Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

Todd Swangstu

Great guys!  Thanks for the info...I was dead on right with my assumptions what to-not to do.

-Yes I have both manuals bought from fellow on eBay.  One is a restoration guide and other looks to be a copy of factory workshop manual.

-I am an ASE Certified Mechanic, ran a restoration shop about 20 years.  My main forte was German cars.  Was burned out, sold the shop and most everything about 5 years ago but now getting back into doing some stuff for MYSELF.  So I have the skills but as you know with every new model, make you venture into there is tricks, tips, dos and don'ts you MUST learn.  I have ZERO of that knowledge on Crosleys but will learn it all in a very short time.

That is what is so great about the internet and these type forums AND having a great club base for the model and make.  The VW groups I am in are very friendly and THAT is what I also liked bout the Crosley group too!  The atmosphere and camaraderie at all the National meets I attended was wonderful.  Very nice, super helpful folks...and the cars are awesome too!

Ok so going to be venturing forward here now that I have a general idea of things.  I am going to order carb kit, tune up parts, and try and maybe some tires on the way asap.  I will keep updating as I go along.  I have a couple days free here but then back to work I still need to get a hold of Butch too...see what he thinks. 

Oh and on the parts, I recall two major vendors I think one was Yankee and the other...?  One was run by one fellow and I spoke with him on the phone..REAL nice guy seemed to have most everything.  Can't recall his name and business....was THAT Yankee and the other Service maybe?



On Tuesday, June 4, 2019, 7:27:12 PM EDT, Butch via Groups.Io <butch46988@...> wrote:


On the carb, grind a wrench down AND remove the cam/valve cover.

On the distributor, you must FIRST remove the oil pan and take the gear off of the distributor, before it can be removed from the crankcase. The distributor drive gear will NOT pass thru the crankcase hole.

Personally, I would not disturb the oil pan yet. Most likely you have rope seals, and they are a BEAR to install, in the car, and have them not leak.

If you take the carb off, modified screwdrivers are required, to disassemble it without damage to the jets and carb body.

Have you gotten your service manual yet. If not, the tow projects that you are attempting, are leading you into some dangerous territory.


On 6/4/2019 6:12 PM, Todd Swangstu via Groups.Io wrote:
So I stopped out at the 48 today just to get an idea if where I am at with it.?? As mentioned I have never touched the car before, bought it and she went in winter storage.?? So here is what I found out and some questions.

-It is a cast iron block, installed the new 6V battery.?? Headlights work, dimmer works, dash ammeter works, horn works.
-Has an electric fuel pump mounted where the original went.?? There is power to the f-p but the pump itself is DEAD.
- power to the coil and to the dizzy but constant power at ground side of the dizzy..., points open and close fine I am guessing the condenser is probably bad.
-Starter turns over super strong and powerful.
-90% sure the coolant leak was from the hose leading from top of the radiator to the block.?? It has a heater spliced in and seemed to be leaking there and down around block.?? Went to fill radiator and it was only low to that point the block was still full of coolant which made me quite happy.

So, I decided to yank the carb and dizzy and take em home with me clean em up do points and rebuild the carb.?? It is a Tilitson.?? So here are my first newbie questions for ya'll
-What is best way to remove the carb??? the outer bolt was a breeze the inner one was near impossible.?? I am guessing you need to either remove the entire exhaust and intake manifold to gain access to that nut or perhaps the valve cover and grind down a 7/16 to fit in the tight spot....Tips, Tricks?
-Distributor, I removed the mounting bolt and the dizzy was nice and free. It will raise up about 2-3 inches then catches on something inside the block.?? I did not want to force it so figured I would ask here FIRST.?? Is the dizzy removable from the top or do you have to get at it from below??? Just thought I would yank it for easier clean up-tune up install.?? Again any tips etc.
-Fuel pump, should I go back to the old manual one or find an electric again?

Was pretty happy and findings today.??
Thanks for help


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