Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu
 

AWESOME!  Yes I remember that last year at the Nationals, I thought that was so cool and kinda why I posted my question on here.  Hoping someone might chime in about that.  I think he is the nice fella I spoke with at length when I first got my car.  But I had not the chance to work on it til this spring.

Also I would like to officially join the club this year (now I finally have a Crosley) I can do that at the show or do I have to send that in?  I have been coming to the show for about a decade now but always just a spectator.

Been reading through my Service manual and Restoration books tonight too.

T

On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 10:11:24 PM EDT, Jim Bollman <Jim@...> wrote:


Another possibility is do what you can trying not to make anything worse and contact Ted at Yankee. He opens a Crosley garage at the Nationals usually on the Saturday or Sunday before the Nationals and runs it off an on through the week, fixing members Crosleys. Call/eMail him and check if he is planning on doing that again this year and see if you can get on the list to finish what you can get fixed. Getting in line early helps. He has a group of Crosley mechanics that help him during the week.

On Jun 4, 2019, at 6:12 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io <oldvw@...> wrote:

So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.  As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.  So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.  Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.  There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.  It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.  Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.  It is a Tilitson.  So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb?  the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.  I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.  I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.  Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below?  Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.  Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today. 
Thanks for help
Todd

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