Date   

Re: which winch to buy for HG-52SS to tiltover option

AB2E Darrell
 

Forgot to mention I would like to use a powered winch, not manual.
73 Darrell AB2E



From: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io <CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io> on behalf of AB2E Darrell <ab2e@...>
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 10:44 PM
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers <CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io>
Subject: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] which winch to buy for HG-52SS to tiltover option
 
Hello all,
Related to my HG-52SS install project.
I know it wasn't designed to tilt over, but easy enough to cement a steel support and mount a winch on it to raise the tower vertical from the ground.
Wondering if anyone has done a tiltover option for their crankup, and if so, what is a good choice for the separate horizontal winch.

Thanks and 73,
Darrell AB2E



From: AB2E Darrell
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 10:38 PM
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers <CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io>
Subject: WTB NN4ZZ Tiltplate/Karlock set
 
Hello all,
Planning on doing the HG-52SS crankup install this spring/summer.
This may be a long shot.
Anyone have an NN4ZZ Mini-tiltplate or Standard Tiltplate system for sale?
I'm in southern NJ.

I know I can buy from Canada, just seeing if there might be one available here.
The shipping is staggering.

73 Darrell AB2E


which winch to buy for HG-52SS to tiltover option

AB2E Darrell
 

Hello all,
Related to my HG-52SS install project.
I know it wasn't designed to tilt over, but easy enough to cement a steel support and mount a winch on it to raise the tower vertical from the ground.
Wondering if anyone has done a tiltover option for their crankup, and if so, what is a good choice for the separate horizontal winch.

Thanks and 73,
Darrell AB2E



From: AB2E Darrell
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2022 10:38 PM
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers <CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io>
Subject: WTB NN4ZZ Tiltplate/Karlock set
 
Hello all,
Planning on doing the HG-52SS crankup install this spring/summer.
This may be a long shot.
Anyone have an NN4ZZ Mini-tiltplate or Standard Tiltplate system for sale?
I'm in southern NJ.

I know I can buy from Canada, just seeing if there might be one available here.
The shipping is staggering.

73 Darrell AB2E


WTB NN4ZZ Tiltplate/Karlock set

AB2E Darrell
 

Hello all,
Planning on doing the HG-52SS crankup install this spring/summer.
This may be a long shot.
Anyone have an NN4ZZ Mini-tiltplate or Standard Tiltplate system for sale?
I'm in southern NJ.

I know I can buy from Canada, just seeing if there might be one available here.
The shipping is staggering.

73 Darrell AB2E


Re: Lateral Truss mast material selection: extruded or drawn?

Jim VE7RF
 

6063-T832  is done in an airbath, comes out shiny.    6061-T6 is oil quenched, and comes with that gunky film on it....which is easily removed if required. 

6063-T832 is 39 ksi yield.    That's  what  KLM,  M2,  Mosely, and also JK antenna's, hy-gain  use.  Only F12  used  6061-T6. 
6063-T832 is no where near the price of  6061-T6  ( 40 ksi yield) 

The difference in yield  strength is miniscule. (39 vs 40 ksi).   I can't tell the difference. 

The  tubing that DXE sells for eles is  6063-T832.    Their boom material in  .120" wall is  6061-T6.   The .120" wall stuff slides easily into the next size up.... and available in 1.5 - 1.75 - 2.00  -  2.25  - 2.50  - 2.75  -  3.0"   OD.

Jim   VE7RF


Re: coax standoffs for Alumnatower

Robin Midgett
 

Greg,
I'd be happy to work with you to fabricate arms for your tower.


Thanks,
Robin Midgett K4IDC


On Sat, Jan 22, 2022 at 11:32 AM Greg Yates <wb2bin@...> wrote:
Jamie,

If you find someone please let me know.  I have a couple and you are right they are not stand offs.

Greg,  WB2BIN

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 1:32 PM QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...> wrote:
Herbert

........... for spreaders in aluminum

Not sure why its a big issue...most metal fabrication shops will do it....all you need is a good drawing for them to follow. 


Jay
W2IJ

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 12:26 PM Herbert Hatton via groups.io <hwhatton=ymail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have one of their towers never been put up because I have no standoffs and the price is out of site.  They have to be aluminum and I can’t find anyone to fabricate any.  Good luck.
Herbert, W4ASA 

On Jan 19, 2022, at 11:25 AM, Robin Midgett <RobinK4IDC@...> wrote:


I'd be happy to work with you to fabricate arms for your tower.

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022, 9:58 AM Jamie WW3S <ww3s@...> wrote:
Is anyone using standoff arms on ALumnatower? The arms from the manufacturer really are not arms, and they dont stand off very far, (and very very pricey !!) and Chris from KF7P didnt think he had anything that would work.....


Re: coax standoffs for Alumnatower

Robin Midgett
 

Herbert...
I'd be happy to work with you to fabricate arms for your tower.

Thanks,
Robin Midgett K4IDC


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 12:26 PM Herbert Hatton via groups.io <hwhatton=ymail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have one of their towers never been put up because I have no standoffs and the price is out of site.  They have to be aluminum and I can’t find anyone to fabricate any.  Good luck.
Herbert, W4ASA 

On Jan 19, 2022, at 11:25 AM, Robin Midgett <RobinK4IDC@...> wrote:


I'd be happy to work with you to fabricate arms for your tower.

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022, 9:58 AM Jamie WW3S <ww3s@...> wrote:
Is anyone using standoff arms on ALumnatower? The arms from the manufacturer really are not arms, and they dont stand off very far, (and very very pricey !!) and Chris from KF7P didnt think he had anything that would work.....


Re: Lateral Truss mast material selection: extruded or drawn?

Grant Saviers
 

onlinemetals shows 6063 tube in T52 temper and sheet as soft. Most of their 6061 any shape in T6 or T651. That is why their 6063 sheet is good for cold working and the yield strength of the 6063 tube is less than 6061.

Good references at
https://www.thomasnet.com/articles/metals-metal-products/6061-aluminum-vs-6063-aluminum/

Grant KZ1W

On 1/23/2022 05:03, John Canfield wrote:
>From onlinemetals.com about 6063:
6063 is often called architectural aluminum for two reasons. First,
it has a surface finish that is far smoother than the other
commercially available alloys. Second, its strength is significantly
less than most other aluminum alloys. 6063 has roughly half the
strength of 6061, making it suited for applications where strength
is not the foremost consideration. 6063 is rated as "Good" for
forming and cold working operations, "Excellent" for anodizing, and
"Fair" for machining. It is typically used in pipe, railing,
furniture, and decorative materials.
John WB5THT
LM354HD SP


Re: Lateral Truss mast material selection: extruded or drawn?

John Canfield
 

From onlinemetals.com about 6063:
6063 is often called architectural aluminum for two reasons. First, it has a surface finish that is far smoother than the other commercially available alloys. Second, its strength is significantly less than most other aluminum alloys. 6063 has roughly half the strength of 6061, making it suited for applications where strength is not the foremost consideration. 6063 is rated as "Good" for forming and cold working operations, "Excellent" for anodizing, and "Fair" for machining. It is typically used in pipe, railing, furniture, and decorative materials.
John WB5THT
LM354HD SP


Re: coax standoffs for Alumnatower

Greg Yates
 

Jamie,

If you find someone please let me know.  I have a couple and you are right they are not stand offs.

Greg,  WB2BIN

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 1:32 PM QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...> wrote:
Herbert

........... for spreaders in aluminum

Not sure why its a big issue...most metal fabrication shops will do it....all you need is a good drawing for them to follow. 


Jay
W2IJ

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 12:26 PM Herbert Hatton via groups.io <hwhatton=ymail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have one of their towers never been put up because I have no standoffs and the price is out of site.  They have to be aluminum and I can’t find anyone to fabricate any.  Good luck.
Herbert, W4ASA 

On Jan 19, 2022, at 11:25 AM, Robin Midgett <RobinK4IDC@...> wrote:


I'd be happy to work with you to fabricate arms for your tower.

On Wed, Jan 19, 2022, 9:58 AM Jamie WW3S <ww3s@...> wrote:
Is anyone using standoff arms on ALumnatower? The arms from the manufacturer really are not arms, and they dont stand off very far, (and very very pricey !!) and Chris from KF7P didnt think he had anything that would work.....


Re: Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

John Canfield
 

Any particular reason you don't want to buy the base from Tash? I also have the fold over fixture - happy with the entire package.
John WB5THT
Tash LM354HD SP


Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

QuikAdjuster
 

Hi Dave,

Your last post noted a subject that I will put in the drawings about ensuring things being true after welding by measurement and add correction action must be taken to true the components. 

My 3 large .375” pads under the .375” T base surrounding each 1.25” anchor bolt takes up 52% of the total T bottom area…this gives me .75” at the 3 areas of where all the vertical weight forces will be from what I can see (not looking at the moment factor caused by wind, etc) ….the 48% of the remaining area on the bottom where it’s not .75” I have 1” stiffeners on the T base top along that narrow part of the T to minimize flexing between the front and rear ears which I’m sure can be calculated but will it in reality….who knows….HI….. I’m guessing the 3 anchors should help out there there. I’m not a mechanical engineer (electrical) and understood most of the static stuff but once things started moving, dynamics of material….well, things got a bit odd for me…thus I stayed on the the electrical side.

I put the pads on as a buffer (like a really thick washer) for the Tvbase bottom adjusting nut just below the T base plus it added some “additional meat” at each anchor bolt. I saw this approach in military aircraft when we had to make updates and run items through frame structure and the mechanical folks would require stiffeners for strengthening the frame’s new penetration.

The anchors are quite beefy….each about 10.5 pounds per my 3D software and my first time lifting the box with the 3 of them… HI

My thinking was since the ears on the tower, the Tash base ears and tilt-over ears are all .375” might as well be consistent since the thickness works as a system for them and from what I see it’s basically a system under a shearing situation and some stress (or compression or whatever goes on there’s…who recalls that stuff) I guess when windy…..But..I could be a little cloudy about that since I had Statics in 1964 in my engineering curriculum….and I didn’t ace that course.

My drawing of the weld beads are not the final design of these…just pictorials where welding needed…I’ll let the welder decide the best approach. I had no idea about bowing until I talked to the engineer…kinda made sense. 

Thanks for your posts….

The lines in pix are the result of an LCD display and my iPad camera…

73
Jay
W2IJ




On Jan 20, 2022, at 5:22 PM, Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:

 I see...ok..looks like you have things under control...mine is 1/2 plate...Spray transfer welded( for MAX penatration )  at 450 amps..even with carefull welding and stitching we still had some warping that required a few minutes on the hydraulic bender to straighten.. ..after welding and test fitting it was cleaned up...x-rated and sent off to be hot dip galvanized 


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/20/22 4:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Yes..I saw your attachment 

I’m having a metal fabricator shop do it with my drawings. I have annotated  the drawing with notes about bowing and perpendicular items, keeping thing vertical, stitching alternating, etc….

They have asked for the dxf files and described bowing that occurs in welding and they they will minimize by clamping, stitching, tacting  or whatever that welding world does.

I spent an hour with their engineer last week and he had my drawings and understood from the getgo and made a suggestion here and there.

Their welder will call me once he returns to work….their welder, who I have spoken with before, has many years under his belt. 

73
Jay
W2IJ






On Jan 20, 2022, at 3:44 PM, Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:

 Did.you look at my attachment ?

Spray transfer welding is the best way...


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/20/22 2:40 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

HI Dave

I did look at the actual drawing for the HDX-555 base .. I added the pads on mine per that drawing...the hinges on theirs is not needed for the Tri-Ex 354 as their tilt over connects differently. I went larger on the anchor bolts to 1.25" vs 1.125"

73
Jay
W2IJ



On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 1:59 PM Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:
I suggest you take a peek at US TOWER base plates...they are the strongest..I   fabricated one with their design in mind


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/19/22 5:37 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Grant

Only mod I thought about was to place anchor bolt in front of the rear ear....

Jay


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:57 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Grant

Here are some more views

Jay



On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:55 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
HI Grant

Thank you for that....I spent an hour with a metal fabricator house last week and indeed they discussed the bowing when not done right...and I noted to them that the ears/base must be truly perpendicular.....they are going to do it all;

Attached is the approach. I designated stitching and alternating on the stiffeners  in the diagram, they will  decide the spacing, etc. All metal .375 steel. The base will also have .375 pads under the T. It was interesting how they described the need to alternate the stitching pattern on each stiffener.  

They discussed how the clamp items to the welding work table to ensure the best "straighteness" since I've now learned welding creates some bowing as stuff gets drawn to the heat...sorta like sweating copper tubing and heating it away from the actual junction and letting the solder being pulled in 

I wouldn't even attempt to learn at this stage. HI

They recommend about 1/16" slop between eac tower/base ear....

Since you have walked the mile in those moccasins, any comments on my T base?

73
Jay
W2IJ


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:34 PM Grant Saviers <grants2@...> wrote:
I have a LM470 with a shop made T base (came with it) which has problems.

Ears are flat plate rather than heavy section angle

Ears are not square to T and T has a heat distortion bow from welding.

No amount of hydraulic press straightening and OxyAcet heating get it to
needed "straightness" and fit.  Plus I don't trust the flat ears for
bending resistance, especially when raising it from tilted over.

As a proficient hobby welder I know how this happened and it is not
fixable.  So consider a pro welder (unless you are one) who can make one
square and give them the squareness constraints.  My UST base has
channel stiffeners welded on the T.

My HDX589 bases have much more "slop" maybe 1/4". The tower bolts are
completely in shear and only need to be "snug tight" (what you can
wrench normally by hand).  The ears don't need to contact the tower
flanges.  So more slop doesn't hurt.

Grant KZ1W

On 1/19/2022 10:28, QuikAdjuster wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> I have been toying with a new base design for my 354HD. I am basing it
> on the T base system and the cage used by the HDX-555.
>
> My 354HD SP (purchased one "used") is not installed...stored in a
> friend's barn till our home gets built this year.
>
> I have designed the base's 3 anchor bolts with 1.25" x 30", FM1554,
> Grade 55, hot dipped galvanized available from Anchor Bolt
> EXpress....very reasonable.
>
> Tash folks sent me the 3D CAD model for the outside 354 section in mid
> 2021 so I could design a complete cover for the motor and winch assembly.
>
> There is, of course, some "slop" when the tower is to be mated in
> between the base ears. I have the exact numbers for the tower's
> front ears outside distance as 22.938" from their CAD model. Of
> course the base ears in the new concept can't be 22.938" as it
> wouldn't slip in.
>
> Seeking 2 numbers from your tower.  My guess is 1/16" gradient would
> give me a good idea on the base-tower ears "slop". If you have a tighter
> measuring device, even better.
>
> They are:
>
> 1) Tower front ears outside-outside distance
> 2) Base front ears inside-inside distance
>
> TIA
> 73
> Jay
> W2IJ
>
>
>






Re: Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Dave .
 

I see...ok..looks like you have things under control...mine is 1/2 plate...Spray transfer welded( for MAX penatration )  at 450 amps..even with carefull welding and stitching we still had some warping that required a few minutes on the hydraulic bender to straighten.. ..after welding and test fitting it was cleaned up...x-rated and sent off to be hot dip galvanized 


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/20/22 4:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Yes..I saw your attachment 

I’m having a metal fabricator shop do it with my drawings. I have annotated  the drawing with notes about bowing and perpendicular items, keeping thing vertical, stitching alternating, etc….

They have asked for the dxf files and described bowing that occurs in welding and they they will minimize by clamping, stitching, tacting  or whatever that welding world does.

I spent an hour with their engineer last week and he had my drawings and understood from the getgo and made a suggestion here and there.

Their welder will call me once he returns to work….their welder, who I have spoken with before, has many years under his belt. 

73
Jay
W2IJ






On Jan 20, 2022, at 3:44 PM, Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:

 Did.you look at my attachment ?

Spray transfer welding is the best way...


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/20/22 2:40 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

HI Dave

I did look at the actual drawing for the HDX-555 base .. I added the pads on mine per that drawing...the hinges on theirs is not needed for the Tri-Ex 354 as their tilt over connects differently. I went larger on the anchor bolts to 1.25" vs 1.125"

73
Jay
W2IJ



On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 1:59 PM Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:
I suggest you take a peek at US TOWER base plates...they are the strongest..I   fabricated one with their design in mind


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/19/22 5:37 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Grant

Only mod I thought about was to place anchor bolt in front of the rear ear....

Jay


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:57 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Grant

Here are some more views

Jay



On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:55 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
HI Grant

Thank you for that....I spent an hour with a metal fabricator house last week and indeed they discussed the bowing when not done right...and I noted to them that the ears/base must be truly perpendicular.....they are going to do it all;

Attached is the approach. I designated stitching and alternating on the stiffeners  in the diagram, they will  decide the spacing, etc. All metal .375 steel. The base will also have .375 pads under the T. It was interesting how they described the need to alternate the stitching pattern on each stiffener.  

They discussed how the clamp items to the welding work table to ensure the best "straighteness" since I've now learned welding creates some bowing as stuff gets drawn to the heat...sorta like sweating copper tubing and heating it away from the actual junction and letting the solder being pulled in 

I wouldn't even attempt to learn at this stage. HI

They recommend about 1/16" slop between eac tower/base ear....

Since you have walked the mile in those moccasins, any comments on my T base?

73
Jay
W2IJ


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:34 PM Grant Saviers <grants2@...> wrote:
I have a LM470 with a shop made T base (came with it) which has problems.

Ears are flat plate rather than heavy section angle

Ears are not square to T and T has a heat distortion bow from welding.

No amount of hydraulic press straightening and OxyAcet heating get it to
needed "straightness" and fit.  Plus I don't trust the flat ears for
bending resistance, especially when raising it from tilted over.

As a proficient hobby welder I know how this happened and it is not
fixable.  So consider a pro welder (unless you are one) who can make one
square and give them the squareness constraints.  My UST base has
channel stiffeners welded on the T.

My HDX589 bases have much more "slop" maybe 1/4". The tower bolts are
completely in shear and only need to be "snug tight" (what you can
wrench normally by hand).  The ears don't need to contact the tower
flanges.  So more slop doesn't hurt.

Grant KZ1W

On 1/19/2022 10:28, QuikAdjuster wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> I have been toying with a new base design for my 354HD. I am basing it
> on the T base system and the cage used by the HDX-555.
>
> My 354HD SP (purchased one "used") is not installed...stored in a
> friend's barn till our home gets built this year.
>
> I have designed the base's 3 anchor bolts with 1.25" x 30", FM1554,
> Grade 55, hot dipped galvanized available from Anchor Bolt
> EXpress....very reasonable.
>
> Tash folks sent me the 3D CAD model for the outside 354 section in mid
> 2021 so I could design a complete cover for the motor and winch assembly.
>
> There is, of course, some "slop" when the tower is to be mated in
> between the base ears. I have the exact numbers for the tower's
> front ears outside distance as 22.938" from their CAD model. Of
> course the base ears in the new concept can't be 22.938" as it
> wouldn't slip in.
>
> Seeking 2 numbers from your tower.  My guess is 1/16" gradient would
> give me a good idea on the base-tower ears "slop". If you have a tighter
> measuring device, even better.
>
> They are:
>
> 1) Tower front ears outside-outside distance
> 2) Base front ears inside-inside distance
>
> TIA
> 73
> Jay
> W2IJ
>
>
>






Re: Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

QuikAdjuster
 

Yes..I saw your attachment 

I’m having a metal fabricator shop do it with my drawings. I have annotated  the drawing with notes about bowing and perpendicular items, keeping thing vertical, stitching alternating, etc….

They have asked for the dxf files and described bowing that occurs in welding and they they will minimize by clamping, stitching, tacting  or whatever that welding world does.

I spent an hour with their engineer last week and he had my drawings and understood from the getgo and made a suggestion here and there.

Their welder will call me once he returns to work….their welder, who I have spoken with before, has many years under his belt. 

73
Jay
W2IJ






On Jan 20, 2022, at 3:44 PM, Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:

 Did.you look at my attachment ?

Spray transfer welding is the best way...


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/20/22 2:40 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: CrankupTiltoverTowers@groups.io
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

HI Dave

I did look at the actual drawing for the HDX-555 base .. I added the pads on mine per that drawing...the hinges on theirs is not needed for the Tri-Ex 354 as their tilt over connects differently. I went larger on the anchor bolts to 1.25" vs 1.125"

73
Jay
W2IJ



On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 1:59 PM Dave . <ktx85@...> wrote:
I suggest you take a peek at US TOWER base plates...they are the strongest..I   fabricated one with their design in mind


-------- Original message --------
From: QuikAdjuster <jkobelin@...>
Date: 1/19/22 5:37 PM (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [CrankupTiltoverTowers] Seeking 2 dimensions LM354HD

Grant

Only mod I thought about was to place anchor bolt in front of the rear ear....

Jay


On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:57 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Grant

Here are some more views

Jay



On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 3:55 PM QuikAdjuster via groups.io <jkobelin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
HI Grant

Thank you for that....I spent an hour with a metal fabricator house last week and indeed they discussed the bowing when not done right...and I noted to them that the ears/base must be truly perpendicular.....they are going to do it all;

Attached is the approach. I designated stitching and alternating on the stiffeners  in the diagram, they will  decide the spacing, etc. All metal .375 steel. The base will also have .375 pads under the T. It was interesting how they described the need to alternate the stitching pattern on each stiffener.  

They discussed how the clamp items to the welding work table to ensure the best "straighteness" since I've now learned welding creates some bowing as stuff gets drawn to the heat...sorta like sweating copper tubing and heating it away from the actual junction and letting the solder being pulled in 

I wouldn't even attempt to learn at this stage. HI

They recommend about 1/16" slop between eac tower/base ear....

Since you have walked the mile in those moccasins, any comments on my T base?

73
Jay
W2IJ