Date   
Simple sound card interface #ft8

Praba Karan
 

I want try my ubitx for digital modes with external usb sound card and usb rs232 cable. Suggest simple interface setup for this. Are audio isolation transformers necessary in audio line?

Re: Simple sound card interface #ft8

Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...>
 

Its been 8 years since I used PSK modulation and I remember that isolation transformers were a good idea but perhaps not absolutely necessary. I think I made a pair for both line-in and line-out. I still have them. At that time nothing else was required for I was using a Kenwood TS-440-SAT which had a jack in the back to use in lieu of the microphone. I also remember that PSK could be obtained by directly placing the computer's speaker against the microphone with the PTT held down so I am thinking that nothing is necessary for PSK beyond using isolation transformers and I don't think things have changed. 

For the other forms of digital modulation that have arrived in the past 8 years I am clueless.

On Mon, May 28, 2018, 11:13 PM Praba Karan <vu3dxr@...> wrote:
I want try my ubitx for digital modes with external usb sound card and usb rs232 cable. Suggest simple interface setup for this. Are audio isolation transformers necessary in audio line?

Re: Simple sound card interface #ft8

Richie Chambless
 

I think it depends on where you tap into the audio out from the rig. I didn’t feel like drilling another hole in my case, so I use the headphone out. To do that, I had to use a low to high impedance transformer. After that, I used a Jfet buffer and a volume pot. For the transmit side I only use a buffer and volume control. Already worked several stations on FT-8 and PSK-31.

Re: Simple sound card interface #ft8

Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...>
 

Wow, you went all out. I just used the volume controls on the sound card and the Kenwood. For the isolation transformers I am pretty sure they are Radio Shack audio transformers with one side being called 8 ohm and the other either 1000 or 500 ohm depending on the taps used.


On Mon, May 28, 2018, 11:32 PM Richie Chambless <rchambless7@...> wrote:
I think it depends on where you tap into the audio out from the rig. I didn’t feel like drilling another hole in my case, so I use the headphone out. To do that, I had to use a low to high impedance transformer. After that, I used a Jfet buffer and a volume pot. For the transmit side I only use a buffer and volume control. Already worked several stations on FT-8 and PSK-31.

Re: audio dropping out

 

None taken,

Send me a recording of that happening in your uBitx. What is the marking on the audio chip ?

In bitx40 there is a 100 Ohms and a diode in series with the LM386 which has packed up in one of my
boards. The diode was slowly charging the capacitor and audio would return and drop out.

Raj

At 29/05/2018, you wrote:

Raj,

I meant no insult. I was confused. I see it turns out I was not being clear. I apologize. Can we please start over?

What was your idea, on the uBITX audio problem I described?

Thanks,
Dave

Re: uBITX Firmware CEC Version 1.08 Release #ubitx

Terry Morris
 

I will try to remember Jack's suggestion to atouk. This is something I need to learn when get the software installed.


Terry - KB8AMZ
Brimfield Twp, OH  USA
Linux User# 412308, Ubuntu User# 34905
OSs: LM18.2 64bit, Ubuntu 16.04, tahrPup64 64bit, Raspian
Orgs: PCL70-FOP, NTHS, ALUG, ARRL, PCARS#78, NAQCC#6668, NO-QRP-C, QRP-ARCI#8855, SKCC#14195, USN 1965-1969 AG3

I chair the PCARS CW/QRP SIG and Linux for Hams SIG, second and fifth Tuesday

my computer, my opinion

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:31 PM, Daniel Conklin <danconklin2@...> wrote:
Ivo,
You need to look at the links Dr. Ian gives on his blog or download the manual.
http://www.hamskey.com/2018/05/creating-simple-s-meter-sensor-for-ubitx.html
http://ubitx.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ug1072_087.pdf


Re: Site has been hacked

Terry Morris
 

Is that on a Windows OS PC?


Terry - KB8AMZ
Brimfield Twp, OH  USA
Linux User# 412308, Ubuntu User# 34905
OSs: LM18.2 64bit, Ubuntu 16.04, tahrPup64 64bit, Raspian
Orgs: PCL70-FOP, NTHS, ALUG, ARRL, PCARS#78, NAQCC#6668, NO-QRP-C, QRP-ARCI#8855, SKCC#14195, USN 1965-1969 AG3

I chair the PCARS CW/QRP SIG and Linux for Hams SIG, second and fifth Tuesday

my computer, my opinion

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 9:21 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
I doubt it's related.

On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 05:54 pm, Bo Barry wrote:
Its gone now. Evidently linked to the free books confusion which has been deleted.


Oscillation problems Bitx20a

Fokko PH0KKO
 

I built a Bitx dead-bug-style for 40 meters based on the Bitx20a schematic but I have some oscillation problem. I set the driver bias and both final biases to 50 ma and the drive adjust about a quarter of the way up. Sofar nothing wrong.

But as soon as I connect the signal generator it starts oscillating, even after disconnecting the signal and turning the drive adjust all the way down. I use a 40A switching PSU so that should be able to handle it, my amp meter does not show any fluctuation.

There are some suggestions in the Bitx20a manual but I don' t quite know hoe to interpret them: "mounting a 220 ohm resistor between C6/R13 and the collector of Q3", does that mean leave everything else as it is and add an extra resistor between these points? Or does it mean: cut the connection going from C6/R13 to T3 and put a 220 ohm resistor in between?

The same goes for "mount a 1k resistor between the drains of Q18 and Q19". Also here, should I leave it as it is and simple add a 1k resistor over the drains of these MOSFETs or put them in line between the MOSFETs going to T2? This is not clear to me. I hope someone can advise me.

 

Re: Raduino v1.27.6 (few small improvements) released #bitx40

Allard PE1NWL
 

Rogier, Ralph,

the entire sketch is contained in raduino_v1.27.xx.ino

You don't need the other one (raduino_diag_v3.ino). That one is only for
diagnostics (troubleshooting any hardware issues). You may safely delete
it (or move it away) from the downloaded folder.

Hope this helps.
73 Allard PE1NWL

On Mon, May 28, 2018 22:59, Ralph Mowery wrote:
I am new to the Arduino programming ( just started learning it in
December)
.

I know how to load in the single *.ino programs to the arduino with no
problem and how to write a very simple program and get it going or change
some of them.

What I would like to know is how to load in several files. It seems to me
that some of Dr.Lee's programs have several *.ino files and they all need
to be loaded into the Arduino.

I do have his *.hex file loaded in and it works very well.

de ku4pt



On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 4:53 PM, Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@...> wrote:



On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 3:59 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <
jjpurdum=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Rogier:

The sketches that do *not *give you problems; do they have a single
source code file or multiple source code files? Dr. Lee's program uses
multiple source code files and he has them all labelled as *.ino files
(except for header files, of course). However, Dr. Lee's code is for
the
µBITX and the code you seem to be compiling is for the Bitx40. Which
Bitx
are you trying to use?

Jack, W8TEE

Re: Receive FM Radio Station #bitx40

qonita.salimah@...
 

Thank you for your reply.
I also tried to make the wire connectivity in Baofeng mic and speaker according to the post in this threads : https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/4554574

The PTT switch in Baofeng work perfectly, but not for the speaker and mic. I will try to make the modification like you've said.

But what about the RX system? It still not receiving any ham radio signal. I tried to follow the troubleshooting that Asshar Farhan made in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8G8XAwq38A&t=456s
Here is what I've got

C107 (C13 in my schematic) makes noise when it's touched with cable.
C33 (C6) is also make noise
C31 (C9) is also make noise, but not very loud.
C53 (C5) I didn't hear any noise at all. 
C21 (C24) I didn't hear any noise at all. 

I also didn't hear any noise if the cable touched the antenna connector.

I made my own BPF and LPF because I want to make 8.456 MHz frequency as the center frequency.

Here is the schematic. To tell you the truth I didn't buy the kit from Asshar Farhan. I built in from scratch, like from the schematic, the PCB layout, and bought all the component by myself. I come from Indonesia. And this is for my final project. Still learning and this is my first time building a radio

Thank you very much for helping me

Re: Receive FM Radio Station #bitx40

 

First check if your VFO and BFO are working correctly.

Put an oscilloscope to C100 and see if you have a good voltage of your BFO frequency. Check the frequency of
BFO with a frequency counter.

Put oscilloscope to Q7 collector and check the amplitude and frequency.

Building from scratch is good and you learn a lot more!

When you reply please do not leave the whole message as groups.io removes it and I dont know to whom
you are replying to. Please delete/remove all the unwanted text and leave the lines that you are sending
a reply.

Raj

At 29/05/2018, you wrote:

I made my own BPF and LPF because I want to make 8.456 MHz frequency as the center frequency.

Here is the schematic. To tell you the truth I didn't buy the kit from Asshar Farhan. I built in from scratch, like from the schematic, the PCB layout, and bought all the component by myself. I come from Indonesia. And this is for my final project. Still learning and this is my first time building a radio

Thank you very much for helping me

Re: A steal for Arduino Experimenters

David Wilcox
 

I bought the Elegoo starter kit for $30.00 and it came with a little CD with all the files on it.  Was well worth the money.  You can go to the Elegoo site too and download their starter files.  I am sure most of the starter programs are similar.

Here is the beginning page: https://www.elegoo.com/download/

The kit I have is the basic one for the Mega 2560.  I couldn't download the file on my old iPad for some reason but you can with a real computer.  

I am surprised you aren't getting better service from Bangood.  I haven't had any problems with their stuff so far.  I prefer Adafruit though as their service is fantastic.

As long as you have the kit any beginning book about beginning Arduino should give you the lessons on how to use it.  The Arduino website itself has lots of information.  Looking over many of the starter kits available they all have the same or similar parts.  You just need the lessons.

FWIW, your mileage may vary.

Dave K8WPE 

On May 28, 2018, at 9:25 PM, AGØH <kmilr1@q.com> wrote:

I ordered and received the Basic Starter Kit from Bangood.  The kit, however, has no 'help' manual but a later post included a web address from Bangood to send for the free PDF starter guide.  That link did not work.  I wrote Bangood and, after two requests, received a 75mb zipped file.  I tried to unzip it and was given the message that the file couldn't be unzipped as it was corrupted.
Several requests to Bangood to send re-send the file have fallen on deaf ears.
So......has anyone received the PDF that could forward me a copy?  It would be greatly appreciated as this nubee needs all the help he can get in experimenting with the Arduino. 

Thanks,
Keith AGØH

Re: Oscillation problems Bitx20a

Bill Meara
 

Foko:  First, congratulations on the dead-bug scratch built BITX.    

I too had instability problems.   That is normal.   You just have to be patient and think logically to cure the problem.   Try to figure out which stage is at fault and how the unwanted feedback is happening.   Then break the feedback loop.  

Here are some blog posts about my problems.  They may help you.   You can probably find more posts like this on my site.  




Hang in there.   Good luck.  Keep us informed on your progress.   

73  Bill N2CQR    

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018, 2:46:24 AM EDT, Fokko PH0KKO <kaapstad1@...> wrote:


I built a Bitx dead-bug-style for 40 meters based on the Bitx20a schematic but I have some oscillation problem. I set the driver bias and both final biases to 50 ma and the drive adjust about a quarter of the way up. Sofar nothing wrong.

But as soon as I connect the signal generator it starts oscillating, even after disconnecting the signal and turning the drive adjust all the way down. I use a 40A switching PSU so that should be able to handle it, my amp meter does not show any fluctuation.

There are some suggestions in the Bitx20a manual but I don' t quite know hoe to interpret them: "mounting a 220 ohm resistor between C6/R13 and the collector of Q3", does that mean leave everything else as it is and add an extra resistor between these points? Or does it mean: cut the connection going from C6/R13 to T3 and put a 220 ohm resistor in between?

The same goes for "mount a 1k resistor between the drains of Q18 and Q19". Also here, should I leave it as it is and simple add a 1k resistor over the drains of these MOSFETs or put them in line between the MOSFETs going to T2? This is not clear to me. I hope someone can advise me.

 

Re: #bitx20 #bitx40 #bitx20 #bitx40

vu3dkk@...
 

OK I got formula,Then using this,how to rewind the output transformer?

Re: Simple sound card interface #ft8

John
 

I bought an el cheapo USB soundcard on eBay, also because my laptop has a combined audio port.
Has been working great for me combined with a USB cable for CAT control.

John
KG5WJQ

Re: A steal for Arduino Experimenters

AGØH
 

Thanks, Lee.  I already have the book by Jack.  The kit of added parts seemed like a good buy and I thought the PDF which was corrupted would help to explain how some of the components could be used.  
Keith - AGØH 

Re: Receive FM Radio Station #bitx40

Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...>
 

What ever the outcome you did great! Most people did not build from scratch and source their own parts.

Too bad my lack of knowing your language may make it difficult to be of much help. However, let me ask this simple question. What are you using for an antenna? If it is not something like a dipole cut to 40 meters or 20 meters or 80 meters...then you may hear nothing but noise and interference on the receiver. 
My version of the radio came to life when I connected a 40 meter dipole to the rig. The 40 meter dipole is two wires each 32.5 feet long connected at one end to either the center conductor or shield of 50 ohm coax cable. The other end of the coax runs to the rig. The feed point of this antenna, I.e. where the wires connect to the coax, is ideally elevated to 1/4 wave length in height or roughly 33 feet.
I could not elevate my 40 meter dipole so I built a compromise dipole. The issue that occurs when the dipole is not elevated to 1/4 wavelength is that the feedpoint impedance becomes terribly low to the point it is far short of 50 ohms and nearly nothing can then be heard. So, I made my dipole as a folded dipole that uses two wires on each leg. This raises the feedpoint impedance of the antenna to such an extent that it is actually spot on 50 ohms when it is barely off the ground. This of course changes the radiation pattern but not enough that I don't still pick up Dave, on or about 7.145 MHz, out of England whenever he keys up.

AgIn good luck, hope you get the bugs worked out.

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 4:12 AM <qonita.salimah@...> wrote:

Thank you for your reply.
I also tried to make the wire connectivity in Baofeng mic and speaker according to the post in this threads : https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/4554574

The PTT switch in Baofeng work perfectly, but not for the speaker and mic. I will try to make the modification like you've said.

But what about the RX system? It still not receiving any ham radio signal. I tried to follow the troubleshooting that Asshar Farhan made in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8G8XAwq38A&t=456s
Here is what I've got

C107 (C13 in my schematic) makes noise when it's touched with cable.
C33 (C6) is also make noise
C31 (C9) is also make noise, but not very loud.
C53 (C5) I didn't hear any noise at all. 
C21 (C24) I didn't hear any noise at all. 

I also didn't hear any noise if the cable touched the antenna connector.

I made my own BPF and LPF because I want to make 8.456 MHz frequency as the center frequency.

Here is the schematic. To tell you the truth I didn't buy the kit from Asshar Farhan. I built in from scratch, like from the schematic, the PCB layout, and bought all the component by myself. I come from Indonesia. And this is for my final project. Still learning and this is my first time building a radio

Thank you very much for helping me

Re: Receive FM Radio Station #bitx40

Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...>
 

Incidentally, what is your call sign?? I want to listen for you once you have the bugs worked out and the rig up and running.


On Tue, May 29, 2018, 7:54 AM Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...> wrote:
What ever the outcome you did great! Most people did not build from scratch and source their own parts.

Too bad my lack of knowing your language may make it difficult to be of much help. However, let me ask this simple question. What are you using for an antenna? If it is not something like a dipole cut to 40 meters or 20 meters or 80 meters...then you may hear nothing but noise and interference on the receiver. 
My version of the radio came to life when I connected a 40 meter dipole to the rig. The 40 meter dipole is two wires each 32.5 feet long connected at one end to either the center conductor or shield of 50 ohm coax cable. The other end of the coax runs to the rig. The feed point of this antenna, I.e. where the wires connect to the coax, is ideally elevated to 1/4 wave length in height or roughly 33 feet.
I could not elevate my 40 meter dipole so I built a compromise dipole. The issue that occurs when the dipole is not elevated to 1/4 wavelength is that the feedpoint impedance becomes terribly low to the point it is far short of 50 ohms and nearly nothing can then be heard. So, I made my dipole as a folded dipole that uses two wires on each leg. This raises the feedpoint impedance of the antenna to such an extent that it is actually spot on 50 ohms when it is barely off the ground. This of course changes the radiation pattern but not enough that I don't still pick up Dave, on or about 7.145 MHz, out of England whenever he keys up.

AgIn good luck, hope you get the bugs worked out.

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 4:12 AM <qonita.salimah@...> wrote:

Thank you for your reply.
I also tried to make the wire connectivity in Baofeng mic and speaker according to the post in this threads : https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/4554574

The PTT switch in Baofeng work perfectly, but not for the speaker and mic. I will try to make the modification like you've said.

But what about the RX system? It still not receiving any ham radio signal. I tried to follow the troubleshooting that Asshar Farhan made in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8G8XAwq38A&t=456s
Here is what I've got

C107 (C13 in my schematic) makes noise when it's touched with cable.
C33 (C6) is also make noise
C31 (C9) is also make noise, but not very loud.
C53 (C5) I didn't hear any noise at all. 
C21 (C24) I didn't hear any noise at all. 

I also didn't hear any noise if the cable touched the antenna connector.

I made my own BPF and LPF because I want to make 8.456 MHz frequency as the center frequency.

Here is the schematic. To tell you the truth I didn't buy the kit from Asshar Farhan. I built in from scratch, like from the schematic, the PCB layout, and bought all the component by myself. I come from Indonesia. And this is for my final project. Still learning and this is my first time building a radio

Thank you very much for helping me

Re: FS: Bitx AGC Kits

Dave <k4em@...>
 

Is there a non-SMD board version available, SMD is too small for me. If you have the eagle files, I could send off to OSHPark would be fine. Thanks.

Dave
k4em

Re: Receive FM Radio Station #bitx40

Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...>
 

Since your building your rig from scratch this will be easy for you to accomplish.

Once everything is working. Modify the amp that the microphone feeds by doing this:

"I lhave changed just R63 so now it is 24 ohm (I added 2 ordinary 100ohms resistors in parallel) as suggested. I confirm it increases the average power to the right level given the stock mic element."

This is the fix people are using to increase the gain. Its the one that I can't do because my hands are not steady enough to pull it off. Hence I am going the route of adding a pre-amp which I intend to make variable. Apparently without this change the audio being mixed into the RF is too weak and one needs to speak rather loudly to be heard on receive.

Good luck and I am rooting for your success.

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 8:07 AM Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...> wrote:
Incidentally, what is your call sign?? I want to listen for you once you have the bugs worked out and the rig up and running.

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 7:54 AM Mike aka KC2WVB <rb5363@...> wrote:
What ever the outcome you did great! Most people did not build from scratch and source their own parts.

Too bad my lack of knowing your language may make it difficult to be of much help. However, let me ask this simple question. What are you using for an antenna? If it is not something like a dipole cut to 40 meters or 20 meters or 80 meters...then you may hear nothing but noise and interference on the receiver. 
My version of the radio came to life when I connected a 40 meter dipole to the rig. The 40 meter dipole is two wires each 32.5 feet long connected at one end to either the center conductor or shield of 50 ohm coax cable. The other end of the coax runs to the rig. The feed point of this antenna, I.e. where the wires connect to the coax, is ideally elevated to 1/4 wave length in height or roughly 33 feet.
I could not elevate my 40 meter dipole so I built a compromise dipole. The issue that occurs when the dipole is not elevated to 1/4 wavelength is that the feedpoint impedance becomes terribly low to the point it is far short of 50 ohms and nearly nothing can then be heard. So, I made my dipole as a folded dipole that uses two wires on each leg. This raises the feedpoint impedance of the antenna to such an extent that it is actually spot on 50 ohms when it is barely off the ground. This of course changes the radiation pattern but not enough that I don't still pick up Dave, on or about 7.145 MHz, out of England whenever he keys up.

AgIn good luck, hope you get the bugs worked out.

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 4:12 AM <qonita.salimah@...> wrote:

Thank you for your reply.
I also tried to make the wire connectivity in Baofeng mic and speaker according to the post in this threads : https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/4554574

The PTT switch in Baofeng work perfectly, but not for the speaker and mic. I will try to make the modification like you've said.

But what about the RX system? It still not receiving any ham radio signal. I tried to follow the troubleshooting that Asshar Farhan made in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8G8XAwq38A&t=456s
Here is what I've got

C107 (C13 in my schematic) makes noise when it's touched with cable.
C33 (C6) is also make noise
C31 (C9) is also make noise, but not very loud.
C53 (C5) I didn't hear any noise at all. 
C21 (C24) I didn't hear any noise at all. 

I also didn't hear any noise if the cable touched the antenna connector.

I made my own BPF and LPF because I want to make 8.456 MHz frequency as the center frequency.

Here is the schematic. To tell you the truth I didn't buy the kit from Asshar Farhan. I built in from scratch, like from the schematic, the PCB layout, and bought all the component by myself. I come from Indonesia. And this is for my final project. Still learning and this is my first time building a radio

Thank you very much for helping me