Re: 51 Pick-up no spark


L.E. Hardee
 

When I go to start a points car that has been sitting, it is a given that the points have a film preventing them from making contact.  I just pop the distributor cap and the rotor to gain access to the points.  I then rotate the engine until the points are fully closed.  With the ignition switch on, using a screwdriver I open and shut the points without grounding the points.  If I get a good spark pop across the points, then I know I have fire at the plugs.  If not, which is usually the case, I first check the ignition circuit by grounding the points to the distributor.  If I get a spark then, I know the ignition wiring is okay but the points have a glaze coating.  With the switch still on, I use the screwdriver to rub the points against one another until I start seeing sparks when the film is rubbed off.  I open an shut the points a few times to be sure I have a strong blue spark.  Put the rotor and cap back on and start the engine.

An old mechanic told me 55 years ago when I was a teenager to never use a points file.  The tungsten points are harder than the steel file.   Steel from the file embed in the points and will cause them to fail prematurely.  Rubbing the points against each other removes the film just as well and no steel bits are transferred.  I have used this technique almost a thousand times over the years and it has always worked.


On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 4:35 PM nobadrivers <scanner2@...> wrote:
If you had a condenser laying around you could try it to see if you get spark. It should still work.  It would just be the wrong capacitance or won't have the correct mounting bracket but you are just trying it checking for spark for now.  if it won't bolt onto the distributor just ground the outside of it with a jumper wire or something for now just to check for spark. 

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