Topics

Raduino / LCD display

Keith VE7GDH
 

I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs. The board that the Nano & Si5351 are mounted on just "hangs" on the header coming from the LCD display. Wanting to prevent it from moving around and possibly shorting something out, I put a stand-off between the boards. The mounting holes on the Arduino board don't quite line up, but I managed to use a single stand-off in one corner and it should prevent any movement. Perhaps a future re-design will have the distance between the mounting holes all the same.

I used a cutting disk in a rotary tool to cut the opening for the LCD display in the plastic (PVC) case. I marked the opening on the back and cut "inside the lines" and used a file to get it to the final size. I'm sure the fumes from the PVC was a bit un-healthy while I was cutting, but it did the job.

My question (and no, I didn't try checking with a meter before it was mounted) is do I have to worry about the metalic stand-offs shorting anything between the two boards that shouldn't be connected? I'm assuming this is a non-issue, but thought I would ask before it is powered up, hopefully later today.

A few pics are attached, but not of the Raduino stand-offs. I drilled a few holes for ventilation behind the IRF510 heat sink so it can get a bit of air. Now the wiring starts!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Ben Kuhn
 

No problems using the standoffs between the boards.  My mounting technique is similar to yours only it didn't come out quite as nice and I had to 3d print a bezel for the screen hihi.

On Jul 16, 2017 1:50 PM, "Keith VE7GDH" <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs. The board that the Nano & Si5351 are mounted on just "hangs" on the header coming from the LCD display. Wanting to prevent it from moving around and possibly shorting something out, I put a stand-off between the boards. The mounting holes on the Arduino board don't quite line up, but I managed to use a single stand-off in one corner and it should prevent any movement. Perhaps a future re-design will have the distance between the mounting holes all the same.

I used a cutting disk in a rotary tool to cut the opening for the LCD display in the plastic (PVC) case. I marked the opening on the back and cut "inside the lines" and used a file to get it to the final size. I'm sure the fumes from the PVC was a bit un-healthy while I was cutting, but it did the job.

My question (and no, I didn't try checking with a meter before it was mounted) is do I have to worry about the metalic stand-offs shorting anything between the two boards that shouldn't be connected? I'm assuming this is a non-issue, but thought I would ask before it is powered up, hopefully later today.

A few pics are attached, but not of the Raduino stand-offs. I drilled a few holes for ventilation behind the IRF510 heat sink so it can get a bit of air. Now the wiring starts!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH





Keith VE7GDH
 

I said...

> I put a stand-off between the boards...

Here's a pic of the stand-off. It's on the lower
left corner when viewed from the back. There's also
one showing the holes behind the heat sink. On the
next one, I might get a mica washer for the IRF510.
If I did that, I would cut a hole the size of the
heat sink and have it hang out the back for even
better cooling.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Keith VE7GDH
 

Ben KE0KKM wrote...

No problems using the standoffs between the boards.
My mounting technique is similar to yours only it
didn't come out quite as nice and I had to 3d
print a bezel for the screen hihi.
Thanks for the confirmation! Some years ago, I didn't
think 3D printers would be very useful. Now that I can
see that they can be made for printing cases, bezels
and pencil holders, I'm thinking of getting one. I
think it will be a nice addition for radio, Raspberry
Pi and Arduino projects.

PS - the opening opening I cut for the LCD display
isn't perfect. It looks OK at arms length, especially
if you squint. If you look really close, there are
some imperfections, but I'm happy enough with it.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

terry hughes
 

hi

you will not believe this but as an expert in the gentle art of bodging, i put a lump of blue tack between the two boards of the raduion

terry gm4dso

Ben Kuhn
 

I'm not at home so I can't send a pic of mine but that's exactly what I did too.  Actually, I managed to get all 4 lined up but it was a pain.

On Jul 16, 2017 3:23 PM, "Keith VE7GDH" <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
Ben KE0KKM wrote...

> No problems using the standoffs between the boards.
> My mounting technique is similar to yours only it
> didn't come out quite as nice and I had to 3d
> print a bezel for the screen hihi.

Thanks for the confirmation! Some years ago, I didn't
think 3D printers would be very useful. Now that I can
see that they can be made for printing cases, bezels
and pencil holders, I'm thinking of getting one. I
think it will be a nice addition for radio, Raspberry
Pi and Arduino projects.

PS - the opening opening I cut for the LCD display
isn't perfect. It looks OK at arms length, especially
if you squint. If you look really close, there are
some imperfections, but I'm happy enough with it.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH



Michael Hagen
 

I used   ~ 0.175" spacers.  3D printed Bezel and flat head screws through the front panel.

You can see the spacers in the pictures.  The back light on the LCD sticks up, so you need spacer for it to clear and keep things

parallel.

Mike, WA6ISP



On 7/16/2017 1:56 PM, terryhugheskirkcudbright via Groups.Io wrote:
hi

you will not believe this but as an expert in the gentle art of bodging, i put a lump of blue tack between the two boards of the raduion

terry gm4dso

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

David Wilcox <Djwilcox01@...>
 

Keith,

Looks good to me. I have a similar case coming so will be interested in what works and doesn't.

Dave K8WPE

On Jul 16, 2017, at 2:49 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote:

I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs. The board that the Nano & Si5351 are mounted on just "hangs" on the header coming from the LCD display. Wanting to prevent it from moving around and possibly shorting something out, I put a stand-off between the boards. The mounting holes on the Arduino board don't quite line up, but I managed to use a single stand-off in one corner and it should prevent any movement. Perhaps a future re-design will have the distance between the mounting holes all the same.

I used a cutting disk in a rotary tool to cut the opening for the LCD display in the plastic (PVC) case. I marked the opening on the back and cut "inside the lines" and used a file to get it to the final size. I'm sure the fumes from the PVC was a bit un-healthy while I was cutting, but it did the job.

My question (and no, I didn't try checking with a meter before it was mounted) is do I have to worry about the metalic stand-offs shorting anything between the two boards that shouldn't be connected? I'm assuming this is a non-issue, but thought I would ask before it is powered up, hopefully later today.

A few pics are attached, but not of the Raduino stand-offs. I drilled a few holes for ventilation behind the IRF510 heat sink so it can get a bit of air. Now the wiring starts!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH





<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>
<image6.jpeg>

David Wilcox <Djwilcox01@...>
 

Pray tell. What is "bodging"?  Is it a requirement for British ham radio?

Dave K8WPE

On Jul 16, 2017, at 4:56 PM, terryhugheskirkcudbright via Groups.Io <terryhugheskirkcudbright@...> wrote:

hi

you will not believe this but as an expert in the gentle art of bodging, i put a lump of blue tack between the two boards of the raduion

terry gm4dso

Keith VE7GDH
 

Dave K8WPE wrote...

Looks good to me. I have a similar case coming so
will be interested in what works and doesn't.
Thanks to you and all that commented! I just noticed
one little snag. It looks like I can just get to the
USB connector on the end of the Arduino. I have a
10-turn tuning pot on the way. I won't be able to
access it when that is installed! Another reason to
use a rotary encoder instead. A week or two back, there
was talk of a USB extension cable to extend the connector
to the outside. I ordered one and it should be here
soon. Now I know why everyone was ordering a 90 degree
connector! I'll have to get one of those.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Jerry Gaffke
 

bodge:   "make or repair (something) badly or clumsily"
and  "
Bodging is a traditional woodturning craft, using green (unseasoned) wood to make chair legs and other cylindrical parts of chairs."

Bodging could well be a useful skill for the radio amateur.
I nailed both senses of the word years ago when I hacked up my Arc5 transitter
to have a pi-network output using a chunk broomstick for a coil form..

A rather cool word, may have to start using it in lieu of "jerry rigged".

Jerry, KE7ER



On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 02:27 pm, David Wilcox wrote:
Pray tell. What is "bodging"?  Is it a requirement for British ham radio?
 

Dexter N Muir
 

Akin to "fudging", just the Brit version. A bit like "Heath Robinson" versus "Rube Goldberg" :) .

Keith VE7GDH
 

I wrote...

It looks like I can just get to the USB connector
on the end of the Arduino. I have a 10-turn tuning
pot on the way.
Actually I just checked. Even with the "stock" pot I
can't get a straight cable into the Arduino connector.
I can get to it if I temporarily remove the pot or
take the Arduino/Si5351 off the LCD display. I'm
going to order the following cable, but I'm still
not entirely sure it will fit. If it doesn't, I'll
position things a bit differently on the next BITX40.
Again, I'll use a rotary encoder on the next one.
It won't take up as much space as the 10 turn pot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-USB-2-0-B-Female-To-Mini-5-Pin-Male-Down-Angle-Panel-Mount-Printer-Cable-50cm-/171894828565?hash=item2805baee15:g:91cAAOSw~gRVz2OZ

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Dexter N Muir
 

The whole of Electronics is accomplished by 'bodging'! Take a look at (particularly Resistance) tolerances, and resultant voltage and current tolerances. Resistors are marked with a 'tolerance' colour-band. Really early (carbon-rod) resistors had body-end-spot for 1st-2nd-multiplier figures. Tolerance was 20%, and that was close enough / good enough for the valve / 'toob' tech of the day - construction of the devices required no better. Solid-state brought in closer tolerances (though manufacture of the devices still had/has intrinsic variation/s), silver>gold>red>black for 10>5>2>1%, but still close enough is good enough (in 'Kiwi' parlance "she'll be right, mate".

John P
 

On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 11:49 am, Keith VE7GDH wrote:
I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs.
I used nylon standoffs. They are much easier to cut to custom lengths than metal ones. It's a little hard to see in the picture (attached), but I put a nut on top of the between-the-boards standoff so I could pull the Raduino board without undoing the LCD board. I did that primarily because until I installed the USB extension cable, I was having to remove the Raduino to do updates.


 
--
John - WA2FZW

Vince Vielhaber
 

I used self stick standoffs from Tayda. No screws to show thru the front panel and it hasn't moved since I put it in. It did require some minor trimming of the base of the standoffs tho.

Sorry, no pics.

Vince.

On 07/16/2017 06:47 PM, John P wrote:
On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 11:49 am, Keith VE7GDH wrote:

I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening
in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was
thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case,
but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs.

I used nylon standoffs. They are much easier to cut to custom lengths
than metal ones. It's a little hard to see in the picture (attached),
but I put a nut on top of the between-the-boards standoff so I could
pull the Raduino board without undoing the LCD board. I did that
primarily because until I installed the USB extension cable, I was
having to remove the Raduino to do updates.

Dr Fred Hambrecht
 

UK for Kludging, jerry rigging etc… One day they will learn English   :>)

v/r

Fred W4JLE

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of David Wilcox via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 17:28
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Raduino / LCD display

 

Pray tell. What is "bodging"?  Is it a requirement for British ham radio?

 

Dave K8WPE


On Jul 16, 2017, at 4:56 PM, terryhugheskirkcudbright via Groups.Io <terryhugheskirkcudbright@...> wrote:

hi

you will not believe this but as an expert in the gentle art of bodging, i put a lump of blue tack between the two boards of the raduion

terry gm4dso

Dexter N Muir
 

On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 03:08 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
... "jerry rigged".
Another americanism, a.k.a. Jury-rigged (nautical term, pre-US  Royal Navy, meaning 'rigged' (ship's mast rigging) by a jury (a committee of 'landlubbers' that can't commit itself to a verdict).

Hopefully educational ...

Jerry Gaffke
 

A fascinating discussion on this in  https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/132868/jury-rigged...jerry-rigged/132919


Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary
, Eleventh Edition (2003) says that jerry-rigged goes back only to 1959. It speculates that the term is an amalgam of jury-rigged (dating to 1788) and jerry-built (dating to 1869). The jury in jury-rigged doesn't involve a panel of one's peers, however; it means "makeshift" and appears in the Middle English jory saile meaning "makeshift sail." ....   and on and on and on ...

They then move on to explore where "jerry-built" came from.  No conclusions but several interesting leads.
Regardless of origins, I've got plenty of prime examples of "jerry-built" sitting on the desk here in front of me.

Jerry


On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 04:49 pm, Dexter N Muir wrote:
Another americanism, a.k.a. Jury-rigged (nautical term, pre-US  Royal Navy, meaning 'rigged' (ship's mast rigging) by a jury (a committee of 'landlubbers' that can't commit itself to a verdict).

David Wilcox <Djwilcox01@...>
 

I love it.  I am an expert bodger.

Dave K8WPE

On Jul 16, 2017, at 6:08 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:

bodge:   "make or repair (something) badly or clumsily"
and  "
Bodging is a traditional woodturning craft, using green (unseasoned) wood to make chair legs and other cylindrical parts of chairs."

Bodging could well be a useful skill for the radio amateur.
I nailed both senses of the word years ago when I hacked up my Arc5 transitter
to have a pi-network output using a chunk broomstick for a coil form..

A rather cool word, may have to start using it in lieu of "jerry rigged".

Jerry, KE7ER



On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 02:27 pm, David Wilcox wrote:
Pray tell. What is "bodging"?  Is it a requirement for British ham radio?