Re: Raising the Body Off the Frame and Rolling It Over

Bruce Derenski

Thanks, Ron. It didn't cost much and it didn't take long. I had to drill 6 holes, but I keep track of those and will fill them all in when the day comes. It's worth every penny and every minute it took to make it. I'm taking the undercoating off the bottom, and the thought of doing that on my back in the driveway still gives me the jitters. It's terrifically nice to pull up a chair in the garage next to the car, put on Fifties on Five and go at the undercoating with a heat gun and scraper without dirt and hot tar dropping onto my face. I stripped more undercoating in 4 hours than I did in four weeks on my last frame-off job.

Some comments:
-You want the car to sit as low as possible when you roll it over, so it isn't unstable when it's up in the air. So mounting the jacks so you can lower the car after the frame is out is important.
-You want to take the wheels off and roll the car on the drums. I didn't have the drums on the rear, so I rolled it on Harbor Freight "wheel skates" and it worked fine.
- If you try to roll the frame on the wheels/tires, you will really have to lift the body high in the air for the shock towers (the highest point of the frame) to clear the rear footwells (the lowest part of the body). If your rig is that high, then you won't be able to lower it all the way down, since there is only about 18" of travel in the trailer jacks. And if it can't lower way down, it will be very difficult to tilt, and it won't be stable when you do tilt it.
-Watch your overhead clearance. When the car is tilting, the overall rig height is quite tall. I have 11 ft ceilings in the garage, but I only had about 7' under the garage door tracks. When I tilted the car, the rear driver's side vertical support bumped the garage door track. I lowered it back to the ground, lopped about 8" off the vertical support, and tilted it again. Nothing hit.
- You can see those curved ends on the vertical support extensions on the passenger side. They're important. They take the strain on that side off of the jacks when the passenger side is fully lowered. I was concerned that the flimsy part of the trailer jack (the fork that holds the wheel) would bend if the jack was side-loaded. Also, if you leave the passenger side wheels in contact with the ground, the whole shebang will roll sideways when you try to lift it.
-Even though I had a pretty good angle on with the jacks alone, there was still some weight to lift. I'd put it under 50 pounds. I could have jacked up the driver's side more, but I was out of blocks. The more angle you get with the jacks, the less weight you have to lift. But keep in mind that the jack travel is less with more angle, and the steeper the angle gets, the less effective the jack is, since it will be working more sideways than up/down.
-I should have used a friend on a strap or rope to help control the rollover. As it rolled over, it wasn't violent or anything, but it certainly went quick. A little bit of braking force would have been less dramatic.

Hope this helps. Have fun!

On February 24, 2020 at 7:46 AM, "Ron D." <rdole417@...> wrote:

   I took all of your pics, saved them to my desktop, where I was able to rotate and zoom each one to get a better perspective on how you did this. After zooming around the pics, I determined that you have some good ideas on how to do rehab on the bottom of the body, and I will probably make something similar to this when I get the time to remove my body off my car. Thanks for the pics.


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