UBITX Assemly Wiki Page #ubitx
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R. E. Klaus <reklaus@...>
Back in the 70's, some CB radio manufacturers used a diode in series with the power and it worked well. A couple brands used a bridge rectifier setup in the input power that way it didn't matter which way you connected to power.
Roxie -- K1AUS
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For reverse polarity protection I put a 5 amp rectifier in series from the positive of the power jack and then to both fuses. No relay or extra parts needed. Sure I have a .7 volt drop but I do not think the loss would be noticed to the ear on the receiving end. There is a lot more loss in just changing bands.
-- Lee - N9LO
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Very nice documentation.
Does raise a sort loosely related question. If the switch bridging the PA power to the general power is opened, how does the user control PA power. Does it matter if PA power is on all of the time? The PA power could be controlled by using a 2-pole switch, which has other advantages. Thanks, Paul - K2AYZ
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MAX <max@...>
That’s the best one yet.
Regards.
Max K 4 O D S.
I've Never Lost the Wonder.
Antique Electronics Site: http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of K9HZ
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 10:39 PM To: BITX20@groups.io Subject: Re: [BITX20] UBITX Assemly Wiki Page #ubitx
There is a really trivial solution to this reversing diode-fuse thing. My drawing is awful but you get the idea… You just need a 50 cent 10A 12V relay.
Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC Staunton, Illinois
Owner – Operator Villa Grand Piton – J68HZ Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I. Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com Like us on Facebook!
Moderator – North American QRO Group at Groups.IO.
email: bill@...
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
A search for 'reverse polarity" in this forum shows dozens of hits since the uBitx was released in early Dec.
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Thanks David, but I'm looking for pics of the Microphone or the Key jack. This is a vanilla install kids. I'll add a note about adding a fuse in the power line. Or yo know it is a wiki... hint hint. I run my power supply into a RIGrunner 4004U.
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THANKS!
Can you please upload a higher resolution version of the diagram? Also the yellow wire is very hard to see against the white backgrond. Perhaps a darker yellow or a light grey background?
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K9HZ <bill@...>
There is a really trivial solution to this reversing diode-fuse thing. My drawing is awful but you get the idea… You just need a 50 cent 10A 12V relay.
Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC Staunton, Illinois
Owner – Operator Villa Grand Piton – J68HZ Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I. Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com Like us on Facebook!
Moderator – North American QRO Group at Groups.IO.
email: bill@...
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io
A search for 'reverse polarity" in this forum shows dozens of hits since the uBitx was released in early Dec.
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Jerry Gaffke
A search for 'reverse polarity" in this forum shows dozens of hits since the uBitx was released in early Dec.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Here's a few of mine: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/35353 https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/39877 https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/44499 I've given up trying to right that particular absurdity. Unfortunately, we have hundreds of new hams with no fuse (or too big of one) assuming they are protected when they are not. And some of them are bound to be a bit too careless as a result. Jerry
On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 07:23 pm, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
One small point.
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ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...>
One small point.
If your using diode for reverse polarity protection it is better to place the fuses BEFORE the diode as then the fuse blows and the diode is less likely to be fried and also down stream circuits. Allison
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david todd <kg9rb@...>
Sent from Yahoo Mail. Get the app
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
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On Sun, 5/13/18, W7PEA <patrick@deepplaya.com> wrote:
Subject: Re: [BITX20] UBITX Assemly Wiki Page #ubitx To: BITX20@groups.io Date: Sunday, May 13, 2018, 8:35 PM I updated the Assembly page with pictures, no making fun of my soldering. ;-) I could use help with two things as I did not do a vanilla installation of these two. 1. The microphone 2. The Keyer If you did a no-modification build, please snap some pics and post them or send them to me and I'll do it. Thanks! W7PEA
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Hey Bo, According to all drawings and the HFSignals wireup page:
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Bo Barry <bobarr@...>
Can you verify that the orange PTT goes to the sleeve? It is shown to the tip on the Randino schematic I found
Bo W4GHV
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I updated the Assembly page with pictures, no making fun of my soldering. ;-)
I could use help with two things as I did not do a vanilla installation of these two. 1. The microphone 2. The Keyer If you did a no-modification build, please snap some pics and post them or send them to me and I'll do it. Thanks! W7PEA
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I checked against the schematic V3 and measured from the audio connector's pins to the proper points on the components. The volume control wiring in your diagram is wrong. The green wire IS ground and connected to the proper point on the volume control as shown. The yellow and orange wires are switched. the pins of the connector from left to right as viewed from the front of the board are (verified with an ohm meter)
1 = microphone input - Purple wire 2 = microphone ground - Blue wire 3 = volume control ground - Green wire 4 = volume control high - Orange wire 5 = volume control mid (center) - Yellow wire 6 = ground - Red wire 7 = speaker high - Brown wire 8 = ground - Black wire I have all of HF Signals version except Version 4. The above wiring is correct and unchanged on the 3 version 1 boards I have 116/1, 212/1, 324/1, 933/2 and now 133/5. I don't have either version 3 or version 4 boards but I hardly think the wiring to the audio plug would have changed for those 2 versions and then changed back in version 5. The "Wiring Up" diagram that's currently on the HF Signals website has recently been changed and appears to be correct with respect to both the CW Jack and the Audio Plug. Jim - W0EB
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w4rjp
Patrick: Attached is a PNG of the wire-up. Hopefully this will work with WiKi.
73, Bob W4RJP Mark: The diode placement was from HF Signals information. Not necessarily my particular favorite, either.
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Really nice schematic, Bob.
It may be of interest to some that the position of the diodes relative to the fuses as shown does not provide reverse current protection unless your power supplies or power cords are also fused. The diodes must be on the radio side of the fuses, not the power supply side. As shown, they WILL provide some measure of high SWR protection. Just how much high SWR protection is probably beyond topic to this thread. Thank you for taking the time to make the schematic and for sharing it with us. BTW, I just received my uBitX last week, and this is my first post. -- Mark, KE6BB
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Thanks Bob! The "N/C" meaning "Normally Closed" makes sense. Should have realized it myself!
-Jonathan
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w4rjp
Thanks to everyone for their accolades. Glad most find the wiring diagram of value.
Patrick: The original file is a CAD DWG. Writing it out as a PNG should be doable. Having it live on your Wiki with others contributing versions for the various sketches and mods would be outstanding. I'll post a PNG version for you. Jonathan: The dotted line in the jacks was a way to show a connection between the N/C (normally closed) pins. Once a 3.5mm plug is inserted the N/C connections open. Finally thanks to all who found errors in the original HF Signals schematic and wire-up. Bringing those to the attention of the group made the process of creating the diagram much easier. 73, Bob W4RJP
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a.vision
Normally closed ? Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
-------- Original message -------- From: Jonathan <jmcameron@...> Date: 24/04/2018 18:44 (GMT+00:00) To: BITX20@groups.io Subject: Re: [BITX20] UBITX Assemly Wiki Page #ubitx The reason I was asking about the "N/C" notation on the sockets is that I recall some discussion of how to wire the sockets to avoid problems when you plug in a (audio-style) jack that is mono (only tip and barrel, no extra area for left/right). My guess is that "N/C" means no connection. However, sometimes the line between them was dotted and some are solid (all marked with N/C). So I was confused... It would be good if someone could clear that up. Thanks -Jonathan
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Bob,
The reason I was asking about the "N/C" notation on the sockets is that I recall some discussion of how to wire the sockets to avoid problems when you plug in a (audio-style) jack that is mono (only tip and barrel, no extra area for left/right). My guess is that "N/C" means no connection. However, sometimes the line between them was dotted and some are solid (all marked with N/C). So I was confused... It would be good if someone could clear that up. Thanks -Jonathan
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