Date   

Re: Electric CD Wagon Project

 

Welcome Bruce!
     I am fairly new to Crosley’s too, and when I purchased mine in November,( a 1949 CD station wagon that the previous owner had converted to a panel van ) I was thinking these cars would be excellent candidates for converting to electric. Please be sure and document your progress. We also have a Facebook page which might make it easier to document to ( Crosley Automobiles fun little cars ). I will be following your progress with a keen interest. Even though I have not been a club member for very long, I can tell you that the people here are fantastic. They have been extremely helpful to me, and very patient with all of my newbie questions. I am not too far from you and live in Orange City Florida. We will be having a meet in Sarasota on Feb. 22nd if you are interested in attending. Contact Dave Anspach for details ( his email is on the club website ) if you would like to attend. Glad you are here!
-Tim King


On Jan 21, 2020, at 10:35 AM, bruce.derenski via Groups.Io <bruce.derenski@...> wrote:

Greetings, fellow Crosley fans! My name is Bruce; I'm a brand new club member from the Tampa area. My car is a 1952 Super CD Wagon, currently in a jillion pieces while I tackle the frame and body work. Overall, the car is in great shape and is a very good candidate for the type of restoration work I do. I've lost count, but I think this is the 8th body-off restoration that I've tackled. It's my first Crosley, though.

At some risk of offending purists, I've decided to convert this car to electric drive. I recently procured the motor, controller, assorted converters, wiring and contactors. The plan is to be extremely respectful of the originality and current condition of the vehicle, and keep any modifications non-permanent. That means using existing mounts, the existing clutch, transmission and rear axle, and not drilling, welding or grinding any changes into the car. I've studied this conversion for about 4 months, and I'm confident it can be done. The Crosley is a superb candidate...it's lightweight, mechanically simple, and has minimal electric loading. With modern lithium batteries, the weight gain should not be a problem. The wagon configuration offers ample room for the extra equipment, and the engine compartment is very spacious once the old running gear is out of the way.

Before I get to the fun part, though, there is the normal dirty restoration work to tackle. I plan to separate the body and frame this week and do all the underside repair and refurbishment over the next couple of months. Then the bodywork and paint job, aiming to install the electric stuff over the Fall and into the winter. This is a long-term effort, with the project probably not seeing a road test for at least a year, and more if I get bogged down. I'm excited about trying something new, and I'm committed to doing nothing to the car that can't be un-done if I ever decide to rebuild the original engine and put it all back to factory.

I'm also looking forward to meeting Crosley fans and working with the community here to make the car something that the Crosley Club can be proud of. Thanks in advance for your assistance and hospitality. Regards, Bruce D


Re: Electric CD Wagon Project

Jim Bollman
 

Sounds like a great project. We have at least two electric Crosleys in the club now. A FarmOroad in California and a wagon on Long Island. 

Do you have any estimates of speed and distances with the conversion you are planning?

Please keep us up to date on progress.

The Florida region is planning a gathering to reorganize on Feb. 22 in Sarasota, contact  Dave Anspach <tmkldwwj@...> for more details.

Jim...

On Jan 21, 2020, at 10:08 AM, bruce.derenski via Groups.Io <bruce.derenski@...> wrote:

Greetings, fellow Crosley fans! My name is Bruce; I'm a brand new club member from the Tampa area. My car is a 1952 Super CD Wagon, currently in a jillion pieces while I tackle the frame and body work. Overall, the car is in great shape and is a very good candidate for the type of restoration work I do. I've lost count, but I think this is the 8th body-off restoration that I've tackled. It's my first Crosley, though.

At some risk of offending purists, I've decided to convert this car to electric drive. I recently procured the motor, controller, assorted converters, wiring and contactors. The plan is to be extremely respectful of the originality and current condition of the vehicle, and keep any modifications non-permanent. That means using existing mounts, the existing clutch, transmission and rear axle, and not drilling, welding or grinding any changes into the car. I've studied this conversion for about 4 months, and I'm confident it can be done. The Crosley is a superb candidate...it's lightweight, mechanically simple, and has minimal electric loading. With modern lithium batteries, the weight gain should not be a problem. The wagon configuration offers ample room for the extra equipment, and the engine compartment is very spacious once the old running gear is out of the way.

Before I get to the fun part, though, there is the normal dirty restoration work to tackle. I plan to separate the body and frame this week and do all the underside repair and refurbishment over the next couple of months. Then the bodywork and paint job, aiming to install the electric stuff over the Fall and into the winter. This is a long-term effort, with the project probably not seeing a road test for at least a year, and more if I get bogged down. I'm excited about trying something new, and I'm committed to doing nothing to the car that can't be un-done if I ever decide to rebuild the original engine and put it all back to factory.

I'm also looking forward to meeting Crosley fans and working with the community here to make the car something that the Crosley Club can be proud of. Thanks in advance for your assistance and hospitality. Regards, Bruce D


Electric CD Wagon Project

Bruce Derenski
 

Greetings, fellow Crosley fans! My name is Bruce; I'm a brand new club member from the Tampa area. My car is a 1952 Super CD Wagon, currently in a jillion pieces while I tackle the frame and body work. Overall, the car is in great shape and is a very good candidate for the type of restoration work I do. I've lost count, but I think this is the 8th body-off restoration that I've tackled. It's my first Crosley, though.

At some risk of offending purists, I've decided to convert this car to electric drive. I recently procured the motor, controller, assorted converters, wiring and contactors. The plan is to be extremely respectful of the originality and current condition of the vehicle, and keep any modifications non-permanent. That means using existing mounts, the existing clutch, transmission and rear axle, and not drilling, welding or grinding any changes into the car. I've studied this conversion for about 4 months, and I'm confident it can be done. The Crosley is a superb candidate...it's lightweight, mechanically simple, and has minimal electric loading. With modern lithium batteries, the weight gain should not be a problem. The wagon configuration offers ample room for the extra equipment, and the engine compartment is very spacious once the old running gear is out of the way.

Before I get to the fun part, though, there is the normal dirty restoration work to tackle. I plan to separate the body and frame this week and do all the underside repair and refurbishment over the next couple of months. Then the bodywork and paint job, aiming to install the electric stuff over the Fall and into the winter. This is a long-term effort, with the project probably not seeing a road test for at least a year, and more if I get bogged down. I'm excited about trying something new, and I'm committed to doing nothing to the car that can't be un-done if I ever decide to rebuild the original engine and put it all back to factory.

I'm also looking forward to meeting Crosley fans and working with the community here to make the car something that the Crosley Club can be proud of. Thanks in advance for your assistance and hospitality. Regards, Bruce D


Re: Fuel Pump Installation

 

Thanx everyone.  Those were very good answers. I thought that was the way to do it, but I didn't want to cause damage on my first try.


Re: Fuel Pump Installation

Butch
 

Tilden,

The fuel pump can be difficult to install and it is possible to install the arm incorrectly, not easy but possible and damage WILL occur.
While carefully feeling the lobe on the back of the camshaft gear, rotate the engine BY HAND, do NOT use the starter, until the lobe is furthest away from the pump mounting hole.
Lean the pump back, until the arm will barely clear the inside edge if the engine, bring it up, then tilt the pump upright to correct mounting position.
If the arm is in the correct position, you should feel some spring pressure resisting you. Start both bolts in and press the pump further into place, just to make sure it doesn't bind.
It's much easier to see and do, with the cam comer off, but that usually requires a new cam cover gasket.
A little grease on the arm, or cam gear lobe,  is also a good idea.
I hope this makes sense, it's easier for me to do it, than describe how to do it.

Butch

On 1/18/2020 10:23 PM, crosleyshortsport wrote:
Always remember, there is no ignorant or stupid or dumb question if you do not know the answer. It is how we learn. Please join the Crosley family at the Crosley Automobile Club 2020 "The Vision Continues" national meet. July 6 - 11 Fulton County Fairgrounds, Wauseon, Ohio.

On Sat, Jan 18, 2020, 8:04 PM dale@... <Dale@...> wrote:
The arm rides on the camshaft directly.  The can has/is an eccentric and pumps the pump.  Actually the fuel pump will only mount one way.


On Jan 18, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Tilden Drinkard <TILDENLD@...> wrote:

I just purchased a tidy ’52 Super Station Wagon. It had a 12 volt electric fuel pump installed on the left front fender. I purchased a new original equipment mechanical one from Service Motors. Just a completely ignorant question: The pump bar should be placed vertically & between the cam & the pump (or right of the cam), not below & to the left of the cam, correct?


Re: Fuel Pump Installation

crosleyshortsport
 

Always remember, there is no ignorant or stupid or dumb question if you do not know the answer. It is how we learn. Please join the Crosley family at the Crosley Automobile Club 2020 "The Vision Continues" national meet. July 6 - 11 Fulton County Fairgrounds, Wauseon, Ohio.


On Sat, Jan 18, 2020, 8:04 PM dale@... <Dale@...> wrote:
The arm rides on the camshaft directly.  The can has/is an eccentric and pumps the pump.  Actually the fuel pump will only mount one way.


On Jan 18, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Tilden Drinkard <TILDENLD@...> wrote:

I just purchased a tidy ’52 Super Station Wagon. It had a 12 volt electric fuel pump installed on the left front fender. I purchased a new original equipment mechanical one from Service Motors. Just a completely ignorant question: The pump bar should be placed vertically & between the cam & the pump (or right of the cam), not below & to the left of the cam, correct?

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Re: Fuel Pump Installation

dale@servicemotors.net
 

The arm rides on the camshaft directly.  The can has/is an eccentric and pumps the pump.  Actually the fuel pump will only mount one way.


On Jan 18, 2020, at 3:17 PM, Tilden Drinkard <TILDENLD@...> wrote:

I just purchased a tidy ’52 Super Station Wagon. It had a 12 volt electric fuel pump installed on the left front fender. I purchased a new original equipment mechanical one from Service Motors. Just a completely ignorant question: The pump bar should be placed vertically & between the cam & the pump (or right of the cam), not below & to the left of the cam, correct?

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Fuel Pump Installation

 

I just purchased a tidy ’52 Super Station Wagon. It had a 12 volt electric fuel pump installed on the left front fender. I purchased a new original equipment mechanical one from Service Motors. Just a completely ignorant question: The pump bar should be placed vertically & between the cam & the pump (or right of the cam), not below & to the left of the cam, correct?

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


Re: Surprise

nobadrivers
 

Got it!

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of James Welther via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 12:50 PM
To: Crosley-Gang
Subject: [Crosley-Gang] Surprise

 


Guess what came in the mail today

Attachments:


Re: Surprise

Barry Smedley
 

It’s a good one!

 

   Barry Smedley

 

From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of James Welther via Groups.Io
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 12:50 PM
To: Crosley-Gang
Subject: [Crosley-Gang] Surprise

 


Guess what came in the mail today

Attachments:

This message contains confidential information intended solely for the use of the addressee(s) named above. Any review, disclosure, distribution, copying or use of the information by others is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please advise the sender by immediate reply and delete the original message. (English) Ce message contient des informations confidentielles destinées uniquement à l'usage du(des) destinataire(s) nommé(s) ci-dessus. Toute consultation, distribution, copie et utilisation du contenu de ce message est strictement prohibée. Si vous avez reçu ce message par erreur, SVP avisez l'expéditeur par réponse immédiate et effacez le message original. (French)


Surprise

James Welther
 



Guess what came in the mail today


Re: Rod Bearing and oil pump Fun

Butch
 

Mike,

I'll try to answer all of your questions, in one reply.

There are several different versions of oil pumps used in Crosleys, as you've found out, at least one version has no bushings and is pretty much non-serviceable. Plus it had the least volume capacity. Find a later style core and rebuild it. The upper bushing, on the newer style pumps, can readily be seen, under the external drive gear.
The basic rebuild isn't hard, I've done many dozens of them. There are some "upgrade tricks", that are a little more complicated, require some machine work and are not really required for "normal" Crosley engines and Crosley driving.

Rod bearings, there were "copper based" rod bearings, used in the Crosley engines, the military especially used them. The fact that yours shows all copper, with no tin/lead Babbitt color showing, makes me think that this might be your case. Plasti-gage is your friend.

The crankshaft specs are: all of the rods and the front 4 mains are 1.375 and the rear main is 1.500. They may be listed in the manual as inches, rather than decimals. I don't recall and my manual isn't close by.

Yes, oversize/undersize bearings are available. When we owned Service Motors, we had new rod and main bearings made in: Standard, 0.010, 0.020, 0.030 and 0.040. In addition to those new ones, there are still some Old Stock bearings out there in 0.001, 0.002 and 0.005. If you find some, check the condition carefully. They are OLD, and have been stored in less than ideal conditions, but many are still quite serviceable, especially for Crosley service.

If I've missed anything, feel free to ask. You can also drop me an e-mail, butch46988@.... I can answer more there, in more detail, without taking up board space.

Butch

On 1/16/2020 10:05 AM, Mike S wrote:
Hmmm...looking thru the shop manual, there are no specs listed for the diameters of the crank journals.  Can the limits be found anywhere?  
_._,_._,_




Re: Rod Bearing Fun

Mike S
 

Hmmm...looking thru the shop manual, there are no specs listed for the diameters of the crank journals.  Can the limits be found anywhere?  


Re: Rod Bearing Fun

Mike S
 

Are undersizes available?  I'll plastigage all the journals tomorrow & see what I'm looking at.


Re: Oil Pump Fun

Mike S
 

After it is good & warmed up going down the road the gage is showing a little over 5lbs and when you pull up to a stop sign it's just above zero.  But the motor never rattles or knocks.  After the heavier oil & the spacer on the pressure spring it would start out at 45psi but as it warms up the pressure goes down.  


Re: Rod Bearing Fun

dale@servicemotors.net
 

Bearings are easy to get
Service motors has them 866-449-0029.


On Jan 15, 2020, at 4:29 PM, Mike S <miso7@...> wrote:

While pulling the oil pump for a possible rebuild, I was fingering the rod bearings & thought that a couple of them "felt" loose.  I pulled #3 and am not pleased with the way it looks.  Besides all the speckles on the surface, the bearing has a pronounced "copper" look to it (but I've not been around Crosley bearings before....just giant studebaker ones).  Tomorrow I'll plasti-gage it to see what the clearance really is.  The crank journal looks smooth with only a couple tiny marks.  

The thing that really puzzles me is this motor was very quiet with no rattling or knocking.  What options are there for replacement bearings?
Mike S

Attachments:


Rod Bearing Fun

Mike S
 

While pulling the oil pump for a possible rebuild, I was fingering the rod bearings & thought that a couple of them "felt" loose.  I pulled #3 and am not pleased with the way it looks.  Besides all the speckles on the surface, the bearing has a pronounced "copper" look to it (but I've not been around Crosley bearings before....just giant studebaker ones).  Tomorrow I'll plasti-gage it to see what the clearance really is.  The crank journal looks smooth with only a couple tiny marks.  

The thing that really puzzles me is this motor was very quiet with no rattling or knocking.  What options are there for replacement bearings?
Mike S


Re: Oil Pump Fun

dale@servicemotors.net
 

What was your pressure, at idle and ar 2500 rpm??


On Jan 15, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Mike S <miso7@...> wrote:

More Oil Pump Fun....Our 48 has also suffered from low oil pressure after it's up to operating temps. Adding a .100 spacer to the bypass spring, and switching to heavier oil helped, but not enough. I bought gaskets & bushings from Dave Edwards & tore into it today. What I found was a pump with no bushings, some wear on the main shaft and housing that allows the main gear to barely rub the housing in one area, and some wear on the gear teeth. What are the best fixes?.....replace with a later style pump?....oversize shaft & bore the housing?....

Attachments:


Oil Pump Fun

Mike S
 

More Oil Pump Fun....Our 48 has also suffered from low oil pressure after it's up to operating temps. Adding a .100 spacer to the bypass spring, and switching to heavier oil helped, but not enough. I bought gaskets & bushings from Dave Edwards & tore into it today. What I found was a pump with no bushings, some wear on the main shaft and housing that allows the main gear to barely rub the housing in one area, and some wear on the gear teeth. What are the best fixes?.....replace with a later style pump?....oversize shaft & bore the housing?....


Re: Crosley Regions

Brian Dlapa
 

I will have more details they are sending me details

On Wednesday, January 15, 2020, 06:50:55 AM CST, <parkhunter@...> wrote:


What are the details on the Saturday show? Probably going to be hard for me, since I work Sundays and it’s 4+ hours away. But keep us posted and who knows?

 Park