Re: Looking for help getting `48 wagon running for Nationals. Located in Toledo Ohio area

David Reina
 

Hi Todd,
Yes to everything others have already written.   Here are a couple more items that occur to me. 
1) order a workshop manual ASAP from one of the venders. 
2) when cleaning the carburetor you must first unscrew and removed the long emulsion tube from the top of the Tillottson carburetor.   This thin brass tube is a couple of inches long and goes diagonally through the carb and will get bent and ruined if it’s not removed before the top comes off the carb.  (You may have a Carter carb in which case the above warning doesn’t apply)
3) grease the kingpins, tie rod ends, and drag link that comes off the steering box. Grease the torque tube joint and the bearing in the middle of the torque tube.   Grease the outer bearings on the back axle. Not too much- only two shots per side. I think the water pump has a grease fitting. That should really take water pump grease.  
4)clean the ignition points. Cut some 1/4” wide strips from a white index card paper. Soak a strip with acetone or gas (not nail polish remover acetone. It has too much other junk in it. ) and pull the wet paper through the closed points. Do it a couple of times. This will usually clean the points enough that they will work ok.   Coat the points can with a very light coat of grease. 
5)the condenser is on the outside of the Crosley distributed and should be held there with a very short screw. Sometimes that short screw has been replaced by a longer one which goes too far into the distributed body and which then hangs up the centrifugal weights causing mysterious problems. 
6)transmission takes 90 to 140 weight gear oil filled to the bottom of the side filler plug threads. Some people like the heavier gear oil as it can help in shifting the non synchronized transmission. The rear axle takes 90 weight gear oil to to the bottom of the filler plug threads. 
7) check the brake fluid. Just kidding!!!  You should mechanical brakes. 
8) the water pump will probably leak when running. There may be a packing nut on the shaft end of the pump which can be tightened. 
Regards,
Dave


On Jun 2, 2019, at 9:48 AM, Andy Drake <drakeap@...> wrote:

I've not really had too many leaks from the water jacket covers, even from motors that have sat for decades. If you ever take them off, you'll see that crud tends to accumulate around the edges and crust over. 

But that said, everything else about the cooling system needs to probably be freshened up, including doing a flush. The water pump may have seized and the hose going from the block to the pump dry rotted (doesn't help they also bake from their location). The whole process to overhaul the cooling system is only a couple hours once you have the parts. Rebuilding the pump isn't that much longer (or just get a rebuilt one) for the peace of mind.

In my case, I went through my Roundside with an eye towards getting everything freed up and belts / hoses redone, only to find it leaked oil from like 3 different places once I got it going after sitting for so long (15+ years). You probably know this, but heat and circulation will loosen everything up, so it's hard to predict just exactly where leaks will happen. When I did an oil change, it was basically black goo that I let drain overnight, so I did another change about 250 miles later and it looked way better.

The good news about all this is, Crosleys are easy to work on and it's amazing what you can get done in only a short time. The vendors can assemble you a kit and will have more insight than what's spelled out even in the manual. 

Good luck and see you at the Nationals!

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