Date   
Re: uBix - transmit clicking when Mic inserted

_Dave_ K0MBT
 

What is happening on my radio is that the tip shorts between the ground and the ptt as it slides in. Keying ptt. It shouldn't be putting out much power as the mic is not active until the last terminal is reached and engaged.

I try to not insert mic on running radio.

Re: Ubitx v4 whining and swr check issue(?)

John (vk2eta)
 

The uBitx does transmit out of ham bands but the change of filters is set in relation to ham band edges.

Example for 40m, the 7-10Mhz  filter is switched ON when the frequency is set above 7,000,000Hz.
At or below that value the 3.5-5Mhz filter is ON. Therefore the available power at the antenna connection below 7,000,000Hz will be significantly reduced.

Although it is possible that an issue exist in the 7-10Mhz filter I suspect more likely an issue with the antenna.

Do you have or can you make a dummy load (example 20 x 1k ohms 1/4 watt resistors in parallel would give 50 ohms at 5 watts dissipation, usable with short burst of CW power to test the swr and confirm a very low swr on the 40m band)?

Regarding the whining, based on your "touch" test on the 25mhz crystal I strongly suspect a Nano oscillator issue. Changing the Nano fixed that issue in my rig.

73, John

Re: uBix - transmit clicking when Mic inserted

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi,

I don't plug-in or unlug anything wit the radio powered. Notthe uBitx. Not the PFR-3, not the Johnson Ranger, not the SW-3 (1933 vintage). Most of the time it's okay but can cause real fireworks. It's a habit that is good to promote.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 1/14/19 7:49 AM, d balfour wrote:
What is happening on my radio is that the tip shorts between the ground and the ptt as it slides in. Keying ptt. It shouldn't be putting out much power as the mic is not active until the last terminal is reached and engaged.
I try to not insert mic on running radio.
--
bark less - wag more

Error in Ubitx Mic Amp circuit?

Uwe , DF1UB
 

Hi,

is there an error in the circuit of the mic amp or just the wrong Cap build in?

the cap C63 at the collector of Q6 should be 1µ polarized, but on the board is a ceramic C.Is this the fault of low mic signal?

Blown finals?

Peter Russell <peter.russell@...>
 

It's now about a month since I got my ubitx and I haven't tried to transmit as my power supply wasn't up to it.
So I built a new (5A) one.
Powered with the new PSU, I wound the bias controls fully clockwise and with my meter checking the current, pressed the key. Turning RV2 produced the expected current increase, but turning RV3, no increase at all!
Must have somehow blown one of the finals!
So I ordered 3 new IRF510's.
I changed the one I thought was at fault and tried again.
Same problem.
Must have changed the wrong one!
Changed the other one.
Same problem.
After a good deal of bad language I got round to checking voltages and resistances around the final circuits, where I realised that one of the bias circuits was behaving very strangely.
To cut a long story short, I removed RV3 from the board only to find that it had broken one of its legs and was hanging only on two ( the ground one had snapped off!).
So I've ordered some presets.
Maybe it's all those tales of woe about IRF510's that I've read on this forum that made me think that one had blown, or maybe I should have done what I was taught and followed correct fault finding procedure before jumping in with both feet.
The presets should be here tomorrow so I'll do a proper repair job and hopefully learn a useful lesson.
DON'T TAKE TOO MUCH NOTICE OF FORUMS!

Peter G8FWY

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Re: Blown finals?

SAM R BURNES
 

Good job on the “learning experience” description.

Thank you for sharing.

73,
Sam
WY8V

On Jan 14, 2019, at 3:46 PM, Peter Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:

It's now about a month since I got my ubitx and I haven't tried to transmit as my power supply wasn't up to it.
So I built a new (5A) one.
Powered with the new PSU, I wound the bias controls fully clockwise and with my meter checking the current, pressed the key. Turning RV2 produced the expected current increase, but turning RV3, no increase at all!
Must have somehow blown one of the finals!
So I ordered 3 new IRF510's.
I changed the one I thought was at fault and tried again.
Same problem.
Must have changed the wrong one!
Changed the other one.
Same problem.
After a good deal of bad language I got round to checking voltages and resistances around the final circuits, where I realised that one of the bias circuits was behaving very strangely.
To cut a long story short, I removed RV3 from the board only to find that it had broken one of its legs and was hanging only on two ( the ground one had snapped off!).
So I've ordered some presets.
Maybe it's all those tales of woe about IRF510's that I've read on this forum that made me think that one had blown, or maybe I should have done what I was taught and followed correct fault finding procedure before jumping in with both feet.
The presets should be here tomorrow so I'll do a proper repair job and hopefully learn a useful lesson.
DON'T TAKE TOO MUCH NOTICE OF FORUMS!

Peter G8FWY

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This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com



Converting a Bitx40 to a "BitX10"

gfhumiston@...
 

This is just a brain-fart idea of mine.

I have a BitX40 (still in the box),

I hoping that I could replace the PA LPF filter parts with the values from from the schematic for the 10M portion of the (all-band) uBitx,  reprogram the raduino (using code snippets from the UbitX for 10M) and have a working 10M transmitter.
I haven't thought about the receive part of this.

Comments, suggestions, guidance, & raucous laughter solicited.

Frank N6RFO

Re: Converting a Bitx40 to a "BitX10"

ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...>
 

You need to change the band pass filter.

Thats L1,2,3 and associated capacitors

Allison

Re: Tracing receive signal for low signal

Dave Space
 

Hmm.. I don't think I have RIT or something else set, will have to check.  My BFO seemed pretty good when I last checked it also.
Considering the receive/transmit should otherwise be based on the same frequency for VFO and it's spot on for receive, I would have thought it's all fine.  I will check in RIT though.

Simple vfo sketch

Don Richards
 

I have built this version of the raduino, 


It works quite well with my HW 101 in receive. It needs a little more amplitude to drive the transmitter properly, that mod is in progress. 

My question to the group is, has anyone written a sketch for the raduino that is a simple RF generator that could be used as a signal generator or for a simple vfo for an old crystal transmitter, ie, one that simply generates the actual frequency that it displays on the LCD and still uses the tuning pot rather than an encoder?

I don't know nearly enough to create this, hoping that some of the talent that frequents this group has done this and can share. 

Thanks and 73
Don ve3ids

Re: Blown finals?

Bob Lunsford <nocrud222@...>
 

I get the impression that the uBitx is designed to operated
on 8V and the finals on 13.8V. Therefore, I plan to do this:

I will run the radio, etc., at 8V and the final amp at 13.8V.
This means I will put eight 1A diodes in series with the
13.8V and drop the voltage down to near 9V. This should
eliminate the problem with the audio amp blowing because
of too much heat due to a higher voltage than needed.

This would run the main board, etc. The amp would run
at 13.6V which should not be a problem.

Or, would it be better to run the radio at 12V and the amp
at 13.8V? Then I'd only need three diodes.

Bob — KK5R


--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1/14/19, Peter Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:

Subject: [BITX20] Blown finals?
To: BITX20@groups.io
Date: Monday, January 14, 2019, 4:46 PM

It's now about a month since I got my ubitx
and I haven't tried to
transmit as my power supply wasn't up
to it.
So I built a new (5A) one.
Powered with the new PSU, I wound the
bias controls fully clockwise and
with my meter checking the current,
pressed the key. Turning RV2
produced the expected current increase,
but turning RV3, no increase at all!
Must have somehow blown one of the
finals!
So I ordered 3 new IRF510's.
I changed the one I thought was at
fault and tried again.
Same problem.
Must have changed the wrong one!
Changed the other one.
Same problem.
After a good deal of bad language I got
round to checking voltages and
resistances around the final circuits,
where I realised that one of the
bias circuits was behaving very
strangely.
To cut a long story short, I removed
RV3 from the board only to find
that it had broken one of its legs and
was hanging only on two ( the
ground one had snapped off!).
So I've ordered some presets.
Maybe it's all those tales of woe about
IRF510's that I've read on this
forum that made me think that one had
blown, or maybe I should have done
what I was taught and followed correct
fault finding procedure before
jumping in with both feet.
The presets should be here tomorrow so
I'll do a proper repair job and
hopefully learn a useful lesson.
DON'T TAKE TOO MUCH NOTICE OF FORUMS!

Peter G8FWY

---
This email has been checked for viruses
by AVG.
https://www.avg.com

Re: Simple vfo sketch

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

Well don!  That’s the board I developed!!
I’m amazed that somebody (other than me )actually did it!

It would be pretty easy to develop the sketch that you request in your note, however remember it’s a square wave output, so it will have a zillion harmonics.  

Gordon Kx4z 



On Jan 14, 2019, at 19:10, Don Richards <ve3ids.don@...> wrote:

I have built this version of the raduino, 


It works quite well with my HW 101 in receive. It needs a little more amplitude to drive the transmitter properly, that mod is in progress. 

My question to the group is, has anyone written a sketch for the raduino that is a simple RF generator that could be used as a signal generator or for a simple vfo for an old crystal transmitter, ie, one that simply generates the actual frequency that it displays on the LCD and still uses the tuning pot rather than an encoder?

I don't know nearly enough to create this, hoping that some of the talent that frequents this group has done this and can share. 

Thanks and 73
Don ve3ids

uBITX and case for sale

Michael Witham
 

As much as I regret, I am offering my uBitx, v. 3 and custom gray case for sale. I have accepted a promotion and have not even had time to unbox either! This will change in about 5-6 years when I retire!
Shipping will be USPS priority. Contact mdwitham@.... Paypal accepted: mdwitham
Price: $150.
I will continue to follow the forum and learn!
Kd4kld

Re: Converting a Bitx40 to a "BitX10"

Wayne Leake
 

 Not just the band pass filters, but redo the VFO for something like 16.5Mhz, or 40.5 Mhz.
 16.5 range would be easier, and change the BFO to get the desired sideband That can also be done by programming the Raduino for the required BFO frequency, removing or disabling the BF) XTAL.
 I have the thought of building a 10 and 12 meter BITX.
 Padding the bandpass filter can get that from 10 to 12 meter. Switch the padding in or out for the desired band. Plus, of course, programming the Raduino, or another Arduino DDR, programmed for the band change.
 I believe it may have already been done by a number of people.
 Easiest would be to get a bareboard for a BITX40 or 20.
 I dislike the idea of working with the tiny SMD's, not so easy for me now.

 Wayne WA2YNE

Re: Blown finals?

Ripley
 

I run mine at 12 volts. The finals and everything else. No issues whatsoever.

 

Ripley

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Bob Lunsford via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 7:12 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Blown finals?

 

I get the impression that the uBitx is designed to operated

on 8V and the finals on 13.8V. Therefore, I plan to do this:

 

I will run the radio, etc., at 8V and the final amp at 13.8V.

This means I will put eight 1A diodes in series with the

13.8V and drop the voltage down to near 9V. This should

eliminate the problem with the audio amp blowing because

of too much heat due to a higher voltage than needed.

 

This would run the main board, etc. The amp would run

at 13.6V which should not be a problem.

 

Or, would it be better to run the radio at 12V and the amp

at 13.8V? Then I'd only need three diodes.

 

Bob — KK5R

 

 

--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1/14/19, Peter Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:

 

Subject: [BITX20] Blown finals?

To: BITX20@groups.io

Date: Monday, January 14, 2019, 4:46 PM

 It's now about a month since I got my ubitx

and I haven't tried to

 transmit as my power supply wasn't up

to it.

So I built a new (5A) one.

Powered with the new PSU, I wound the

bias controls fully clockwise and

 with my meter checking the current,

pressed the key. Turning RV2

 produced the expected current increase,

but turning RV3, no increase at all!

Must have somehow blown one of the

finals!

So I ordered 3 new IRF510's.

I changed the one I thought was at

fault and tried again.

Same problem.

Must have changed the wrong one!

Changed the other one.

Same problem.

After a good deal of bad language I got

round to checking voltages and

 resistances around the final circuits,

where I realised that one of the

 bias circuits was behaving very

strangely.

To cut a long story short, I removed

RV3 from the board only to find

 that it had broken one of its legs and

was hanging only on two ( the

 ground one had snapped off!).

So I've ordered some presets.

Maybe it's all those tales of woe about

IRF510's that I've read on this

 forum that made me think that one had

blown, or maybe I should have done

 what I was taught and followed correct

fault finding procedure before

 jumping in with both feet.

The presets should be here tomorrow so

I'll do a proper repair job and

 hopefully learn a useful lesson.

DON'T TAKE TOO MUCH NOTICE OF FORUMS!

 Peter G8FWY

 ---

This email has been checked for viruses

by AVG.

https://www.avg.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Re: Blown finals?

Bob Lunsford <nocrud222@...>
 

A converted computer power supply to become a general
power supply usually turns them into a 12.X V. power supply.
This would be a good way to go. However...

If I want to run the radio in the car as a mobile on 40M, the
car's supply is about 13.6V so I would still need to drop the
supply to 12V. However, I think I remember that the RF Amp
can be run at a higher voltage so the original plan may still
be appropriate: Run the radio on 12V and the Amp on 13.8V.

Just making plans here as I go. Running the radio on 1A
diodes is not a problem but a beefier diode may be in order
for the MRF diodes since they run more current. 12V for
the radio and 13.6V for the RF Amp.

I also wonder if the spurs, etc., would be less of a problem if
the radio is run at 12V instead of 13.8V...?

Bob — KK5R

--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 1/14/19, Ripley <bob.ripley@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [BITX20] Blown finals?
To: "BITX20@groups.io" <BITX20@groups.io>
Date: Monday, January 14, 2019, 8:28 PM

#yiv2735320529
#yiv2735320529 --

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#yiv2735320529 I run mine at 12 volts. The
finals and everything else. No issues whatsoever.  Ripley  Sent from Mail
for Windows 10
 From: Bob
Lunsford via Groups.Io
Sent:
Monday, January 14, 2019 7:12 PM
To:
BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Blown
finals?  I get the impression that the
uBitx is designed to operatedon 8V and the finals on
13.8V. Therefore, I plan to do this:  I will run the radio, etc.,
at 8V and the final amp at 13.8V.This means I will put eight
1A diodes in series with the13.8V and drop the voltage
down to near 9V. This shouldeliminate the problem with
the audio amp blowing becauseof too much heat due to a
higher voltage than needed.  This would run the main
board, etc. The amp would runat 13.6V which should not be
a problem.  Or, would it be better to run
the radio at 12V and the ampat 13.8V? Then I'd only
need three diodes.
 Bob — KK5R    --------------------------------------------On Mon, 1/14/19, Peter
Russell <peter.russell@...> wrote:   Subject: [BITX20] Blown
finals? To:
BITX20@groups.io Date:
Monday, January 14, 2019, 4:46 PM  It's now about a month
since I got my ubitx
and I haven't tried to  transmit as my power supply
wasn't up to
it. So I built a new
(5A) one. Powered with
the new PSU, I wound the bias controls fully
clockwise and  with
my meter checking the current, pressed the key. Turning RV2
 produced the
expected current increase, but turning RV3, no increase
at all! Must have
somehow blown one of the finals! So I ordered 3 new
IRF510's. I
changed the one I thought was at fault and tried again. Same problem. Must have changed the wrong
one! Changed the other
one. Same
problem. After a good
deal of bad language I got round to checking voltages
and  resistances
around the final circuits, where I realised that one of
the  bias circuits
was behaving very
strangely. To cut a
long story short, I removed RV3 from the board only to
find  that it had
broken one of its legs and was hanging only on two (
the  ground one had
snapped off!). So
I've ordered some presets. Maybe it's all those
tales of woe about
IRF510's that I've read on this  forum that made me think
that one had blown, or
maybe I should have done  what I was taught and
followed correct fault
finding procedure before  jumping in with both
feet. The presets
should be here tomorrow so I'll do a proper repair
job and  hopefully
learn a useful lesson.
DON'T TAKE TOO MUCH NOTICE OF FORUMS!  Peter G8FWY  --- This email has been checked
for viruses by
AVG.
https://www.avg.com

low output only on 40m

Curt
 

a run through all the bands with a dummy load - my uBITX is now outputting about 2 watts on 40m - when it is strong on all the other bands.  sounds like the LPF is out of tune - anyone seen this before?  (no I haven't finished my PHSNA yet -- but maybe I can manually check it with my DDS somehow)

73 Curt

Re: Simple vfo sketch

Don Richards
 

Thanks Gordon! Yes it works great. It is very clean sounding on receive, I just need to build a small amp to bring the drive level up for my hw-101 for transmit . It will load up to about half power and will vary in power like it is just on the edge for enough vfo signal to combine in the mixer. I realize that it is square wave, I am wanting to make another one to drive a DX 60 which depends on harmonics for bands above 40 metres . I have 4 spare boards from the 5 lot I had made from the Gerber's that you so kindly shared with me. I want to build a couple more for a fellow Ham up here for his gonset and his Benton harbor lunch box .
I hope someone has a sketch that will do this. I have learned a lot studying this sketch but I'm not there yet to create it myself .
Thanks again Gordon
73 Don ve3ids

Re: Converting a Bitx40 to a "BitX10"

Ryan Flowers
 

It's been my experience that the PA isn't up to snuff on anything past 30 meters. I had mine on 20 and it suffered from about 1w output. The problem isn't the IRF510, it's a fine chip. But the layout really isn't that good unfortunately. The leads are very long and in stock form, the heat sink is not insulated from the tab, and that's the Drain, not ground. I switched to a RD15HVF1 and that solved the problem (the tab is Ground) and I got 5w on 20m, but it also fell off on 15m. I don't think it would do much at 10m, but I never tried it. My suggestion would be to use the BITX40 on bands below 30m. It works *great* on 80m, for example, and I'm sure would do fine on 60m for digital modes. But for 20m and up, I can't really recommend it. On mine, I'm eventually going to replace the PA altogether, but that's another project all its own. 

The rest of the radio is fine. If you're going to run higher VFO frequencies, remove C91 and C92 or they'll get filtered. Have fun with your radio :) 

--
Ryan Flowers - W7RLF
MiscDotGeek.com
Multi Band BITX40
The BITX40 FAQ

Re: Simple vfo sketch

James Lynes
 

Don:

I have a version of Allard's v1.26 configured as a VFO for my ZZRX40 DC receiver. Which by the way I've now logged all 50 states with. It currently tunes 7.000 to 7.300, but it's easy to change.

I stripped out all the code I don't need.

Send me your email if interested. You'll need the IDE to compile/load it.

James
KE4MIQ