 

Thanks!

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 3:17 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? Sounds like you did the rest correctly. Is it possible the new cylinders are leaking again. It does happen even with new parts.   ...... Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:08 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman

Attachments:


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Jim Liberty
 

What you have done is right. A slight drag is OK too. Did you turn the drums, and have the shoes matched.   .....Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:29 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I think so but would welcome a second opinion. The linings are installed with the longer lining toward the front of the car. I have the passenger side apart again now so I've attached some photos. I also took photos of the lining surfaces in case it's obvious that they're contaminated. 

As for adjustment, I adjusted the top (eccentric pin) first by turning until the drum dragged and then backing off until the dragging stopped (which didn't take much). Then I did the same with the bottom (anchor points). I didn't use feeler gauges; maybe I need to? I have standard feeler gauges like for a valve adjustment but I'm not sure those are right for a curved brake drum surface? 

Thanks!

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 3:17 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? Sounds like you did the rest correctly. Is it possible the new cylinders are leaking again. It does happen even with new parts.   ...... Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:08 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman

Attachments:


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Bob H.
 

I think so but would welcome a second opinion. The linings are installed with the longer lining toward the front of the car. I have the passenger side apart again now so I've attached some photos. I also took photos of the lining surfaces in case it's obvious that they're contaminated. 

As for adjustment, I adjusted the top (eccentric pin) first by turning until the drum dragged and then backing off until the dragging stopped (which didn't take much). Then I did the same with the bottom (anchor points). I didn't use feeler gauges; maybe I need to? I have standard feeler gauges like for a valve adjustment but I'm not sure those are right for a curved brake drum surface? 

Thanks!

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 3:17 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? Sounds like you did the rest correctly. Is it possible the new cylinders are leaking again. It does happen even with new parts.   ...... Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:08 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Jim Liberty
 

Are you sure the shoes are installed correctly? Sounds like you did the rest correctly. Is it possible the new cylinders are leaking again. It does happen even with new parts.   ...... Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 12:08 PM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:
I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Bob H.
 

I don't have much experience with drum brakes but the linings didn't look wet or discolored to me. Would it be obvious if they were damaged from fluid? I did very lightly clean them up with some medium sandpaper before reassembly just to remove any extra dust.

Thanks a lot for your help!

Bob

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021, 2:51 PM Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:
Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman


Re: 1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Jim Liberty
 

Did you check the linings for brake fluid. The leak may have contaminated them.    ......Jim.

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 11:33 AM Bob H. <bob@...> wrote:

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman


1951 CD - 9" drum brakes "grabbing"

Bob H.
 

Hi all,

After sitting for a couple of years, I'm working on getting Dad's '51 wagon back on the road (and to Wauseon next week!).

Both of the front wheel cylinders were leaking and one was seized. So, I replaced them both and bled the system. Once done, I (think I) followed the service manual brake adjustment steps and took it down the road. It's immediately obvious that the car is pulling badly to the right and it takes very little pedal travel in order to engage a LOT of stopping power.

My son and I put it back up on jack stands and observe the following. While I'm spinning a front wheel forward, he very slowly/lightly applies brake pressure. Just a second or two after I start to feel the linings contact the drum, the wheel STOPS. I mean, it stops like it hit something. The front passenger side is worse than the front driver's side but both exhibit this behavior. When I spin either front wheel backwards, they slow and stop smoothly as they should. The rears, which I didn't touch, slow and stop smoothly as they should in both directions. My son noted that it took more pedal travel to engage the rears, but of course I don't know when the last time the rears were adjusted (and I'm not inclined to touch them at this point!).

I'm going to try adjusting the fronts again but is there a particular mistake during adjustment or procedure that can cause this? I suspect that maybe contact with the drum is causing one of the linings to "shift" in such a way that it is suddenly pushed against the drum with great force.

Thanks! I'm looking forward to my second real Crosley meet!

-Bob Hodgeman


H-Modified Racing at Put-in-Bay

Jim Bollman
 

For you H Mod fans.

View this email in your browser
Put-in-Bay will be the site for the next gathering of the H-Modified Racing Club. Four cars are registered for the event as of July 1st, and we anticipate more entries as we get closer to the date of the event. (In addition to the HMODs, four H-Production cars have signed up, so there should be a nice grouping of small-bore racers.)

Put-in-Bay, an island vacation spot in Lake Erie, hosted road races in the 50s and early 60s, limiting entries to cars under 2-liters. HMODs were popular entries, ranging from Crosley-based racers, to the exotics of the day (Bandini, Siata, OSCA).

Reunions began in 2009, and have grown to rival any vintage festival. Races will be held on a 1.2 mile airport course on September 22-23. More information is available at pibroadrace.com.
Register For Put-in-Bay Now

HOW ABOUT SOME CARS AND PARTS?

Martin Tanner T-2

Aluminum frame, fiberglass body. Body in very poor shape. A few suspension bits attached to frame but basically bare. Unknown where remaining parts are (we have looked through spares) or what they were derived from. This car is very rough.

Martin Tanner T-5


Frame: aluminum space frame design. Engine: SAAB 3 cylinder (fresh-built by Bud Clark). Second engine available also fresh by Bud Clark. Transmission: Rib case Sprite with custom shift tower. Brakes: Front brake drums - Datsun 510, Rear brake drums - Topolino. Rear axle housing: Topolino - pumpkin - Datsun 510. Front spindles: custom, heavy duty. I think second set with spares. Rear axles and hubs: Custom, heavy duty
Fiberglass body in good shape
Topolino steering box
Wheels: Custom aluminum to original pattern. Second set available. I think casting patterns are also there
Fuel Safe custom fuel cell
Car is assembled and complete but will need careful inspection and commissioning as it has not been driven in years. Engine runs.
Owner prefers to sell both cars and all parts as one lot. There are many, many parts - perhaps 2 pickups in volume. Detailed photos of parts and cars as they sit today are available.
At this time a price for everything has not been established. We are working on that. Everything is located near Prescott, AZ 86305. I am familiar with both cars and the parts as I helped assemble the cars and participated in organizing the parts. Located in Arizona. For more information, contact Franklin Rudolph.

Fiat Crosley HM Special


Not much is known about this car prior to its discovery baking in the Western sun. But it has a strong reputation as a vintage racer, having raced at Laguna Seca, Monterey, Willow Springs, and at a small track in the Nevada desert.

Some specs...
Tube frame, aluminum body, Fiat 500 running gear (suspension, wheels, steering, and radiator), Fiat 1100 alfin brakes, Crosley engine (tuned exhaust, twin Solex carburetors on Braje intake manifold, Braje oil pan, close ratio Sprite 4-speed mated to aluminum flywheel). Located in western Massachusetts. Email Richard for details.

Featured in Joe Puckett's book, "Big Drivers in Little Cars."

1966 Beach Mk 4B-II

s/n 107
This 1966 Beach is powered by an 875cc Imp engine (twin Weber carburetors, 4-speed Roots gearbox). The car is located in the Atlanta area, and is described as "ready to go." The asking price is $32k. Check with Arne Lillehamer.

Crosley Powered HMOD



Crosley-powered HMOD. Built-up tube frame with fiberglass nose and tail. Center section is aluminum. Crosley engine with Carter carburetor. Several Braje engine components, but the engine hasn't been opened or restored since the car was put away (probably over 40 years ago). 

Comes with a questionable story about being a Don Miller car with an engine built by Nick Brajevich. Supposedly last raced at Woody Creek (now Aspen Racing and Sports Car Club) in 1972.

Contact Richard for details.

LeGrand Suspension Components

Or...maybe you've got a LeGrand that needs some suspension pieces to get it back on the track.

If these look like the parts you need, send an email to Jay.
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Re: New Crosley of the Month

Jim Bollman
 

Thanks, amazing how your brain reads what you mean instead of what you type. Must have read those captions 3 or 4 times and missed the extra word.

Jim...

On Jul 1, 2021, at 12:18 AM, Sam Perley <samperley@...> wrote:

Hey Jim, wonderful read but I did notice one typo at the end. 

"Wonder if the anyone standing at the...." 

That's all, still a great article.

Sam 

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021, 22:37 Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
Here is the latest CotM http://crosleyautoclub.com

The Nationals are next week, hope a lot of you are getting packed and ready to go. 

Jim...




Re: New Crosley of the Month

Sam Perley
 

Hey Jim, wonderful read but I did notice one typo at the end. 

"Wonder if the anyone standing at the...." 

That's all, still a great article.

Sam 

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021, 22:37 Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
Here is the latest CotM http://crosleyautoclub.com

The Nationals are next week, hope a lot of you are getting packed and ready to go. 

Jim...


New Crosley of the Month

Jim Bollman
 

Here is the latest CotM http://crosleyautoclub.com

The Nationals are next week, hope a lot of you are getting packed and ready to go. 

Jim...


Re: Hubcaps

Jim Bollman
 

Ted (Yankee) will be living for Wauseon real soon if he hasn’t already left.

Jim...

On Jun 30, 2021, at 5:49 PM, Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:

Thanks Jim. I'll give Yankee a shout.    ......Jim.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 12:45 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
Yankee has nice reproduction in high dome. Unless you luck into a deal you probably will not find originals in perfect condition cheaper. Price goes up with condition and near perfect can be expensive.

Jim...

On Jun 30, 2021, at 3:27 PM, Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:

Hey guys, I am looking for five (5) excellent hubcaps for my '50 Hotshot. High or low dome OK. No dents, and painted "Crosley". Is this an impossible request. Here is my car. "Bearcat" motor, dual exhausts.                .......................Jim.
<DSC_0029-001.JPG><DSC_0032.JPG><DSC_0034.JPG><DSC_0038.JPG>





Re: Hubcaps

Jim Liberty
 

Thanks Jim. I'll give Yankee a shout.    ......Jim.

On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 12:45 PM Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:
Yankee has nice reproduction in high dome. Unless you luck into a deal you probably will not find originals in perfect condition cheaper. Price goes up with condition and near perfect can be expensive.

Jim...

On Jun 30, 2021, at 3:27 PM, Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:

Hey guys, I am looking for five (5) excellent hubcaps for my '50 Hotshot. High or low dome OK. No dents, and painted "Crosley". Is this an impossible request. Here is my car. "Bearcat" motor, dual exhausts.                .......................Jim.
<DSC_0029-001.JPG><DSC_0032.JPG><DSC_0034.JPG><DSC_0038.JPG>


Re: Hubcaps

Jim Bollman
 

Yankee has nice reproduction in high dome. Unless you luck into a deal you probably will not find originals in perfect condition cheaper. Price goes up with condition and near perfect can be expensive.

Jim...

On Jun 30, 2021, at 3:27 PM, Jim Liberty <jimliberty356@...> wrote:

Hey guys, I am looking for five (5) excellent hubcaps for my '50 Hotshot. High or low dome OK. No dents, and painted "Crosley". Is this an impossible request. Here is my car. "Bearcat" motor, dual exhausts.                .......................Jim.
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Hubcaps

Jim Liberty
 

Hey guys, I am looking for five (5) excellent hubcaps for my '50 Hotshot. High or low dome OK. No dents, and painted "Crosley". Is this an impossible request. Here is my car. "Bearcat" motor, dual exhausts.                .......................Jim.


Re: 1952 Crosley CD Convertible

Jim Bollman
 

Congrats. Glad it found a home with a member that appreciates it for what it is. With all the early documentation it is a real fine and the license plate just proves it was all meant to be yours.

Jim...

On Jun 29, 2021, at 11:12 PM, paul <bikertrash@...> wrote:


I wound up being high bidder.  not only does the paperwork from TN exist but talking to the seller last night, he has paperwork tying the car to Tony Hulman of the Indianapolis Speedway. evidently it was kept at the family farm in Terre.Haught, IN. the seller got it in a package with other cars from the Estate of Tony's daughter Mari.  the day topped itself off when from Montana I stumbled onto a 1951 Ohio license plate for the car.  CD 30.. seemed very appropriate with the VIN of  CD 301923.  I jumped on it. once I see the car, I will have to decide what to do with it.  it may be nice enough to keep as a survivor if the 5200 miles is correct.  and, yes the title is in order, the seller is the local new Mercedes Benz dealer in that part of PA.  eveidently he mixes business with pleasure so the title is in the name of his dealership. also, if the title states 1952, I now have the experience of fighting the State of Ohio and winning to have the title corrected.  if I find out it was a left over and first sold in '52 I may just leave the title alone. there will never be any fooling you folks, it's really a "common" 52 and not the "rare" '52 it appears. (sic)   Paul Rinehart


On 6/29/2021 8:03 PM, Gabriel Haddad wrote:
Whomever bought that car got a good deal. Hopefully the title is in proper order.

On Sun, Jun 27, 2021, 9:21 PM novakpatty via groups.io <novakpatty=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
We sent a message to the person threw Ebay but he showed no interest in the paper work. Think that listing as a 52 makes it more rare so showing paper work showing for the 51 would tell everyone. But any Crosley person knows that the CD301923 number is a 51.




Re: 1952 Crosley CD Convertible

paul
 


OOPS:   "common"   '51

On 6/29/2021 11:12 PM, paul wrote:

I wound up being high bidder.  not only does the paperwork from TN exist but talking to the seller last night, he has paperwork tying the car to Tony Hulman of the Indianapolis Speedway. evidently it was kept at the family farm in Terre.Haught, IN. the seller got it in a package with other cars from the Estate of Tony's daughter Mari.  the day topped itself off when from Montana I stumbled onto a 1951 Ohio license plate for the car.  CD 30.. seemed very appropriate with the VIN of  CD 301923.  I jumped on it. once I see the car, I will have to decide what to do with it.  it may be nice enough to keep as a survivor if the 5200 miles is correct.  and, yes the title is in order, the seller is the local new Mercedes Benz dealer in that part of PA.  eveidently he mixes business with pleasure so the title is in the name of his dealership. also, if the title states 1952, I now have the experience of fighting the State of Ohio and winning to have the title corrected.  if I find out it was a left over and first sold in '52 I may just leave the title alone. there will never be any fooling you folks, it's really a "common" 52 and not the "rare" '52 it appears. (sic)   Paul Rinehart


Re: 1952 Crosley CD Convertible

paul
 


I wound up being high bidder.  not only does the paperwork from TN exist but talking to the seller last night, he has paperwork tying the car to Tony Hulman of the Indianapolis Speedway. evidently it was kept at the family farm in Terre.Haught, IN. the seller got it in a package with other cars from the Estate of Tony's daughter Mari.  the day topped itself off when from Montana I stumbled onto a 1951 Ohio license plate for the car.  CD 30.. seemed very appropriate with the VIN of  CD 301923.  I jumped on it. once I see the car, I will have to decide what to do with it.  it may be nice enough to keep as a survivor if the 5200 miles is correct.  and, yes the title is in order, the seller is the local new Mercedes Benz dealer in that part of PA.  eveidently he mixes business with pleasure so the title is in the name of his dealership. also, if the title states 1952, I now have the experience of fighting the State of Ohio and winning to have the title corrected.  if I find out it was a left over and first sold in '52 I may just leave the title alone. there will never be any fooling you folks, it's really a "common" 52 and not the "rare" '52 it appears. (sic)   Paul Rinehart


On 6/29/2021 8:03 PM, Gabriel Haddad wrote:
Whomever bought that car got a good deal. Hopefully the title is in proper order.

On Sun, Jun 27, 2021, 9:21 PM novakpatty via groups.io <novakpatty=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
We sent a message to the person threw Ebay but he showed no interest in the paper work. Think that listing as a 52 makes it more rare so showing paper work showing for the 51 would tell everyone. But any Crosley person knows that the CD301923 number is a 51.



Re: Gas Tanks

Gabriel Haddad
 

They look pretty custom to me. No support straps and the fuel pickup looks like its on the bottom. Very functional though.


On Tue, Jun 29, 2021, 8:07 PM Tom Sodaro <tomteach2@...> wrote:
Hello, Does anyone know if these were made and sold or if they are a custom job. I have 2 of them. If anyone has interest, please let me know. I will be at the show next week. Thanks Tom

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