Topics

Easy desoldering of relays (& other multi-pin devices)

Gerry Kavanagh
 

I recently changed out the relays on my v0.3 uBiTX, and since for whatever reason I cannot get wick to remove all the solder, no matter what iron I use and how much flux, I thought I might try another method. There are a number of low-temperature solder products, the most famous/common, being ChipQuik. They are basically an alloy that includes indium or gallium which when added to a solder joint, drastically lowers the melting point. What this means is that you can melt the solder at each leg of a device, and by the time you have gotten to the last leg, the first will still be molten, which means the device just pulls free. The risk to the device and to the board is greatly reduced.
If anyone is having difficulty, or is apprehensive about replacing the relays, this may be a good solution.
/ Gerry

Michael Walker
 

Hi Gerry

Find some Chipquik.  It makes desoldering a breeze.  I've even pulled multipin CPU's from boards with it.


Mike va3mw


On Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 4:47 AM gerrykav via Groups.Io <gerrykav=yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:
I recently changed out the relays on my v0.3 uBiTX, and since for whatever reason I cannot get wick to remove all the solder, no matter what iron I use and how much flux, I thought I might try another method. There are a number of low-temperature solder products, the most famous/common, being ChipQuik. They are basically an alloy that includes indium or gallium which when added to a solder joint, drastically lowers the melting point. What this means is that you can melt the solder at each leg of a device, and by the time you have gotten to the last leg, the first will still be molten, which means the device just pulls free. The risk to the device and to the board is greatly reduced.
If anyone is having difficulty, or is apprehensive about replacing the relays, this may be a good solution.
/ Gerry

Joe Puma
 

I good suction desolder tool got most of the solder off for me on the relay. It removed it so well I was able to remove the relays with a wiggle and they broke free. 

Joe
Kd2nfc 


On Jul 18, 2019, at 8:28 AM, Michael Walker <va3mw@...> wrote:

Hi Gerry

Find some Chipquik.  It makes desoldering a breeze.  I've even pulled multipin CPU's from boards with it.


Mike va3mw


On Thu, Jul 18, 2019 at 4:47 AM gerrykav via Groups.Io <gerrykav=yahoo.co.uk@groups.io> wrote:
I recently changed out the relays on my v0.3 uBiTX, and since for whatever reason I cannot get wick to remove all the solder, no matter what iron I use and how much flux, I thought I might try another method. There are a number of low-temperature solder products, the most famous/common, being ChipQuik. They are basically an alloy that includes indium or gallium which when added to a solder joint, drastically lowers the melting point. What this means is that you can melt the solder at each leg of a device, and by the time you have gotten to the last leg, the first will still be molten, which means the device just pulls free. The risk to the device and to the board is greatly reduced.
If anyone is having difficulty, or is apprehensive about replacing the relays, this may be a good solution.
/ Gerry

David
 

The method fo removing solder through hole components; where you can access the component fully,
per my days in medical instrumentation, is to use fine wire cutters and cut the leads as close to the body of
The component as possible. Then remove the component. Next take a small pair of needle nose pliers grab the lead and heat the pad using a tip with a drop of solder on it. When molten pull the lead out. Then reapply heat and use a solder sucker to clear the pad and through hole. This reduces the chances of damaging the feed through hole.

I am not a big fan of solder wick as it can often lead to overheating the pad and damaging it.

Also if you are having trouble getting a small piece of solder off a pad or feed through. Re-apply solder to the whole pad and feed through and then try the solder sucker again.

Michael Walker
 

This is why I recommend Chipquik.

It is a solder with a very high freezing temperature.  You mix it in with the current connection with  a soldering iron and then it stays soft for about 10 seconds giving you time to remove the part.

I had to remove a very large transformer from a HF amp that had 2 circuit boards joined together that was about 3cm long.  Without Chipquik, it would have been near impossible.  

I'm blown away how easy it is and how much safer it is to your board than the traditional methods of solder suckers, vacuum stations and even solder wick.  

You might want to watch their video.  This is new school and much newer technology.

Mike va3mw

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 2:09 AM David <dokrent@...> wrote:
The method fo removing solder through hole components; where you can access the component fully,
per my days in medical instrumentation, is to use fine wire cutters and cut the  leads as close to the body of
The component as possible. Then remove the component. Next take a small pair of needle nose pliers grab the lead and heat the pad using a tip with a drop of solder on it. When molten pull the lead out. Then reapply heat and use a solder sucker to clear the pad and through hole. This reduces the chances of damaging the feed through hole.

I am not a big fan of solder wick as it can often lead to overheating the pad and damaging it.

Also if you are having trouble getting a small piece of solder off a pad or feed through. Re-apply solder to the whole pad and feed through and then try the solder sucker again.



Don--AE4DW
 

Thanks for the recommendation, I had never heard of Chipquik until i read this thread, looks like a good tool for the tool box for those desoldering jobs involving multiple pins past 2 or 3.

I usually manage ok with solder wick and a Haako 808 desoldering gun, but will definitely pick some up.

Julien NICOLAS
 

Hi,
My preferred way is to use an air compressor to blow molten solder.
Sometime I also use quick chip (bismuth).
Julien

Le 19/07/2019 8:09, David a écrit :
The method fo removing solder through hole components; where you can
access the component fully,
per my days in medical instrumentation, is to use fine wire cutters
and cut the leads as close to the body of
The component as possible. Then remove the component. Next take a
small pair of needle nose pliers grab the lead and heat the pad using
a tip with a drop of solder on it. When molten pull the lead out. Then
reapply heat and use a solder sucker to clear the pad and through
hole. This reduces the chances of damaging the feed through hole.
I am not a big fan of solder wick as it can often lead to overheating
the pad and damaging it.
Also if you are having trouble getting a small piece of solder off a
pad or feed through. Re-apply solder to the whole pad and feed through
and then try the solder sucker again.

V Zecchinelli
 

I just tried this on removing a 64 pin SMD chip and it worked fantastic.  Have had Chipquik for a while but never used.  Worked GREAT!!!
THANKS!!!
73 Vince N1VIN


On 7/19/2019 7:59 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
This is why I recommend Chipquik.

It is a solder with a very high freezing temperature.  You mix it in with the current connection with  a soldering iron and then it stays soft for about 10 seconds giving you time to remove the part.

I had to remove a very large transformer from a HF amp that had 2 circuit boards joined together that was about 3cm long.  Without Chipquik, it would have been near impossible.  

I'm blown away how easy it is and how much safer it is to your board than the traditional methods of solder suckers, vacuum stations and even solder wick.  

You might want to watch their video.  This is new school and much newer technology.

Mike va3mw

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 2:09 AM David <dokrent@...> wrote:
The method fo removing solder through hole components; where you can access the component fully,
per my days in medical instrumentation, is to use fine wire cutters and cut the  leads as close to the body of
The component as possible. Then remove the component. Next take a small pair of needle nose pliers grab the lead and heat the pad using a tip with a drop of solder on it. When molten pull the lead out. Then reapply heat and use a solder sucker to clear the pad and through hole. This reduces the chances of damaging the feed through hole.

I am not a big fan of solder wick as it can often lead to overheating the pad and damaging it.

Also if you are having trouble getting a small piece of solder off a pad or feed through. Re-apply solder to the whole pad and feed through and then try the solder sucker again.




David Wilcox
 

Go to their site 


And watch their videos on all their products.  Miracle stuff.

David J. Wilcox K8WPE’s iPad

On Jul 19, 2019, at 4:05 PM, V Zecchinelli <n1vin@...> wrote:

I just tried this on removing a 64 pin SMD chip and it worked fantastic.  Have had Chipquik for a while but never used.  Worked GREAT!!!
THANKS!!!
73 Vince N1VIN


On 7/19/2019 7:59 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
This is why I recommend Chipquik.

It is a solder with a very high freezing temperature.  You mix it in with the current connection with  a soldering iron and then it stays soft for about 10 seconds giving you time to remove the part.

I had to remove a very large transformer from a HF amp that had 2 circuit boards joined together that was about 3cm long.  Without Chipquik, it would have been near impossible.  

I'm blown away how easy it is and how much safer it is to your board than the traditional methods of solder suckers, vacuum stations and even solder wick.  

You might want to watch their video.  This is new school and much newer technology.

Mike va3mw

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 2:09 AM David <dokrent@...> wrote:
The method fo removing solder through hole components; where you can access the component fully,
per my days in medical instrumentation, is to use fine wire cutters and cut the  leads as close to the body of
The component as possible. Then remove the component. Next take a small pair of needle nose pliers grab the lead and heat the pad using a tip with a drop of solder on it. When molten pull the lead out. Then reapply heat and use a solder sucker to clear the pad and through hole. This reduces the chances of damaging the feed through hole.

I am not a big fan of solder wick as it can often lead to overheating the pad and damaging it.

Also if you are having trouble getting a small piece of solder off a pad or feed through. Re-apply solder to the whole pad and feed through and then try the solder sucker again.