Date   
Re: KD6CEC code and Nextion displays, tuning skips steps #radiuno #ubitx

Jack Purdum
 

I did this on the Forty-9er encoder (March, 2016, QST):

Inline image
The lines are often labeled CLK and DTA on the encoder.

Jack, W8TEE


On Friday, July 20, 2018, 7:53:53 AM EDT, Jim Reagan <jimreagans@...> wrote:


I had an issue with encoders several years ago, in a PIC application.  I looked at the A/B outputs and noticed spikes on the square waves.  Adding two .001uF caps across the outputs to ground, cured the issue.  Maybe that will help?  Most likely you encoder is easy to get to...
Your mileage may vary,
Jim W0CHL

Re: calibrate v4 ubitx

Jerry Gaffke
 

Yes, calibratoin should be easier.
Just needs appropriate firmware for the Raduino.
Should not require anything else.
No frequency counter.
No scope.
No host computer hooked up through the usb port.

Just tune the radio to an AM station such as WWV, enter the calibration routine,
turn the encoder knob till zero beat of the carrier is achieved, then hit PTT.
If you can't hear WWV, a shortwave broadcast station is almost always on an even 5khz frequency, within a few Hz.
The calibration accuracy will be proportional to the frequency of the station you calibrate to,
so WWV at 15mhz will give results 15 times more accurate than an AM broadcast station at 1mhz.

I haven't tried the various firmware releases, but from posts in the forum it seems none quite have it right.
Something patterned after the code in post  54501 (or post 35235 of last December) should just work.
My posts on how to do this correctly go back even further, into the Bitx40 days.

The only issue is detecting exactly where zero beat is, given the capacitive coupling
through the audio amps which limit the low freq response.
But as is, accurate enough to get within 10 hz.
Given that inherent uncertainty, may as well multiply the encoder reading by 100, not by 10, so you can find zero-beat more quickly.
That gives a granularity of 1e6 * 100/875e6 = 0.114 ppm.
Still plenty accurate, accurate enough that temp changes in the 25mhz crystal will be more of an issue.

Jerry, KE7ER

 

On Fri, Jul 20, 2018 at 08:15 AM, Joel Caulkins wrote:
You are right, I did use my calibrated HP 5384A frequency counter to determine the crystal frequency. I had forgot that. I found calibrating the hardest part of building my last uBitx transceiver, it just seems like it should be easier, but what do I know, I'm strictly a hardware man. I'm all for using WWV when the bands are good enough to actually hear it.

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

John (vk2eta)
 

Hopefully the IOs on the new Arduino are all intact.

Good to know what to look for when changing the Arduino in the new Raduino version.

Did this fix the tone issue?

73, John

Re: New file uploaded to BITX20@groups.io

Dennis Yancey <bigbluedry@...>
 

Can’t find the file.... 

Re: Source for female connectors/pins/manual crimp tool?

Dennis Yancey <bigbluedry@...>
 

You can make a Cable out of DuPont wires. You get 6 or 8 pins, lined up and clamped and use large shrink wire if black tape to hold them together. You could touch the seams between the pins/sockets with Super Glue. I have never done it with 8 wires but have made several 3 or 4 wire cables this way. 

Budd Churchward has some good tips in his YouTube videos. 

Another satisfied uBITX owner.

RCC WB5YYM
 

Just gotta figure out how to get some labels on these switches and knobs. I did not stray much from the well known modifications. I did wire the KD8CEC extended switch mod slightly different, using a string of the same value resistor similar to the push buttons in the K1EL keyer. I also switched R250 to 100k which really helps the side tone. The main board is powered through a 12v regulator, with 13.8 volts to the PA.  It does have data capability with an internal duinovox. Microphone is a gutted lamp from Walmart $5.97, that happened to be the same color scheme.  The radio works really well and I have been getting good reports from it. So far, I have only used it on 40 meters due to the antenna situation. 

Re: Another satisfied uBITX owner.

Don, ND6T
 

You da Man! Love that mic!

Re: Source for female connectors/pins/manual crimp tool?

Dave New
 

Thanks,

I ordered:


100% Brand new high quality connector, pin headers and IDC cable kit
Package quantity: 635-Piece and 5-Feet 10-Wire IDC Cable

Package Includes: 
Dupont Connector Female / Male Housing Connector. 
1x2P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x3P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x4P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x5P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x6P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x7P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x8P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece
1x9P Dupont Connector Housing Female-----------20-Piece

210-Piece Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connector. 
210-Piece Dupont Jumper Wire Cable MalePin Connector. 

10-Piece 40 Pin 2.54mm Pitch Single Row PCB Pin Header 
10-Piece 40 Pin 2.54mm Pitch Single Row Right Angle PCB Pin Headers

5-Feet 10-Wire Rainbow Color Flat Ribbon IDC Cable

for $13.87 USD, and:


IWISS Crimping Tools for Dupont Professional Pin Compression Ratcheting Modular Insulated Terminal Crimper Pin 2.54mm 3.96mm 28-18AWG 0.5-1.0mm2 with Wire-electrode Cutting Die

for $22.99 USD

I'd say the tool dies look a LOT like the one I have for Anderson Powerpoles, but I'd rather have one that is specifically designed for the Dupont stuff than to take a chance that it doesn't fit quite right. I'm a great believer in proper crimping.

In any event, since I'm a Prime member, I will get both of those with free shipping in two days.

I figured that if I got a decent quantity of the housings/pins, I could share with my club mates, since we did a quantity buy of the uBITX, and a number of them are also ordering the case I got.  No sense everyone having to scour the Internet for missing connectors.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [BITX20] Source for female connectors/pins/manual crimp tool?
From: "Dave New" <n8sbe@...>
Date: Fri, July 20, 2018 12:57 pm
To: BITX20@groups.io

Greetings,

Sorry if this has been hashed over before on the list, but I couldn't find any reference to this, either here or on the various wiki/facebook, etc. sites I found.

I have a uBITX and one of the cases.  Between the two, there are a number of interesting PCBs, cables, etc.  There are two cables provided with the uBITX that are 8-way with female housings on one end of each cable (the other end is just loose wires).

The case comes with a front panel PCB, which has lands for 8-way BergStik-type male pins (which I was able to provide from my junque box).  Now I realize that I could've just soldered the loose wires from the cables provided with the uBITX into the front panel PCB, but now that I've gone and soldered all the male pins on the front panel PCB, I now need to find the appropriate female housings/pins and a manual crimp tool, to make it all look (and work) good/well.

I think I've found the appropriate stuff on Mouser, in their Amphenol/FCI brand, but I thought it might be helpful to find out what others on the list have used (or did they just solder the loose wires to the front panel PCB?).  A number of pictures I've seen of a uBITX installed in a case shows connectors on both ends of the digital and analog cables,  but no hint where to find such animals.

I did find a pre-made cable on Amazon (by searching on Relimate), but they wanted $90 USD for one cable, meaning that I would have to plunk down $180 USD for two!  That methinks goes against the spirit of the whole BITX thing, where the point is to come up with a reproducible inexpensive design.

So, links to messages, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, and 73,

-- Dave, N8SBE

Re: logic mod for filter selection #arduino #ubitx

ajparent1/KB1GMX
 

FYI the diodes used were 1n4148/914.

Ruse the data bus for the display, you can do that.  Its better to keep them as
digital outputs but I've done that to get three outputs so that I can scan
multiple encoders with buttons and one input per encoder/button. 

The code for that is common-bus-encoders-master.  It works very well.
Not using it for bitx but handy for another project.

/*
CommonBusEncoders.cpp
Created by : Jacques Bellavance, March 26, 2017
Released into the public domain.
 
This library is designed to use multiple encoders with the least amount of digital pins.
The first encoder requires 4 pins. the remaining ones require only one extra pin per encoder.
For use with quadratic encoders with 2 or 4 steps per detent,
and need to be actuated by hand. This Library does not use interrupts.
See the Tutorial for more information
*/
 

Re: Another satisfied uBITX owner.

Kevin Rea
 

What did you use for the microphone element?

Re: Another satisfied uBITX owner.

RCC WB5YYM
 

Used the stock mic element. Added the wind screen. I think 10 for 5 bucks from Amazon or ebay. 

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

Jerry Gaffke
 


If you have a v4 with the socketed Nano, probably easiest to just buy a bunch of Nano's.
Find one that does not have the processor clock at the wrong frequency.

Be sure to buy Nano's that don't already have the pins soldered to the Nano,
since the pins must be added to the back side of the Nano.
    https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Arduino-ATmega328P-without-compatible/dp/B0713XK923/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1532111348&sr=8-3&keywords=arduino+nano&dpID=51d1hIDOGxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


The Nano's use a 16mhz ceramic resonator to determine the CPU clock frequency,
and that can vary by 50khz or more between units.
Apparently, harmonics of the 16mhz oscillator beat with harmonics of the 12mhz BFO, creating the tones.

If you hear the tones while using a v3 uBitx, try putting a finger on the (very dinky, about 2x3 mm)
ceramic resonator near the ATMega328P processor, on processor pins 7 and 8.
You will have to remove the LCD first to get your finger in there, but the radio will still work.
Since on the v3 uBitx the Nano is soldered down to the Raduino, it will be much tougher to
swap the Nano out.  Might be easier to add small capacitors (10pf) to ground from one or
both ends of the resonator.  But that resonator and ATMega328P are quite small, will be
a difficult solder job.  Might work to put insulating tape over the resonator, then grounded copper
foil over the top of that, effectively duplicating what happens when you put a finger on it.


There is also a 12mhz resonator associated with the Nano clone's ch340 USB chip.
This resonator is not active unless there is a USB connection to a host computer for a firmware download,
so interference from the 12mhz oscillator should not normally be an issue.

Jerry


On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 06:19 PM, <groupsio@...> wrote:
Is replacing the Arduino still the easiest way to fix the 13kHz tone in the headphones?

Re: K5BCQ click fix 2nd generation installed #ubitx

raymond bisseker <g3srq@...>
 

Still awaiting delivery of my uBITX....Hopefully next week?...Brilliant posts on this site...Helpful...Thanks guys.


Virus-free. www.avg.com

Re: surprising CW sidetone value in uBITX Manager 0.11 #ubitx

Mike KK7ER
 

I think I see what is going on.  For example, in initSettings(), the sidetone value is getting read from the EEPROM:

EEPROM.get(CW_SIDETONE, sideTone);
 
But later on, it is getting overwritten if the value is not "sane":

if (sideTone < 100 || 2000 < sideTone)
  sideTone = 800;
 
So that explains why uBITX Manager is showing bogus values and yet normal values show up on the LCD.

73 Mike KK7ER

uBITX No Power Output all of a sudden #ubitx

Jim Sheldon
 

While prepping a V3 uBITX I had already built up to give to a friend of mine, all of a sudden the RF Power output went to ZERO.  Thought for sure I'd somehow blown 1 or both of the IRF510's, but I learned (and taught) electronic equipment troubleshooting during the later years of my 20 year US Army career and one point I learned was that nothing is always as it seems.

First thing I checked was voltage to the drains of the IRF510's -- ZERO (yes it was hooked up and turned on).  Tracing the voltage back, I had nothing on the supply ends of L8 OR L9.  I checked continuity between those same points of L8 and L9 and had good connections there. 

I found that I had +12V on the PA Power pin of P1 but nothing on the supply end of L8 which gets connected by a short trace to a very small VIA through the board and a short trace to L8 on the underside.  Looking at the underside, the trace was not burned but it turns out that tiny little VIA was open -- poor plating through the hole.  I put a piece of 30 gauge wire wrap wire through the via and soldered it on both sides.  This brought the +12 back to the supply side of L8, L9 and subsequently the drains of the IRF-510's .  Put it all back together and I now had full power again.

I've noticed in the past a few people having similar problems and not sure if they ever did find them.  This might be the cause and is definitely worth checking as there will be no visible indication of anything bad between the PA Power pin on P1 and the rest of the PA circuit.

Hope this is helpful to some of you.

Jim Sheldon, W0EB

Re: Source for female connectors/pins/manual crimp tool?

Vince Vielhaber
 

On 07/20/2018 01:26 PM, Doug W wrote:

Tayda while lower cost only has the connectors with the "ears" on them
from a reel that you have to trim off making them less than ideal.
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/wafer-housing-crimp-terminal/serie-2500-2-54mm.html
You must have gotten a bad batch or listened to someone who had. The reel pins you get from Tayda are attached at the end where the wire goes in, not off of the ears. I've purchased hundreds from them and all were the same.

Now if someone has a source for pre-crimped wires like what comes with the bitx, I'd sure appreciate a link or at least a name of what they're called.

Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp. http://www.nobucks.net/ http://www.CDupe.com/
http://www.metalworkingfun.com

uBiTX Nextion issues

 

I purchased this Nextion 3.2" display:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG13DA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I've updated the uBITX software.  Then I've taken a 8Gbit (Sandisk, formated FAT32) and copied ubitx_32.tft onto it.  Hooked up properly to where the LCD used to reside.  When I power up the system, the display (reads at 90 degrees) Starts with "SD card update", but then quickly says "Model does not match" and " Device model NX4024K032_011R"  What am I doing wrong?  The version I bought said "enhanced".  Does that mean trouble?
Thanks, Jim W0CHL

Re: uBiTX Nextion issues

 

DUH moment... I used the WRONG file for the Nextion!  I finally noticed the other files below!
Problem solved...
Cheers,
Jim

Re: uBiTX Nextion issues

 

So pleading ignorance, why do I have this large 1/2" band of black on the right side?  Is there something wrong? Everything else seems OK.
Thanks,
Jim

Re: uBiTX Nextion issues

 

Jim,

You have to use the .tft file for the 3.2 inch display, it sounds like you used the 2.4 inch file.

Joel
N6ALT