Date   
Re: Ubitx V3 Please Help, ANTENNA Pins on PCB have SHORTED no Receive #ubitx #ubitx-help

DJ2AG
 

Hi Fabian,

have you been able to perform the above mentioned test QSO?

I‘m still not sure which sound you meant with „.... all others that i heared was only "piep pieeep" like a space computer sound„.

Was it Morse Code or something else? maybe you can record an audio sample to make it clear.

Armin, DJ2AG

K7HKL LPF Experiments

Arv Evans
 

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Bill

Your analysis is true so long as the tones, or the voice if that is your mode, do not overmodulate either the audio or the RF chain. In the case of the uBitx running 10 watts of SSB, whether it is voice or tones, one or both of those stages are significantly over-modulated to the extent they put splatter into the adjacent channels on either side. This splatter will not affect anyone listening to the SSB channel but will dramatically affect those 3 KHz up and down from that channel. The effect is far worse than on a full-featured SSB transceiver in that there is no ALC or compression to control the level.

My unit, a sample of one, over-modulates at any power level greater than 1.5 watts. Most do not care as you can hear most days on 7200 KHz..... but for those who do, you are on notice.

WA8TOD

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

W5CTD
 

I am sorry to be so ignorant but what exactly are you talking about with the IRF510 Tabs?   Can you show a picture of how to properly ground (or not ground) the device and the PC Board in general?


All the best to you

Charles T Dennis 



From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of iz oos <and2oosiz2@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 7:01 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?
 

Thanks for the book. Chapter 2 is very important. If you want to use the chassis you need to be sure you insulate the tabs from the chassis.


Il 04/set/2018 13:26, "sdr freak" <sdrfreak55@...> ha scritto:
Hi!

First i want thank you for your fast answer :-) Ok i have a new question about this.. In the Wire Up Shematic v1.9 i read this:

1. "the Ubitx board should be grounded in a metal case or a common ground if using plastic case.."

2. "IRF510 tabs have DC voltage and SHOULD NOT be grounded to metal case"

3. "Rotary encoder, audio & keyer jack wires....If using metal case jack ground wires can be omitted.The SLEEVE is grounded to the case"   <-- how becomes the case ground and what's about the other jack, the mic/ptt jack and the volume switch? Means that if the GND wires from raduino/mainboard to the jack sleeves are not anymore conected when i have grounding my ubitx main board have contact if screwed together on the 4 holes with the aluminium bottom plate where it is mounted on?

And if it was my plan to make a other additional PTT-Button and Encoder-switch button, i've seen in the v1.9 shematic, how would I wire that if I put this on 'the thing with the previously mentioned sentence' in the context that "all jack are grounded over the housing"?

When the ground wires can be omitted then their must be ground on metal case.. <<---This i would realize whit a soldered cable direct from the 'black DC-input cable' which was mounted with a cableshoe
(..it say in germany "kabelschuhe") on the case with a nice brass screw. Is this right what i have say?

..and this would be my case-main-ground-port-connection-point, for other things like a back plate brass screw for ground the whole ubitx to my home, and for sure this is a must be when i was have outdoor ham sessions, so that I can ground the whole ubitx directly over the earth floor with for example a metal bar and i like to transmit with kite antenna, long wire antenna high in trees and when this doing, i read, there should be a main ground to the earth ground.

next was point 5. in den v1.9 wire up shematic, It is important to finally have clarity..ok look please here:

5. DC-power cable should be twisted.(yes i ve do this at begin of assemble ubitx with all cable) (but now this-->) The negative (Black) wire should be lager size!

On other website i have read and see this on few ubitx build's but i missing a wire up shematic which have directly draw all these or describe a little bit more information about this whole "Grounded Case Wire Up Shematic" (when i have enough knowledge about this, then my idea is to make this wire up plan..), ...so i have no idea which cable diameter should be used for this "thicker, lager sized negative black dc-power cable.." Can someone help me with the necessary data of a diameter for this cable?

Which construction idea is the best for beginner? Only use a metal case and wire up the same like describe in the v1.7/1.9 wire up shematic here: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/photo/49276/0 and ignore the informations in the plan, like i see most metal cased ubitx pics where i never see the construction instructions with the thick black DC cable, the omission of the grounding cable at the Jack-Sleeves and encoder, grounding mount screw, just everything that I ask here wasn't see at the most picture of metal cased ubitx.. but why is wrote in the wire up instructions (v1.7-1.9) about all these important hints if then almost no one does this and still the normal wiring plan is made despite the metal box, because what I mean at all are yes then this ground loops of what is being warned ... I do not understand now..

ok last point here, warning for ' be careful of groundloops'...On another page I read that it has to do with the thick black DC cable and thus diminished, but not as it is now in the exact context with the rest of the history of the cable and the word ground loops does not tell me how to classify it in Regarding my questions about the individual points .. that would just be the point why it is so important to me to get help because I could not find it to understand. Thank you

Ok these are my question.

Ah yeah.. It is really an interesting and very demanding hobby we have.. or is it just me who is think this :D yae yae yae...hard long way to get this ubitx for rx/tx function..


I hope anyone can help me :)

Best Regards Fabian



Re: Which xmit transistor is blown?

Sean W7SKD
 

I have just about permanently taken the top off the case the radio is mounted in, and have a cooling fan connected ... hoping that will be enough going forward.  

how hot are the transistors getting?  well, when I was doing some testing today, I found that simply being in transmit with no mic connected for a few seconds (< 10 seconds) the predriver and driver transistors get noticeably warm.  I have measured all six of them (in both stages) and dont think they are blown (all six measured .6 DCV from B to E).  Typically transmitting FT8 they get hot enough not to blister but to be seriously uncomfortable.

I will be making some mods soon to apply proper bias to these 2n2222a's later this week...but with the biasing from the factory, thats what things look like right now.

Re: Which xmit transistor is blown?

Sean W7SKD
 

Hi Raj

I'm pretty sure its not the power connector...I saw swinging power (past tense) and am now registering no more than about .5W max output, so something has cooked.  In the past, that typically was one or both of the IRF510s, and I'm beginning to suspect that is what has happened again, since the driver and predriver transistors dont appear to be bad.  I'll probably swap them while I'm re-biasing the driver/predriver stages and see if that resolves things.

Re: Stone Soup

jim
 


On Tuesday, September 4, 2018, 8:11:14 AM PDT, ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:


On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 08:10 PM, Mark M wrote:
On 9/3/18 6:42 PM, Kees T wrote:
...
If "in the old days", enough people had access to Rigol DSA815-TG (Spectrum Analyzer and Tracking Generator) test equipment, NONE of us would have successfully built anything to get on the air and we'd all be "appliance operators".

nasty to quote a quote....  But hell why not.  I need to vent a little.n

Seriously?  before I had an SA at all, I did measurements.


Damn Sam ...What a kerfuffle ...Before the super automatic SA, I built a "wave meter" (google is your friend)   Armstrong SA ..took lotsa time and lot more effort with pencil and graph paper, but it worked!  2-3 hours to do what takes 15 minutes now ...takes longer to set up a test then to run it

Jim

Re: VK4PP uBitx LPF BANK add-on Board

Lawrence Galea
 


On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 12:02 AM RICHARD <k6kwq@...> wrote:

Not surprised at all, the number of hams that ignore the problem and operate any way

Bring back the wofhong

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 


From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of dfine100@... <dfine100@...>
Sent: Sunday, September 2, 2018 12:38:34 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] VK4PP uBitx LPF BANK add-on Board
 
I would think that Farhan should put a disclaimer on the hfsigs website stating that the ubitx does not meet some countries (i.e. USA) specifications for legal operation and that it will take a considerable amount of modification to make it meet those specs.  I agree that most new hams buy it thinking all they have to do is connect a few cables and the have a legal ready to go transceiver, when in fact they could buy a used 100 watt transceiver for not much more money that would meet specs.  That's my $.02 opinion.
W0DF

Re: K5BCQ uBITX Relay Switched LPF/BPF board

Kees T
 

The 4x LPF/BPF boards have arrived and I need to get one in Warren's hands for testing (in addition to the other 6x LPF/BPF boards).

A little more layout tweaking will make the interface leads even shorter now that I know these guys will put a notch in the board for no additional charge.

Picture shows where it's installed on the uBITX board after removing the uBITX LPF parts and putting them on the individual plug-in LPFs.

73 Kees K5BCQ

Re: K5BCQ uBITX Relay Switched LPF/BPF board

Kees T
 

73 Kees K5BCQ

Re: Highest quality uBitx Case ever!

Adam Goler
 

Yeah, that’s my LPF....

Actually its the wire for my 40m dipole.

On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 09:13 Lawrence Macionski via Groups.Io <am_fm_radio=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
About those loading coils in the background....

--
Adam Goler, PhD
Cell: (425) 985-8700


"Fear is the mind killer."

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Arv Evans
 

Joe, KN4OND

I have been thinking along the same lines for a couple of months.  We have lots of information
that could be organized to support focused work on each of the problem(s), but no document
that outlines each individual problem with support information on said problem.  Tabular problem
layout might work but each particular problem has a source, contributing circumstances, and
measuring method.  This would seem to require a separate paragraph on each problem, with
each paragraph establishing a common measurement technique so that all of us would be
able to make measurements that others can rely on and follow.  This is complicated by the fact
that some have much more capable test equipment that do others. 

It is a big task, that does need to be done. 

Then there is the possibility that a new product version might be released and make all our
work a wasted effort.  That may not be valid though in light of the large numbers of uBITX that
have been distributed already.  These older versions will still need fixing.

Arv K7HKL
_._


On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 2:57 AM Joe Milosch <zzmiloschxx@...> wrote:
Hi,
My regards to the chef, on the Stone soup. :-)
I have no fancy test equipment, but I have
a working uBitx v4 board.

I've read thru all the links and emails on the current problems
with the Ubitx's spurious emissions, but can't seem to get
a clear picture of what bands and modes are legal for
transmitting in the US.  The sheer number of posts
and technical data is a bit overwhelming.

Could one of you experts, make a simple text table showing
which bands and modes are acceptable on a stock board?
Something like:
This is a fake table for example.
########################
80m    no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m    digital fine
40m    no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m    digital fine
20m    cw , ssb, digital
17m     etc
15m     etc
12m     etc
10m     etc
##########################

Thank you,
Joe, KN4OND




Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Jerry Gaffke
 

We should have some way to indicate when too much mike gain is applied.
A diode, cap and resistor watching either audio or IF or RF peak signal levels, sending that to
a Nano analog pin should be sufficient.  Firmware shows a warning in the LCD if level exceeded.
I'd go with that, and a pot for mike gain.

If you insist on ALC:  https://groups.io/g/BITX20/message/56796 

Jerry


On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Warren Allgyer wrote:

Your analysis is true so long as the tones, or the voice if that is your mode, do not overmodulate either the audio or the RF chain. In the case of the uBitx running 10 watts of SSB, whether it is voice or tones, one or both of those stages are significantly over-modulated to the extent they put splatter into the adjacent channels on either side. This splatter will not affect anyone listening to the SSB channel but will dramatically affect those 3 KHz up and down from that channel. The effect is far worse than on a full-featured SSB transceiver in that there is no ALC or compression to control the level.

My unit, a sample of one, over-modulates at any power level greater than 1.5 watts. Most do not care as you can hear most days on 7200 KHz..... but for those who do, you are on notice.

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Warren,

There are all kinds of abuses that are possible. But the question was about the digital modes actually being SSB signals. I only addressed that. It turns out that music does not go well through an SSB filter since it wants 10 kilocycles of spectrum (or more). I play live music with other musicians (that might be abusive too) and we generate much more than 10kc of audio spectrum.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 09/04/2018 01:45 PM, Warren Allgyer wrote:
Bill

Your analysis is true so long as the tones, or the voice if that is your
mode, do not overmodulate either the audio or the RF chain. In the case
of the uBitx running 10 watts of SSB, whether it is voice or tones, one
or both of those stages are significantly over-modulated to the extent
they put splatter into the adjacent channels on either side. This
splatter will not affect anyone listening to the SSB channel but will
dramatically affect those 3 KHz up and down from that channel. The
effect is far worse than on a full-featured SSB transceiver in that
there is no ALC or compression to control the level.

My unit, a sample of one, over-modulates at any power level greater than
1.5 watts. Most do not care as you can hear most days on 7200 KHz.....
but for those who do, you are on notice.

WA8TOD

--
bark less - wag more

Re: Any Gerber Experts Round Here? #kicad #ubitx

lynatmts@...
 

Found the issue with the 'D' files...converted them...ran the X files thru FreeDFM with good results.
I think we can color this one done.

73,
Lyn
WA4GEH
--
"You see, wire telegraph is a kind of a very, very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Do you understand this? And radio operates exactly the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is that there is no cat."

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Arv,

It is more likely the work that is being discussed and done here will be incorporated into a new version and not squelched the new version.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 09/04/2018 03:08 PM, Arv Evans wrote:
---snip----

Then there is the possibility that a new product version might be
released and make all our
work a wasted effort. That may not be valid though in light of the
large numbers of uBITX that
have been distributed already. These older versions will still need fixing.

Arv K7HKL
--
bark less - wag more

Re: Homebrew from scratch #ubitx

lynatmts@...
 

Just converted your board files to RS274-X.  There were a couple of little frigglies that the conversion program didn't know how to handle.
Be happy to send you a copy if you like. 

Also saw your note about the audio IC?
Found they are plentiful in both thru hole and smt on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-TDA2822M-TDA2822-SOP-8-SOP8-SMD-Two-channel-audio-power-amplifier/112331938436?hash=item1a27815a84:g:2tAAAOSwfVpYwnAy
1.39 for 10...free shipping.  Just have to waaaaiiiiiittttt foreverrrrrr.

Thanks for publishing your project! 

73

Lyn WA4GEH
/B 28.251
/AM 146.520 simplex FL10 AGL

--
"You see, wire telegraph is a kind of a very, very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Do you understand this? And radio operates exactly the same way: you send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is that there is no cat."

Re: BITX20 -

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Fabian,

Recently you asked for help with calibration of your uBitX. Did You get the help you need? I did not reply at the time because I am not sure how to approach it with you. I think other people might give you better help. But they have to reply to do that. So, again - did you get the help you need?

73,

Bill KU8H


--
bark less - wag more

Re: K5BCQ uBITX Relay Switched LPF/BPF board

Ripley
 

Hello Kees

 

Trying to decide the best LPF filter fix for my needs between what you are doing and Gordon’s implantation.

So let me play back your approach as I understand it. The LPF plug in boards come from QRP labs. You pull the exiting torroids from the uBITX board and populate them on the plug in filter boards. What about the capacitors for each filter. Did you order new or move them as well? The daughter board itself is your design? The relays are new or are they from the uBITX board.

 

Lastly, the exiting firmware logic to select the appropriate filter won’t work. True?

 

Thank you are the group for all of your efforts.

 

Ripley

KD8UYQ

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

Re: Stone Soup

Robert D. Bowers
 

This thread reminds me of something I've been told by hams at least three or four times in the last 38 years - and it brings up an issue that I've faced throughout those years.  Some of the posts have been OK (even encouraging), but others...

When I got my tech ticket in 1980, I scrimped and saved until I put together $300.  I was looking for a used rig of my own, to get on the air on HF (I had an ancient crystal mobile for 2m).  One ham told me he had a radio I could buy - and when I got to his house offered me a KW linear with a fried transformer, for the full $300 (tube condition unknown).  I told him it was useless without a radio and I wasn't interested in power like that anyway.  He was furious for me 'wasting his time' - and told me "If you cannot afford to buy new, you don't belong in amateur radio".  He said if I could dig up a couple hundred more dollars, he had a nice used tube only rig (that needed repair) he'd sell me.  I walked out on him and never spoke to him again.  He and his buddies were, shall we say, not welcoming at the local club - where they dominated.

That almost killed all interest.  Finally, a few years later I got interested again, and was very much into homebrew, especially antennas.  The problem was, I still didn't have a decent radio (my hf radio was an old tube rig - that didn't work too well and had a problem I couldn't figure out).  When I mentioned my frustration with the radio, I was told "What do you expect?  If you can't afford to buy new, you should consider getting out of amateur radio!"  My radio activity went downhill again - FAST.

I have a BITX20 V2 (or version B) - that's my newest hf rig as far as the age of the radio.  My "good" radio is an Alinco DX-70, bought used years ago - and it was the only working radio within my price range (had a very small inheritance come through), although I had my heart set on a IC-706mk2G.  I also have a softrock ensemble kit, but haven't put it together, because I have minimal interest in the hobby anymore. 

The sort of thing I consider true fun - trying to make the longest contact possible with the minimum power (over 600 miles on less than 10mw on HF) for instance, or VHF sideband, or even 6m AM (cheap and fun), not to mention homebrew... well, that doesn't seem as important in the hobby as more and more and MORE POWER.  I've been stomped on enough times by the "get a gallon to get out" club, thank you (you have that happen time after time after time - you end up shutting off the radio in frustration).  Funny thing, because the problems mentioned with the BITX are made far worse by attempts at increasing the power.  Maybe people should think about LESS power???

If I do anything amateur radio-wise, I may try to convert the BITX20 to 40m and fix the VFO so it doesn't drift.  I've always wanted a small, low to moderate power 40m monobander for mobile use.  That might raise some interest again.  (I bought the BITX kit unfinished and completed it - it was sold on the proviso that I actually finish the radio and use it.)  Something with a few watts on 40 would be nice - if the low-power/mobile section of the band hasn't been taken over by the kilowatt motormouths.

The moral of the story:  The BITX series of radios may be the BEST radio a ham can afford - and being poor does NOT mean being stupid or incapable.  Having one's rig run down is disheartening AT BEST, and buying the latest and greatest?  Out of the question for people with little money, even if they have brains and ability.  Reading things like I have on this thread brings back some of the not-so-pleasant memories - and those memories are why I've only used a few pages in a single logbook over the last 38 years.

My 2 cents worth...

Bob
N4FBZ