Topics

On the subject of fake IRF510

Andrew Krause
 

Meh... if your car is maintained, the only thing coming out of your tail pipe is plant food (CO2 and Water). 

The problem with lead isn't simply the quantity. It's the persistence in the environment. Lead easily bonds to a number of organic compounds, meaning (like mercury and other heavy metals) tends to concentrate in the food chain.

The last 100 years of "not thinking it matters" has led us to an era where pregnant women can't eat fish without risking birth defects. 



On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 10:46 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
At work, we might ship a few thousand boards each year.  Required by government regs to state how much lead we are flushing into the environment.  A difficult calculation, but turns out we can just tell them how much lead solder we buy, which is well under their red flag limits.  An old car battery pitched over a canyon wall is a bigger hit   (We have since transitioned to unleaded solder for production boards.)  A significant issue for outfits selling millions of units, but the Bitx is not yet in that category.  I feel much more guilty about all the gasoline I burn than I do about my hobbyist use of lead solder.

On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 06:38 am, Andrew Krause wrote:
..you know, other than the whole "lead is toxic and our electronic waste is slowly poisoning our environment" thing...
 




--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO
andrew.krause@...
(404) 732-2369



Jerry Gaffke
 

A billion cars burning roughly 1000 gallons/yr is an awful lot of CO2 even if it is relatively benign (it is not:  https://xkcd.com/1732/).  And more than a little noxious crap.  To say nothing of all the jet fuel and spills and wars.  That gunfire is a far bigger source of lead in the environment than electronics hobbyists, if you really care about lead.


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 09:24 am, Andrew Krause wrote:
Meh... if your car is maintained, the only thing coming out of your tail pipe is plant food (CO2 and Water). 

Keith VE7GDH
 

Arv K7HKL wrote...

Given the large number of BITX transceivers currently
in use versus the rather small number of posts on this
discussion group regarding failed IRF510 devices, it
would seem that IRF510 failures represent a small
percentage of the total.
You are right. Compared to the number of BITXs out there,
the number of people with failed IRF510s is quite small.
The day before mine failed, I was using a non-ideal
length of wire, a 9:1 un-un and an Elecraft T1 tuner.
Perhaps the PA got stressed a bit while it was tuning.
I have enough IRF510s on the way that I can try the
T1 again to see if it was a fluke or not. Perhaps
I'll try talking into the mic with just enough level
for it to put out enough RF for the tuner to operate.

Thanks to all that commented!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Vince Vielhaber
 

If you want a low level carrier to tune with, a slight modification to the
CW mod will do it. The CW mod I'm referring to is the 10k resistor from
C107 to +5. Put a 100k pot in series with it and you can adjust the level
down to nothing. Instead of connecting it to the raduino like the mod
suggests, I just put it to a toggle switch on the front panel and press
the PTT to get the carrier.

Vince.

Arv K7HKL wrote...

> Given the large number of BITX transceivers currently
> in use versus the rather small number of posts on this
> discussion group regarding failed IRF510 devices, it
> would seem that IRF510 failures represent a small
> percentage of the total.

You are right. Compared to the number of BITXs out there,
the number of people with failed IRF510s is quite small.
The day before mine failed, I was using a non-ideal
length of wire, a 9:1 un-un and an Elecraft T1 tuner.
Perhaps the PA got stressed a bit while it was tuning.
I have enough IRF510s on the way that I can try the
T1 again to see if it was a fluke or not. Perhaps
I'll try talking into the mic with just enough level
for it to put out enough RF for the tuner to operate.

Thanks to all that commented!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH



Andrew Krause
 

All of those assertions are demonstrably false, but this is not the forum for that. 


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 1:00 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
A billion cars burning roughly 1000 gallons/yr is an awful lot of CO2 even if it is relatively benign (it is not:  https://xkcd.com/1732/).  And more than a little noxious crap.  To say nothing of all the jet fuel and spills and wars.  That gunfire is a far bigger source of lead in the environment than electronics hobbyists, if you really care about lead.


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 09:24 am, Andrew Krause wrote:
Meh... if your car is maintained, the only thing coming out of your tail pipe is plant food (CO2 and Water). 




--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO
andrew.krause@...
(404) 732-2369



Dr Fred Hambrecht
 

Having been on the receiving end of a “War lead bullet”, I can assure you lead contamination was my very last worry. Repairing the hole was of much greater concern.

 

v/r

Fred W4JLE

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 13:01
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

 

A billion cars burning roughly 1000 gallons/yr is an awful lot of CO2 even if it is relatively benign (it is not:  https://xkcd.com/1732/).  And more than a little noxious crap.  To say nothing of all the jet fuel and spills and wars.  That gunfire is a far bigger source of lead in the environment than electronics hobbyists, if you really care about lead.


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 09:24 am, Andrew Krause wrote:

Meh... if your car is maintained, the only thing coming out of your tail pipe is plant food (CO2 and Water). 

Jerry Gaffke
 

No argument here.
I owe you a beer and more should we ever meet, whatever war that was.
I was lucky enough to come of age at the end of the Vietnam War (the American War to some), 
right about when they shut down the draft. 

Jerry


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 04:00 pm, Dr Fred Hambrecht wrote:
Having been on the receiving end of a “War lead bullet”, I can assure you lead contamination was my very last worry. Repairing the hole was of much greater concern.

1practical.man
 

Amen Dr Fred. Stopping the leak is of great concern. Wound contamination is way down the list. I am personally grateful for the fancy new hemostatic bandages and tourniquet, along with the medics who trained us to use them. Real lifesavers. Everyone who drives a car should keep em on hand and be trained in using them.  Car accidents maim far more people than interpersonal violence. 

Of course, we all have radios and cell phones to summon help. (Just to keep this radio related). 

On Jul 25, 2017, at 18:59, Dr Fred Hambrecht <AAR4MI@...> wrote:

Having been on the receiving end of a “War lead bullet”, I can assure you lead contamination was my very last worry. Repairing the hole was of much greater concern.

 

v/r

Fred W4JLE

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 13:01
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] On the subject of fake IRF510

 

A billion cars burning roughly 1000 gallons/yr is an awful lot of CO2 even if it is relatively benign (it is not:  https://xkcd.com/1732/).  And more than a little noxious crap.  To say nothing of all the jet fuel and spills and wars.  That gunfire is a far bigger source of lead in the environment than electronics hobbyists, if you really care about lead.


On Tue, Jul 25, 2017 at 09:24 am, Andrew Krause wrote:

Meh... if your car is maintained, the only thing coming out of your tail pipe is plant food (CO2 and Water). 

Curt M.
 

After whatever went on with the first Bitx40 that I was shipped and especially after it appeared that the Radrino got whacked during troubleshooting when I switched from 12v to 13.8v I'm exclusively on 12V now.  I use the 15Ah Bioenno battery that I bought for my FT-817ND which puts out about 13.4v so I installed a voltage converter/stabilizer between the battery and the radio.  I set it for around 12.1v with no load.  See links below...

I purchased two different ones to try.  With the first one which has a display, I set it for 12.1v and the voltage drops to just under 12v when I power the Bitx on.  When I key up and talk the voltage does not go any lower than the initial voltage drop.  Actually 12.1v was the highest I could get when adjusting the output because the device can only control at a minimum of 1v difference between the input and output.  not sure what happened to the other .2v but either way it seems fine.  What's nice is that this device gives you a pretty clear indication that you are really transmitting because you see the fluctuations in current as you are talking into the mic.  I haven't checked what happens to the voltage with the second one but measuring the power output of the Bitx on the Bird 43, the power output using either one shows that I'm putting out about as close to 6 watts as it could be without the needle actually covering the 6 indicator so I suspect that either of these are fine.  I built the radio with it only ever being a QRP radio so what appears to be about 5.9 watts is more than I was expecting.  Also, these devices do not appear to induce any type of noise into the receive or transmit of the radio.  For everyday use I may stay with the one that doesn't have the display because I can leave it connected to the battery at all times without the load of the LCD and backlight drawing from the battery.  Having the one with the display will allow me to have a quick indication of what's going on with the radio if I ever question if the final has gone defective.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQGFXS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

I just ordered 2 of the ones with the display them China things don't last long I have found so I will have a back up they
Look cool anyway 

On 26 Jul 2017 13:57, "Curt M." <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
After whatever went on with the first Bitx40 that I was shipped and especially after it appeared that the Radrino got whacked during troubleshooting when I switched from 12v to 13.8v I'm exclusively on 12V now.  I use the 15Ah Bioenno battery that I bought for my FT-817ND which puts out about 13.4v so I installed a voltage converter/stabilizer between the battery and the radio.  I set it for around 12.1v with no load.  See links below...

I purchased two different ones to try.  With the first one which has a display, I set it for 12.1v and the voltage drops to just under 12v when I power the Bitx on.  When I key up and talk the voltage does not go any lower than the initial voltage drop.  Actually 12.1v was the highest I could get when adjusting the output because the device can only control at a minimum of 1v difference between the input and output.  not sure what happened to the other .2v but either way it seems fine.  What's nice is that this device gives you a pretty clear indication that you are really transmitting because you see the fluctuations in current as you are talking into the mic.  I haven't checked what happens to the voltage with the second one but measuring the power output of the Bitx on the Bird 43, the power output using either one shows that I'm putting out about as close to 6 watts as it could be without the needle actually covering the 6 indicator so I suspect that either of these are fine.  I built the radio with it only ever being a QRP radio so what appears to be about 5.9 watts is more than I was expecting.  Also, these devices do not appear to induce any type of noise into the receive or transmit of the radio.  For everyday use I may stay with the one that doesn't have the display because I can leave it connected to the battery at all times without the load of the LCD and backlight drawing from the battery.  Having the one with the display will allow me to have a quick indication of what's going on with the radio if I ever question if the final has gone defective.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQGFXS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 


chris gress <Chrisg0wfh@...>
 

I just got 10 x irf510 from ma components in the UK cost £7.55 via amazon so fast got them in 24hrs they look the same as fitted in the bitx 40 so I think there good stock 

On 26 Jul 2017 17:36, "chris gress" <Chrisg0wfh@...> wrote:
I just ordered 2 of the ones with the display them China things don't last long I have found so I will have a back up they
Look cool anyway 

On 26 Jul 2017 13:57, "Curt M." <Kc3hjp@...> wrote:
After whatever went on with the first Bitx40 that I was shipped and especially after it appeared that the Radrino got whacked during troubleshooting when I switched from 12v to 13.8v I'm exclusively on 12V now.  I use the 15Ah Bioenno battery that I bought for my FT-817ND which puts out about 13.4v so I installed a voltage converter/stabilizer between the battery and the radio.  I set it for around 12.1v with no load.  See links below...

I purchased two different ones to try.  With the first one which has a display, I set it for 12.1v and the voltage drops to just under 12v when I power the Bitx on.  When I key up and talk the voltage does not go any lower than the initial voltage drop.  Actually 12.1v was the highest I could get when adjusting the output because the device can only control at a minimum of 1v difference between the input and output.  not sure what happened to the other .2v but either way it seems fine.  What's nice is that this device gives you a pretty clear indication that you are really transmitting because you see the fluctuations in current as you are talking into the mic.  I haven't checked what happens to the voltage with the second one but measuring the power output of the Bitx on the Bird 43, the power output using either one shows that I'm putting out about as close to 6 watts as it could be without the needle actually covering the 6 indicator so I suspect that either of these are fine.  I built the radio with it only ever being a QRP radio so what appears to be about 5.9 watts is more than I was expecting.  Also, these devices do not appear to induce any type of noise into the receive or transmit of the radio.  For everyday use I may stay with the one that doesn't have the display because I can leave it connected to the battery at all times without the load of the LCD and backlight drawing from the battery.  Having the one with the display will allow me to have a quick indication of what's going on with the radio if I ever question if the final has gone defective.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FQGFXS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C0KL1OM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1