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How to secure the inductors

Cory King
 

It looks like all the delicate looking hand-wound inductors on the board are flapping in the breeze.  Anybody used hot glue to secure them?  Any reason hot glue wouldn’t work?

Ben Miller-Jacobson
 

I did exactly that. No issues thus far.

On Saturday, October 26, 2019, Cory King wrote:
It looks like all the delicate looking hand-wound inductors on the board are flapping in the breeze. Anybody used hot glue to secure them? Any reason hot glue wouldn’t work?



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Doug W
 

On Sun, Oct 27, 2019 at 12:06 AM, Cory King wrote:
Anybody used hot glue to secure them?
That's what I did with mine.
 
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Jim Strohm
 

I've found that not all hot-melt glue brands are equal.  Gorilla brand glue sticks appear to be the best on the American market.

They cost more but provide much better long-term adhesion than the cheap crafts store (Michael's, Hobby Lobby) stuff. 

YMMV.  If you find a really good domestic USA brand that's easily available (Amazon is OK) please share.

73
Jim N6OTQ

Nigel
 

Greetings from ZS land :-)

Timing of question is perfect!  Reason being is that I am nearing assembly stage of my V3 uBitx now that the hardware design / fabrication is almost complete and due to space limitations, I need to reduce overall height of main board / components in one area by a couple of mm. The items that are proving too high are the toroids associated with the mixers.

On inspection, I notice that there are plastic / nylon bases (well at least they melt if prodded with the tip of a hot soldering iron!) between the pcb and the toroid serving to keep the windings in position (I guess?).  My plan is to remove so that each 'transformer' assembly will be lowered and hence allow use of the case I am building. An alternative (but this is likely to be more disruptive than just lowering) is to mount the transformers on their side.

Hence my interest in this topic as wondering if by removing the toroid base (or changing orientation but keeping the relative 90 degree alignments) there will be any (significant) difference to performance?

Anyone care to comment?

I have thought about making a temporary harness to test prior to undertaking the modifications but hopefully someone who can advise will make that step unnecessary. Then again, I am thinking that if this was a VHF or above unit then yes, there would more than likely be a difference but at HF I doubt it. Guess is better to ask than find out the hard way!

As an aside, my intention is to test after assembly BEFORE adding enhancements / changing the firmware...

Many thanks in advance for any and all feedback.

Best regards to all

Nigel ZS6RN ex G8DEV (l-o-n-g time ago)

Geoff G3NPI
 

Nigel,

 

Please be aware that if the Toroids are very close to a metal surface it may detune them.

 

73

 

Geoff  G3NPI   EX  ZS1GS a very l o n g time ago………

 

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Nigel
 

Hi Geoff, point noted and unlikely to be any significant metal close to assembly.

Had taken that point  into consideration during design phase and hopefully the presence of 'metal' items will not impact performance as distance away 'seems' reasonable but testing will confirm. Oh the joys of experimenting! 

Am quite excited now that project is on the home straight, will post again when finished with pictures if anyone interested. 

As an aside, when did you move to the U.K. If I may ask?

Everything of the best to you and fellow enthusiasts from a sunny and hot (rain desperately needed) South Africa :-) 

Nigel ZS6RN ex G8DEV 

Geoff G3NPI
 

OK Nigel. Glad you have designed that problem out.

 

I was only in ZS for 3 years, I returned to UK in 1966 but still have happy memories of Cape Town.

 

73

 

Geoff  G3NPI

 

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Dennis Zabawa
 

I use hot glue to secure inductors.  The method depends on whether they are flat or standing orientation.  For flat inductors, I cut a slice from a hot glue stick and place it on top of the inductor.  Then I use the heat gun to gently melt the glue so it flows over and secures the windings and locks the inductor to the board surface.  For standing inductors, I use the hot glue gun to place a blob of glue on the top of the inductor.  Then I use the heat gun to gently melt the glue so it flows over and secures the windings and locks the inductor to the board surface.

ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...>
 

A squirt of the higher temp hot glue from the glue-gun at the base of standing inductors
or under if flat seem to work for the last two decades.

No need to coat the coils and if I needed that Superglue is used to lick the turns.

Overdoing it with either makes repairs a pain and a mess.

Allison