Topics

AGC Installation

Richard Spohn
 

Ready to install AGC into a v5 which requires removal of the green pcb coating over 4 traces. Anyone know of a chemical that can do this without damage to the traces? Would use a small q-tip - Rich WB2GXM

Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android device

------ Original message------
From: Daniel Flanagan
Date: Sat, Feb 15, 2020 4:48 PM
Cc:
Subject:Re: [BITX20] The SAGA is COMPLETE!

OK... I played around in the ARRL DX Contest today and made about 100
QSOs on 20M with the uBITX.

I've been looking through the menus.... and have one question so far.
There are two menu selections for adjusting the BFO.  One says adjust
BFO and the other says adjust   CW RX BFO which lets you pick CWU and
CWL.  CWU was way off.  I adjusted CWU  setting until i heard normal
sounding CW signals.  I then tried CWL and it sounded pretty much the
same with no adjustment needed. It was out of wack before I made the
CWU adjustment.

So... My question is...  What is the difference between these two BFO
adjustment menus? Is it just allowing one to have different BFO
settings for SSB and CW?  The manual does not say anything here.

Maybe I'll take a peek at the source code for any comments in this area.

73, Dan (W3DF)







On 2/15/20, Jack, W8TEE via Groups.Io  wrote:
>  Thanks, Dean!
> Jack, W8TEE
>
>     On Saturday, February 15, 2020, 3:25:14 PM EST, Dean Souleles
>  wrote:
>
>  We hijacked Dan's thread!  In any case Dan, I no of no better user
> documentation than what you already have.
>
> Jack that is good advice to all developers.  As a 40+ year software
> developer, CTO and technology executive (and a much more recent HAM) I can
> attest to a couple of things....
>
> 1. I am not nearly a good  an electrical engineer as I am a software
> engineer.
> 2. Many HAMs writing software for Arduinos and Raspberry Pi's etc, could
> benefit from a programming 101 course with an emphasis on the basics of
> structured programming (and simple things like using readable variable names
> and using functions)  Most Arduino programs I've tried to adopt are
> mercifully brief but man they can be a challenge to reverse engineer.  Since
> C and all the languages derived from it (nearly everything) are notoriously
> cryptic in their notation, it is even more important that developers learn
> to structure and document.
> 3. User guides  are pretty poor - even when written by pros.  And worse when
> written by engineers.  I just got the 400 page document for my Rigol scope -
> sure there are descriptions of every single menu item - but very few
> descriptions of what things actually do or why, when or how you should use
> them  or what their limits are.  And it is made worse when the software guys
> insist on user messages like "Function limit exceeded." with no other
> context.
> 4. Message board (like this one) and YouTube are your friend - but your
> mileage will vary a lot, and you should double check everything - we've all
> had the experience of seeing things online stated with certainty that I know
> to be false.
>
> 5. Hams who want to learn to program well should read (and learn) from
> "Beginning C for Arduino" by a fellow named Jack Purdham.
>
> Cheers and 73,
>
> Dean
> KK4DAS
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
>



KE2GKB
 

Hey Richard,
Off hand I do not know of a chemical to strip the solder mask. However a sharp knife used to scrape at the solder mask not slice definitely works well and safely.
Based on what you are doing it sounds like you are installing a kit-projects AGC, if you are please read all the instructions to ensure that you cut and scrape the traces appropriately. We have hundreds of boards sold and many reports of happy customers who were shocked with how easy the task was. Even if it was initially seemingly scary to scrape at the solder mask!
If its not the above i feel still applies read the instructions and scraping is definitely safer then you think! Copper on the fiberglass is way more flexible/forgiving then you may realize
Tim 'KE2GKB' Keller


On Sat, Feb 15, 2020 at 9:32 PM Richard Spohn <wb2gxm@...> wrote:
Ready to install AGC into a v5 which requires removal of the green pcb coating over 4 traces. Anyone know of a chemical that can do this without damage to the traces? Would use a small q-tip - Rich WB2GXM

Sent from my MetroPCS 4G LTE Android device

------ Original message------
From: Daniel Flanagan
Date: Sat, Feb 15, 2020 4:48 PM
Cc:
Subject:Re: [BITX20] The SAGA is COMPLETE!

OK... I played around in the ARRL DX Contest today and made about 100
QSOs on 20M with the uBITX.

I've been looking through the menus.... and have one question so far.
There are two menu selections for adjusting the BFO.  One says adjust
BFO and the other says adjust   CW RX BFO which lets you pick CWU and
CWL.  CWU was way off.  I adjusted CWU  setting until i heard normal
sounding CW signals.  I then tried CWL and it sounded pretty much the
same with no adjustment needed. It was out of wack before I made the
CWU adjustment.

So... My question is...  What is the difference between these two BFO
adjustment menus? Is it just allowing one to have different BFO
settings for SSB and CW?  The manual does not say anything here.

Maybe I'll take a peek at the source code for any comments in this area.

73, Dan (W3DF)







On 2/15/20, Jack, W8TEE via Groups.Io  wrote:
>  Thanks, Dean!
> Jack, W8TEE
>
>     On Saturday, February 15, 2020, 3:25:14 PM EST, Dean Souleles
>  wrote:
>
>  We hijacked Dan's thread!  In any case Dan, I no of no better user
> documentation than what you already have.
>
> Jack that is good advice to all developers.  As a 40+ year software
> developer, CTO and technology executive (and a much more recent HAM) I can
> attest to a couple of things....
>
> 1. I am not nearly a good  an electrical engineer as I am a software
> engineer.
> 2. Many HAMs writing software for Arduinos and Raspberry Pi's etc, could
> benefit from a programming 101 course with an emphasis on the basics of
> structured programming (and simple things like using readable variable names
> and using functions)  Most Arduino programs I've tried to adopt are
> mercifully brief but man they can be a challenge to reverse engineer.  Since
> C and all the languages derived from it (nearly everything) are notoriously
> cryptic in their notation, it is even more important that developers learn
> to structure and document.
> 3. User guides  are pretty poor - even when written by pros.  And worse when
> written by engineers.  I just got the 400 page document for my Rigol scope -
> sure there are descriptions of every single menu item - but very few
> descriptions of what things actually do or why, when or how you should use
> them  or what their limits are.  And it is made worse when the software guys
> insist on user messages like "Function limit exceeded." with no other
> context.
> 4. Message board (like this one) and YouTube are your friend - but your
> mileage will vary a lot, and you should double check everything - we've all
> had the experience of seeing things online stated with certainty that I know
> to be false.
>
> 5. Hams who want to learn to program well should read (and learn) from
> "Beginning C for Arduino" by a fellow named Jack Purdham.
>
> Cheers and 73,
>
> Dean
> KK4DAS
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
>




--
Tim Keller - KE2GKB
https://shop.kit-projects.com

Curt
 

Richard

Glad you are asking. As stated, gently scrape enough coating to expose the copper. Once it will take solder, you have scraped enough.

Curt

Gary Anderson
 

An alternate method:
A fiberglass scratch brush works very well.
If in the mood to make things look great, mask off the area around where you are working with Kapton tape, or some of the good clear thick packing tape. Take the time to set the mask, the scratch brush will be quick work.
Mine is a fat one from Radio Shack that I must have purchased in the 80s.  Very similar to
 https://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI-KTI-70550-Sanding/dp/B000FN8H52/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=fiberglass+scratch+brush&qid=1581882939&sr=8-28

But there are better ones available.  A possible example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RMCFZM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002RMCFZM&pd_rd_w=7pfAr&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=M3l85&pf_rd_r=Z9NR48H7FFBGBJF6T0H3&pd_rd_r=459c57e8-93fe-441a-af69-33dbcf1995e8&smid=A3H9LZ81PN5OB0&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFaWEJSRVhCS1pVNE4mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwOTY1OTMxWUZEVEZQWktSWlFHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMDE2MTIyVjVPQzQ0R0o5UFJGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

This process will generate small pieces of fiberglass, so take appropriate handling precautions. e.g. don't use your breath the blow off the board.

All said, many have successfully scraped many a solder mask with a knife. It just wouldn't be my prescribed method, if the big tool box was around.

Build your confidence by working on old scrap PCBs what ever method you choose.

Rgds,
Gary