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Almost finished, for now...

Brian D. K2BRZ
 

Just got the case finished and am happy with the results. So far I've burned my finger, pinched my palm with pliers, smoked a pot (10-turn), and blew through 3 fuses trying to measure voltage.

On the other hand:

  • Raduino v1.09 successfully compiled and loaded
  • Got front firing speaker/phones port working nicely
  • Will be adding push button function, line in and PTT for digital, keyer jack
  • Still need to wire the LEDs on the front for Rx and Tx
  • Will calibrate once the push button is in

Still have a couple of questions though.

  • When checking the PA-Power, do I connect the VOM to the +/brown lead and the -/black lead or do I attach the negative to the Power ground?
  • Do I still need a calibrate switch with v1.09?
  • I'll be using the Bourns 10 turn pot, I know the pins are different than the single turn but in what order do I connect them? Purple on back, blue in middle, yellow in front? The only way that somewhat worked before the pot died was purple, yellow, blue but the freq went the opposite direction of the pot turning.
  • For line in and PTT, can I just connect them to the respective lines coming off of the handset adapter? Or is there a better way to hook those up? My thought is to splice the 2 positive PTT wires (from handset and jack on back) together to go the PTT brown wire, and the 2 negatives to the PTT black wire. Would do the same for the mic and line in wires to the mic port. Seems simple enough to work.

Thanks for everyone's help so far! It's been a long while since I've actually used my EE knowledge and it's slowly coming back, just not all of it...

73,

Brian, K2BRZ


Allard PE1NWL
 

Hi Brian,

In the new software the cal button still works but you don't need it anymore -  calibration can now also be done via the Settings menu with the function button.

I'm using a Vishay 10-turn pot, this is how I wired it up. I think Vishay has the same connection layout at Bourne.



73, Allard PE1NWL

Brian D. K2BRZ
 

Thanks, Allard. I'll verify that with my multimeter once it gets here. The other thing I may add is a simple ground bus. A lot of these mods seem to require a path to ground and the Power ground is crowded already...


Brian, K2BRZ

philip yates
 

My Vishay has the same connections, as just wired mine up.

Phil - G7BZD

On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Brian D. K2BRZ <kd2iog@...> wrote:

Thanks, Allard. I'll verify that with my multimeter once it gets here. The other thing I may add is a simple ground bus. A lot of these mods seem to require a path to ground and the Power ground is crowded already...


Brian, K2BRZ


Brian D. K2BRZ
 

Yup, that worked. I also put in the function button and got it working. I'm loving this radio now! Still have yet to make a contact but am more comfortable with the radio and happy that my skills haven't completely disappeared. Will probably update to 1.10 but am pretty happy where I'm at.

My (capacitance) hat is off to you all! Wish your families a happy Mother's Day.

Brian, K2BRZ

marco giannone
 

Hi Zeff,

as for the Bourns potentiometer, mine was some light blu stuff marked Bourns ,made in Mexico , pretty suspicious since I bought two of those on Banggood.
Long story short, one worked fine for a little while then went berserk to the point of being unusable (frequency rolling up and down randomly) so I replaced it with the other new one that proved to be just dead on arrival.

So I went back to the original simple pot coming with the kit that works just fine. I am now looking for some genuine Bourns pot or equivalent.

Regarding the wiring, on mine it is marked on the pot body, yours could be diffeernt so just make sure to identify the cursor and then hook it to the violet wire. Use a multimeter and check that the resistance increases and decreases smoothly when turning the pot and stops changing when reaching either ends.Then as for the jellow and green leads ,solder them to the other  terminals of the pot .If you are lucky (50% probability) the frequency will increase as you turn clock wise if not invert them and it will be OK.

I repurposed both a Baofeng mike and a ex military handset. I used a 4 pin mike connector (one common for the ground , one for the loudspeaker, one for the mike capsule and one for the PTT line).

I am still in the painful process of learning how to update the firmware.

Regards

Marco I0QRF



marco giannone
 

My apologies. I meant Brian.

Marco IZ0QRF


On Sunday, May 14, 2017 12:16 AM, Brian D. K2BRZ <kd2iog@...> wrote:


Yup, that worked. I also put in the function button and got it working. I'm loving this radio now! Still have yet to make a contact but am more comfortable with the radio and happy that my skills haven't completely disappeared. Will probably update to 1.10 but am pretty happy where I'm at.
My (capacitance) hat is off to you all! Wish your families a happy Mother's Day.
Brian, K2BRZ


Brian D. K2BRZ
 

I updated to Raduino v1.11 and it is working pretty good. The birdies aren't gone but minimized fairly well. A couple of things I noticed, though: 1.) The Tuning Range doesn't always stay where I set it. Being that I'm using a 10-turn pot, I really don't mind it, but the tuning can get a little flaky sometimes. 2.) The USB is very low. I know removing C91 & C92 will help with that, but how do I remove them? Just heat the solder and remove them? Do I need to bridge the connections or anything?


Still no contacts yet, but I haven't been trying to hard, mostly just listening and waiting to pounce...

Brian, K2BRZ

Jerry Gaffke
 

Just remove C91, C92, don't bridge anything.  I would do it using two fine tipped soldering pencils, one on each end of the cap.  

Do you have 0.1uF caps at both ends of your that tuning pot signal?  One at the pot between gnd and the wiper, another cap between those same two nodes, but at the Raduino end of the cable.  Maybe a third from gnd to 5v at the pot.

Guys on the AT_Sprint yahoo group were thinking the Si5351 might be responsible for some of their SodaPop birdies.  Would be nice if somebody with an Si570 or DDS style VFO could do an A/B test for us, tell us if the birdies go away when the Si5351 is not used.  Could be them birdies come form the Nano or the LCD display, need some way to avoid having that confuse things.  Perhaps one Nano running both an Si5351 and an Si570, a coax from the Bitx40 main board can be plugged into one or the other?  Be able to cut power to the Si5351/Si570 that is not used.


wondering if some 


On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 02:43 pm, Brian D. K2BRZ wrote:

I updated to Raduino v1.11 and it is working pretty good. The birdies aren't gone but minimized fairly well. A couple of things I noticed, though: 1.) The Tuning Range doesn't always stay where I set it. Being that I'm using a 10-turn pot, I really don't mind it, but the tuning can get a little flaky sometimes. 2.) The USB is very low. I know removing C91 & C92 will help with that, but how do I remove them? Just heat the solder and remove them? Do I need to bridge the connections or anything?

 

Allard PE1NWL
 

On Mon, May 15, 2017 23:43, Brian D. K2BRZ wrote:
1.) The Tuning Range doesn't always stay where I set it.

Brian, the tuning range value is actually stored in EEPROM and it doesn't
change. But each time you go back into the SETTINGS menu, the displayed
value is updated according to the current pot position.

That may indeed be confusing to some, so I'm already working on version
v1.13 with some improvements in the Function Button menus for better user
experience. To be released soon.

73 Allard PE1NWL

Brian D. K2BRZ
 

Thanks, Allard. That makes sense. I really like what you've done with 1.11, I can't believe you're working on 1.13 already! I think my eeprom may reach it's write limit just from me upgrading your versions!

Brian D. K2BRZ
 

Thanks, Jerry. I have the cap that came with the kit on the pins as I'm supposed to. When I get the chance, I will another at the Raduino end and at the +5 and gnd on the pot. I did buy extra components when. I read up on mods. I especially like the way Allard included pictures in the zip for 1.11, makes it a little easier to identify where I need to make those mods.

Still need to put an analyser to the antenna and make sure the radio PA is set properly. Tried for some contacts tonight but alas, no one heard me. Hopefully I can tune the antenna to get a better signal out.

Brian, K2BRZ

Soundararajan Ra.
 

I like to add function button .please let me know how to add.
Soundar
VU2RJW

On Tue, May 16, 2017 at 7:27 AM, Brian D. K2BRZ <kd2iog@...> wrote:

Thanks, Jerry. I have the cap that came with the kit on the pins as I'm supposed to. When I get the chance, I will another at the Raduino end and at the +5 and gnd on the pot. I did buy extra components when. I read up on mods. I especially like the way Allard included pictures in the zip for 1.11, makes it a little easier to identify where I need to make those mods.

Still need to put an analyser to the antenna and make sure the radio PA is set properly. Tried for some contacts tonight but alas, no one heard me. Hopefully I can tune the antenna to get a better signal out.

Brian, K2BRZ


Jerry Gaffke
 


To add the function button, look on this webpage   https://github.com/amunters/bitx40    where it says:

"v1.07    Added functionality via the Function Button: Use a pusbutton to momentarily ground pin A3 (orange wire).    Do NOT install an external pull-up restistor!"


The Raduino schematic on this webpage:    http://www.hfsigs.com/bitx40v3_circuit.html    shows that A3 from the Nano goes to pin 5 of the 8 pin connector.  So the function switch should be wired between that orange wire coming from pin 5 of the Raduino's 8 pin connector and ground.  (The tuning pot is wired to pins 1,3,4 of that same 8 pin connector.)  The solid copper plane on the back of the Raduino is ground, you could just solder a wire to one of the mounting holes at a corner of the Raduino, run that wire to the other side of the new function switch.

Jerry


On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:06 pm, Soundararajan Ra. wrote:

I like to add function button .please let me know how to add.

 

Soundararajan Ra.
 

Thanks

On May 16, 2017 11:13 AM, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


To add the function button, look on this webpage   https://github.com/amunters/bitx40    where it says:

"v1.07    Added functionality via the Function Button: Use a pusbutton to momentarily ground pin A3 (orange wire).    Do NOT install an external pull-up restistor!"


The Raduino schematic on this webpage:    http://www.hfsigs.com/bitx40v3_circuit.html    shows that A3 from the Nano goes to pin 5 of the 8 pin connector.  So the function switch should be wired between that orange wire coming from pin 5 of the Raduino's 8 pin connector and ground.  (The tuning pot is wired to pins 1,3,4 of that same 8 pin connector.)  The solid copper plane on the back of the Raduino is ground, you could just solder a wire to one of the mounting holes at a corner of the Raduino, run that wire to the other side of the new function switch.

Jerry


On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:06 pm, Soundararajan Ra. wrote:

I like to add function button .please let me know how to add.

 

Allard PE1NWL
 

On Tue, May 16, 2017 03:50, Brian D. K2BRZ wrote:
Thanks, Allard. That makes sense. I really like what you've done with
1.11, I can't believe you're working on 1.13 already! I think my eeprom
may reach it's write limit just from me upgrading your versions!
Sorry I meant 1.12, lost count myself :=)