Date   
Re: Raduino wont load

Joe
 

Michael

Yes the device will and should run without the display.  Try running a simple example and see if it loads or errors out.
The nano can be replaced. I had a similar failure and it was the nano. It had worked perfect and then failed.
No big deal just takes a bit of time. Basically you cut the top of the nano leaving the pins which you pullout one by one.  I then clean the holes with solderwick.
I put a socket in mine so no issues in the future. Just had to workout the assembly for mounting the raduino.

Joe
VE1BWV


On Sun, Jul 16, 2017, 1:45 PM Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:
hi, my buddy has 3 Bitx40's. One died yesterday in the midst of using it. One is being used for spare parts and its Raduino used in place of a potentially defective Raduino. My goal is to get the third one operational. After updating 2 of his radios and my own with v1.18, I tried to load the questionable Raduino with 1.18. It is just the stand alone board in my hand. It won't load. I get an error message after it compiles and tries to upload. Should the device load without a display attached and out of the radio? I should think so. Next question, if the Nano on the board has failed, can it be replaced onto the board if I can get one somewhere? It does display one red steady led and no other lights. Thanks

Re: BITX echolink node

Ken Hansen
 

It appears anyone can start a chat (I did it, and I'm not an admin), and the chat appears to be copied to the mail list as well.

Once I created a new thread on chat, it was copied to the mail list, and I presume any additions to the chat are also CC:'d to the mail list.

Ken, N2VIP

On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:31 PM, Michael Babineau <mbabineau.ve3wmb@...> wrote:

It looks like by default only an administrator can add a chat to a Groups.io group.  I haven't used them either so I don't really know how 
they work. 

Michael VE3WMB 

Re: BITX echolink node

Steve Greer
 

That is why I already posted an irc link for freenode via webpage access no other software to install.

Re: Raduino wont load

Herb
 

Joe

My first job out of tech school back in the early 70's (wow I suddenly feel old Hi Hi) was depot repair of digital circuit boards. My supervisor showed me a technique to remove dip's by cutting the pins as you describe but then if you turn the board upside down over a small container you can heat the pins and blow them back out the top with a small squeeze bulb. This clears the pin and most of the solder with out risking a plate through or circuit trace from pulling before the solder is completely liquid top and bottom.

Herb
AE5YC

Re: BITX echolink node

Vince Vielhaber
 

Where did you start a chat? The chat here shows no open or closed chats. I also don't even see how to start one.

Vince.

On 07/16/2017 01:15 PM, Ken Hansen wrote:
It appears anyone can start a chat (I did it, and I'm not an admin), and
the chat appears to be copied to the mail list as well.

Once I created a new thread on chat, it was copied to the mail list, and
I presume any additions to the chat are also CC:'d to the mail list.

Ken, N2VIP

On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:31 PM, Michael Babineau
<@ve3wmb <mailto:@ve3wmb>> wrote:

It looks like by default only an administrator can add a chat to a
Groups.io <http://Groups.io> group. I haven't used them either so I
don't really know how
they work.

Michael VE3WMB

Re: BITX echolink node

Roy Appleton
 

Bingo!

Roy
WA0YMH

On Jul 16, 2017 11:49 AM, "Andrew Krause" <andrew.krause@...> wrote:
This entire discuss has strayed into the realm of the asinine and farcical. We're talking about unladen swallow type stuff here. 

Those that want an EchoLink node, go make it happen. Advertise it here. Those opposed, ignore it.

On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 11:16 AM Herb <sailor422@...> wrote:
So Echolink is for people with no internet? Just how do you connect??
It ONLY works on Dos/Windows??? Uh NO it is runs on Linux/Android/Ios/Windows

How is it everyone complaining at the very thought of using some other platform to discuss the BITXxx system can't be bothered to even Google Echolink so as to discuss it intelligently.

--

Andrew Krause
General Class Amateur Radio License: KM4ZJO



Re: On the subject of fake IRF510

Jerry Gaffke
 

I considered moving from the IRF510 to the RD16HHF1.
In a TO-220, better heat dissipation, tab is tied to source pin.
Designed specifically for RF service at Bitx40 power levels.
Only 10x the price of an IRF510.

However:
Pins are swapped around a bit from the IRF510, though that's easy enough to accommodate.
Vds max of 50v, vs 100v for the IRF510.
Threshold voltage might be higher than the IRF510, though probably within range for the Bitx40's RV1.

The low Vds max means it's not a good idea to feed an RD16HHF1 PA  with
more than 12v, whereas the IRF510 does well at 24v.
If I need better than the Bitx40's single IRF510,
will go to a push-pull IRF510 pair like the uBitx or WA2EBY amp.
Beyond that, multiple IRF510's in parallel on each leg of a push-pull amp as Allison is doing.

If swapping in random NFET's for the IRF510, you need to look hard at Vds-max and Vth.
Also the inter-electrode capacitances, this is typically what prevents the use of other switching FET's
meant for use at sub-MHz frequencies, our 2n2219a driver stage simply can't deal with the low impedance load
it sees at RF.  The IRF510 has an unusually low Qg (the total gate charge).

The IRF510 works fine if it has enough heatsink to keep it cool.
Maybe invest a few pennies in TO-220 insulators and heat paste.
Ideal for experimenters, cheap enough to have a dozen of them on hand in case you have a learning experience.

But as this thread has shown, buy from a reputable distributor, avoid those awesome deals on ebay.
Hard to imagine why anybody bothers to counterfeit the IRF510, as it's under $0.50 in quantity. 

Jerry, KE7ER



On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 03:25 pm, Andrew Krause wrote:
Is there an alternative in a TO-220 package? 
 
. . .

Re: Raduino wont load

Michael Hagen
 

Every thing should work just plugged into USB from computer.  You don't need LCD.

I have, and showed pictures here of a much better RaduinoX PCB that has lots of features and the NANO plugs in.

Several members of this group have purchased them as well as the Bare PCB.


Email me if you want info.  You will never have to cut a Nano off again. 

Mike, WA6ISP

motdog@...


On 7/16/2017 9:44 AM, Michael Davis wrote:
hi, my buddy has 3 Bitx40's. One died yesterday in the midst of using it. One is being used for spare parts and its Raduino used in place of a potentially defective Raduino. My goal is to get the third one operational. After updating 2 of his radios and my own with v1.18, I tried to load the questionable Raduino with 1.18. It is just the stand alone board in my hand. It won't load. I get an error message after it compiles and tries to upload. Should the device load without a display attached and out of the radio? I should think so. Next question, if the Nano on the board has failed, can it be replaced onto the board if I can get one somewhere? It does display one red steady led and no other lights. Thanks

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Raduino / LCD display

Keith VE7GDH
 

I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs. The board that the Nano & Si5351 are mounted on just "hangs" on the header coming from the LCD display. Wanting to prevent it from moving around and possibly shorting something out, I put a stand-off between the boards. The mounting holes on the Arduino board don't quite line up, but I managed to use a single stand-off in one corner and it should prevent any movement. Perhaps a future re-design will have the distance between the mounting holes all the same.

I used a cutting disk in a rotary tool to cut the opening for the LCD display in the plastic (PVC) case. I marked the opening on the back and cut "inside the lines" and used a file to get it to the final size. I'm sure the fumes from the PVC was a bit un-healthy while I was cutting, but it did the job.

My question (and no, I didn't try checking with a meter before it was mounted) is do I have to worry about the metalic stand-offs shorting anything between the two boards that shouldn't be connected? I'm assuming this is a non-issue, but thought I would ask before it is powered up, hopefully later today.

A few pics are attached, but not of the Raduino stand-offs. I drilled a few holes for ventilation behind the IRF510 heat sink so it can get a bit of air. Now the wiring starts!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Re: Raduino / LCD display

Ben Kuhn
 

No problems using the standoffs between the boards.  My mounting technique is similar to yours only it didn't come out quite as nice and I had to 3d print a bezel for the screen hihi.

On Jul 16, 2017 1:50 PM, "Keith VE7GDH" <ve7gdh@...> wrote:
I finally got around to drilling some holes and cutting an opening in the case for the LCD display for my (first) BITX40. I was thinking the LCD display would just "bolt" to the front of the case, but the projection on the end required me to use stand-offs. The board that the Nano & Si5351 are mounted on just "hangs" on the header coming from the LCD display. Wanting to prevent it from moving around and possibly shorting something out, I put a stand-off between the boards. The mounting holes on the Arduino board don't quite line up, but I managed to use a single stand-off in one corner and it should prevent any movement. Perhaps a future re-design will have the distance between the mounting holes all the same.

I used a cutting disk in a rotary tool to cut the opening for the LCD display in the plastic (PVC) case. I marked the opening on the back and cut "inside the lines" and used a file to get it to the final size. I'm sure the fumes from the PVC was a bit un-healthy while I was cutting, but it did the job.

My question (and no, I didn't try checking with a meter before it was mounted) is do I have to worry about the metalic stand-offs shorting anything between the two boards that shouldn't be connected? I'm assuming this is a non-issue, but thought I would ask before it is powered up, hopefully later today.

A few pics are attached, but not of the Raduino stand-offs. I drilled a few holes for ventilation behind the IRF510 heat sink so it can get a bit of air. Now the wiring starts!

--
73 Keith VE7GDH





Re: BITX echolink node

bill
 

yes, you are being harsh.  and it isn't helpful. your comments remind me of people who would insist that you aren't a real ham because you got a license after the code requirement was dropped. 

there is a broad range of language, skill, education, and knowledge represented in this group. a lot of people here are getting their first exposure to HF or RF design or programming or all three; some need a lot of help. others, not so much. if folks want to use echolink or chat rooms or meetups to connect, get help or just chat, what's the harm?  

you got your bitx40 running without a lot of help. good work. maybe you could lend your expertise to the mix instead of harshing out those that aren't as skilled as you.

73 de bill K7WXW

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

David S
 

Mike and Jack

Whoo success, the stupid thing is that I hadn't noticed last night that I had only correctly checked one of the display ID's, I thought I had done both and that they were the same, they are not, one is 0x7796 the other is 0x9487, my excuse is that it was late at night here.  They both came from the same vendor about two weeks apart, just shows Chinese vendors inconsistencies, there we go.

It can't be done exactly the way Jack suggested, the colour values are constants, can't be redefined on the fly in the setup module, so because I've got displays with different id's I'll fudge it for now, the same changed works on both display, I just added both as an "or" in the setup routine..


Jack

Take a look at your schematic, at the 3.3v output of the arduino there's a connector tracing through it goes to the 3.3v input of the display. without that connection being "made" the only way the display can get it's 3.3v power is through any protection diodes in the chip that feed to the internal 3.3v supply.  What seems to be happening is when a write is being made to the display there's a drop to the 3.3v present at the display. Fitting a .1" link across the top two pins nearest your callsign feeds the Arduino 3.3v to the display.

Regarding the heat on the 5v regulator for now I'll just reduce the voltage out of the buck regulator, reduce the differential across the 5v regulator.

Thanks both

David G8DJM

Re: BITX echolink node

Dexter N Muir
 

Sane, Andrew.

Echolink does NOT run under Linux. The Linux sort-of-equivalent would be svxlink which, though far more versatile, has a far less human-friendly interface.  Echolink DOES, however, run under Virtualbox (commonly available for most Linux distributions), but that needs a reasonably grunty and up-to-date platform - I doubt a Raspberry Pi could hack it.

The main benefit I could think of for this would be the vocal  communication, leaving eyes and hands largely free to explore possibilities and report results live. This group and 'net mode is text (+ image?) , and that takes eyes and hands (and time) away from the project. That, of course, has its own benefit: time for deeper thought before 'knee-jerk' reaction.

So, like so much in this world, "you pays your money and you takes your choice". If someone gets it rolling (I haven't the resources :( ), I'll be listening/lurking, and if I find I might contribute I will hit the space-bar ....
73, folks!
Dex, ZL2DEX

Re: Raduino / LCD display

Keith VE7GDH
 

I said...

> I put a stand-off between the boards...

Here's a pic of the stand-off. It's on the lower
left corner when viewed from the back. There's also
one showing the holes behind the heat sink. On the
next one, I might get a mica washer for the IRF510.
If I did that, I would cut a hole the size of the
heat sink and have it hang out the back for even
better cooling.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Re: BITX echolink node

Dexter N Muir
 

On Sun, Jul 16, 2017 at 04:58 am, <rwhinric@...> wrote:
APRS was working on a ham messaging system
??? Already there, just use a half-decent client. Xastir is the BEST! And that's been available seemingly since day dot.

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Art Olson
 

Jack

 

So after calculating mydividerconstant and recompiling the voltage still floats from 12.2 down to 2.3-2.7. So for now I just commented it out. However it would be great if I can get it to work correctly. Any thoughts

 

Display voltage from my supply (has a digital readout) 12.0v

Voltage at tp3 – 11.6v

 

art

 

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:06 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Hey, Art...not a problem. The file's only been there a day or two and it will take a while to know it's available. No doubt I'll be posting new versions later on. BTW, my TFT/VFO PCB doesn't have to be used to replace the VFO. It's also a good way to experiment with the Mega 2560 Pro Mini since all of the pins are brought out to header pins, making it easy to attach things for testing. Indeed, you could leave off the support components and use it "stand-alone". I've tried to price it reasonably to encourage you people to experiment with it, to all of our benefit.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

Thanks. Feel a bit foolish for missing the info in the manual

 

Art

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:37 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:

Art:

 

I'm sure the flicker is because the voltage pin is floating. The code is written so the display updates every 2 seconds, but only if there is a "real" swing in the voltage. You can see the code in loop(), around line 1515. The way to get this to work on the display is explained in the B40 Assembly Manual (Rev. 2) that is in the Files section. Look for "Determining the Displayed Voltage". If you don't want the voltage display activated, just comment out the code block that starts at 1515.

 

Al Peter helped me fix the "encoder noise" is was hearing. Turns out it was a flat forehead mistake on my part. In the process of separating the PA power source from the TFT power source, I managed to introduce a ground loop. Once that was determined it was fairly easy to fix.

 

I'm back onto the other features I want to add.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson via Groups.Io <olsonaj6927@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

I must have missed this in the build or setup. The voltage continues to change so it must be floating. I have the tft/vfo connected to the bitx40 power so don't think I have a ground problem. Could you resend the detail about the voltage divider 

"If you connect the display voltage pin to your voltage source, it will flash one or two times at power up, but will only update itself if there is a measurable change in the supply voltage. My guess is that you don't have yours tied to either ground or a voltage divider. As a result, the pin is floating which is read as a new voltage which triggers a screen update.I had mine running several hours last night and it never varied enough to update the field". 

art

 

 

 

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Re: Raduino / LCD display

Keith VE7GDH
 

Ben KE0KKM wrote...

No problems using the standoffs between the boards.
My mounting technique is similar to yours only it
didn't come out quite as nice and I had to 3d
print a bezel for the screen hihi.
Thanks for the confirmation! Some years ago, I didn't
think 3D printers would be very useful. Now that I can
see that they can be made for printing cases, bezels
and pencil holders, I'm thinking of getting one. I
think it will be a nice addition for radio, Raspberry
Pi and Arduino projects.

PS - the opening opening I cut for the LCD display
isn't perfect. It looks OK at arms length, especially
if you squint. If you look really close, there are
some imperfections, but I'm happy enough with it.

--
73 Keith VE7GDH

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack Purdum <econjack@...>
 

did you connect a line to the voltage pin from your supply?

Jack, W8TEE




From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Jack
 
So after calculating mydividerconstant and recompiling the voltage still floats from 12.2 down to 2.3-2.7. So for now I just commented it out. However it would be great if I can get it to work correctly. Any thoughts
 
Display voltage from my supply (has a digital readout) 12.0v
Voltage at tp3 – 11.6v
 
art
 
 
From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:06 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Hey, Art...not a problem. The file's only been there a day or two and it will take a while to know it's available. No doubt I'll be posting new versions later on. BTW, my TFT/VFO PCB doesn't have to be used to replace the VFO. It's also a good way to experiment with the Mega 2560 Pro Mini since all of the pins are brought out to header pins, making it easy to attach things for testing. Indeed, you could leave off the support components and use it "stand-alone". I've tried to price it reasonably to encourage you people to experiment with it, to all of our benefit.
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack
Thanks. Feel a bit foolish for missing the info in the manual
 
Art

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:37 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:
Art:
 
I'm sure the flicker is because the voltage pin is floating. The code is written so the display updates every 2 seconds, but only if there is a "real" swing in the voltage. You can see the code in loop(), around line 1515. The way to get this to work on the display is explained in the B40 Assembly Manual (Rev. 2) that is in the Files section. Look for "Determining the Displayed Voltage". If you don't want the voltage display activated, just comment out the code block that starts at 1515.
 
Al Peter helped me fix the "encoder noise" is was hearing. Turns out it was a flat forehead mistake on my part. In the process of separating the PA power source from the TFT power source, I managed to introduce a ground loop. Once that was determined it was fairly easy to fix.
 
I'm back onto the other features I want to add.
 
Jack, W8TEE
 

From: Art Olson via Groups.Io <olsonaj6927@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD
 
Jack

I must have missed this in the build or setup. The voltage continues to change so it must be floating. I have the tft/vfo connected to the bitx40 power so don't think I have a ground problem. Could you resend the detail about the voltage divider 

"If you connect the display voltage pin to your voltage source, it will flash one or two times at power up, but will only update itself if there is a measurable change in the supply voltage. My guess is that you don't have yours tied to either ground or a voltage divider. As a result, the pin is floating which is read as a new voltage which triggers a screen update.I had mine running several hours last night and it never varied enough to update the field". 

art
 
 
 
Virus-free. www.avast.com


Re: BITX echolink node

Andrew Krause
 

Echolink runs just fine on Android, which is Linux. If you want to run it on a linux desktop, as I am doing now, then apt-get anbox on your machine. It runs an abstraction error that allows the apk to access hardware (like the sound and network). 

Been doing it for months now...

Re: W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

Art Olson
 

Jack

 

Yes the power pins for the tft/vfo are connected to my supply

 

art

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:37 PM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

did you connect a line to the voltage pin from your supply?

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

 

So after calculating mydividerconstant and recompiling the voltage still floats from 12.2 down to 2.3-2.7. So for now I just commented it out. However it would be great if I can get it to work correctly. Any thoughts

 

Display voltage from my supply (has a digital readout) 12.0v

Voltage at tp3 – 11.6v

 

art

 

 

From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Jack Purdum via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:06 AM
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Hey, Art...not a problem. The file's only been there a day or two and it will take a while to know it's available. No doubt I'll be posting new versions later on. BTW, my TFT/VFO PCB doesn't have to be used to replace the VFO. It's also a good way to experiment with the Mega 2560 Pro Mini since all of the pins are brought out to header pins, making it easy to attach things for testing. Indeed, you could leave off the support components and use it "stand-alone". I've tried to price it reasonably to encourage you people to experiment with it, to all of our benefit.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson <olson339@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

Thanks. Feel a bit foolish for missing the info in the manual

 

Art

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 15, 2017, at 10:37 PM, Jack Purdum via Groups.Io <econjack@...> wrote:

Art:

 

I'm sure the flicker is because the voltage pin is floating. The code is written so the display updates every 2 seconds, but only if there is a "real" swing in the voltage. You can see the code in loop(), around line 1515. The way to get this to work on the display is explained in the B40 Assembly Manual (Rev. 2) that is in the Files section. Look for "Determining the Displayed Voltage". If you don't want the voltage display activated, just comment out the code block that starts at 1515.

 

Al Peter helped me fix the "encoder noise" is was hearing. Turns out it was a flat forehead mistake on my part. In the process of separating the PA power source from the TFT power source, I managed to introduce a ground loop. Once that was determined it was fairly easy to fix.

 

I'm back onto the other features I want to add.

 

Jack, W8TEE

 


From: Art Olson via Groups.Io <olsonaj6927@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] W8TEE TFT/ VFO DISPLAY BOARD BOARD

 

Jack

I must have missed this in the build or setup. The voltage continues to change so it must be floating. I have the tft/vfo connected to the bitx40 power so don't think I have a ground problem. Could you resend the detail about the voltage divider 

"If you connect the display voltage pin to your voltage source, it will flash one or two times at power up, but will only update itself if there is a measurable change in the supply voltage. My guess is that you don't have yours tied to either ground or a voltage divider. As a result, the pin is floating which is read as a new voltage which triggers a screen update.I had mine running several hours last night and it never varied enough to update the field". 

art

 

 

 

Virus-free. www.avast.com