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Coaming Compartment Trim Solution

 Refurb your aged and split teak trim

-Kevin B. Gunn  3/2019


The teak trim rings around the cockpit coaming compartment on my 1986 Cat 30 #4410 completely disintegrated. They broke into several pieces trying to remove them and attempts to glue them back together failed.

I considered how I would fabricate new trim pieces out of some scrap teak I removed from other boats. Replicating the radius on the two ends was going to be difficult with my limited woodworking skill and toolset. Then I stumbled upon a video about faux wood finish. I decided using plastic trim pieces and applying a faux finish was going to be my best chance at success.

I bought the plastic trim rings from the Catalina Direct website.

Prep Work

First I lightly sanded the top surfaces which would face out towards the cockpit with 100 grit sand paper to give the paint/primer something to stick to. Then I masked the back side of the trim with painters tape since that surface would be glued to the coaming fiberglass. Finally I wiped the unmasked surfaces with acetone to remove oil and dirt from the surface to be painted.

Sand this side:

Mask this side:




I used some products I had on hand from a patio furniture project. 

Follow the direction on the can for application and cure time between coats. I found a large cardboard box and used drywall screws to support the pieces while painting.

I used 3 very thin coats of spray paint/primer. Followed by one thin coat of stain. Finally, I applied 4 coats of the outdoor urethane to protect the finish and block UV. 

A few tips:

  • Allow plenty of time for drying between coats of paint and before applying stain.
  • If you use a cheap brush, make sure to massage it very well to work the loose bristles out before applying stain. You'll get bristles in the stain if you skip this step.
  • Looking back, I should have thinned the stain a bit before applying to have more reveal of the bottom coat of lighter paint.
  • Practice on a white piece of PVC pipe before painting your trim. This will help you get the technique and color combinations just right before tackling the trim pieces.


Glue the trim in place with some 3M 4200 marine adhesive. Clamp in place and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. **Do not use silicone!!!*** A PO used tons of silicone on my boat including on the old trim. It is a laborious chore to clean and remove silicone residue from the fiberglass. Use 4200 because you may need to remove the trim at some point in the future. 


I am pleased with the result. It was relatively easy for a novice to get decent results. There is a noticeable wood grain appearance to the finish. My attempt ended up a shade darker than the rest of the teak trim. I didn't follow my own advice to practice on PVC pipe. Learn from my mistake.