Date   
Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 01:56 AM, Joe Milosch wrote:
########################
80m no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m digital fine
40m no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m digital fine
20m cw , ssb, digital
17m etc
15m etc
12m etc
10m etc
##########################
First item, Digital is SSB!   Really!  If SSB is not safe then digital is not either.
Now for those that have been inattentive for the last three months.

########################
80m harmonics, use external low pass filter
60m harmonics, use external low pass filter
40m harmonics, use external low pass filter
30m should be ok cw and SSB-digital
20m should be ok all modes
17m should be ok all modes.
15m CW ok, SSB has spur
12m CW ok, SSB has spur
10m CW ok, SSB has spur 
##########################

By should be ok I mean if your not over driving to try and get some power.

Ubitx version 4 speaker impedance?

Barrett O
 

What is the best impedance, size, and wattage for a speaker to be used with the ubitx version 4 board? I read someware 32ohms is this correct? 
It may be hard to find tho. I found this speaker on eBay. Would it bework well? 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-52mm-2-inch-4Ohm-3W-Range-Audio-Speaker-Stereo-Woofer-Loudspeaker-Hot-L/153007602848?hash=item239ff6bca0:g:VecAAOSwYeRaHkdW
Barrett
K5SSO

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

Now with that said in my prior.

The filter is fixable for 80/40/20.  dismount the relays, make some cuts and off to the races.
Whine about doing that?  Time to do some basic technical work.  Your license is so you can!


Allison

Re: CW OPERATION

Bo Barry <bobarr@...>
 

C'mon, total dumping is unfair.
How much did you pay him for the code. Take that into account.
Not sure but I think plenty of code is available to tinker with.
The guy is gifted, keep him HAPPY.
Comments like that would have me walking away.

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

george.woods@...
 

Hi Joe and all others in the group,

I've been a ham for more than 60 years and have built several dozens of radio kits. I've owned the best equipment available in times past and having had years of experience in engineering. But, alas, I have very severely downsized and am now living in a cramped apartment not allowing the spacious DX station that I had less than two years ago. Then, along came the uBITx. It does have a thump when t/r switching and it may have spurs and harmonics. However, my son, KA1LOR, who lives 1/2 mile away doesn't hear any problem with this little rig. At a nominal 10w max out, it isn't going to bother anyone, other than the critics. After all, it is a $120 radio! Enjoy it! It is one of the rare bargains in this great hobby of ours. Make hardware mods, hack the sketches that give it character, but most of all, enjoy it. I thoroughly enjoy seeing the fun people are having with this little radio, so keep on being creative with it. 

72/73 - George, K1DX

Re: K5BCQ uBITX Relay Switched LPF/BPF board

Lawrence Macionski <am_fm_radio@...>
 

Kees-
Modern rigs, use diode switching to engage filters. I suggest using just 1 relay for positive switching and the output of each filter be run through diodes to a commonality. It would reduce current flow to the relays by 50%.. My thought is simple- steering up front, but where the output goes is always the same..

Years ago, I did some modifications on solid state switching VHF amplifier for VHF Engineering in Binghamton, NY.. We could drive 40 watts at 146Mhz though 4 1N914's in parallel, 25 watts through 2 of them. Experimenting required --but 2-4 1N914's are cheaper than a relay. Smaller foot print too..

Re: Stone Soup

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 08:10 PM, Mark M wrote:
On 9/3/18 6:42 PM, Kees T wrote:
...
If "in the old days", enough people had access to Rigol DSA815-TG (Spectrum Analyzer and Tracking Generator) test equipment, NONE of us would have successfully built anything to get on the air and we'd all be "appliance operators".

nasty to quote a quote....  But hell why not.  I need to vent a little.

Seriously?  before I had an SA at all, I did measurements.  Things got built to a high standard
that I set and reflected industry standards I was well acquainted with.   The only thing the
RIgol or my other HP8568B did for me is make those measurements easier.

What I don't get is people will spend a kilobuck or more on a radio but same for a piece
of instrumentation "ACK! terrible expensive" is what I hear.    I also described how to
use a radio and attenuators to do it and that was "too haard!" and "you can't use that"
to do this.   Hey its your foot, shooting it is fine by me.  I also don't recommend it as
there is no need to.

The old joke is its not rocket science has a grain of truth.  It is not, its methods and
procedures and application of basic tools and a little putting ones back into it.
If you got into ham radio to learn, well get to it.  Want to lean how ask!  

I figure about 75% of what written here goes in the bit bucket anyway except
when someone has a problem is then suddenly HELP!   Hey we here have been
all along and the web version has archives. 

We should wire up the wiki as there is a great amount of knowledge and none
of its handy or there.

Allison
Every day, is there just one magik fix?

Re: CW OPERATION

Jim Sheldon
 

Bo Barry and everyone else.
1, I AM NOT dumping on Ian here.  I am trying to get him to pay attention to problems with his programming which he has chosen to ignore.  So DO NOT accuse me of dumping on him.  All I'm asking is for him to slow down, fix his original code so that it works properly and then integrate all the really nice features he's tried to add and do it so that it works right, not haphazardly.  There are too many users of his code out there who have been silently complaining about little things and have been afraid to anger the rest of the users and the programmer.  I'm not afraid to do so but I'm NOT dumping on him, merely calling on him to do what's right and FIX the problems instead or trying to work around them which adds unnecessary complexity to the program and makes the source code almost totally unreadable even by an extremely experienced programmer.

If you call that dumping then you have never had anyone take a critical but constructive look at any work you have done and should keep out of the discussion.

2.  The first rule of GOOD program development is to get the basic program running PROPERLY before responding to added feature requests.  This makes adding those features MUCH easier and quicker as you don't have so much program code to debug in the first place.

3.  A programmer should not simply patch problematical things between the original main program and any added features. He/she should address the root cause of the problem and fix that first before trying to fix other problems that crop up during the adding of features to the basic program.  Additions should integrate seamlessly with the basic routines.

4, On the humorous side, there has been a standing rule called "Murphy's Law" of programming that states emphatically, "The size of the program code will always expand to fill all available memory space plus at least one byte!"  This has happened with the meager programming space in the NANO by trying to add too many features to the program. 

This has nothing to do with just

"Free" open source software, it applies to ALL software development whether done on a commercial or hobby level.  If the programmer learns to do it right in the first place then that person becomes a far better programmer so don't ask me how much I paid him for his program(s).  Know this, if it was being sold commercially in the form it's in right now, it probably would have a lot of people demanding their money back.  That goes for much of the hacked code out there now, not just that coming from Ian or W2CTX or W8TEE (the major programmers actively putting stuff out to the uBITX community.)

Jim Sheldon, W0EB
(My final word on this subject)



Re: Right-sided relay harmonic attempted fix for v3/4 ubitx

Gordon Gibby <ggibby@...>
 

So I have checked with the United States Post Office, and it appears that I will be able to simply mail the small external relay printed circuit board in a regular envelope, enclosed with a piece of paper, and pay a tiny bit extra for mailing First Class since the envelope is "non-machineable" (won't "bend").

In order to make this as foolproof as possible from my end, I think I'll take five of the boards that I have spare, and advertise them on Ebay for a flat fee of $4.50, shipping included to the USA  (maybe canda is within the USPS mailing?)    That should cover the cost of the boards, the ebay fees and the postage.   I've sold a few things there before and it worked well for giving me mailing labels etc.

I'm at work this week and travelling this weekend, but I hope I can take some photos and create the ad and get the little boards into envelopes ready to go in the lucky happenstance that anyone WANTS them!   When I get the boards up on Ebay, I'll post a notice here that they are now available.   

The instructions for how to populate them with DigiKey parts and connect them up to the uBitx circuit board are now in the files section of this website and also on github.   I think it makes the device kopasetic for USA requirements for the 80/40/3020meter bands....and you'd be wise to use an exacto knife to make the cuts instead of the brute force dremel end-mill device that I tried!   

If by any chance there is a LOT of demand, I could always make another order from China --- but then the gerber files are out there for free and anyone else could do that also.   

Cheers,  gordon

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

sdr freak
 

On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 05:01 AM, iz oos wrote:

Thanks for the book. Chapter 2 is very important. If you want to use the chassis you need to be sure you insulate the tabs from the chassis.

Thank you for your answer!

Well, does not post from a book, i have write my words and the things from the wire up shematic v1.9, is this not ok? does i make anything wrong whit dataprotect? please help there, i just thought to describe my problem it's ok to post this? Ok my english is not the best, but my opinion was i've described the question good as i can to read this from english speaking HAM or do you mean with book the large post i made or even that nobody can figure out whats about the question of the whole points i ask for??

thank you all for more ideas, i'm at the momemt in my custom room and work on the ubitx.. so there it is a good moment for further answers to that, which I can then implement immediately and can install or change.

Is it better to post some picture of my ubitx build? (i think always picture does not even say always the knowlegde which i can learn when read oder write here in forum.. but if you want pics, please say :-)

Regards Fabian, DO6FAB

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Joe Milosch <zzmiloschxx@...>
 

On Tue, 04 Sep 2018 07:42:15 -0700
"ajparent1/KB1GMX" <kb1gmx@...> wrote:

Thanks to all who replied to this thread.
I look forward to any inexpensive filter kits
being made available, and for now, I'm not going
to worry about a 10 watt signal until someone complains.

As for digital being ssb, wouldn't the bandwidth being used
be a factor? SSB uses the full sideband whereas the digital modes
use significantly less. Or dosn't that matter. I'm thinking
of the need not to use too much audio drive.

Good chart, just what I was hoping for. If I stick to 20m, I
should be alright.

Joe


On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 01:56 AM, Joe Milosch wrote:


########################
80m no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m digital fine
40m no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m digital fine
20m cw , ssb, digital
17m etc
15m etc
12m etc
10m etc
##########################
First item, Digital is SSB!   Really!  If SSB is not safe then digital is not either.
Now for those that have been inattentive for the last three months.

########################
80m harmonics, use external low pass filter
60m harmonics, use external low pass filter
40m harmonics, use external low pass filter
30m should be ok cw and SSB-digital
20m should be ok all modes
17m should be ok all modes.
15m CW ok, SSB has spur
12m CW ok, SSB has spur
10m CW ok, SSB has spur 
##########################

By should be ok I mean if your not over driving to try and get some power.


Re: Stone Soup

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Allison,

Unless I win the lotto (and probably not even then) there won't be a day when I spend a kilobuck on a radio. There might be a day when I buy a Spectrum analyzer (or make one). But there have been times when I did plod through the steps to make the graphical presentations of filter curves and etc. For a while I had a homebrew sweeper but it was assembled with duct tape and chewing gum and eventually fell apart :) I'm considering converting an old Heathkit sweeper to solid state using real terminals and solder:)

In my early teens I built a V-O-M in a cigar box with all scrap parts. There was no range or function switch. I plugged-unplugged series and shunt resistors in a couple of old tube sockets for the functions and ranges. I used it for three or four years. Bragging? No way. I'm trying to encourage others (is that hopeless?). If I could do it *anybody* can. It really isn't rocket science.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 09/04/2018 11:11 AM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
On Mon, Sep 3, 2018 at 08:10 PM, Mark M wrote:

On 9/3/18 6:42 PM, Kees T wrote:

...
If "in the old days", enough people had access to Rigol DSA815-TG
(Spectrum Analyzer and Tracking Generator) test equipment, NONE of us
would have successfully built anything to get on the air and we'd all be
"appliance operators".

nasty to quote a quote.... But hell why not. I need to vent a little.

Seriously? before I had an SA at all, I did measurements. Things got
built to a high standard
that I set and reflected industry standards I was well acquainted with.
The only thing the
RIgol or my other HP8568B did for me is make those measurements easier.

What I don't get is people will spend a kilobuck or more on a radio but
same for a piece
of instrumentation "ACK! terrible expensive" is what I hear. I also
described how to
use a radio and attenuators to do it and that was "too haard!" and "you
can't use that"
to do this. Hey its your foot, shooting it is fine by me. I also
don't recommend it as
there is no need to.

The old joke is its not rocket science has a grain of truth. It is not,
its methods and
procedures and application of basic tools and a little putting ones back
into it.
If you got into ham radio to learn, well get to it. Want to lean how ask!

I figure about 75% of what written here goes in the bit bucket anyway
except
when someone has a problem is then suddenly HELP! Hey we here have been
all along and the web version has archives.

We should wire up the wiki as there is a great amount of knowledge and none
of its handy or there.

Allison
Every day, is there just one magik fix?

--
bark less - wag more

Re: Highest quality uBitx Case ever!

Lawrence Macionski <am_fm_radio@...>
 

About those loading coils in the background....

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Bill Cromwell
 

Hi Joe,

The digital modes use SSB and put the tones in through the mic amp. The bandwidth of the SSB filter determines the maximum width that will pass through - not the minimum. When you connect your computer to you SSB radio to do the digital modes you will see a number of different signals on your screen. All of those without changing your radio dial. Because - as you have said - those digotal signals are much narrower than speech. Therefore =, quite a few will fit into the same spectrum as *one* voice.

Putting a five amp fuse in your power supply doesn't force five amps out of it. Rather, it limits the current to 5 amps. Just like that SSB filter limits the bandwidth to about 2.5 or 3 kilocycles.

I hope this helps.

73,

Bill KU8H

On 09/04/2018 12:07 PM, Joe Milosch wrote:
On Tue, 04 Sep 2018 07:42:15 -0700
"ajparent1/KB1GMX" <kb1gmx@...> wrote:

Thanks to all who replied to this thread.
I look forward to any inexpensive filter kits
being made available, and for now, I'm not going
to worry about a 10 watt signal until someone complains.

As for digital being ssb, wouldn't the bandwidth being used
be a factor? SSB uses the full sideband whereas the digital modes
use significantly less. Or dosn't that matter. I'm thinking
of the need not to use too much audio drive.

Good chart, just what I was hoping for. If I stick to 20m, I
should be alright.

Joe


On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 01:56 AM, Joe Milosch wrote:


########################
80m no cw, no ssb, no digital modes
60m digital fine
40m no cw, ssb, digital fine
30m digital fine
20m cw , ssb, digital
17m etc
15m etc
12m etc
10m etc
##########################
First item, Digital is SSB! Really! If SSB is not safe then digital is not either.
Now for those that have been inattentive for the last three months.

########################
80m harmonics, use external low pass filter
60m harmonics, use external low pass filter
40m harmonics, use external low pass filter
30m should be ok cw and SSB-digital
20m should be ok all modes
17m should be ok all modes.
15m CW ok, SSB has spur
12m CW ok, SSB has spur
10m CW ok, SSB has spur
##########################

By should be ok I mean if your not over driving to try and get some power.



--
bark less - wag more

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

iz oos
 

Fabian, no problem at all, your English is very good and you described your doubts very well. With 'book' I was a bit kidding on the length of the post. In any case you rised a good point. Grounding is important and sometimes critical and your doubts are the same doubts of other at least 100 users.


Il 04/set/2018 17:56, "sdr freak" <sdrfreak55@...> ha scritto:
On Tue, Sep 4, 2018 at 05:01 AM, iz oos wrote:

Thanks for the book. Chapter 2 is very important. If you want to use the chassis you need to be sure you insulate the tabs from the chassis.

Thank you for your answer!

Well, does not post from a book, i have write my words and the things from the wire up shematic v1.9, is this not ok? does i make anything wrong whit dataprotect? please help there, i just thought to describe my problem it's ok to post this? Ok my english is not the best, but my opinion was i've described the question good as i can to read this from english speaking HAM or do you mean with book the large post i made or even that nobody can figure out whats about the question of the whole points i ask for??

thank you all for more ideas, i'm at the momemt in my custom room and work on the ubitx.. so there it is a good moment for further answers to that, which I can then implement immediately and can install or change.

Is it better to post some picture of my ubitx build? (i think always picture does not even say always the knowlegde which i can learn when read oder write here in forum.. but if you want pics, please say :-)

Regards Fabian, DO6FAB

Re: Ubitx V3 Please Help, ANTENNA Pins on PCB have SHORTED no Receive #ubitx #ubitx-help

DJ2AG
 

Hi Fabian,

have you been able to perform the above mentioned test QSO?

I‘m still not sure which sound you meant with „.... all others that i heared was only "piep pieeep" like a space computer sound„.

Was it Morse Code or something else? maybe you can record an audio sample to make it clear.

Armin, DJ2AG

K7HKL LPF Experiments

Arv Evans
 

Re: stone soup ingredient list, what bands and modes are usable

Warren Allgyer <allgyer@...>
 

Bill

Your analysis is true so long as the tones, or the voice if that is your mode, do not overmodulate either the audio or the RF chain. In the case of the uBitx running 10 watts of SSB, whether it is voice or tones, one or both of those stages are significantly over-modulated to the extent they put splatter into the adjacent channels on either side. This splatter will not affect anyone listening to the SSB channel but will dramatically affect those 3 KHz up and down from that channel. The effect is far worse than on a full-featured SSB transceiver in that there is no ALC or compression to control the level.

My unit, a sample of one, over-modulates at any power level greater than 1.5 watts. Most do not care as you can hear most days on 7200 KHz..... but for those who do, you are on notice.

WA8TOD

Re: Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?

W5CTD
 

I am sorry to be so ignorant but what exactly are you talking about with the IRF510 Tabs?   Can you show a picture of how to properly ground (or not ground) the device and the PC Board in general?


All the best to you

Charles T Dennis 



From: BITX20@groups.io <BITX20@groups.io> on behalf of iz oos <and2oosiz2@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 4, 2018 7:01 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Grounding shematic for a Metal Chassis, which is the right way to wire up?
 

Thanks for the book. Chapter 2 is very important. If you want to use the chassis you need to be sure you insulate the tabs from the chassis.


Il 04/set/2018 13:26, "sdr freak" <sdrfreak55@...> ha scritto:
Hi!

First i want thank you for your fast answer :-) Ok i have a new question about this.. In the Wire Up Shematic v1.9 i read this:

1. "the Ubitx board should be grounded in a metal case or a common ground if using plastic case.."

2. "IRF510 tabs have DC voltage and SHOULD NOT be grounded to metal case"

3. "Rotary encoder, audio & keyer jack wires....If using metal case jack ground wires can be omitted.The SLEEVE is grounded to the case"   <-- how becomes the case ground and what's about the other jack, the mic/ptt jack and the volume switch? Means that if the GND wires from raduino/mainboard to the jack sleeves are not anymore conected when i have grounding my ubitx main board have contact if screwed together on the 4 holes with the aluminium bottom plate where it is mounted on?

And if it was my plan to make a other additional PTT-Button and Encoder-switch button, i've seen in the v1.9 shematic, how would I wire that if I put this on 'the thing with the previously mentioned sentence' in the context that "all jack are grounded over the housing"?

When the ground wires can be omitted then their must be ground on metal case.. <<---This i would realize whit a soldered cable direct from the 'black DC-input cable' which was mounted with a cableshoe
(..it say in germany "kabelschuhe") on the case with a nice brass screw. Is this right what i have say?

..and this would be my case-main-ground-port-connection-point, for other things like a back plate brass screw for ground the whole ubitx to my home, and for sure this is a must be when i was have outdoor ham sessions, so that I can ground the whole ubitx directly over the earth floor with for example a metal bar and i like to transmit with kite antenna, long wire antenna high in trees and when this doing, i read, there should be a main ground to the earth ground.

next was point 5. in den v1.9 wire up shematic, It is important to finally have clarity..ok look please here:

5. DC-power cable should be twisted.(yes i ve do this at begin of assemble ubitx with all cable) (but now this-->) The negative (Black) wire should be lager size!

On other website i have read and see this on few ubitx build's but i missing a wire up shematic which have directly draw all these or describe a little bit more information about this whole "Grounded Case Wire Up Shematic" (when i have enough knowledge about this, then my idea is to make this wire up plan..), ...so i have no idea which cable diameter should be used for this "thicker, lager sized negative black dc-power cable.." Can someone help me with the necessary data of a diameter for this cable?

Which construction idea is the best for beginner? Only use a metal case and wire up the same like describe in the v1.7/1.9 wire up shematic here: https://groups.io/g/BITX20/photo/49276/0 and ignore the informations in the plan, like i see most metal cased ubitx pics where i never see the construction instructions with the thick black DC cable, the omission of the grounding cable at the Jack-Sleeves and encoder, grounding mount screw, just everything that I ask here wasn't see at the most picture of metal cased ubitx.. but why is wrote in the wire up instructions (v1.7-1.9) about all these important hints if then almost no one does this and still the normal wiring plan is made despite the metal box, because what I mean at all are yes then this ground loops of what is being warned ... I do not understand now..

ok last point here, warning for ' be careful of groundloops'...On another page I read that it has to do with the thick black DC cable and thus diminished, but not as it is now in the exact context with the rest of the history of the cable and the word ground loops does not tell me how to classify it in Regarding my questions about the individual points .. that would just be the point why it is so important to me to get help because I could not find it to understand. Thank you

Ok these are my question.

Ah yeah.. It is really an interesting and very demanding hobby we have.. or is it just me who is think this :D yae yae yae...hard long way to get this ubitx for rx/tx function..


I hope anyone can help me :)

Best Regards Fabian



Re: Which xmit transistor is blown?

Sean W7SKD
 

I have just about permanently taken the top off the case the radio is mounted in, and have a cooling fan connected ... hoping that will be enough going forward.  

how hot are the transistors getting?  well, when I was doing some testing today, I found that simply being in transmit with no mic connected for a few seconds (< 10 seconds) the predriver and driver transistors get noticeably warm.  I have measured all six of them (in both stages) and dont think they are blown (all six measured .6 DCV from B to E).  Typically transmitting FT8 they get hot enough not to blister but to be seriously uncomfortable.

I will be making some mods soon to apply proper bias to these 2n2222a's later this week...but with the biasing from the factory, thats what things look like right now.