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Re: farmoroad seat

crosleyshortsport
 

Re: farmoroad seat

crosleyshortsport
 

Here are some photos of the seat frame Brian


On Sun, Oct 13, 2019, 7:17 PM Brian Dlapa via Groups.Io <treestumpbvd=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
jeff is there a bar across the back of the seat or do they hook to the angle iron

On Friday, October 11, 2019, 07:15:54 PM CDT, crosleyshortsport <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:


One more, and this is 1 inch tubing.

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:14 PM jeffrey ackerman <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:
More pics

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:10 PM crosleyshortsport via Groups.Io <crosleyshortsport=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Re: Steering wheel removal

L.E. Hardee
 

The washer halves may fold or slip and damage the steering wheel.  I believe the bearing separator idea, while along the same principal, is superior in that the two bolts keep the halves from folding and the added advantage that the little taper on the backside of  the separator may act as a wedge between the steering wheel and the steering column as you tighten the two halves.  Any extra separating force is a benefit as steering wheels can be hard to get off.  I attached a picture of a bearing separator.  They are not too expensive to purchase.  Also some auto parts stores have a tool lending program for their customers.



On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 3:51 PM Ron D. <rdole417@...> wrote:
The next thing I will try is this. I took a large flat washer, and cut it in half. I want to slip the two halves behind the wheel, and use a 3 jaw puller. I already have a thick 5/8 fine nut screwed on, to protect the threads. This way, the jaws will pull on the metal washer instead of the plastic of the wheel hub. The washer I cut was too thick to fit between the wheel hub and steering tube.  I then went camping for 4 days, so I hope to get the washer ground down a little thinner tomorrow. 

Now that I read Butch's idea, I think this should work about the same.

Re: Steering wheel removal

Ron D.
 

The next thing I will try is this. I took a large flat washer, and cut it in half. I want to slip the two halves behind the wheel, and use a 3 jaw puller. I already have a thick 5/8 fine nut screwed on, to protect the threads. This way, the jaws will pull on the metal washer instead of the plastic of the wheel hub. The washer I cut was too thick to fit between the wheel hub and steering tube.  I then went camping for 4 days, so I hope to get the washer ground down a little thinner tomorrow. 

Now that I read Butch's idea, I think this should work about the same.

Re: farmoroad seat

Brian Dlapa
 

jeff is there a bar across the back of the seat or do they hook to the angle iron

On Friday, October 11, 2019, 07:15:54 PM CDT, crosleyshortsport <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:


One more, and this is 1 inch tubing.

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:14 PM jeffrey ackerman <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:
More pics

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:10 PM crosleyshortsport via Groups.Io <crosleyshortsport=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Tim Hamblen
 

Here's something I have thought about. What if you took an extra drum (would need a front and rear) glue a good abrasive paper inside the drum . slip the drum on the shoes and backing plate, button it down and start spinning the wheel / tire and basically "grind in " the proper fit ? Right now I'm just at a point where I have the new lining/shoes in place and am just driving it around and "grinding" it to fit. As they start loosening up , adjust a bit tighter and keep going.There's been so many shoes relined and not arc ground, that's what we are all doing anyway.

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Kenny Acheson
 

Check McMaster Carr

On Oct 12, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Kenn Cahill <drkenncahill@...> wrote:

We have a brake shoe arc grinder, but are in need of the abrasive strips that are necessary for its operation. Does anyone have a source of these abrasive strips?
Kenn Cahill


Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Kenn Cahill
 

We have a brake shoe arc grinder, but are in need of the abrasive strips that are necessary for its operation. Does anyone have a source of these abrasive strips?
Kenn Cahill

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Butch
 

Turning the drums, on a lathe, (referring to the rears, especially) is a bit more difficult than it appears.

You must have a good way to center the drum on its axis, and keep it true thru its travel, while cutting.

Getting a good cut finish (remember, you are boring), without chatter marks, can be tough, but is doable with patience and practice. A very rigid setup is mandatory.

Butch

On 10/12/2019 8:00 AM, Tim Hamblen via Groups.Io wrote:
I would think that out there in places are old drum lathes and grinders available . Back in the 70s the Gooberment cracked down and ordered the grinders out of shops due to asbestos dust. Well, no more asbestos, so the grinders would be OK, although I would strongly advise a good respirator. As I have a metal working lathe I could even turn the small CC drums on it, just need to arc them.
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Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Tim Hamblen
 

That's the spirit Mike. BTW look on fleabay. There's manuals for auction and sale there for the grinders. Not bad price either, but I'd even bet there's stuff on the 'Net on how to do it.

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Tim Hamblen
 

I would think that out there in places are old drum lathes and grinders available . Back in the 70s the Gooberment cracked down and ordered the grinders out of shops due to asbestos dust. Well, no more asbestos, so the grinders would be OK, although I would strongly advise a good respirator. As I have a metal working lathe I could even turn the small CC drums on it, just need to arc them.

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Michael Braun
 

In response to Tim Hamblen, I have an old Brake shoe arc grinder although I have never used it.  I have a 47 Pick Up with hydraulic brakes but the truck doesn’t stop worth a damn.  I suspect the shoes don’t meet the drum as was discussed.  If someone is near Dover, DE and knows how to use the grinder, I would be glad to host a “brake shoe grinding session”. 

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

David Reina
 

Hi Fred,

Thanks for writing and also calling with the info about the long and short shoe positions.  I’m up in Boston tonight at my father in laws house where I’ve had my 47 sedan tucked away in his garage.  Last night I finished riveting four pairs of linings.  I had brought the car up from New York two summers ago to participate in Charles Gould’s three days microcars event.  Part of the event involved a tour through MA of almost 100 miles. Just before bring the car to Boston I had installed new brake cables and new metallic woven material shoes. I worked several days trying to get good stopping performance from the new parts but could not achieve a crisp stop. During the microcar tour I was not happy with the braking. It was scary when there was a stop sign at the bottom of a hill. Every time we stopped on the tour I was under the car trying to adjust the brakes tighter. I was hoping they would improve as they bedded in. No luck and on the return part of the tour a front lining came off the shoe (probably from heat softening the epoxy bonding glue). This locked up the front wheel and upon inspection caused the cast iron shoe to break in many parts.  I hate to admit but it’s taken me two years to get it together and try and fix the brakes. I did use 3/16” material which I bought some years ago.  My friend Jak gave me a bunch of old brake shoes so I could reline. them in my shop and have them ready for when I got to Boston.  My cars shoes were cast iron. I know that there is also a steel style shoe and I also noticed that there is a third varient. It’s a cast iron shoe which uses a different shape where the shoe meets the cam. Instead of the plain flat edge this other style shoe has a half circle cut away on the center of the cam edge which fits against a different style cam. I’d never heard of this before.  For my job I only used the straight edge style   I had a good selection of shoes to pick from. All but one was riveted. Two in the batch had broken in the past and were brazed. I didn’t use them although the had held up ok. One  shoe was glued and that shoe had no rivet holes drilled through. All the riveted shoes were about 8 1/8” in length and centered on the shoes. I didn’t have enough information last night to figure out long and short linings. It seemed that if you go with a short lining you will miss one rivet hole on the shoe.  I am concerned hearing from the discussion that the 3/16” material may be to tight to fit in the drum.   Again, thank you for your advise. I’m hoping that by Sunday I will have working brakes.  Dave

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Butch
 

We had one but sold it when we sold Service Motors.

Another problem, with the 3/16" inch lining (as I recall), often it won't even fit in the drum, without doing some arcing/grinding on it.

Without the shoe arcing machine, it's a major pain fitting them.

Butch

On 10/11/2019 9:44 PM, Tim Hamblen via Groups.Io wrote:
Here's the problem with brake shoes and linings today. No one arc grinds shoes. Either they don't know how or simply don't have a grinder. I'd love to find an old AAMCO grinder.You just put linings on the shoes without arc grinding the shoes and the shoes are only touching the drums in a very small area. I think this is the single biggest problem with Crosley brakes.It matters not if you have 9" or 8" of lining if they are only touching the drum an inch or two.The very first thing my old auto mechanics teacher?? taught us about brakes was arc grinding shoes.That was 48 years ago. There has to be a grinder out there somewhere.
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Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: Question about installing new brake linings on a 47

Tim Hamblen
 

Here's the problem with brake shoes and linings today. No one arc grinds shoes. Either they don't know how or simply don't have a grinder. I'd love to find an old AAMCO grinder.You just put linings on the shoes without arc grinding the shoes and the shoes are only touching the drums in a very small area. I think this is the single biggest problem with Crosley brakes.It matters not if you have 9" or 8" of lining if they are only touching the drum an inch or two.The very first thing my old auto mechanics teacher  taught us about brakes was arc grinding shoes.That was 48 years ago. There has to be a grinder out there somewhere.

Re: farmoroad seat

crosleyshortsport
 

One more, and this is 1 inch tubing.


On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:14 PM jeffrey ackerman <crosleyshortsport@...> wrote:
More pics

On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:10 PM crosleyshortsport via Groups.Io <crosleyshortsport=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Re: farmoroad seat

crosleyshortsport
 

More pics


On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 8:10 PM crosleyshortsport via Groups.Io <crosleyshortsport=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Re: farmoroad seat

crosleyshortsport
 

Re: Crosley wheels

crosleyshortsport
 

In reference to the wheels looking nicer on a Super sport, At one time, club member, Jim Oliver made up several sets of very well made spacers for the rear hubs. I wad fortunate enough to purchase a set, and it really does make a big difference with handling and looks.


On Fri, Oct 11, 2019, 12:25 PM Jerry and Kathy <jkmcc@...> wrote:
Here are a couple of pictures of the back of the recessed wheel as requested
I also noticed this one does not have the 2 rivets at each point where the hub meets the outer rim.

Re: Crosley wheels

Jerry and Kathy
 

Here are a couple of pictures of the back of the recessed wheel as requested
I also noticed this one does not have the 2 rivets at each point where the hub meets the outer rim.