Date   

Re: vapor lock issue

A50CROSLEYTRK@...
 

My truck would die after a short rest stop about when I would hit high gear. I think the gasoline in the fuel pump boiled and carb run out of fuel at about high. I added a shield under the fuel pump that seams to have worked.  I think I got it from Service Motors.
       Robert 

In a message dated 4/11/2020 7:17:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, bwright@... writes:

my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Re: vapor lock issue

Spock Arnold
 

Could you take a picture of how your fuel line is run under the hood.  Also look at how it runs from the tank to under the hood.  I had a wagon one time that someone had run the fuel line right next to the exhaust. 

On Apr 11, 2020 5:44 PM, bwright@... wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Re: vapor lock issue

Dennis Terdy
 

Brett,
I have a 47 too. Can't over emphasized cleaning behind the plates...mine were 3/4 filled! It brought the temp down big time!! Another very basic thought is changing where the fuel line comes from when it enters the fuel pump. My CC goes right between the block and the fan next to the distributor- strange!! and a hot spot. My CD is routed over the front of the valve cover --- but not between.... Might be a simple option to try. 
Dennis

On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 6:17 PM <bwright@...> wrote:
my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett



--
Dennis Terdy


vapor lock issue

Brett Wright
 

my 1947 Crosley CC with a replacement CI block has a stubborn tendency to vapor lock. It will do it after long climbs or even if I let it idle with the hood down for 15 minutes or so. It never does it cruising on the level. The cooling system has never boiled over but the gauge does move above normal or to about 3/4 range at least when it vapor locks. I know without a doubt the issue is vapor lock. I have done all of the following without changing the problem much.
1) changed the thermostat
2) recored the radiator with a much more efficient modern core(expensive)
3) rebuilt the water pump
4) installed a fuel pump shield and even wrapped that with aluminum foil for extra reflection
5) Verified the engine timing is spot on
6) doubled up on the isolation gasket between the fuel pump and the and the block
7) carburetor is rebuilt and adjusted properly
8) exhaust system is new from one end to the other
9) The radiator cap is original, I think, and is not a pressure cap

It has been suggested that I remove the square plates on the sides of the block to confirm there is not a sediment issue. I have not done that yet because the engine was recently rebuilt by others and hard to believe that was no cleaned. It is next on my list though. Engine runs good and has good power. I am open to any and all suggestions and wondering if this is a common problem? It is driving me nearly nuts. 
Brett


Re: Where does oil pressure attach to block?

Steve Perry
 

Thanks Butch...


Re: Starting Problems in Morning

Andy Farley
 

I know it's been a while since the original post, but I learned something recently about the hard starting problem. I had a similar problem starting the engine after it sat for a day or two. I noticed that after I parked my CC I usually smelled gas for a day or two. There was never any visible leak. I went  through and tightened all fuel line connections around the engine compartment. The fuel smell went away but was surprising was that the hard starting problem got better. I think the fuel was evaporating out of the fuel line both between the fuel pump and the carburetor and from the line before the fuel pump. 
Hope this helps.


Re: Where does oil pressure attach to block?

Butch
 

Passenger's side, 3/4s or so, toward the rear, of the CRANKCASE, not the block.

Butch

On 4/7/2020 1:22 PM, Steve Perry wrote:
Hello everyone
Getting ready to attempt to get the engine running. Can someone let me know where I should hook a gauge to read oil pressure?
Thanks
Steve
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Where does oil pressure attach to block?

Steve Perry
 

Hello everyone 
Getting ready to attempt to get the engine running. Can someone let me know where I should hook a gauge to read oil pressure?
Thanks 
Steve


Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...>
 

Body style: CC


On April 5, 2020 at 4:45 PM "Spock Arnold via groups.io" <tmkldwwj@...> wrote:

John
   What is the body style cc or cd? There have been a number of cars sold through the years that have had other Vin placed on them.  There was a whole group sold in the recent past at a reputable auction that every one of them had incorrect vin.  Some have a vin on the front cross member but I've only seen it a couple times.  It your title matches the vin, I wouldn't get too worried.  

On Apr 5, 2020 4:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:
Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number


Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...>
 

Rounded fender


On April 5, 2020 at 6:51 PM "Richard Williams via groups.io" <rwms_2002@...> wrote:

 
 
your 47 has round front fenders. the 49 has square front fenders. Rich W

 
On Sunday, April 5, 2020, 02:44:47 PM PDT, christopher cochrane via groups.io <pisarunner@...> wrote:


How about a pic?

On Apr 5, 2020, at 1:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:

Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number
 


 


 


Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

Richard Williams
 

your 47 has round front fenders. the 49 has square front fenders. Rich W

On Sunday, April 5, 2020, 02:44:47 PM PDT, christopher cochrane via groups.io <pisarunner@...> wrote:


How about a pic?

On Apr 5, 2020, at 1:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:

Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number


Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

christopher cochrane
 

How about a pic?

On Apr 5, 2020, at 1:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:

Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number


Re: 51 Pick-up no spark

dave p
 

most likely, the points are oxidized.  File ( or sand paper) them.  Coils don't usually go bad just sitting. disconnect the coil wire at the distributor,  and use a test light to see if they are opening and closing the current flow correctly

         Dave at OldSchool Restorations of North Alabama


Re: 51 Pick-up no spark

L.E. Hardee
 

When I go to start a points car that has been sitting, it is a given that the points have a film preventing them from making contact.  I just pop the distributor cap and the rotor to gain access to the points.  I then rotate the engine until the points are fully closed.  With the ignition switch on, using a screwdriver I open and shut the points without grounding the points.  If I get a good spark pop across the points, then I know I have fire at the plugs.  If not, which is usually the case, I first check the ignition circuit by grounding the points to the distributor.  If I get a spark then, I know the ignition wiring is okay but the points have a glaze coating.  With the switch still on, I use the screwdriver to rub the points against one another until I start seeing sparks when the film is rubbed off.  I open an shut the points a few times to be sure I have a strong blue spark.  Put the rotor and cap back on and start the engine.

An old mechanic told me 55 years ago when I was a teenager to never use a points file.  The tungsten points are harder than the steel file.   Steel from the file embed in the points and will cause them to fail prematurely.  Rubbing the points against each other removes the film just as well and no steel bits are transferred.  I have used this technique almost a thousand times over the years and it has always worked.


On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 4:35 PM nobadrivers <scanner2@...> wrote:
If you had a condenser laying around you could try it to see if you get spark. It should still work.  It would just be the wrong capacitance or won't have the correct mounting bracket but you are just trying it checking for spark for now.  if it won't bolt onto the distributor just ground the outside of it with a jumper wire or something for now just to check for spark. 


Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

Jim Bollman
 

Some have the Serial Number on the frame rail behind the front passenger wheel. Again not a lot of them and it is very faint when you find one.

On Apr 5, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Spock Arnold via groups.io <tmkldwwj@...> wrote:

John
   What is the body style cc or cd? There have been a number of cars sold through the years that have had other Vin placed on them.  There was a whole group sold in the recent past at a reputable auction that every one of them had incorrect vin.  Some have a vin on the front cross member but I've only seen it a couple times.  It your title matches the vin, I wouldn't get too worried.  

On Apr 5, 2020 4:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:
Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number



Re: Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

Spock Arnold
 

John
   What is the body style cc or cd? There have been a number of cars sold through the years that have had other Vin placed on them.  There was a whole group sold in the recent past at a reputable auction that every one of them had incorrect vin.  Some have a vin on the front cross member but I've only seen it a couple times.  It your title matches the vin, I wouldn't get too worried.  

On Apr 5, 2020 4:22 PM, John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...> wrote:
Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number


Re: 51 Pick-up no spark

nobadrivers
 

If you had a condenser laying around you could try it to see if you get spark. It should still work.  It would just be the wrong capacitance or won't have the correct mounting bracket but you are just trying it checking for spark for now.  if it won't bolt onto the distributor just ground the outside of it with a jumper wire or something for now just to check for spark. 


Re: 51 Pick-up no spark

Jim Bollman
 

Be careful with the new condenser, many of the new ones have thinner mounting tabs and the original screw that holds it will go in an extra thread and can hit the rotating advance weights in the the distributor. If you're lucky it only twists the distributor around, unlucky and it can break a tooth in the bottom end or bend the shaft.

On Apr 5, 2020, at 3:59 PM, HeBme2 via groups.io <HeBme2@...> wrote:

I cleaned the points, installed a new coil and still no spark.  I was going to change the condenser but the auto parts store did not have the correct type.  I will buy a condenser Monday and hopefully that's it.

Jamie


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Bollman <Jim@...>
To: Crosley-Gang <Crosley-Gang@groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Apr 5, 2020 12:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Crosley-Gang] 51 Pick-up no spark

You say the points are good. Do they just look good or did you file them? After a fhey years some times the points get a coating on them, they look good but they don't work unless you file the coating off.

On Apr 5, 2020, at 11:39 AM, HeBme2 via groups.io <HeBme2@...> wrote:

My Crosley has been in storage for 3 years.  I tried starting it but have no spark.  I cleaned up the connections, points are good but still no spark.  I am thinking it may be the coil.  Any thoughts?  Once I get it running I will be putting it up for sale.  Thanks  Jamie



Re: 51 Pick-up no spark

nobadrivers
 

Correct, that's why I mentioned to check for voltage on the primary negative side of the coil.  On a negative ground system you would be checking the positive primary wire on the coil.  That gets fed from the ignition switch which supplies voltage to the coil.  If no voltage there with the key on you can replace everything under the hood and you will still have no spark. 


Where else to find a Crosley's VIN

John Schneiderman <john-schneiderman@...>
 

Where else can one find the vehicle's VIN/Serial number, other than the serial number plate found in the upper center of the engines firewall?
My 1947 Crosley Sedan, has a remanufacturers plate  C47205441, which is also on the vehicle's title.  But it has a CIBA engine, not a CoBRA, it has white wheels, not the Chinese Red..
So I'm wondering if it is a 1949 instead. Would love to know the original serial number