Date   
Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

Tim Gorman
 

Mike,

Nice. Did you line the box with copper or just left the plastic as is?

tim ab0wr

On Sat, 17 Mar 2018 06:05:16 -0700
"Michael Aiello" <n2htt.mike@...> wrote:

After about 8 weeks of working on it slowly, a few minutes at a time,
I've finally finished boxing up my uBitX and it's now up and running
FB. The box and mic holder are 3d-printed from a design I found on
Thingiverse and remixed a bit.
I've made a few mods along the way:

* replaced failed WX TDA2822 with a NJM2073D pin-compatible chip
* rewired power to put fuse ahead of protective diode
* added QRPGuys keying adapter
* upgraded firmware to KD8CEC v1.01
* increased mic gain by added 47 ohm resistor across R63

I'm primarily interested in CW, so I tried out my NesCAF switched
capaacitance audio filter with the rig -it works great! The NesCAF
was built from a kit years ago, and has been languishing on a shelf,
but it will get used now daily. I've had a lot of fun with this
little rig already just putting it together, I'm looking forward to
getting on the air with it a regularly. 73, Mike N2HTT

Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

 

Howard,

 I too have been using the 2073 with much better audio and no more distortion over load at low volume. Got mine from a 1991 tape player :-)


--
David

 N8DAH
Kit-Projects.com

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

Ashhar Farhan
 

Place the FET on the OTHER side of the R70.
- f

On 17 Mar 2018 7:52 pm, "DrZ" <zehrhj2@...> wrote:
Correction: I meant to say that I replaced R250 with a pot so that I could adjust sidetone volume.
Howard

Re: Looking for Completely Functional Dual-Band 20/(17/15/10/6) Meter QRP Rig with SSB/PSK #bitx20help

Gordon Gibby
 

Can you give a little more specifics on how you found the receivers were different?


On Mar 15, 2018, at 17:07, Sajid Rahum via Groups.Io <zs735@...> wrote:

Go for Quansheng uv-r50.  Far far better than Baofeng

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/New-for-Ham-Radio-Fan-Upgrade-2000mAh-Long-Standby-5W-QUANSHENG-TG-R50-Dual-Band-VHF/2841090_32830410473.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.232c3cf77LeGqp

I ordered two of these.  I have Baofeng UV-82 side by side.  Day night difference between receivers.

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

 

BITX40 or uBITX you must disclose, we are sworn to secrecy!

At 17/03/2018, you wrote:
I implemented the audio pop fix suggested by Joe, VE2BWV (see uBitx.net). It does pretty much eliminate the pop. However, it also eliminates my cw sidetone. (Note: I also have a 220uf cap as per Ashhar's suggestion; 470 created too much delay in the return to receive.)

I have a pot across R250 to allow me to adjust the sidetone volume. If I turn it down to 0, basically eliminating R250, I get a bit of sidetone, but I'd much prefer to have more.

I'd appreciate suggestions about how to keep this mod but get my sidetone back.

73 Howard K4LXY

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

 

Only 10 Ohms load, Try R70 = 1K or even 10K.

Raj


At 17/03/2018, you wrote:
Place the FET on the OTHER side of the R70.
- f

On 17 Mar 2018 7:52 pm, "DrZ" <zehrhj2@...> wrote:
Correction: I meant to say that I replaced R250 with a pot so that I could adjust sidetone volume.
Howard

uBITX Low Power Output

WA9GQT@...
 

I removed the bad U1 TDA2822 and installed the new TDA2822 in an IC socket.  Receiving great again. Now I am troubleshooting low power 
output.  Only getting 2 watts maximum power on 30 meters drawing 0.88 A.  Even though I can only get maximum power of 2 watts on 30m,
I did make a contact with KE4COH, Bryan in Lancaster, SC. 
He gave me RST 449 but copied me solid with my 2 watts into a dipole.  I checked
power output on 80
meters and getting 4 watts out at 1.03 A.  Any troubleshooting help would be appreciated. 
Thanks,
73, Rod WA9GQT


Re: Soldering gun or iron

Fr Richard R <rickocr2005@...>
 

Well....... with all said and done..... this is what I finally decided to purchase for my beginning setup:

a simple set up for this beginner...... trying to keep things inexpensive for the time being.

Now to find the time to begin with the build.

thanks to all for your advice.  I am sure I will be looking at past emails in the group as I start!!

73 and God Bless

Fr Richard
WB8YXF




On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 9:43:42 AM EDT, Craig Thibodeaux <km4yec@...> wrote:


No way I was going to leave this alone…

First advice, don’t listen to any ONE on this list, nor or any other list of any nature…never one….try it yourself…try multiple ways, and stick with what works for you.

So, with that said, here’s mine…

Get a temperature controlled solder station…that doesn’t mean 4 detents with 4 temps….that means 0 degrees to 700+ F with ability to pick your temp….as you always want lowest temperature that will work for the job….similar to radio….lowest watts out needed to do the job…but, with ability just like radio….to blast it when needed…and fast….

I have a solder station that is a replacement for the exact same model….one stolen back in 1995 (along with scope, NTSC generator, freq counter….everything except my fluke….I am still using it daily….from MCM (called something different now)….last I checked they started selling it again, as customers complained when it was discontinued. Cost when I checked last was about $70.  Tips got good back in the 90’s if you treat them right….I am using a tip from 1995 daily….very fine conical tip….will do almost anything….just slide up the barrel…

I recently bought one of these 2 in one hot air and solder rework stations….862D+….got mine for $49….most go from 60 to 65.  I broke the soldering iron (shame it worked great, but when it fell out the car, it snapped in half), found out the element isn’t ceramic, but is nichrome….and first replacement isn’t right)  the hot air works great, temperature tracks with a harbor freight thermocouple (so you know it has to be good)….my little builders group has been playing with this with manual pick and place, that is drivable….use a bicycle pump shell for z-axis, and steer with the T-handle, vacuum is a Tetra-whisper aquarium pump, and add a $30 USB camera (was daily special)…..a tube of MG solder paste, took off the nozzle and replace with smaller diameter nozzle off of empty flux refill bottle, and then used another of those empty bottle nozzles for the syringe pick up tube (luer lock) …..

if you want to see what we are doing go to Facebook Group: wecanhams 

this is latest with hot air/with no rework with pencil:


this one is a short video of the pick and place in action….with USB camera…I have made some improvements like 2 point clamps on the red tube and a recessed pick area...


Important to have a way to monitor the board temperature if you are using hot air or a reflow oven, and run a recognized heat profile…takes a little practice...


the latest hot air placement with no rework, paste was laid down with syringe, a little dab will do ya...


the rework station bolted down, before accessories added to new home. We are working with a lot of junk and recycled, up cycled junk.


Drivable Pick and Place in action, see the video on FB group



Our little builders group is having a blast with SMD’s….you should, too. 

Craig
KM4YEC


On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:

Great Place for Solder and SMD Supplies!

72's Mike, WA6ISP

https://www.cmlsupply.com/


On 3/16/2018 3:27 PM, Roy Appleton wrote:
I don't do a lot of SMD projects and so I don't use a mask just manually apply the solder paste from a syringe that the paste came in. My advice is that you can't have too small a nozzle. In the attached photo I use the cone shaped one because the black one is too big. You'd be surprised how little paste you need before you make a big mess! My source for paste isn't available any more so don't have any suggestions but I'm sure it's not hard to find sources.

Roy
WA0YMH

On Mar 16, 2018 2:04 PM, "Christopher Miller" <djmalak2k6@...> wrote:
How do you apply the paste? I dont have a way to create a mask for a pcb. You also make a good point. If you have a heat gun you can use shrink wrap. Thats a great reason to get a hot air rework station with an iron.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

K4LXY
 

Opps - uBitx

Re: Soldering gun or iron

Christopher Miller
 

This looks pretty good for the initial setup. It has tweezers even. One thing I would still recommend is the metal tip cleaner. It might just be the leaded solder, but I find the sponges dont clean the tip as well. Plus you shock the tip by sticking it in relatively cold water.

Chris
KF4FTR

Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

 

Looks great Mike, glad you got the audio fixed. I received my NJM2073D chips last week but haven't needed them yet, maybe never. I really like the compact box you used.

Joel
N6ALT

Re: Low power output on ubitx

Mike R.
 

Hi Conrad and thanks for the reply.
I just shootgunned and replaced Q90 with a non-smd part and have exactly the same problem.
So replacing Q90 doesn't seem to be the cure.
In reading the posts I see where 12v on the collector of Q90 could be a bad thing. I get 11.7v on the collector,
3.7v on the base, and almost 3v on the emitter. I'm thinking I might have an issue further down the transmit chain.
The 12v I'm seeing on the collectors of Q92,93,96,and 97 are concerning as Glen's measurements has them at 2.8v.

Re: Soldering gun or iron

David Wilcox
 

If you plan on ANY rework (removing parts from a scrap rig or parts you soldered in in error) forget the solder sucker in that set.  I have tried many different ones over the years and found them not effective.  If you don't want to invest in a real solder vacuum removal device get some solder wick of different sizes and a bottle of rosin flux.  Dip the wick in the flux, heat it up by the part you are removing and little by little the wick actually wicks up the solder until it is 95% removed. Then with a little heat on the remaining legs of whatever you are removing you can lift it off or out of the holes in the board.  I have been doing that for years with great success.  Then remove the excess flux with 91% rubbing alcohol available at any drug store.

Have fun.

Dave K8WPE

On Mar 17, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Fr Richard R via Groups.Io <rickocr2005@...> wrote:

Well....... with all said and done..... this is what I finally decided to purchase for my beginning setup:

a simple set up for this beginner...... trying to keep things inexpensive for the time being.

Now to find the time to begin with the build.

thanks to all for your advice.  I am sure I will be looking at past emails in the group as I start!!

73 and God Bless

Fr Richard
WB8YXF




On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 9:43:42 AM EDT, Craig Thibodeaux <km4yec@...> wrote:


No way I was going to leave this alone…

First advice, don’t listen to any ONE on this list, nor or any other list of any nature…never one….try it yourself…try multiple ways, and stick with what works for you.

So, with that said, here’s mine…

Get a temperature controlled solder station…that doesn’t mean 4 detents with 4 temps….that means 0 degrees to 700+ F with ability to pick your temp….as you always want lowest temperature that will work for the job….similar to radio….lowest watts out needed to do the job…but, with ability just like radio….to blast it when needed…and fast….

I have a solder station that is a replacement for the exact same model….one stolen back in 1995 (along with scope, NTSC generator, freq counter….everything except my fluke….I am still using it daily….from MCM (called something different now)….last I checked they started selling it again, as customers complained when it was discontinued. Cost when I checked last was about $70.  Tips got good back in the 90’s if you treat them right….I am using a tip from 1995 daily….very fine conical tip….will do almost anything….just slide up the barrel…

I recently bought one of these 2 in one hot air and solder rework stations….862D+….got mine for $49….most go from 60 to 65.  I broke the soldering iron (shame it worked great, but when it fell out the car, it snapped in half), found out the element isn’t ceramic, but is nichrome….and first replacement isn’t right)  the hot air works great, temperature tracks with a harbor freight thermocouple (so you know it has to be good)….my little builders group has been playing with this with manual pick and place, that is drivable….use a bicycle pump shell for z-axis, and steer with the T-handle, vacuum is a Tetra-whisper aquarium pump, and add a $30 USB camera (was daily special)…..a tube of MG solder paste, took off the nozzle and replace with smaller diameter nozzle off of empty flux refill bottle, and then used another of those empty bottle nozzles for the syringe pick up tube (luer lock) …..

if you want to see what we are doing go to Facebook Group: wecanhams 

this is latest with hot air/with no rework with pencil:


this one is a short video of the pick and place in action….with USB camera…I have made some improvements like 2 point clamps on the red tube and a recessed pick area...


Important to have a way to monitor the board temperature if you are using hot air or a reflow oven, and run a recognized heat profile…takes a little practice...

<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>

the latest hot air placement with no rework, paste was laid down with syringe, a little dab will do ya...

<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>

the rework station bolted down, before accessories added to new home. We are working with a lot of junk and recycled, up cycled junk.

<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>

Drivable Pick and Place in action, see the video on FB group

<smdpnplib.png>


Our little builders group is having a blast with SMD’s….you should, too. 

Craig
KM4YEC


On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:

Great Place for Solder and SMD Supplies!

72's Mike, WA6ISP

https://www.cmlsupply.com/


On 3/16/2018 3:27 PM, Roy Appleton wrote:
I don't do a lot of SMD projects and so I don't use a mask just manually apply the solder paste from a syringe that the paste came in. My advice is that you can't have too small a nozzle. In the attached photo I use the cone shaped one because the black one is too big. You'd be surprised how little paste you need before you make a big mess! My source for paste isn't available any more so don't have any suggestions but I'm sure it's not hard to find sources.

Roy
WA0YMH

On Mar 16, 2018 2:04 PM, "Christopher Miller" <djmalak2k6@...> wrote:
How do you apply the paste? I dont have a way to create a mask for a pcb. You also make a good point. If you have a heat gun you can use shrink wrap. Thats a great reason to get a hot air rework station with an iron.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
<smdpnplib.png>
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>

Re: Soldering gun or iron

Fr Richard R <rickocr2005@...>
 

Thanks Dave,
I did order some Flux and Wick also.


Fr Richard



On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 12:33:47 PM EDT, David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01@...> wrote:


If you plan on ANY rework (removing parts from a scrap rig or parts you soldered in in error) forget the solder sucker in that set.  I have tried many different ones over the years and found them not effective.  If you don't want to invest in a real solder vacuum removal device get some solder wick of different sizes and a bottle of rosin flux.  Dip the wick in the flux, heat it up by the part you are removing and little by little the wick actually wicks up the solder until it is 95% removed. Then with a little heat on the remaining legs of whatever you are removing you can lift it off or out of the holes in the board.  I have been doing that for years with great success.  Then remove the excess flux with 91% rubbing alcohol available at any drug store.

Have fun.

Dave K8WPE

On Mar 17, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Fr Richard R via Groups.Io <rickocr2005@...> wrote:

Well....... with all said and done..... this is what I finally decided to purchase for my beginning setup:

a simple set up for this beginner...... trying to keep things inexpensive for the time being.

Now to find the time to begin with the build.

thanks to all for your advice.  I am sure I will be looking at past emails in the group as I start!!

73 and God Bless

Fr Richard
WB8YXF




On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 9:43:42 AM EDT, Craig Thibodeaux <km4yec@...> wrote:


No way I was going to leave this alone…

First advice, don’t listen to any ONE on this list, nor or any other list of any nature…never one….try it yourself…try multiple ways, and stick with what works for you.

So, with that said, here’s mine…

Get a temperature controlled solder station…that doesn’t mean 4 detents with 4 temps….that means 0 degrees to 700+ F with ability to pick your temp….as you always want lowest temperature that will work for the job….similar to radio….lowest watts out needed to do the job…but, with ability just like radio….to blast it when needed…and fast….

I have a solder station that is a replacement for the exact same model….one stolen back in 1995 (along with scope, NTSC generator, freq counter….everything except my fluke….I am still using it daily….from MCM (called something different now)….last I checked they started selling it again, as customers complained when it was discontinued. Cost when I checked last was about $70.  Tips got good back in the 90’s if you treat them right….I am using a tip from 1995 daily….very fine conical tip….will do almost anything….just slide up the barrel…

I recently bought one of these 2 in one hot air and solder rework stations….862D+….got mine for $49….most go from 60 to 65.  I broke the soldering iron (shame it worked great, but when it fell out the car, it snapped in half), found out the element isn’t ceramic, but is nichrome….and first replacement isn’t right)  the hot air works great, temperature tracks with a harbor freight thermocouple (so you know it has to be good)….my little builders group has been playing with this with manual pick and place, that is drivable….use a bicycle pump shell for z-axis, and steer with the T-handle, vacuum is a Tetra-whisper aquarium pump, and add a $30 USB camera (was daily special)…..a tube of MG solder paste, took off the nozzle and replace with smaller diameter nozzle off of empty flux refill bottle, and then used another of those empty bottle nozzles for the syringe pick up tube (luer lock) …..

if you want to see what we are doing go to Facebook Group: wecanhams 

this is latest with hot air/with no rework with pencil:


this one is a short video of the pick and place in action….with USB camera…I have made some improvements like 2 point clamps on the red tube and a recessed pick area...


Important to have a way to monitor the board temperature if you are using hot air or a reflow oven, and run a recognized heat profile…takes a little practice...

<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>

the latest hot air placement with no rework, paste was laid down with syringe, a little dab will do ya...

<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>

the rework station bolted down, before accessories added to new home. We are working with a lot of junk and recycled, up cycled junk.

<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>

Drivable Pick and Place in action, see the video on FB group

<smdpnplib.png>


Our little builders group is having a blast with SMD’s….you should, too. 

Craig
KM4YEC


On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:

Great Place for Solder and SMD Supplies!

72's Mike, WA6ISP

https://www.cmlsupply.com/


On 3/16/2018 3:27 PM, Roy Appleton wrote:
I don't do a lot of SMD projects and so I don't use a mask just manually apply the solder paste from a syringe that the paste came in. My advice is that you can't have too small a nozzle. In the attached photo I use the cone shaped one because the black one is too big. You'd be surprised how little paste you need before you make a big mess! My source for paste isn't available any more so don't have any suggestions but I'm sure it's not hard to find sources.

Roy
WA0YMH

On Mar 16, 2018 2:04 PM, "Christopher Miller" <djmalak2k6@...> wrote:
How do you apply the paste? I dont have a way to create a mask for a pcb. You also make a good point. If you have a heat gun you can use shrink wrap. Thats a great reason to get a hot air rework station with an iron.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
<smdpnplib.png>
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

K4LXY
 

Tried this - no luck.
Thanks
Howard

Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

Michael Aiello
 

Hi Howard,
The 2073 seems to beworking fine, good audio and plenty of volume, I've run it turned all the way up to drive the NesCAF, since you lose some volume as you crank down the bandwidth, and it's been fine, no problems at all.
Haven't done a pop fix yet, still mulling over the options. In the mean time I use the old trick of putting the phones just off the ear
73 Mike

Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

Michael Aiello
 

Hi Tim,
Just left it as is. I was thinking about copper tape on the top and sides, but given the way the board sits and the way the box goes together, decided it was more trouble that it would be worth. So far I haven't noticed any downside to not having the shielding.
73 Mike

Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX #ubitx

Michael Aiello
 

Hey Joel, 

If you have a socket on the board I would definitely switch it out. Sound quality is really very good, although I never actually heard the rig with the 2822 so it's not really a comparison. If the chip is soldered in I don't know if it would be worth the bother, especially if you have everything working now.
Thinking about doing a pop fix but haven't picked one yet.
73 Mike

Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone

K4LXY
 

 I did try moving the circuit to the other side of R70, and also replacing R70 with 1K and 10K. Unfortunately none of this worked to bring the sidetone back.
Thanks
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Howard K4LXY

Re: PCB Price Comparison tool

K9HZ <bill@...>
 

Heres what my PCB buddy says:

Bill, I have been using pcbway.com for my boards.  Insanely cheap price but so far fantastic quality.  No routing restrictions like others.  They take PayPal too.  You may share that with these guys.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ

 

Owner - Operator

Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC

Staunton, Illinois

 

Owner – Operator

Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ

Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.

Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com


email:  bill@...

 


On Mar 17, 2018, at 8:24 AM, denm178@... wrote:

Check out Oshpark for pcb prices.
73 Dennis