Are all the Bitx version fundamentally the same?
Robert AG6LK
Hello All,
I’m new to the uBitx scene. I’m contemplating buying a v6. My question is are all the versions basically the same? The reason I ask is that there are a lot of mod articles written for v3, v4 and v5. Can these mods also be used for v6? I appreciate all of the time everyone puts into helping each other on this forum. Thanks in advance for you answers. 73, Robert, AG6LK
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Robert: I think you will find that mods to V6 are so marked in the post that makes a mod. You should also look at the posts on ubitx.net. There's a lot of useful information there, too. Jack, W8TEE
On Thursday, March 11, 2021, 4:06:13 PM EST, Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote:
Hello All, I’m new to the uBitx scene. I’m contemplating buying a v6. My question is are all the versions basically the same? The reason I ask is that there are a lot of mod articles written for v3, v4 and v5. Can these mods also be used for v6? I appreciate all of the time everyone puts into helping each other on this forum. Thanks in advance for you answers. 73, Robert, AG6LK -- Jack, W8TEE
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Evan Hand
Robert,
The 4 µBITX models that come from HFSignals have basically the same design, so most improvement mods do work with the v6. One modification path, KD8CEC mods, will not work with the stock v6 display. There is a 2.8" Nextion display that can be made to fit in the v6 case. With that hardware addition, the other modifications along that line can be made to it. Because there are slight variations in the versions, some adaptation may be required to make it work. One example is the Kit Parts AGC requires another resistor and a different tie-in point but the main circuit board mounts in the same place with the same performance. There are similar examples for other mods. I am not aware of any enhancement type of mod that does not work. Some, like the external relay modification to solve the v3 and v4 harmonic issues, are not required. The other thing that is different with the v6 is the moving of the jacks, ports, and some of the controls to the mainboard to remove any soldering requirements. Case mods like those from https://amateurradiokits.in/ do require significant changes because the controls are no longer separate from the mainboard. This means you need to look closely at any enclosure to make sure it will fit. You are asking a very general question, and as such the answers could be misleading based on the person answering interpretation. Are there a couple of mods that you are interested in? If you let us know which ones we can answer your question with better accuracy. 73 Evan AC9TU
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Curt
Robert
The v6 is a more refined design, needing less mods than the earlier v3 and v4. A v6 will be useful as is, many mods are added creature comforts or customization. The early versions were an outgrowth of those who built them from scratch. If you get a v6, your operation of it will encourage whether you are motivated for any mods. Curt wb8yyy
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On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 3:06 PM Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote: Hello All, Dale Hardin Elberta, AL -- Dale Hardin KS4NS Elberta, AL
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I'll leave it to the experts to provide the answers, but I would LOVE to see a list of fixes needed for each version of the board. Dale
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 5:16 PM Dale Hardin <joe.dale.hardin@...> wrote:
Dale Hardin Elberta, AL --
Dale Hardin KS4NS Elberta, AL
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Curt
Needed fixes were quite in vogue for v3 and v4. For v5 and v6 there may be possibly no needed fixes.
Some folk are taken back by transmit power not being flat across the bands, to me its a feature to have a little more output on 80m. If you want to transmit on 160m you need a low pass filter, I just built an external one. I wanted a cw filter so I built an adjustable SCAF into the case, and added a homebrew agc. For v4 we needed relay fixes to improve transmit spurious. 73 curt
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Evan Hand
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 05:18 PM, Dale Hardin wrote:
I'll leave it to the experts to provide the answers, but I would LOVE to see a list of fixes needed for each version of the board. DaleI am not the expert, but there is a good list on the ubitx.net web pages. Other wise check in the files and wiki sections of this board. 73 Evan AC9TU
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Robert AG6LK
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Evan Hand
Robert,
If you like to tinker then this IS the kit for you. There are so many possibilities to enhance and learn. For me, it is an EXCELLENT choice. 73 Evan AC9TU
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Arv Evans
Dale It is not that easy. Each person seems to customize their uBITX to meet their own personal needs and ideas. Most significant difference between uBITX V3, V4, V5, and V6 is audio amplifier and spurious emission control. Each version is intended to be an improvement on the earlier version. Beyond that it is up to the builder to make whatever changes they feel is necessary for their needs. Others have recently noted a range of customizations in their own posts. Arv _._
On Thu, Mar 11, 2021 at 4:19 PM Dale Hardin <joe.dale.hardin@...> wrote:
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Don - KM4UDX
As a happy award wining owner of the much maligned V4, I say get your all tiddy up V6, with its perfect RF relays, compliant spur emissions, pre mounted jacks, fine audio output, and then, well break something so you can enjoy the joy of fixing. Or add some LED, or put 24v on the finals, or embed a ATU, or really the list of enhancement, tweaks and so on are endless.
One of my most fav enhancements embeded a Prasbery Pi into the uBITX case. I'm crazy for digital ops, so getting an embedded Fldigi was the total bomb. So you can see there are options....even with the highly refined and perfectly perfect hoity-toity V6. Don Km4udx
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Eli, KO4LGS
On Sat, Mar 13, 2021 at 09:44 AM, Don - KM4UDX wrote:
crazy for digital ops, so getting a Don, I am also looking to even out the power at 10m and 20m, and am researching some of the upgrades mentioned. I have notes, and hope to post them once I get done with my updates.
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Robert AG6LK
Hi Eli,
im going to have a V6 here pretty so also, I hope. Can you explain in detail, ( I’m a newbie ), how you have your V6 set up for digital? How are you activating the PTT? Thanks, 73 Robert, Ag6lk
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Jerry Gaffke
Good info.
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A minor correction: The Nano has a USB-Mini connector, not the USB-Micro that you find on most Android phones. Jerry, KE7ER
On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 10:33 AM, Evan Hand wrote: I have an EasyDigi board that I really only use the two isolation transformers. For PTT I use the CAT capabilities with a Yeasu FT-857 radio setting. The CAT connects through the USB port on the Nano and the PC. The cable is USB-a on one end, and USB-Micro on the other (NOT the most recent USB Mini for android phones). This is with the WSJT-X software.
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Arv Evans
Jerry I have older Nano boards that have the Mini-USB connector, but the latest purchases all have the Micro-USB connector. While this does make the Arduino use same cables as cell phones, it also adds to the confusion. USB-Mini cables are getting more and more difficult to find and purchase. Arv _._
Good info.
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Evan Hand
Jerry and Arv,
Thank you for the corrections. I did get the mini and micro mixed up. I guess the best bet is to wait for the Nano to be delivered and then match the connector on the board. Robert Hopefully, you have not ordered the cables yet. I will delete the message that is in error so others are not confused. 73 Evan AC9TU
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Jerry Gaffke
While we are on the subject of USB cables, be careful of those meant only for charging.
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Many USB cables these days save $0.05 worth of copper wire by not including the data wires, just power and ground wires. These cables often provided free when you buy some electronic device. More than once, I've spent hours chasing trouble when trying to download to a Nano only to find that I have grabbed the wrong cable, which subsequently gets thrown in the trash. Given the non-informative error messages you get from the Arduino-IDE, it's very easy to get hung up on this. Jerry
On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 12:46 PM, Evan Hand wrote: Jerry and Arv,
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Eli, KO4LGS
Robert,
This is how I set up for FT8. I haven't tried much else. All of this is on a windows PC...although I have a rasperry Pi I may switch to. I am doing the following: 1. Installed WSJT-X- https://www.physics.princeton.edu/pulsar/k1jt/wsjtx.html 2. Installed a timesynctool- https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/wsjt-x-and-setting-windows-10-clock-seconds.592212/ 3. Connect uBITX to PC via USB cable 3a. Check Device Manager for COM port 4. Connect uBITX to PC via USB Sound Card- uBITX Mic to PC Earphone/uBITX speaker (front panel) to PC Mic 4a. I had to "customize" the Audio cable from the USB soundcard to uBITX- https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/84452 5. Turn On uBITX (with antenna connected) 6. Check Settings (configuration) in WSJT-X- 6.a Radio Rig: Yaesu FT-817 Serial Port: COM8 (based on step 3, not that this can change if you plug in to a USB hub instead) Baud: 38400 Data Bits, Stop Bits, Handshake- All Default PTT Method; CAT Mode: USB Split Operation: Rig PTT method: CAT 6b. Audio Input: USB Sound (step 4) Speakers: USB Sound (step 4) 7. Cross fingers.... Actually, this worked well. WSJT is doing the PTT no trouble. I probably could have used the sound ports on my PC as well, but I had the USB device lying around, and could limit the sounds going to it while still hearing my PC through regular audio. Contact me if you need more information. Regards, Eli KO4LGS
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Robert AG6LK
Eli, What type of USB connection is on the uBitx v6, is the normal USB connector?
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