Date
1 - 20 of 26
Battery Pack #ubitx-v6
|
Since I'm still stuck in bed I have been working on a uBITX v6 basic kit. Since I'm in bed I am unable to run a power cord from my power supply to the uBITX. So I have been using a little battery pack made up of 8 rechargeable AA batteries. It has 12 volts for a bit but that is about it.
I'm guessing here that the three-wire connector P1 is for an optional battery pack. I'm planning to have some surgeries after the first of the year on my back. I'm planning on being able to be active then and I want to get back into riding my recumbent trike and operating the radio from city parks. I'm interested in having an onboard battery pack for my uBITX. Has anyone added a battery pack and if so could you please tell me how you did it and what batteries and associated parts did you use? Thank you -- '72 Aaron K5ATG |
|
|
|
ajparent1/kb1gmx
The general application is a 12V pack suitable for 10W radio. FYI AAcells will
not have a great lifespan not enough amp hours. An onboard pack... how big is the radio? how much room? Generally external is easier. Most resort to Bioennio or other lithium cells that are suitable replacement for the 7-9AH lead acid but less than half the weight. Of course the bog standard 12V gell cell is cheaper. For either fuses and protective devices are important, wires burning up in your bed as a result of a short would likely be seriously bad. Also a proper charger specific to either is seriously advised. When I was down years back the solution was set up a rolling table with things I must have and need. The other half was a great help assembling that. It helped me do things and also fight boredom. Allison ------------------ Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket. |
|
|
|
A good option for a battery pack is at Rural King, if you have one there. They sell a 6V gel ccll battery for deer feeders and two of them cost me $20 and when the two are connected in series (watch polarity) two of them will run the uBITX a long time. Rural King also has a 6/12V AC battery charger for about $12 for the batteries. Harbor Freight has a 12V solar panel now for about $15 but it is only rated to maintain batteries so it will not run the radio alone. The solar cell package has several interconnect cables so for battery charge level maintenance, it may still be interesting to some here whether used with the deer feeder batteries or other batteries. It was suggested to be used on cars, also. Bob KK5R
On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 03:51:34 PM EST, Aaron K5ATG via groups.io <k5atg@...> wrote:
Since I'm still stuck in bed I have been working on a uBITX v6 basic kit. Since I'm in bed I am unable to run a power cord from my power supply to the uBITX. So I have been using a little battery pack made up of 8 rechargeable AA batteries. It has 12 volts for a bit but that is about it. I'm guessing here that the three-wire connector P1 is for an optional battery pack. I'm planning to have some surgeries after the first of the year on my back. I'm planning on being able to be active then and I want to get back into riding my recumbent trike and operating the radio from city parks. I'm interested in having an onboard battery pack for my uBITX. Has anyone added a battery pack and if so could you please tell me how you did it and what batteries and associated parts did you use? Thank you -- '72 Aaron K5ATG
|
|
|
|
Gerald Sherman
Aaron - I am planning to run mine as a portable. I will be using
an external battery. I have a couple of LiFePO4 4-cell 9 amp-hour
batteries. One of them should be good for several hours along
with a Hamcrafters K44 keyer. I am planning to upgrade to the
N8MM/VU3AGO software. This will have to wait for better weather -
I can't put up an antenna at my apartment & I have no
intention of outdoor operation during a Winnipeg winter. Gerry Sherman Sent by the Linux Thunderbird On 2022-11-19 20:51, Aaron K5ATG via
groups.io wrote:
Since I'm still stuck in bed I have been working on a uBITX v6 basic kit. Since I'm in bed I am unable to run a power cord from my power supply to the uBITX. So I have been using a little battery pack made up of 8 rechargeable AA batteries. It has 12 volts for a bit but that is about it. |
|
|
|
Yeah Gerald it looks like an external will be the best option. Don't put it off too long or you will be stuck in the hot humid tropical weather that Canada is known for lol.
As for the AA battery pack that I am using. I'm not transmitting with it. I am experimenting with possibly relocating the Raduino and an internal ATU, so I am using the AA battery pack to check that I have it set up right. This battery pack is normally used to power a Cricket and Hilltopper, it works well for them. -- '72 Aaron K5ATG |
|
|
|
Another option is Lion Batteries. They are small and are not as limited as other types. My son in CA (N5DIM) goes mountain-topping and has a go-pack and he uses Lion. He said there are sources for them on the Internet and what he uses costs about $65 — or did when he bought it. It's worth checking out for their compactness. Also, Walmart has Batteries for emergency auto starting that may be interesting and they come in two versions: for 4cyl and 6cyl engines. Have to make sure they are no more than 14/15V on the output, though. Personally, I'm not going for more than 14V because I could have nightmares if my V6 radios started to smoke. Bob KK5R
On Saturday, November 19, 2022 at 08:30:37 PM EST, Gerald Sherman <ve4gks@...> wrote:
Aaron - I am planning to run mine as a portable. I will be using
an external battery. I have a couple of LiFePO4 4-cell 9 amp-hour
batteries. One of them should be good for several hours along
with a Hamcrafters K44 keyer. I am planning to upgrade to the
N8MM/VU3AGO software. This will have to wait for better weather -
I can't put up an antenna at my apartment & I have no
intention of outdoor operation during a Winnipeg winter. Gerry Sherman Sent by the Linux Thunderbird On 2022-11-19 20:51, Aaron K5ATG via
groups.io wrote:
Since I'm still stuck in bed I have been working on a uBITX v6
basic kit. Since I'm in bed I am unable to run a power cord from
my power supply to the uBITX. So I have been using a little
battery pack made up of 8 rechargeable AA batteries. It has 12
volts for a bit but that is about it. I'm guessing here that the three-wire connector P1 is for an optional battery pack. I'm planning to have some surgeries after the first of the year on my back. I'm planning on being able to be active then and I want to get back into riding my recumbent trike and operating the radio from city parks. I'm interested in having an onboard battery pack for my uBITX. Has anyone added a battery pack and if so could you please tell me how you did it and what batteries and associated parts did you use? Thank you -- '72 Aaron K5ATG
|
|
|
|
Where can I learn more about N8MM/VU3AGO software?
That sounds new to me -- '72 Aaron K5ATG |
|
|
|
Gerald Sherman
Sorry - i had the name wrong. https://groups.io/g/BITX20/files/uBITX_6_N8ME_2_VU3GAO_Mods.zip This is what I was referring to. Gerry Sherman Sent by the Linux Thunderbird On 2022-11-20 02:23, Aaron K5ATG via
groups.io wrote:
Where can I learn more about N8MM/VU3AGO software? |
|
|
|
Thank you for the info. I'll read the manual.
-- '72 Aaron K5ATG |
|
|
|
I routinely use this Lithium pack with my uBitX V5 to run portable. It is handy in that it has a 5v USB socket for the little RPi Zero 2W that handles digital modes. I have run all day on a charge and literally for days with the charger plugged in to the battery and operating the rig remotely. I don't know if it small enough to be mounted inside the OEM V6 case, but it is pretty small.
https://www.amazon.com/Talentcell-Rechargeable-6000mAh-Battery-Portable/dp/B00MF70BPU/ref=pd_ybh_a_sccl_109/142-6386693-8068335?pd_rd_w=BUUKh&content-id=amzn1.sym.67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_p=67f8cf21-ade4-4299-b433-69e404eeecf1&pf_rd_r=PYRK0PSDA47FXAT0E528&pd_rd_wg=oD0zE&pd_rd_r=89ad87bf-4538-4a04-a8d8-5bd236e3dca8&pd_rd_i=B00MF70BPU&psc=1 =Vic= |
|
|
|
Thanks, Vic
That is something worth checking out. I wonder how it would do with the uBITX V6 with the larger TFT screen (Does your uBITX V5 have the TFT or LCD display? I'm not sure when the uBITX with the 2.8" TFT came out.) I've always used one of those $10 cell phone charger battery packs to power my Raspberry Pi in the field. If I were to be able to start operating portable a lot, is it possible to change my display to a LCD instead of the TFT? -- '72 Aaron K5ATG |
|
|
|
Aaron, my V4 is much modified with the KD8CEC sketch and the Nextion color touch screen display that is the same size as the V6 display. Plus, I am running the second Arduino processor and a separate AGC board, so I am sure my power use is at least the same as a V6 if not more, but no problem for that battery pack.
I understand that electrically the V6 is the same circuit as the V5 that used a 2-line LCD display, so you could go backwards using the V5 software or selecting the appropriate display from the KD8CEC software options. =Vic= |
|
|
|
N1EDC
My go-to has always been cheap lipo drone batteries. You can get a 4-5AH 3S drone battery for about $30. Throw in a $10 balance charger and a $3 battery voltage alarm and you have a complete battery system for under $50 that is lightweight and puts out plenty of current for high draw TX.
The only labor required is replacing the battery connector or sourcing an adapter. |
|
|
|
N1EDC
Here are a couple links:
5AH battery for $35 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-3s-30c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html Charger for $8.50 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-b3ac-compact-charger-us-plug.html Voltage alarm for $4 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-bx100-1-8s-twin-buzzer-lipo-life-li-ion-voltage-checker-black.html It's honestly hard to beat that kind of value. Plug the battery into the charger on the balance port to charge, and in use plug the voltage checker into the balance port and the radio into the power lead. When the voltage checker starts (loudly!) beeping at you the battery is dead and you need to stop using it. The beeper is crazy loud and designed to be heard when flying on a drone, so I fill the two ports for the beepers with hot glue, which reduces it to indoor volume. |
|
|
|
I agree, that does seem unbeatable. And lighter than two 6V gel batteries. Probably goes farther before requiring recharge, too. Thanks. Bob KK5R
On Monday, November 21, 2022 at 09:57:54 AM EST, N1EDC <dragonfanatic90@...> wrote:
Here are a couple links: 5AH battery for $35 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-3s-30c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html Charger for $8.50 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-b3ac-compact-charger-us-plug.html Voltage alarm for $4 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-bx100-1-8s-twin-buzzer-lipo-life-li-ion-voltage-checker-black.html It's honestly hard to beat that kind of value. Plug the battery into the charger on the balance port to charge, and in use plug the voltage checker into the balance port and the radio into the power lead. When the voltage checker starts (loudly!) beeping at you the battery is dead and you need to stop using it. The beeper is crazy loud and designed to be heard when flying on a drone, so I fill the two ports for the beepers with hot glue, which reduces it to indoor volume. |
|
|
|
ajparent1/kb1gmx
Its a good deal. Some notes: Also its 3s, that means 3 cells in series or 12.6v fully charged and 11.4v during the usefull part of a charge cycle. The latter may be marginal for some radios.
|
|
|
|
Keith VE7GDH
Allison KB1GMX wrote…
They can catch fire if mis handled.My preference would be 4S LiFePO4. The voltage curve is much flatter during discharge, you can get more charge-discharge cycles from them, and more useful energy from them. They are also much safer. -- 73 Keith VE7GDH |
|
|
|
Gerald Sherman
From what I have seen & heard, a 4-cell LiFePO4 battery is easier to handle and safer than Li-ion. I have discharge curve info on the iron battery, and I am attaching it. This seems to be publicly available.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Gerry Sherman Sent by the Linux Thunderbird On 2022-11-21 18:42, Keith VE7GDH wrote:
Allison KB1GMX wrote…They can catch fire if mis handled.My preference would be 4S LiFePO4. The voltage curve is much flatter during discharge, you can get more charge-discharge cycles from them, and more useful energy from them. They are also much safer. 
|
|
|
|
Max
I've seen those charts before. I have to wonder though, since if you charge up a LiFePo4 battery and let it sit over night it will show about 13.25 volts. According to the chart it would already be down to almost 70%. I don't think so! I know mine aren't. I have a 5ah, 12ah, three 20ah and four 100ah. They all show the same voltage. Great batteries except you can't charge them if the battery temperature is below freezing, but then again I don't know of any lithium type battery that you can. Max
On Monday, November 21, 2022, 02:18:05 PM CST, Gerald Sherman <ve4gks@...> wrote:
From what I have seen & heard, a 4-cell LiFePO4 battery is easier to handle and safer than Li-ion. I have discharge curve info on the iron battery, and I am attaching it. This seems to be publicly available. Gerry Sherman Sent by the Linux Thunderbird On 2022-11-21 18:42, Keith VE7GDH wrote: > Allison KB1GMX wrote… > >> They can catch fire if mis handled. > My preference would be 4S LiFePO4. The voltage curve is much flatter during discharge, you can get more charge-discharge cycles from them, and more useful energy from them. They are also much safer. > > -- > 73 Keith VE7GDH > > > > > 
|
|
|
|
ajparent1/kb1gmx
Gerald,
That is absolutely true. First LIFePo4 the nominal votlage per cell is 2.7 fully charged, and 3.2V during extended discharge. Where the LiPo is 4.2V per cell and 3.7 during discharge. That makes a LiFePo4 a better match as a 4S (4 cells series) for nominal 12V gear. I have experience with both and allowing for the voltage issues they are both good. I opted for the liFePo4 for the 20Ah and 100Ah batteries I have as they hit the votages needed for the gear I wish to run. At the other extreme the 3S Lipo (pouch and 18650 cells) ar nearly perfect for the FT817 that behaves well at 11V and heats less at below 13V. SO I have a nice 11AH (3S4P) pack made up with BMB (battery management board) that makes it easier to charge safely and protect the battery. Generally the easy way is the complete replacement for the lead gell cells and in equivilent Ah size using LifePo4 you get much less weight and generally many times longer lifetime with most rated for far more than 1000 charge discharge cycles or about 5 to 10 times that of lead gell cells. I've never had a gell cell last 200 cycles and most failed much sooner if discharged to 40% remaining. Also lead requires (MUST) when discharged be recharged 100%. Example Amazon https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-LiFePO4-Battery-Rechargeable-Phosphate/dp/B08R1FWW5P/ref=sr_1_9?crid=WHZ7YN105SUI&keywords=lithium+5ah+12+volt+battery&qid=1669065616&sprefix=lithium+5ah+12+vold+bttery%2Caps%2C1696&sr=8-9 Yes that's one long line! What it is: 12V 6Ah lifepo4 weighing in a 1.63 pounds and with charger for 47.99 Opinion, I have three larger batteries (12, 24 and 100ah) sold under the TalentCell label the oldest is 3 years of use and the newest is 2 years. Works as expected. No, they don't pay me. Allison ------------------ Please use the forum, offline and private will go to bit bucket. |
|
|