That is a winner, for sure. I may print this out as well - a 3D printable tilt-bail. Not nearly as nice as the ones from QRPGuys. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3954466 Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dallas, Te

You, sir, are a steely-eyed, missile-man. VERY nice design & fitting work - and I just recently upgraded to an Ender 3 - that might be a 'do' I need to do. Best, Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dallas, Texas, USA O

Oh, that's my preferred method, the P-FET. Not only do you use an insulator, ya have to TEST it with a DVM. Sometimes if you (meaning ME, since i crank it) tighten down the attachment screw & nut enou

I'd gotten the parts, but hadn't done this (YET!) but: I highly recommend it - I felt some tingly RF on a screw head on my mic and a couple of other points. I used a two-battery power mechanism: 1 bat

Yes, the HC-06 lil' module, would be wired in where the current SERIAL output of the Arduino goes. (I've not yet done CAT, but I'm presuming this is your 'CAT' Serial). You'll have to research the HC-

If it's just CAT control, then some sort of Bluetooth Serial module would work. These are cheap-cheap on the AliExpress / DX.com / eBay 'axis of vendors'. I believe you can query for 'HC-06 Bluetooth

That's what I get: https://www.mikeyancey.com/hamcalc/toroidcalculator.php Inductance The Desired Inductance (L): 4.3 µH Calculated Inductance: 4.23 µH (98.4% of desired L) Turns Required: 30 Length o

Sorry; can't edit... I'd say just a FEW groups - the major topics, maybe? No more than 3 or so?

I vote YES. It's difficult to suss thru different threads - so much so, I've stopped reading it (to a large degree). I have a 'first gen' (Ver 3 PCB?) - and an older BitX20. It's just hard to wade thr

Ah - the ol' internal diode - it goes in the direction of *correct* power. When reversed, it is also reversed. See: https://hackaday.com/2011/12/06/reverse-voltage-protection-with-a-p-fet/ Or Afroman'

I usually prefer the P-FET solution - prices have come down for these, around a buck per P-FET. And not only the price, but more & more P-FETs with very low V-forward drop. No fuse to replace (if you'

Well, I like to go both ways - vintage AND modern (heh). Vintage - you can't go wrong with a Simpson 260. Older models sell for pretty cheap - shopgoodwill.com, (fl)ebay, sometimes an antique stores.

Hah - someone else who liked the red one, too, yesterday. Mike Y, KM5Z Dallas, Texas, USA

#ubitx

https://amateurradiokits.in/store/metal-enclosures/ ...but I believe the demand has been such that they're on hold until April 15. Some, or all, might be 'out of stock' for now. Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dall

#ubitx

I have, on my website (although currently it's a hidden link) - an LCD Custom Character designer. Let me know if it's helpful: https://mikeyancey.com/hamcalc/lcd_characters.php It's not an 'original'

https://www.taydaelectronics.com US$ 0.19 (nineteen cents) for the 8-pin PDIP / US$ 0.73 for the SMT version. Mike Yancey, KM5Z Dallas, Texas

I keep a (nearly) full set of those - buy them on Tayda and you'll laugh at your shopping cart on checkout: 475 pieces... Total cost, probably $11. They're really useful, though - I use them on proto-

I believe option #2 will work with 4 powerpoles as well - at least that's how I used 'em. Cheaper, too. To increase stiffness, you'll have to pin each of the sets together - I use the little black pin

I like the box - seems a bit large - for us 'Muricans (and, of course, Liberia and Myanmar), 80x220x195mm Translates to 3.15" high, 8.7" (wide, I think), and 7.7" deep. It seems wider than deeper, so

#ubitx

AND: with the handle,... it's PORTABLE! These are great recycles - I *hate* tearing up a perfectly good radio, but sometimes, you DO run across these old carcasses, already picked of good parts, (or o