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Re: Accident, Did I damage my Raduino

Richard Sanders
 

I was thinking the same thing, Allard!!

Thanks for including the code for those who might need it! :-D

73
RIc
KN4FTT

Re: AE7EU Top mod update

 

Looks great!
--
David

 N8DAH
Kit-Projects.com

Re: Diy oscilloscope #parts

Jerry Gaffke
 

I'll have to look that STM32 forum over, see what they are up to.
But with the DSO138 code up on github, should be trivial to get a basic display going.
That new improved code up on github that I pointed to previously probably comes from your STM32 forum.
No need for all the op amps and switches and stuff of the DSO138 board if you know the kind of signal you want to look at,
and you might actually get 200khz of bandwidth by going around it.

For looking at RF, an SA612 mixer is probably the best bet.
Houtman's 1ghz bandwidth sampling head calls to me, and Houtman really knew what he was doing.
But that and all those other sampling techniques I suggested would be tough for most bitx owners.
To use a sampling head you need to set up a repeating signal with a good accurate trigger of some sort.

There were lots of different 602/612 type parts made in the early 1990's. 
Signetics started out with the NE602, and the subsequent NE612 was either better or cheaper depending on who you believe.
There was also an A tacked on to some of the part numbers, signifying some further improvement.
Some differences in temperature ratings.
Signetics (was NE612) got bought by Philips (renamed the SA612), and Philips got bought by NXP, further confusing things.
NXP has two datasheets up, not a nickle's worth of difference between them on page 8, and both are -40C to +85C:
    https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/SA602A.pdf
    https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/SA612A.pdf
I don't think anybody else is selling them, it's now a choice of just the above two parts.
I've heard that they are actually the same die, but that NXP still has 602 customers that insist on 602 labeling
so they don't have to qualify the new part.  Mouser sells both, the SA612A being significantly cheaper.
Cheaper is good enough for me, I'll go with the SA612A unless somebody knows more about this silliness. 

Jerry, KE7ER


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 06:32 am, Michael Monteith wrote:
Jerry,
   I love the idea of using a SA612 type device to bring the frequency down.   The STM32 micro could process the signal.  Over in the  STM32 Duino Forum several people have made their own o-scope out of the device.  They even squeezed better performance as well.   I used to follow the group very closely.   But I'm using mostly ESP32 devices myself right now so haven't followed it much at all lately.

Re: First Arduino sketch loaded

Jerry Gaffke
 

I guess it depends on how you learn.

K&R C  is compact and concise, delving deeply into intracacies that some would prefer to ignore.
I found it easy to follow, and engaging enough that it was hard to put down.
Reviewers on Amazon like it at least as much as any other C book.
Perhaps a bit dated now in that it was written for somebody hovering over an ASR33,
though I don't see that as a minus. 
You definitely want the 2'd edition, covering the ANSI C extensions of the late 1980's.

Best bet might be to find a brick and mortar bookstore that carries it, see if it grabs you.
Or perhaps some other book works for you.
And give them some business if it does.
 
Jerry


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 10:33 am, Rod Self wrote:
I have long mused that K&R C is the worst example of technical documentation that I have seen.

There are much better ways to learn C. I have not seen Jack Purdum's book, but I suspect it is
a wonderful book.

YMMV,

Re: First Arduino sketch loaded

Vince Vielhaber
 

"C Made Easy" and the revised version "Ansi C Made Easy" is an excellent book for learning C. Takes you step by step, but when you're learning a copy of K&R nearby is almost a must.

Vince.

On 02/02/2018 01:33 PM, Rod Self wrote:
Hi All,

I suggest staying away from the Kernighan&Ritchie C book. I used it in
the late 70s to learn C.

I have long mused that K&R C is the worst example of technical
documentation that I have seen.

There are much better ways to learn C. I have not seen Jack Purdum's
book, but I suspect it is
a wonderful book.

YMMV,

Rod KM6SN


On 02/02/2018 10:12 AM, Arv Evans wrote:
I totally agree. What "class" stuff that is in the Arduino libraries

Re: uBITX schema relay K1 #ubitx

Brian
 

I agree Fred, it adds a feedback path around the TX amplifier which has quite a high gain. There is a potential for parasitic oscillation at some frequency and that will be affected by the load. It might be a good thing that the IRF510 does not give a high gain at high frequencies. It needs to be carefully checked out with measurements. Add-on linear amplifiers avoid the problem by only having 10 to 20dB gain.
73 Brian VK4BAP

Re: Diy oscilloscope #parts

Michael Monteith
 

Jerry,
  Not surprised.  A couple of the guys over there were squeezing every bit they could out of the code for the oscope.  I can't remember
who exactly.   It's been at least 6 months since I've kept up with what was going on.   But some of them guys know all the ins and outs of that device. 
They know enough to have my head spinning knowing what they're talking about.

  As far as the 602/612 type devices there are lots of discussions out there over it for sure.   I'm like you I buy what's cheap and works.   Probably not
enough differences for what most people do anyway to notice.  

  Sounds like a fun project but not enough time on my hands lately to do much.   Enjoy

73, Michael
KM4OLT


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 11:16 am, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
I'll have to look that STM32 forum over, see what they are up to.
But with the DSO138 code up on github, should be trivial to get a basic display going.
That new improved code up on github that I pointed to previously probably comes from your STM32 forum.

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

John <passionfruit88@...>
 

Jerry, I am not sure which is the problem, but I can't tell now that I destroyed the Arduino.

The key pointer was when I connected a 1nF capacitor to one side of the Arduino crystal to ground, effectively stopping the clock of the cpu, the tones within the passband would disappear (as well as any control of course).

Cheers, John

Re: uBITX AM BCI Filter #ubitx

John <passionfruit88@...>
 

Hello Nick,

Thanks for the information, I will order the parts and do the same.

Cheers, John

Re: uBITX AGC - Adafruit TPA2016, A Success! #ubitx

John <passionfruit88@...>
 

Nick,

I am interested in the TPA2016 option too as I want an AGC and have low volume on the upper bands. That would kill two birds with one stone.

I am curious, since it is a class D amplifier, did you have to take special steps to prevent hash getting in the receive path?

Also, where did you buy the unit and the mic compressor one too?

All the best,

73, John

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

Dave Bottom <ars.kd6az@...>
 

John,

Thanks for your hard work.  My uBITX has the same exact issue with the "squeal".  Mine did not originally have this issue until a couple of weeks ago (received Dec 22) and now it has gotten worse over that time.

It is interesting that the HFOs were off far enough to effect the signal by 8dB. Something to check and maybe this should be part of alignment for each radio?  At least with a spectrum analyzer this won't be too hard.
Yes interested in your code for this test.  

So now when I have time I know what to try, although it doesn't sound like much fun changing the Nano.

Dave WI6R

On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 10:03 PM, John <passionfruit88@...> wrote:
Problem solved.

Just to re-state the issue: strong tones within the passband, mostly fixed in ferquency. Some slight variation in frequency when scanning through the menu items. Also strong tones outside the passband (near 6400Hz and 14900Hz). These were fixed in frequency and would change with BFO frequency adjustments.

I also had noises when turning the tuning encoder each time the frequency was changed. I thought these were normal as they were mentioned in the Bitx40 rig.

I bought a cheap Arduino on eBay and after some struggle I changed the Nano, re-programmed it and all came good. The tones within the passband are gone and the ones outside the passband can be eliminated with a careful choice of BFO frequency.

Also the tuning noises have disappeared. 

So it must have been a bad Arduino in all logic.

As an interesting aside, when chasing this issue I changed the first two mixers VFOs thereby changing the alignment between the 45Mhz filter and the 12Mhz one. I noticed that the default values produced a signal around 8dBs lower than when "re-aligning" the two passbands.

If anyone is interested I can share the code for this test (I simply re-assigned the RIT menu item and had an extra variable which was added to the first two VFOs so that the net received frequency stayed the same, but the first IF was shifted correspondingly).

Please note that I found the removal of the Arduino a challenge and resorted to cutting the edges out of the Arduino board with a
Dremel and cut the plastic spacer between each pin to be able to de-solder each one individually. I have not mastered James technique obviously!

Since I have mounted the display remotely and have space towards the front of the Raduino, I opted to put some female headers so that I can plug/unplug the Arduino, just in case.

Hope this helps,

73, John (VK2ETA)




--
73 Dave WI6R

Re: Accident, Did I damage my Raduino

AA7GW
 

The old carpenter’s rule!

AA7GW

On Feb 2, 2018, at 9:44 AM, David Nelson <kc2ipx@...> wrote:

The 8 pin and the 5 pin both have an orange wire. Easy to get confused.  Dave


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 11:40 AM, Michael Hagen <motdog@...> wrote:

I would recommend in building these radios that you change All ground wires to Black and All Power (5 or 12V) to Red.

Reserve these colors for just 2 purposes.

You can use the wires you remove for additions.  Leave the molex pin on them.  I had a lot of spare Brown ones.

I can't stand an Orange wire being B+ (the term for us old Valve guys)!  26 Ga. stranded works great.   I got a bunch of colors at All Electronics.  Molex pins are at Tayda and Mouser.

You don't have to be in such a hurry and blow things up.  Check your wiring several times.  You could even make a connector chart with J numbers and pin numbers with wire color.   Match it up to what is on hfsignals.   It may mean you catch a mistake and save a lot of trouble shooting?

73'3

Mike,  WA6ISP


On 2/2/2018 8:03 AM, Richard Sanders wrote:
You are not alone! I had my bitx40 in pieces on my benchtop and wired the raduino using the orange I/O wire instead of the orange +12v wire...powered on....got nothing on my LCD...turned off...checked wiring...turned on a second time...still nothing...turned off...THEN I saw what I did wrong....it wasn't until I had reflashed the v2 software the I finally figured out why my unit keeps going to the Settings menu....it thinks that I am holding the function button down upon power up! With the button uninstalled I check the power of the orange A3 wire and am getting 0v!! :-( So I'm going to try and remap a different pin for the Function button...if that does not work or if I find that I actually damaged more than the I/O pin...then I'll go the "New Arduino Nano" route! Best of luck to all who are experimenting with the bitx's out there!!

73
Ric
KN4FTT

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...


Re: uBITX Firmware (CEC) 0.30 released (Test version). #ubitx

Philip
 

I am going to try disconnecting the 5 Volts on the USB, as it is power up the display via the USB lead.

Ian thanks for the great firmware

Re: #ubitx-help Strong Audio Tones in and outside audio receive passband #ubitx-help

Jerry Gaffke
 

HFO's being off suggests the 25mhz crystal at the si5351 might be the problem on this one.
Regardless, it is probably a matter of 3'rd harmonic of the 16mhz nano oscillator
beating with the fourth harmonic 1.9985mhz bfo.
Tone should change when you bring your finger close to the very very dinky crystal near the nano's processor.
Will likely change when you bring your finger near the 25mhz ref crystal near the si5351 also.

I'd take a calibrated SW receiver, listen for the 16 and 25mhz oscillators, see if one is off frequency
then maybe try swapping out just that crystal.    Especially if that signal seems somewhat unstable.
A crystal in an entirely different package will probably work  if you keep the wires short.

If the 25mhz reference oscillator were unstable, that would make the ubitx receiver unstable also,
which I assume is not the case.  So best guess is John's 16mhz crystal near the Nano.

What exactly do you mean by "HFOs were off far enough to effect the signal by 8dB."
So, perhaps your BFO as shipped from HFSignals was far enough from the 12mhz crystal ladder filter
that signals were down by 8dB?  Or perhaps you updated your firmware, and lost the HFSignals calibration?

Jerry


On Fri, Feb 2, 2018 at 02:04 pm, Dave Bottom wrote:
John,
 
Thanks for your hard work.  My uBITX has the same exact issue with the "squeal".  Mine did not originally have this issue until a couple of weeks ago (received Dec 22) and now it has gotten worse over that time.
 
It is interesting that the HFOs were off far enough to effect the signal by 8dB. Something to check and maybe this should be part of alignment for each radio?  At least with a spectrum analyzer this won't be too hard.
Yes interested in your code for this test.  
 
So now when I have time I know what to try, although it doesn't sound like much fun changing the Nano.
 
Dave WI6R
 

[uBITX] How to adjust CW sidetone volume? #ubitx

K5DH
 

Is it possible to adjust the CW sidetone volume in the uBITX?  I'm finding that if I have the volume turned up to hear a weak station and I hit the key to respond, my sidetone will be ear-splitting.  Any easy way to fix this? 

73/72,
Dean K5DH
uBITX msn 279

Re: [uBITX] How to adjust CW sidetone volume? #ubitx

Rod Davis
 

Hi Dean,

Just yesterday I changed R250 (the input of the low-pass network for the sidetone) from 1k to 220k, and my sidetone is comfortably low at full volume.

100k probably would have been better, as the sidetone is a bit weak.

I only had 0805 parts, but they fit just fine on 1206 pads. No worries.

Good Luck,

Rod KM6SN




On 02/02/2018 03:23 PM, K5DH wrote:
Is it possible to adjust the CW sidetone volume in the uBITX?  I'm finding that if I have the volume turned up to hear a weak station and I hit the key to respond, my sidetone will be ear-splitting.  Any easy way to fix this? 

73/72,
Dean K5DH
uBITX msn 279

#ubitx Current draw when transmitting? #ubitx

Ghericoan
 

Been using the ubitx to transmit digital modes such as WSPR and PSK31, however the current draw
has me wondering. I've searched around but haven't found a clear answer on what the ubitx should
pulling for amperage on 12 volts. I get in the range of 1.4-1.8 amps, SWR depending; is this correct?
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist

Re: #ubitx Current draw when transmitting? #ubitx

jsullivan10512016@...
 

In all the  writing  on ubitx website, I read that the power supply should supply  up to 3 amps, but elsewhere, on same site, I read that  the 12 volt regulated line should be fused, at  2 to 2.5 amps.    Do you get  same range, of 1.4 to 1.8 amps, when transmitting, as I suspect transmit mode will probably draw more current than in receive mode?    I tend to think that 2 amp fast blow fuse; perhaps 2.5 A at the most, is appropriate.

Re: Diy oscilloscope #parts

Jerry Gaffke
 

My cloud of dots would be a silly way to try and see an RF signal's envelope.
Instead, spend $0.10 on a diode, resistor and a cap or two for an RF probe (or AM detector).
The RC low pass filter should have a corner freq of 100khz instead of 1Hz,
as we will be watching the output with a DSO138 instead of a DVM.

That's probably more what Dexter had in mind when he suggested
watching RF envelopes with the DSO138.

Jerry



On Thu, Feb 1, 2018 at 07:30 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:
Could see Dexter's modulation envelope on sub 1mhz RF as a cloud of dots,
accumulating that cloud over many trigger events. 

Re: #ubitx Current draw when transmitting? #ubitx

Ghericoan
 

When just receiving, the current drawis only 0.16A. When I go to transmit it runs around 1.4-1.8 amps depending on the SWR. I have a 2A fuse inline with the power feeding both the radio and final amplifier. I was just wondering if that current draw on transmit sounds about right, cause it also varies by band, with a significant drop on 30 meters to only 1.01 amps transmit. 

On the other hand, skipping my antenna tuner brings the current draw up to nearly 2.2 amps, but thats most likely from the resulting SWR cause the finals run toasty in that condition. 
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist